! LIBRARY OF CONGRESS, 

Skelf MrA 

UNITED STATES OP AMERICA. 



The Horticulturist's 



RULE-BOOK 

A Compendium of Useful Information 
for 

Fruit-Growers, Truck-Gardeners, Florists 
and Others. 



Completed to the Beginning of the Year 

1892 



By Li H. BAILEY 



SECOND EDITION, REVISED 



NEW YORK 

THE RURAL PUBLISHING COMPANY 

TIMES BUILDING 



By the Same Author. 



I. ANNALS OF HORTICULTURE IN NORTH AMERICA FOR 
THE YEAR 1889. A Witness of Passing Events and a Record of Pro- 
gress. Pp. 204. Illustrated. Cloth, $1 ; paper, 60 cents. 

II. Volume for 1890. Pp. 312. Illustrated. Same Price. 

III. Volume for 1891. Pp. 415. Illustrated. Same Price. 



THE HORTICULTURIST'S RULE-BOOK. A Compendium of Use- 
ful Information for Fruit Growers, Truck Gardeners, Florists and Others. 
New Edition. Pp. 221. Cloth, $1 ; paper, 50 cents. 

THE NURSERY BOOK. A Complete Guide to the Multiplication 
and Pollination of Plants. Pp. 304. 106 Illustrations. Cloth, $1 ; paper, 
50 cents. 

CROSS-BREEDING AND HYBRIDIZING. The Philosophy of the 
Crossing of Plants, Considered with Reference to their Improvement 
under Cultivaticn. With a Bibliography of the Subject. Pp. 48. Paper 
25 cts. 



FIELD-NOTES ON APPLE-CULTURE. Pp. 90; 19 Illustrations. 
Cloth, 75 cents. 

TALKS A-FIELD: ABOUT PLANTS AND THE SCIENCE OF 
PLANTS. Pp. 173 ; 100 Illustrations. Cloth, *i. 

^— ^- ^^ » 
THE RURAL PUBLISHING COMPANY, 
Times Building, New York. 



COPYRIGHTED 1892 ELECTROTYPED AND PRINTED 

BY THE RURAL PUBLISHING CO. BY THE RURAL PUBLISHING CO. 



The author wishes to be advised of any errors 
in this work, and he desires any information which 
will be useful in the preparation of a third edition. 
Ithaca, N. Y., Dec. 31, 1892 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

Insecticides. 7-17 

CHAPTER II. 

Injurious Insects, with Remedies and Preventives. 18- 39 

CHAPTER III. 

Fungicides, for Plant Diseases 40- 44 

CHAPTER IV. 

Plant Diseases, with Preventives and Remedies . . 45- 60 

CHAPTER V. 
Injuries erom Mice. Rabbits, Squirrels and Birds, 

with Preventives and Remedies . 61- 64 

CHAPTER VI. 

Weeds and Moss 65- 67 

1. Weeds in General ' 65 

2. Weeds in Lawns 65 

3. Weeds on Walks 66 

4. Moss on Walks and Lawns 67 

5. Moss on Trees 67 

CHAPTER VII. 

Waxes for Grafting: and for Wounds 68- 70 

1. Common Resin and Beeswax Waxes 68 

2. Alcoholic Waxes . 68 

3. French and Pilch Waxes . 69 

4. Waxed String and Bandage 69 

5. Waxes for Wounds 70 



Contents. 3 * 

CHAPTER Vm. 

Cements, Mortars, Paints and Glues 71- 77 

1. Cement and Mortar 71 

2. Concrete, etc., for Floors, Borders and Walks . . 73 

3. Paints and Protective Compounds 74 

4. Glues 76 

CHAPTER IX. 
Seed-Tables 78-86 

1. Quantity of Seed Required to Sow an Acre ... 7^ 

2. Weight and Size of Garden Seeds 79 

3. Number of Tree-Seeds in a Pound 82 

4. Longevity of Garden Seeds 83 

5. Average Time Required for Garden Seeds to 

Germinate 86 

6. Proper Kinds and Quantities of Seeds for a 

Model English Kitchen-Garden of 1^ acres . . 86 

CHAPTER X. 

Planting-Tables 87- 96 

1. Dates for Sowing or Setting Kitchen-Garden 

Vegetables in Different Latitudes 87 

2. Tender and Hardy Vegetables 90 

3. Usual Distances Apart for Planting Fruits ... 90 

4. Usual Distances Apart for Planting Vegetables . 91 

5. Number of Plants Required to Set an Acre of 

Ground at Given Distances 92 

CHAPTER XI. 

Maturities. Yields and Multiplication 97-103 

1. Time Required for Maturity of Different Garden 

Crops. Reckoned from the Sowing of the Seed. 9? 

2. Time Required, from Setting, for Fruit Plants 

to Bear 9? 

3. Average Profitable Longevity of Fruit Plants 

Under High Culture 98 



4 The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Chapter XL, continued. 

4. Average Yields per Acre of Various Crops .... 98 

5. Tabulai Statement of the Ways in which Plants 

are Propagated 100 

6. Ways of Grafting and Budding 101 

7. Particular Methods by which Various Fruits are 

Multiplied . 102 

8. Stocks Used for Various Fruits 103 

CHAPTER XII. 

Methods of Keeping and Storing Fruits and Vege- 
tables . 104-112 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Standard and Legal Measures and Sizes 113-122 

1. Standard Flower-Pots 113 

2. Legal and Standard Measures 114 

3. Miscellaneous Legal Weights per Bushel .... 116 

4. Miscellaneous Legal Sizes 116 

5. Society and Customary Standards 117 

6. Covent Garden Measures 121 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Tables of Measures and Weights 123-128 

CHAPTER XV. 

Miscellaneous Tables, Figures and Notes 129-140 

1. Quantity of Water Held by Pipes of Various 

Sizes 129 

2. Number of Gallons in Circular Tanks and Wells . ' 129 

3. Number of Gallons in Square-built Tanks .... 130 

4. Thermometer Scales 131 

5. Effects of Wind in Cooling Glass. 131 

6. Per Cent, of Rays of Light Reflected from Glass 

Roofs at Various Angles of Inclination 132 



Contents. 5 

Chapter XV., continued. 

7. Area of Glass Used for Commercial Greenhouse 

Purposes in Various States and Provinces. . . 132 

8. National and Party Flowers 133 

9. Dates at which Various Fruits and Nuts appear 

in Northern Markets 134 

10. What Constitutes Wholesale Quantities 135 

11. Average Prices in France of Various Orchid 

Flowers 136 

12. Weights of Various Varieties of Apples per 

Bushel 136 

13. Various Recipes and Rules 137 

14. Various Figures 139 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Rules 141-149 

1. Loudon's Rules of Horticulture 141 

2. Rules of Nomenclature 141 

3. Rules for Exhibition 143 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Postal Rates and Regulations 150-154 

1. Classes of Domestic Mail Matter and Rates . . . 150 

2. Foreign Postage 152 

3. Unmailable Matter 153 

CHAPTER XVIII. 
Weather Signs and Protection from Frost 155-157 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Collecting and Preserving 158-166 

1. Collecting and Preserving Plants ....... 158 

2. Preserving and Printing of Flowers and Other 

Parts of Plants 159 

3. Perfumery 164 

4. Collecting and Preserving Insects 165 



6 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



CHAPTER XX. 



Elements, Symbols and Analyses 167-184 

1. The Elements and their Symbols, and the Compo- 

sition of Various Substances 167 

2. Analyses 168 

(a) General Analyses of Fruits and Fruit-Plants . 168 

(b) Analyses of Fruits and Garden Products, with 
Reference to their Fertilizing Constituents . . 172 

(c) Analyses of Animal Excrements 176 

(d) Analyses of Various Materials which are Used 
for Fertilizers 179 

(e) Trade Values for 1891 of Fertilizing Ingredi- 
ents in Raw Materials and Chemicals .... 183 

CHAPTER XXI. 

Names, Histories and Statistics 185-199 

1. Vegetables which have Different Names in Eng- 

land and America 185 

2. Names of Vegetables in Various Languages . . . 186 

3. Derivation of the Names of Various Fruits and 

Vegetables 190 

4. Periods of Cultivation and Native Countries of 

Cultivated Plants 192 

5. Statistics of the Vegetable Kingdom 194 

CHAPTER XXII. 
Glossary 200-212 



CHAPTER I. 



Insecticides. 

The results obtained from the use of any insecticide or fungi- 
cide depend upon the operator. Timeliness, thoroughness and per. 
sistence are the watchwords of success. It is easier to keep 
an enemy away than to drive him away. The worst foes are 
often the smallest ones, and the injury is often done before they 
are detected. Be ready and begin early. 

Arsenic. — Known to chemists as arsenious acid or white oxide 
of arsenic. It is considered an unsafe insecticide, as its 
color allows it to be mistaken for other substances ; but in 
its various compounds it forms our best insecticides. From 
1 to 2 grains usually prove fatal to an adult ; 30 grains will 
usually kill a horse, 10 a cow and 1 grain or less is usually 
fatal to a dog. In case of poisoning, while awaiting the 
arrival of a physician, give emetics, and after free vomiting, 
give milk and eggs. Sugar and magnesia in milk is useful. 

Arsenites. — Compounds of arsenic, in which arsenious acid unites 
with some metallic base. The leading arsenites used in 
destroying insects are Paris green and London purple : 
Paris green. — An aceto-arsenite of copper. When pure, it 
contains about 58 per cent, of arsenic, but the commercial 
article usually contains less, often as little as 30 per cent. 
The following may be considered an average analysis: 
Arsenic, 47.68 per cent. ; copper oxide, 27.47 ; sulphuric acid, 
7.16; moisture, 1.35; insoluble residue, 2.34. It is applied 
in either a wet or dry condition, but in any case it must be 
much diluted. For making a dry mixture, plaster, flour, 
air-slaked lime, road dust, or sifted wood-ashes may be used. 
The strength of the mixture required depends upon the 
plants and insects to which it is to be applied. The strongest 
(7) 



8 



The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Arsenites (Paris green), continued. 

mixture now recommended is 1 part of poison to 50 of the 
diluent, but if the mixing is very thoroughly done, 1 part to 
100 or even 200 is sufficient. 

Paris green is practically insoluble in water. When mixed 
with water, the mixture must be kept in a constant state of 
agitation, else the poison will settle and the liquid from the 
bottom of the cask will be so strong as to do serious damage, 
while that from the top will be useless. For potatoes, apple 
trees and most species of shade-trees, 1 pound of poison to 
200 gallons of water is a good mixture. For the stone-fruits, 
1 pound to 300 or even 350 gallons of water is a strong enough 
mixture. Peach trees are very apt to be injured by arsen- 
ites, and for them the mixture should be no stronger than 
1 pound to 300 gallons. In all cases, the liquid should be 
applied with force in a very fine spray. At some seasons of 
the year foliage is more liable to injury than at others. 
London purple. An arsenite of lime, obtained as a by-product 
in the manufacture of aniline dyes. The composition is 
variable. The amount of arsenic varies from 30 to over 50 
per cent. The two following analyses show its composition : 

1. Arsenic. 43.65 per cent.; rose aniline, 12.46; lime, 21.82; 
insoluble residue, 14.57; iron oxide, 1.16; and water, 2.27. 

2. Arsenic, 55.35 per cent. ; lime, 26.23; sulphuric acid, .22; 
carbonic acid, .27 ; moisture, 5.29. It is a finer powder than 
Paris green, and therefore remains longer in suspension in 
water. It is used in the same manner as Paris green, but is 
sometimes found to be more caustic on foliage. This injury 
is due to the presence of much soluble arsenic. London pur- 
ple should not be used on peach trees. 

Combinations or arsenites and fungicides. The arsenites 
may be used in connection with some fungicides, and both 
insects and plant-diseases in this manner may be combated 
at the same time. An ounce of the arsenites may be added 
to ten gallons of Bordeaux mixture for potatoes, and other 
combinations will occur to the operator. The arsenites are 
also sometimes added to soap and other washes. 

The addition of lime to Paris green and London purple 
mixtures greatly lessens injury to foliage, and, as a conse- 
quence, they can be applied several times stronger than ordi- 



Insecticides. 



9 



Arsenites and fungicides, continued. 

narily used when they are combined with the Bordeaux 
mixture. The free lime in the mixture combines with the 
soluble arsenic, which is the material that injures the foliage, 
and the combination is thus made quite harmless. 

London purple and Paris green should rarely be applied 
with the ammoniacal carbonate of copper, as the ammonia in 
the latter dissolves the arsenic, making the combination 
caustic. The addition of sulphate of copper to the arsenites 
also increases injury. 

Bait. — 1. Paris green or London purple, 1 ounce, chopped grass 
or leaves, 8 ounces, and enough syrup to allow the mass to be 
worked into balls. For wire-worm beetles, crickets, katy- 
dids, etc. 

2. Bran 40 pounds, middlings 15 pounds, arsenic 20 pounds, 
cheap syrup 2 gallons. Mix in soft water to a paste. For 
grasshoppers. 

Bisulphide of carbon.— A thin liquid which volatilizes at a very 
low temperature, the vapor being very destructive to animal 
life. It is exceedingly inflammable, and should never be 
used near a lamp or fire. It is used for many root-insects. 
It is poured into a hole which is immediately closed up, caus- 
ing the fumes to permeate the soil in all directions. In loose 
soils it is very destructive to insects. It is also inserted in 
tight receptacles to kill such insects as pea-weevil and 
museum pests. 

Bisulphide of carbon and kerosene. — 1 part of bisulphide of carbon 

mixed with from 5 to 20 parts of kerosene will produce vapor 

sufficient to kill many grain-eating insects. 
Bine vitriol or copperas. — 1 ounce of copperas to a pail of water 

is sometimes effective in destroying root-insects. 
Coal-tar fumes. — Burn rags coated wdth coal-tar attached to a 

pole. Remedy for aphis. 
Carbolic acid and soap mixture.— 1 pint crude carbolic acid, 1 

quart soft soap, 2 gallons hot water. Mix thoroughly. This 

wash is used for borers, and for plant-lice. Apply with a 

cloth or soft broom. 
Carbolic acid and water. — Add 1 part of acid to from 50 to 100 

parts of water. For root-insects. 



io The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 

Carbolized plaster. — Stir 1 pint of crude carbolic acid into 50 
pounds of land-plaster. Or, quick lime may be slaked with 
the acid. The powder is thrown over the tree when the dew 
is on, as a remedy for the curculio. It should be applied 
profusely. 

Glue and arsenites wash. — Common glue, 1 pound, soaked a few 
hours in cold water and then dissolved in % gallon of hot 
water ; add 1 ounce London purple or Paris green, stir well, 
and add hot water till the mixture measures 2 gallons. For 
preventing the attacks of borers. 

Kot water. — Submerge affected plants or branches in water at a 
temperature of about 125°. For aphis. 

Kerosene.— In pure state, kerosene is used as an insecticide upon 
many plants, with various results. It does not appear to 
injure the coleus, rose, grape, peach and pea, but does injure 
the potato, tomato and gooseberry, and other plants. 

Kerosene emulsion. — 1. Soft soap, 1 quart, or hard soap — pref- 
erably whale-oil soap — % pound ; 2 quarts hot water ; 1 pint 
kerosene. Stir until all are permanently mixed, and then 
dilute with water to one-half or one-third strength. A good 
way to make the emulsion permanent is to pump the mix- 
ture back into the receptacle several times. Makes a perma- 
nent emulsion with either hard or soft water. 

2. Hard soap, % pound ; boiling water, 1 gallon ; kerosene, 
2 gallons. Churn or pump the ingredients vigorously 15 or 
20 minutes. Dilute ten times when using. This is the Hub- 
bard or standard emulsion for scale of the orange. 

2 ounces balsam of fir added to the above appears to 
increase its efficiency, and it causes it to adhere to foliage 
better. % pint spirits of turpentine is sometimes added. 

3. Pyrethro-kerosene emulsion. In the place of pure 
kerosene in the above emulsions, use a kerosene decoction 
of pyrethrum, made by filtering 1 gallon of kerosene through 



2% pounds of pyrethrum. Valuable. 

Kerosene and milk emulsion. — Sour milk, 1 gallon ; kerosene oil, 
2 gallons ; warm to a blood heat and mix thoroughly. Dilute 
10 times with water. For scale insects and plant-lice. 

Kerosene and condensed milk emulsion. — Kerosene, 2 gallons, or 
64 per cent, of the entire mixture ; condensed milk, 4 cans of 
% pint, or 123^ per cent. ; water twice the quantity of milk, 
or 25 per cent. 



1 



Insecticides. 



1 1 



Kerosene and water emulsion.— Goff: atomizes kerosene and water 
as follows : To the Woodason atomizing bellows a small cup 
is attached directly in front of the fount for holding the 
liquid to be atomized. From this cup a very slender copper 
tube is passed through the side of the fount where it 
enteres the larger tube that conducts the liquid from the 
fount to the mouth of the bellows. It then curves upward, 
passing through the center of this tube as far as the mouth 
of the bellows, where both come to an end at the same point. 
Kerosene is then placed in the added cup and water in the 
fount. On working the bellows the liquids are atomized 
together. The proportion of kerosene emitted will depend 
upon the relative diameters of the two tubes, but it may also 
be regulated by the relative depths of the liquid in their 
respective founts. A better way would be to use but a single 
fount and to divide this into two parts, one for kerosene and 
the other for water. This would permit the mouth of the 
bellows to be brought nearer to the plant to be atomized. 

Lime spray. — Slake y 2 peck or a peck of lime in a barrel of 
water, straining the lime as it enters the barrel to prevent 
its clogging the pump. Apply in a spray until the tree 
appears as if whitewashed. For rose-chafer. 

London purple. — See Arsenites. 

Lye wash.— 1 pound concentrated lye. or potash 1% pounds, to 
3 gallons water. On an average, 1 bushel of good wood- 
ashes contains about 4 pounds of potash. For scale insects. 

Common home-made lye is often diluted with water and 
applied to apple branches with a brush as a remedy for the 
bark-louse. It is also recommended as a remedy for the cab- 
bage-worcn. being crinkled on the cabbages with a water- 
ing pot. If concentrated lye is used, a pound should be 
diluted with a barrel of water. 

Lye and sulphur wash. — Concentrated lye. 1 pound, or potash, 
\% pounds; sulphur. 1J£ pounds; water. 3 gallons. For 
scale insects. 

Lye and whale-oil soap wash.— (a.) Dissolve 1 pound of concen- 
trated lye in one gallon of water ; add to this \% pounds of 
sulphur and boil until sulphur is dissolved, (h.) Dissolve 
14 pounds of the best whale-oil soap in 54 gallons of water ; 
add solution a to & and boil for a short time. For scale; 



12 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Lye and whale-oil soap wash, continued. 

used as a summer wash when the first brood is hatching. 
Use at 130° Fahrenheit, thoroughly washing the trunks and 
larger branches and spraying the smaller branches and 
twigs. 

Oil and alkali wash. — 1. 154 gallons of whale-oil. 25 pounds sal- 
soda : dissolve the sal-soda in '25 gallons of water and heat it 
to boiling. When boiling pour the whale-oil in. Apply the 
wash when cooled to 130° Fahr. 

2. 1 pound of concentrated lye (American') of SO per cent. : 
or -i-5 of a pound of Greenbank powdered caustic soda, of 98 
per cent. : or 1 pound of solid caustic soda, of 7*3 per cent. : 
or 1>.< pounds of solid caustic soda of 63 per cent. These 
varying proportions are given because the caustic sodas in 
the markets are of different strengths and purity. Which- 
ever one is chosen, add to each amount named }< 2 pound of 
commercial potash and dissolve in 6 gallons of water. 

Both washes arc for scale insects on deciduous trees in 
winter. (Calif ornian.) 

Paramne oil. When plants are infested with lice, wet them at 
intervals of three or four days for about three weeks with 
diluted paraffine in the proportion of a wineglassful to 
watering-can of water. 

Paris green. — See Arsenites. 

Plaster and kerosene, — 2 quarts of plaster or wood-ashes. 1 table- 
spoonful of kerosene. Mix and rub with the hands until the 
oil is well incorporated. Bone-flour may be substituted for 
the plaster. Repellent. 

Potash. — Kainit, 1 ounce to a pint of wafer, applied in a spray, is 
recommended for aphis and various leaf-eating larvae. 
Muriate of potash, applied in the same strength, is as good, 
but is more likely to injure the plants. 

Promoting growth. — Any course that tends to promote vigor will 
be helpful in enabling plants to withstand the attacks of 
plant-lice and other insects. 

Pyrethruin. — A very fine and light brown powder made from the 
flower-heads of species of pyrethruin. It is scarcely injuri- 
ous to man. Three brands are upon the market: 



Insecticides. 



13 



Pyretliruin, continued. 

Persian insect-powder, made from the heads of Pyrethrum 
roseum, a species now cultivated as an ornamental plant. 
The plant is native to the Caucasus region. 

Dalmation insect-powder, made from Pyrethrum cinerarice- 
folium. 

Buhach, made in California from cultivated plants of P. cinera- 
ricefolium. 

When fresh and pure, all these brands appear to be equally 
valuable, but the home-grown product is usually considered 
most reliable. Pyrethrum soon loses its value when exposed 
to the air. It is used in various ways : 

1. In solution in water. 1 ounce to 3 gallons. 

2. Dry, without dilution. 

3. Dry, diluted with flour or any light and fine powder. 
The poison may be used in the proportion of 1 part to from 
6 to 30 of the diluent. 

4. In fumigation. It may be scattered directly upon coals, 
or made into small balls by wetting and molding with the 
hands and then set upon coals. This is a desirable way of 
dealing with mosquitoes and flies. 

5 : In alcohol. (1) Put one part of pyrethrum (buhach) and 
four parts alcohol, by weight, in any tight vessel. Shake 
occasionally, and after eight days filter. Apply with an 
atomizer. Excellent for greenhouse pests. For some plants 
it needs to be diluted a little. (2) Dissolve about 4 ounces 
of powder in 1 gill of alcohol, and add 12 gallons of water. 

6. Decoction. Whole flower-heads are treated to boiling 
water and the liquid is covered to prevent evaporation. 
Boiling the liquid destroys its value. 

7. Water extract. Pour 2 quarts hot water through about 
a half pound of pyrethrum, held in a coarse bag, and then 
add cold water enough to make 2 gallons, and it is well to 
stir in the powder itself. For aphis and cabbage-worms. 
It will keep but a few days. Or the extract can be made as 
follows : Make a paste of 2 tablespoonf uls of pyrethrum by 
adding water. Stir this into 2 gallons of water and apply 
with a fine nozzle. This is recommended for the rose-chafer. 

8. Pyrethro-kerosene emulsion. See under Kerosene emul- 
sion. 



14 The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Pyrethrum (Buliach)., continued. 

Good insect-powder can be made from Pyrethrum roseum, 
and probably also from P. cineraricefoUum, which is grown in 
the home garden. 

Quassia.— Boil 4 ounces of quassia chips 10 minutes in a gallon 
of water ; strain off the chips and add 4 ounces of soft water, 
which should be stirred as it cools. Apply with syringe or 
brush. Ten or fifteen minutes after it has been applied, 
give the plant a good syringing with clean water. For plant- 
lice. 

Resin soap. — Ingredients for one barrel of 50 gallons : 10 pounds 
caustic soda, 98 per cent. ; 10 pounds potash ; 40 pounds tal- 
low ; 40 pounds resin. First. — Dissolve the potash and soda 
in 10 gallons of water. When dissolved, place the whole 
amount in the barrel to be used. Second. — Dissolve the tal- 
low and resin together. When dissolved, add the -same to 
the potash and soda in the barrel, and stir well for five min 
utes or so. Leave standing for about two hours ; then fill " 
up with water, stirring well as every bucket of water goes 
in. Use the following day, 1 pound to the gallon of water. 
Apply warm. For scale on deciduous trees in summer 
(Calif ornian.) 

Resin and fish-oil soap. — 20 pounds of resin, 1 gallon of fish-oil, S 
pounds of caustic soda, and enough water to make 100 gal- 
lons. The caustic soda is first dissolved in about 16 gallons 
of water, after which % of the solution is taken out and the 
resin added to that remaining in the kettle. When all the 
resin is dissolved, the fish-oil is added to it and the whole 
thoroughly stirred, after which the balance of the caustic 
soda solution is added very slowly and boiled for about an 
hour, or until it will readily mix with water. Use an iron 
kettle. For scale insects on orange and olive. (Calif ornian.) 

Resin, soda and tallow soap. — Resin 2 pounds, caustic soda 1 
pound, tallow 1 pound. Mix resin and soda, boil about 30 
minutes and then add tallow. For use, add 2 gallons water 
to a pint. Used in spray for scale. 

Resin and petroleum soap. — Water, 100 gals. ; resin, 17% pounds ; 
soda (60 per cent.), 7 pounds; fish-oil, 3 pounds; petroleum, 
2 pounds. The resin, soda and fish-oil, with 20 gallons water, 
are boiled together for four hours, when the kerosene is 



Insecticides, 



15 



Resin and petroleum soap, continued. 

added and the whole is thoroughly stirred. While hot, place 
in a barrel and add the remaining 80 gallons water, and 
emulsify by thorough stirring. For scale on citrus-trees. 

Salt and lime wash.— 25 pounds of lime (unslaked), 20 pounds of 
sulphur, 15 pounds of salt, 60 gallons of water. To mix the 
above, take 10 pounds of lime, 20 pounds of sulphur, and 20 
gallons of water. Boil until the sulphur is thoroughly dis- 
solved. Take the remainder — 15 pounds of lime and 15 
pounds of salt-slack — and add enough of water to make the 
whole 60 gallons. Strain and spray on the trees when milk- 
warm or somewhat warmer. This can be applied when the 
foliage is off the tree, and will have no injurious effects what- 
ever on the fruit-buds or the tree itself. For scale on decidu- 
ous trees in winter. (Calif ornian.) 

Soap and arsenites. — Yellow soap, 4 pounds, which is dissolved in 
1 gallon of hot water; add 4 ounces of London purple or 
Paris green, mix, and dilute with 50 gallons of hot water. 
For plant-lice. 

Soap and lime wash. — 5 pounds potash, 5 pounds lard stirred in 
5 gallons of boiling water ; 1 peck quicklime slaked in 5 gal- 
lons of boiling water, and mixed while hot with the potash 
and lard mixture. Dilute by adding 2 gallons of boiling 
water for each gallon of the mixture. It will keep indefin- 
itely. For preventing the attacks of borers. 

Soap and soda wash. — To soft soap add a strong solution of com- 
mon washing-soda, until the mixture becomes a thick paint. 

Soap and tobacco. — Dissolve 8 pounds of the best soft soap in 12 
gallons of rain-water, and when cold add 1 gallon of strong 
tobacco liquor. For plant-lice. 

Soap, fish-oil. — Good potash lye, 1 pound; fish-oil, 3 pints; soft 
water, 3 gallons. Dissolve the lye in the water, and when 
brought to a boil, add the oil. Boil about two hours. When 
cold, it can be cut into cakes. For use, put the soap in 
enough hot water to dissolve or cut it, and then 6 to 8 gallons 
water to a pound of soap. For aphis. 

Soda and aloes. — Dissolve 2 pounds of washing-soda and 1 ounce 
of bitter Barbadoes aloes, and when cold add 1 gallon of 
water. Dip the plants into the solution, and lay them on 
their sides for a short time, and the insects will drop off. 



1 6 The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Soda and aloes, continued. 

Syringe the plants with clean, tepid water, and return to the 
house. For plant-lice. 

Soda and resin wash. — Sal-soda, 3 pounds, added to 1 pint of hot 
water; add slowly 4 pounds of resin, and gradually add 2 
pints of hot water. Dilute to 5 gallons. For scale insects ; 
also recommended for curculio. 

Soda and whale-oil soap wash. — Dissolve 25 pounds sal-soda in 25 
gallons water and heat to boiling, at which time add 1% gal- 
lons whale-oil soap. Used as a winter wash for scale. 
Apply at a temperature of about 130° Fahr. 

Soda wash. — Dissolve J£ pound of common washing-soda in a 
pail of water. For scale and borers. 

Sulphide of soda wash (Hilgard's). — Dissolve 30 pounds of whale- 
oil soap in 60 gallons of water, by heating the two together 
thoroughly. Then boil 3 pounds of American concentrated 
lye with 6 pounds of sulphur and 2 gallons of water. When 
thoroughly dissolved it is a dark brown liquid, chemically 
called sulphide of soda. Mix the two — the soap and the sul- 
phide — well, and allow them to boil half an hour. Then add 
about 90 gallons of water to the mixture, and it is ready for 
use. Apply it warm, by means of a spray-pump. Used 
warm, its effect is better and less material is required than 
when cold. For scale on deciduous trees in summer. (Cali- 
fornian.) 

Sulphur. — Fumes of sulphur is destructive to insects, but 
should be carefully used or plants will be injured. For 
greenhouse use, few insecticides are superior. The sulphur 
should be evaporated over an oil-stove, until the room is 
filled with the vapor. The sulphur should never be burned, 
as burning sulphur kills plants. 

Sulphur and snuff. — 1 pound of flowers of sulphur, 1 pound of 
Scotch snuff, 1 pound of quicklime, pound of lamp-black, 
1 pound of soft soap, with sufficient water to make them into 
the consistency of paint. Wash every branch, from the 
grounds upwards, with a common paint-brush before the 
blossom-buds begin to swell. For plant-lice. 

Sulphur and whale-oil soap wash. — Boil 1% gallons of water, add 
% pound of sulphur and boil 15 minutes. To this add a 
pound of whale-oil soap and boil for five minutes. Let stand 



Insecticides. 



17 



Sulphur and whale-oil soap wash, continued. 

for a week. When wanted for use, mix 1 pound of the com- 
pound to a gallon of water, and apply as a spray at a tem- 
perature of 130° Fahrenheit. Used for various burrowing 
larva?, as the gooseberry fruit-worm and the currant borer, 
as a repellent. 
Tobacco. — Used in the following ways : 

1. Tobacco-water, used with whale-oil soap. 

2. Dust, 

3. Fumes. Burn dampened tobacco stems. 

4. Nicotyl. Steep tobacco-stems in water and evaporate 
the water. 

5. Tea. or common decoction. Boil the stems or dust 
thoroughly, and strain. Then add cold water until the decoc- 
tion contains 2 gallons of liquid to 1 pound of tobacco. 

Whale-oil soap.— 1 pound whale-oil soap to 5 gallons of water. 
For mealy bugs and similar insects. It will injure some ten- 
der plants. 

White hellebore. — A light brown powder made from the roots of 
the white hellebore plant {Ycratmm album), one of the lily 
family. It is applied both dry and in water. In the dry 
state, it is usually applied without dilution, although the 
addition of a little flour will render it more adhesive. In 
water, 1 ounce of the poison is mixed with 3 gallons. Helle- 
bore soon loses its strength, and a fresh article should always 
be demanded. It is much less poisonous than the arsenites. 




The advent of spraying marks a new era in 
horticulture. 



CHAPTER II. 



Injurious Insects, with Remedies and Preven 

TIVES. 

Angleworm or Earthworm, The common angleworm often de- 
stroys greenhouse plants by its burrowing. It is some- 
times annoying in gardens also. 
Remedy. — Lime-water applied to the soil. 
Aphides or Plant-Lice, and Bark-Lice. Minute insects of various 
kinds, feeding upon the tender parts of many plants. 

Remedies. — Kerosene emulsion. Kerosene-and-water emul- 
sion. Hot water (about 125°). Coal-tar fumes. Potash. 
Fish-oil soap. Tobacco-water, and fumes. Alcoholic and 
water extracts of pyrethrum. Hughes' fir-tree oil. 
Apple. Apple-Bucculatrix (BucculatrLc pomifoliella, Clemens). 
— A minute yellow or green larva feeding upon the upper 
surface of the leaves, causing the lower surface to turn 
brown. The cocoons are white and slender and are laid side 
by side upon the under sides of twigs, where they are 
conspicuous in winter. 

Remedies. — Burn cocoons in winter or apply strong kero- 
sene emulsion to them. Arsenites for the larvaa in summer. 
Apple-Curculio (Antlwnomus quadrigtohiis, Say). — A soft 
white grub, about half an inch long, living in the fruit. 
Remedy. — Arsenites, as for codlin-moth. 
Apple Flea-Beetle (Graptodera foliacea, Lec). — Beetle, one- 
fifth inch or less long, feeding upon leaves. 
Remedy. — Arsenites . 
Apple-Maggot (Trypeta pomonella, Walsh). — Maggot; infests 
fall apples mostly, occasionally attacks winter fruit. It 
tunnels apples through and through, causing the fruit to fall 
to the earth. 

(18) 



Injurious Insects. 



19 



Apple (Apple-Maggot), continued. 

Remedies. — Immediately destroy all infested fruit, pomace, 
and apple- waste from the house. If the orchard is in sod, 
burn the grass under the trees in fall or spring ; if in culti- 
vation, spade or plow up the soil under the trees in spring. 
Orchards in sandy soil and with a southern exposure are 
most affected. 

Bark-Louse (Mytilaspis pomoimm. Bouche). — Minute insects 
feeding upon the tender shoots. Later in the season the 
insect secretes a scale under which it lives. The old scales 
become conspicuous on the twigs. 
Preventive. — Plant unaffected trees. 

Remedies. — Spray with kerosene emulsion, carbolic-acid 
wash, soda wash, or soap-and-soda wash, when shoots start. 
Wash limbs with soap-suds or lye water. Scrape off lice. 
Blight.— See under Pear in Chapter IV. 

Bud-Moth (Tmetocera ocellana, Fabr.) — A minute insect, 
destroying the flower-buds of apples, pears, plums, etc. 

Remedy. — Arsenites applied when the buds begin to swell, 
and again ten days later. Burn infested leaves in the fall. 
Canker-Worm (Anisopteryx vernata, Peck). — Larva; a "meas- 
uring worm " an inch long, dark and variously striped, feed- 
ing upon the leaves. 

Preventive. — Bands smeared with tar or printer's ink, or 
similar devices, placed about the trunk of the tree to pre- 
vent the wingless females from climbing. 

Remedies. — Arsenites. Jar the worms into straw, and burn 
the straw. 

Codlix-Moth (Carpocapsa pomonella, Linn). — Larva, three- 
fourths inch long, pinkish, feeding in fruit : two broods. 

Remedies. — Arsenites applied just after the blossoms fall 
and again ten days or two weeks later. Swine in the 
orchard. Cloth band about the trunk of the tree, which is 
examined at intervals of seven to nine days for larvge and 
chrysalids. 

Fall Web-W t orm {Hypliantria textor, Harris). — Hairy larvae, 
about an inch long, varying from gray to pale yellow or 
bluish black, feeding upon the leaves of many trees, feeding 
in tents or webs. 

Remedy. — Destroy by burning the webs, or removing them 
and crushing the larvae. 



20 



The Horticulturist } s Rule- Book. 



Apple, continued. 
Flat-headed Borer {Chrysdhothris femorata, Fabr.).— Larva 
about an inch long, flesh-colored, the third segment (■■ head ") 
greatly enlarged ; boring under the bark and sometimes into 
the wood. 

Preventive. — Soap and carbolic-acid washes applied early in 
June and July. Keep trees vigorous. 
Remedies. — Dig out the borers. Encourage woodpeckers. 
Pear Twig-Beetle. — See under Pear. 

Pluh-Curculio (Conotracfielus nenuphar. Herbst). — Beetle: 
punctures the fruit and causes it to become distorted. 

Remedies. — Arsenites. Plant plum trees at intervals 
throughout the orchard to attract the curculio, and fight 
the insects on the plums. See under Plum . 

Root-Louse (Schizoneura lanigera. Hausm.). — A minute insect 
which causes swelling upon the roots of the tree, impairing 
its vitality, or killing it. In another form the insect attacks 
the young branches. It is then conspicuous from its cottony 
covering. The treatment for aphis is useful here. 

Remedy. — Hot water. Scalding hot water may be poured 
on the bare roots of trees standing in the soil, or nursery 
stock may be dipped in water having a temperature of 120° 
to 150°. Kerosene emulsion or tobacco dug in about the tree. 
Infested nursery trees should be dipped in kerosene emul- 
sion. Mulching about trees is said to bring the lice nearer 
the surface. 

Rose-Beetle.— See under Rose. There is practically no 
remedy for the rose-beetle on large orchard trees. Ravages 
can be prevented, to a large extent, by the lime spray and 
the emulsions. 

Round-headed Borers (Saperda Candida and S. cretata, Fabr.). 
— Larva, an inch long when mature ; bores into the tree. It 
remains in the larval state three years. 

Preventive. — Soap and carbolic-acid washes applied early in 
June and July. 

Remedies. — Dig out borers in the fall. Insert a wire into 
the holes. 

Tent-Caterpillars (Clisioeampa Americana and C. sylvatica. 
Harris). — Larva, nearly two inches long, spotted and striped 
with yellow, white and black; feeding upon the leaves. 



In ju rio u s In sect* 



21 



Apple Tent Caterpillars continued. 

Remedies. — Arsenites. as for cod 1 in -moth. Burn out nests 
with torch. Pick off. egg-masses from twigs during winter 
and spring. 

Tussock-moth {Orgyia Uucostiuma. Sm. and Abb. ). — A hand- 
some caterpillar, an inch long, bright yellow with red mark- 
ings, very hairy. Eats the leaves. 
Remedy. — Arsenites. 
Twig-Borer i Ampliicenis (Bostrichus) bicaudatus. Say). — Beetle, 
three-eighths inch long, cylindrical and dark brown, boring 
into twigs of apple, pear and other trees. The beetle enters 
just above a bud. 
Remedy. — Bum the twigs. Catch insects in mating season. 
Twig-Pruners (Elaphidion parallelum. Xewm..and E. villosum, 
Fabr.). — Yellowish white larvae, about a half inch long, 
boring into young twigs, causing them to die and break off. 
Remedy. — Bum the twigs. 
Apricot. Pear Twig-Beetle. See under Pear. 

Plum Cubcuxjo. See under Plum. 
Asparagus. Asparagus-Beetle (Crioceris asparagi, Linn.;. — 
Beetle, less than one-fourth inch in length, yellow, red and 
shining black, "with conspicuous ornamentation, feeding upon 
the tender shoots. Larva feeds upon the leaves and tender 
bark. 

Remedies. — Freshly slaked lime dusted on before the dew 
has disappeared in the morning. Poultry. Draw the hand 
over the stalks from bottom to top. crushing the beetles : 
repeating two or three times during the season will keep 
them in check. 

Aster. Aster-Worm. A small larva boring in the stem of gar- 
den asters about the time they begin to flower, causing the 
heads to droop. 

No remedy is known, but all infested stalks should be 
burned. 

Bean. Be as - - Weevil or Bea^-Blg (Bruchus obsoletus. Say>, — 
Closely resembles the pea-weevil, which see for description 
and remedies. 

Bag-Worm or Basket-Worm [Thyridopteryx t phe merer formis. Haw) . 
— Larva working in singular dependent bags, and feeding 
upon many kinds of trees, both evergreen and deciduous. 



22 The Horticulturists Rule- Book, 



Bag- Worm or Basket-Worm, continued. 

In winter the bags, empty or containing eggs, are conspicu- 
ous, hanging from the branches. 
Remedies . — Hand-picking. Arsenites . 
Bark-Lice. See under Aphides. 
Blackberry. Cane-Borer. See under Raspberry. 
Root Gall-Fly. See under Raspberry. 
Snowy Cricket. See under Raspberry. 
Blister-Beetle (Lytta, two or three species). Soft-shelled, long- 
necked and slim black or gray spry beetles, feeding upon the 
leaves of many trees and garden plants. 
Remedies. — Arsenites. Jarring. 
Cabbage. Cabbage-Worm, or Cabbage-Butterfly (Pieris rapce, 
Linn.). — Larva an inch long, green with yellow and black 
markings, feeding upon the heads ; two broods. 

Remedies. — Pyrethrum mixed with flour, or in water decoc- 
tion. Hot water (temperature from 140° to 160°), applied 
forcibly in a fine spray. Kerosene emulsion. Lye wash. Ar- 
senites : 1 ounce Paris green or London purple to 6 pounds 
flour, applied while the plant is wet ; should not be used after 
the plant begins to head. Salt water sprinkled into the 
head. Pyrethrum, dry or in decoction. 
Green Lettuce-Worm. See under Lettuce. 
Harlequin Cabbage-Bug (Strachia histrionica, Halm). — Bug 
about a half inch long, gaudily colored with orange dots and 
stripes over a blue-black ground, feeding upon cabbage ; two 
to six broods. 

Remedies. — Hand-picking. Place blocks about the patch 
and the bugs will collect under them. In the fall make small 
piles of the rubbish in the patch and burn them at the ap- 
proach of winter. 
Maggot (Anthomyia brassicce, Bouch6). — A minute white mag- 
got, the larva of a small fly, eating into the crown and roots 
of young cabbage and cauliflower and turnip plants. 

Remedies. — There are no remedies specific for the pest; the 
best one can do is to remove the plantation to a new plot, as 
far away as possible, each year. When the plants are in a 
hotbed, maggots can be destroyed by inserting bisulphide 
of carbon into the soil. Puddle the plants when transplant- 
ing in a puddle to which sulphur has been added, and 
sprinkle sulphur about the plants after they are set. Liquid 



Injurious Insects. 



23 



Cabbage, continned. 

manure applied to the plants is said to drive away the 
insects. All infested plants should be burned. 

The u club-roof of cabbage is not due to the maggot, but 
to a fungus (which see) . 

Carrot. Parsley- Worm. See under Parsley. 

Cauliflower. Cauliflower or Cabbage- Worm. See under Cab- 
bage. 

Maggot. See under Cabbage. 
Celery. Green Lettuce- Worm. See under Lettuce. 

Parsley- Worm. See under Parsley. 
Cherry. Canker- Worm. See under Apple. 
Plum-Curculio. See under Plum. 
Rose-Beetle. See under Rose and Apple. 
Slug (Selandria cerasi, Peck). — Larva, one-half inch long, 
blackish and slimy, feeding upon the leaves ; two broods. 

Remedies. — Arsenites, for the second brood (which usually 
appears after the fruit is off), and for the first brood if the 
trees are not bearing. Hellebore in water. Pyrethrum. 
Air-slaked lime. Road-dust. Catch mature insects by jarr- 
ing trees late in the evening or early in the morning. 
Chrysanthemum. Green Lettuce- Worm. See under Lettuce. 
Chrysanthemum Leaf-Miner (Oscinis sp.). — Works upon the 
leaves of the chiwsanthemum. 
Remedy. — Hand-picking. 
Corn. Bud- Worm. See Tomato Fruit- Worm. 
Cornstalk-Borer (Helotropha atra, Get.). — Larva, gray and 
striped, boring into the stalk. 
Remedies. — See Cut- Worm. 
Grain- Aphodius (Aphodius granarius, Linn.). — Beetle, one- 
eighth inch long, shining black, feeding on kernels in the 
ground before they sprout. 

Remedy. — Soak kernels in water, then stir them in a mix- 
ture of Paris green, one part to twenty parts of flour. 
Cranberry. Cranberry- Aphis or Louse. 

Remedy. — Flooding. See also under Aphides. 
Flre-Worm, or Cranberry- Worm (Pliopobotavacciniana, Pack- 
ard) . — Small larva, green, feeding upon the shoots and young 
leaves, drawing them together by silken threads ; two broods. 

Remedies. — Flooding for two or three days. Arsenites. 
Attract the moths to fires at night. 



24 The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Cranberry, continued. 
Cranberry Saw-Fly (Pristiphora identidem, Norton). — Larva, 
less than one-half inch long, greenish, feeding upon the 
leaves ; two broods. 
Remedy. — Flooding. Probably hellebore and arsenites. 
Weevil (Antlwnomous suturalis, Lee). — Beetle, less than one- 
fourth inch long; cuts off the flower-buds. 
Remedy. — Flooding. 
Cucumber. Cucumber or Pickle- Worm (Edioptis nitidalis, 
Cram.) — Larva, about an inch long, yellowish white, tinged 
with green, boring into cucumbers ; two broods. 

Remedies. — Hand-picking at the first appearance of the 
caterpillars. Destroy infested fruits. 
Melon-Worm. — See under Melon. 

Spotted Cucumber-Beetle (Diabrotica 12-punctata, Oliv.).— 
Beetle, yellowish and black-spotted, about one-fourth inch 
long, feeding upon the leaves and fruit. Sometimes attacks 
fruit-trees, and the larva may injure roots of corn. 

Remedy. — Same as for Striped Cucumber-Beetle. 
Striped Cucumber-Beetle (Diabrotica vittata,~Fabv.) . — Beetle^ 
one-fourth inch long, yellow with black stripes, feeding on 
leaves. Larva, one-eighth inch long and size of a pin, feed- 
ing on roots ; two broods . 

Preventive. — Cheap boxes covered with thin muslin placed 
over young plants ; or screens of mosquito -netting. 

Remedies. — Arsenites in flour. Ashes, lime, plaster or fine 
road-dust sprinkled on the plants every two or three days 
when they are wet. Air-slaked lime. Plaster and kerosene. 
Tobacco powder, applied liberally. Apply remedies when 
dew is on, and see that it strikes the under side of the leaves. 
Currant. Borer (JEgeria tipuliformis, Linn.). — A whitish larva, 
boring in the canes of currants, and sometimes of goose- 
berries. The larva remains in the cane over winter. 

Remedy. — In fall and early spring cut and burn all affected 
canes. These canes are distinguished before cutting by lack 
of vigor, and by limberness. 
Currant-Worm, or Currant and Gooseberry Saw-Fly (Ne- 
matus ventricosus, Klug). — Larva, about three-fourths inch 
long, yellow green, feeding upon the leaves of red and white 
varieties ; two to four broods. 

Remedies. — White hellebore, applied early. Arsenites for 
the early brood- 



Injurious Insects. 



25 



Currant, continued. 

Currant Measuring or Span-Worm (Eufitchia (Abraxis) 
ribearia, Fitch..). — Larva somewhat over an inch, long, with 
stripes and dotted with yellow or black, feeding upon the 
leaves. 

Remedies. — Hellebore, applied stronger than for currant 
worm. Arsenites, if the bushes are not bearing. Hand 
picking. 

Four-striped Plant-Bug (Pcecilocapsus lineatus, Fabr.). — A 
bright yellow black-striped bug about one-third of an inch 
long, puncturing the young leaves and shoots of many plants. 

Remedy.— Jarring early in the morning. Kerosene emul- 
sion when the bugs are young. 

Green Leap-Hopper (Empoa albopicta, Forbes). — Small insect 
working upon the under surface of currant and gooseberry 
leaves. Also upon the apple. 
Remedy. — Pyre thrum. Kerosene emulsion. 

Green Leap-Hopper (Typlocyba albopicta, Forbes). — A pale 
green insect about one-tenth inch long, feeding upon leaves 
of currants and gooseberries, also upon the apple, causing 
white spots to appear upon the upper surfaces. 

Remedies. — Pyrethrum, applied before the insects are fully 
grown. Tobacco dust. 
Cut-Worm. Various species of Agrotis and related genera. Soft 
brown or gray worms, of various kinds, feeding upon the 
roots, crown, or even the tops of plants. 

Preventives and Remedies. — Encircle the stem of the plant 
with heavy paper or tin. Arsenites sprinkled upon small 
bunches of fresh grass or clover, which are scattered at 
short intervals about the garden towards evening. They 
will often collect under boards or blocks. Arsenites mixed 
with shorts, and placed about the plants. Make two or 
three deep holes by the side of the plant with a pointed stick ; 
the worms will fall in and cannot escape.. Dig them out. 
Plow infested land in fall to give birds a chance to find the 
worms. Kainit or muriate of potash applied liberally as a 
fertilizer has been advised. 
Cut-Worm, Climbing. Several species of Agrotis. The worms 
climb small trees of various kinds at night and eat out 
the buds. 



26 The Horticulturist s Rule- Book. 



Cut-worm, Climbing:, continued. 

Preventive. — Place strips of tin or bands of tar about the 
trunk. Dig a small circular hole, with perpendicular sides, 
about the base of the tree. 
Remedies. — Arsenites. Hellebore. 

Dahlia. Four-striped Plant-Buo. — See under Currant. 
Green Lettuce-Worm. — See under Lettuce. 

Deutzia. Four-Striped Plant-Bug. — See under Currant. 

Egg-Plant. Potato-Beetle. — See under Potato. 

Elm. Elm Flea-Beetle (Oalleruca xantho-melcena, Schr.). — A 
small beetle, imported from Europe, which causes great 
devastation in some of the eastern states by eating the 
green matter from elm-leaves, causing the trees to appear as 
if scorched. 
Remedy. — Arsenites with kerosene emulsion. 
Canker- Worm. — See under Apple. 
Willow- Worm. — See under Willow. 

Endive. Green Lettuce-Worm. — See under Lettuce. 

Flea-Beetle (Phyllotreta vittata, Fabr. ; Haltica striolata, Harris). 
— A minute black-spotted beetle, feeding upon many plants, 
as turnip, cabbage, radish, mustard, potato, strawberry 
and stocks. It jumps upon being disturbed. Closely related 
species attack various plants. Very destructive to plants 
which are just appearing above the surface. 

Remedies. — There are no reliable preventives or remedies. 
Arsenites, applied dry while the dew is on, are good. Land 
plaster, lime, ashes, and tobacco-dust, applied in the same 
manner, are more or less effective. Tobacco decoction used 
very liberally. Wood-ashes applied liberally. Sometimes 
ashes injure the plants. Kerosene emulsion thrown with 
great force against the plants. Calomel, mixed with flour 
or ashes. The same remedies apply to other flea-beetles. 

Gipsy-Moth (Ocneria dispar, Linn.) — Larva, nearly two 'inches 
long when mature, very hairy, nearly black, with a yellow 
stripe along back and sides. Devour many kinds of foliage. 
Confined to eastern Massachusetts, where it was introduced 
from Europe about 1869. It is feared that it will become a 
serious pest. 

Remedy,— Spray with arsenites as soon as the caterpillars 
hatch in the spring. 



Injurious Insects. 



27 



Gooseberry. Currant-Borer. — See under Currant. 
Currant Measuring or Span-Worm. — See under Currant. 
Four-striped Plant-Bug. — See under Currant. 
Gooseberry or Currant- Worm. — See under Currant. 
Gooseberry Fruit- Worm (Dakruma convolutella, Hubn.). — 
Larva, about three-fourths inch long, greenish or yellowish, 
feeding in the berry, causing it to ripen prematurely. 

Preventive. — Spray just before eggs are laid with the sulphur 
and whale-oil soap wash. 

Remedies. — Destroy affected berries. Clean cultivation. 
Poultry. 

Green Leaf-Hopper. — See under Currant. 
Grape. Apple-tree Borer.— See under Apple. 
Grape-berry Worm (Eudemis botrana, Schiff,)- — Larva, about 
one-fourth inch long, ^feeding in the berry, often securing 
three or four together in a web ; two broods. 

Remedy. — Burn the affected berries before the larva 
escapes. 

Grape-Curculio (Craponius incequalis, Say.). — Larva small, 
black with a grayish tint. Infests the grape in June and 
July, causing a little black hole in the skin and a discolora- 
tion of the berry immediately around it. 

Remedies. — Jarring and removing berries. The beetle may 
be jarred down on sheets, as with the plum-curculio. Bag- 
ging the clusters. 

Grape-seed Worm (Isosomavitis, Saunders). — A minute grub, 
living in the seed of the grape and causing it to become dis- 
torted. The injured grapes shrivel. 
Remedy. — Burn the affected fruit. 

Grape-Slug or Saw-Fly (Selandria vitis, Harris). — Larva, 
about one-half inch long, yellowish green with black points, 
feeding upon the leaves ; two broods. 
Re m ed ies . — Arsenates . Hellebore . 

Grape-vine Fidia (Fidia viticida). — Beetlej resembles the 
rose-bug, somewhat shorter and broader. It appears during 
June and July, riddling the leaves. 

Remedies. — Jarring the trees ; the least jar is sufficient. 
Poultry. 

Grape-vine Flea-Beetle (Graptodera chalyhea, Illig.). — Beetle, 
about one-fourth inch long, feeding upon the buds and ten- 
der shoots in early spring. 



28 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Grape (Grape-vine Flea-Beetle), continued. 

Remedies. — Arsenites. The beetle can be caught by jarring 
on cold mornings. 
Grape-vine Root-Borer (Mgeria polistiformis, Harris). — 
Larva, one and one-half inch or less long, working in the 
roots. 

Preventive. — Mounding as for the peach-tree borer. 
Remedy.— Dig out the borers. Apply scalding water to the 
roots. 

Grape-vine Sphinx (Darapsa 7nyron, Cramer). — A large larva* 
two inches long when mature, green with yellow spots and 
stripes, bearing a horn at the posterior extremity, feeding 
upon the leaves, and nipping off the young clusters of 
grapes ; two broods. 
Remedy. —Hand-picking. 

There are other large sphinx caterpillars which feed upon 
the foliage of the vine and which are readily kept in check 
by hand-picking. 
Phylloxera (Phylloxera vastatrix, Planchon). — A minute insec, 
preying upon the roots, and in one form causing galls upon 
the leaves. 

Preventive.— As a rule, this insect is not destructive to 
American species of vines. Grafting upon resistant stocks 
is the most reliable method of dealing with the insect yet 
known. This precaution is undertaken to a large extent 
in European countries, as the European vine is particularly 
subject to attack. 

Remedies.— There is no reliable remedy known. Burn 
affected leaves. Bisulphide of carbon poured in holes in the 
ground, which are quickly filled, is sometimes effecti'v 
Carbolic acid and water used in the same way is also recom- 
mended. Flood the vineyard. 

Rose-Beetle. — See under Rose. 

Snowy Cricket. — See under Raspberry. 

Thrip or Leaf-Hopper (Erythroneura vitis, Harris). — In vari- 
ous stages, one-tenth inch or less long ; feeding on leaves, 
causing them to appear scorched. 

Remedies. — Sticky fly-paper secured to a stick and carried 
over the vines, while another person scares up the insects. 
Attract to lights at ni~ht. Kerosene emulsion. In houses, 



Injurious bisects. 



29 



Grape (Thrip or Leaf -Hopper) , continued. 

tobacco smoke, pyrethrum poured upon coals held under the 
vines, syringing with tobacco-water or soap-suds. Fumiga- 
tion in the field should be done before the insects develop 
wings — late in July or in early August (in the north) . Rake 
ground clean about vines late in fall in order to expose 
insects to the weather. It has been found in California that 
thrips can be greatly lessened by feeding off the leaves with 
sheep, soon after the grapes are picked. 

Grasshoppers.— If these pests become serious, they may be kept 
in check by the following means : Place a tablespoonf ul of 
poisonous bait by the side of each tree or vine. The bait is 
made of 40 pounds bran, 15 pounds middlings, 2 gallons 
syrup, 20 pounds arsenic ; mix with soft water. Costs 25 to 
75 cents per acre. Or Paris green spray may be used. 

Hollyhock. Bug (Orthotylus ddicatus, UhL) . — A small green bug, 
attacking the hollyhock with great damage. 

Remedies.— Kerosene emulsion. Pyrethro-kerosene emul- 
sion. 

Lawns, Ants (Formica sp.). — Insects burrowing in the ground, 
forming ••ant-hills." 

Remedy. — A tablespoonf ul of bisulphide of carbon poured 
into holes six inches deep and a foot apart, the holes being 
immediately filled up. / 

Leaf-Crumpler (Phycis indigenella. Zeller). — Larva, brown, wrink- 
led, found on the inside of leaves, which it brings together in 
masses and attaches them to each other and to the twigs by 
means of silken threads. The next season young worms 
appear from the mass and feed on the new crop of leaves. 
Remedy. — Gather the masses and burn them. 

Lettnce. Aphis or G keen-Fly. — A plant-louse on forced lettuce 
Preventive. — Tobacco dust applied on the soil and plants as 
soon as the aphis makes its appearance, or even before. 
Renew every two or three weeks if necessary. Fumigate 
with tobacco. 

Green Lettuce-Worm (Plusia brassiccr. Riley). — Larva, some- 
' what over an inch long, pale green, with stripes of a lighter 
color, feeding upon the leaves of many plants, as cabbage, 
celery and endive. 

Remedy. — Pyrethrum diluted with not more than three 
times its bulk of flour. Kerosene emulsion. Hot water. 



3o 



The Horticulturist' e Rule-Book. 



Lice. — See Aphides. 

May-Beetle or May-Bug (Lachnostema fusca, FrohL) — A large and 
familiar brown beetle, feeding upon the leaves of many 
kinds of trees. The common white grub is the larval state. 
It often does great damage to sod and to strawberries. 

Remedies.— For beetle, use arsenites, orajar them early in 
the morning. For grubs, plow up the lawn so as to expose 
them to field-birds and poultry, or turn in hogs. 
Mealy Bug (Dactylopius adonidum y .Linn.). — A white scale-like 
insect attacking gre< : House plants. 

Remedies. — AlcohoLa decoction of pyrethrum. Knock them 
off with a hose. Whale-oil soap. Carbolic acid and soap. 
Removing insects with brush on tender plants. Whiskey, 
applied with a brush. Fish-brine. 
Melon. Melon-Worm (Eudioptis hyalinata, Linn.) .—Larva, some 
over an inch long, yellowish green and slightly hairy, feed- 
ing on melon-leaves, and eating holes into melons, cucum- 
bers and squashes ; two or more broods. 
Remedy.— Hellebore. 
Spotted Cucumber-Beetle. — See under Cucumber. 
Striped Cucumber-Beetle. — See under Cucumber. 
Squash-vine Root-Borer. — See under Squash. 
Mite (Tetranychus himaculatus, Harvey). — Much like red-spider in 
size and shape, but light-colored, with two dark spots behind. 
Feeds upon the under side of the leaves of many greenhouse 
plants. A very serious pest. Evidently known also as ' ' Ver- 
bena Mite." 
Remedy. — Hughes' fir-tree oil. 
Mushroom. Mushroom-Fly. — The larva bores through the stems 
of the mushrooms before they are full-grown. 

Preventive. — Keep the beds cool so that the fly cannot 
develop. When the fly is present, growing mushrooms in 
warm weather is usually abandoned. 
Onion. Maggot (Anthomyia c^parum, Meigen). — Nearly indis- 
tinguishable from the cabbage-maggot, which see. 
Orange. Katydid (Microcentrum retinervis, Burm.). — A large 
green grasshopper-like insect, feeding upon the foliage. It 
is largely kept in check in some localities by a parasitic 
chalcid fly. 

Remedy. — Collect the eggs, which are conspicuous on the 
borders of the leaves. 



Injurious Insects. 



3i 



Orange, continued. 

Leaf-Notcher (Artipus Floridanus, Horn). — Beetle, one-fourth 
inch long, greenish blue or copper-colored, eating the edges 
of the leaves. 
Remedy. — Jarring. 
Mite (Tetranychus 6-maculatus) . 

Remedies. — Kerosene emulsion. Sulphur. Practice clean 
culture. 

Scale. — Many species, preying upon the leaves and shoots. 
Remedies. — Kerosene emulsion applied with a brush or in 
spray, just before the trees bloom, and at intervals of two 
or three weeks as occasion may require. Lye wash. Lye- 
and-sulphur wash. Pyrethrum decoction. Resin and fish- 
oil soap. When young the scale is more easily destroyed. 
Parsley. Parsley-Worm (Papilio Asterias, Cramer). — Larva, 
inch and a half long, light yellow or greenish yellow with 
lines and spots ; feeding upon leaves of parsley, celery, car- 
rot, etc. When the worm is disturbed, it ejects two yellow 
horns with an offensive odor, from the anterior end. 

Remedies. — Hand-picking. Poultry are said to eat them 
sometimes. 

Parsnip. Parsley- Worm. — See under Parsley. 
Parsnip Web-Worm (Depressaria heracliana, De Geer) . — Larva, 
about a half inch long, feeding in the flower-cluster and caus- 
ing it to become contorted. 

Remedies. — Arsenites, applied as soon as the young worms 
appear, and before the cluster becomes distorted. The 
worms are easily disturbed, and hand-picking is often ad- 
visable. Burn the distorted umbels. 
Pea. Pea- Weevil or Pea-Bug (Bruchus pisi, Linn.).— A small 
brown-black beetle, living in peas over winter. The beetle 
escapes in fall and spring and lays its eggs in young pea- 
pods, and the grubs live in the growing peas. 

Preventive. — It is said that coal-ashes or sand saturated 
with phenyl and sown with the peas will prevent attack. 

Remedies. — As soon as the mature peas are picked, and 
while the grubs are only partly grown, subject the peas to 
a temperature of 145° for an hour. The seed will not be 
injured. The ripe peas may also be confined in some tight 
receptacle, and a little bisulphide of carbon added. 



32 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Peach. Aphis (Aphis persicce-niger, Smith). — A small black or 
brown plant-louse which attacks the tops and roots of peach 
trees. When upon the roots it is a very serious enemy, 
stunting the tree and perhaps killing it. Thrives in sandy 
lands. 

Remedies. — Kerosene emulsion. Tobacco decoction. To- 
bacco hoed in about the tree will destroy the root-colonies. 
Apple-tree Borer. — See under Apple. 
Flat-headed Borer. — See under Apple. 

Katydid. — This insect is often troublesome to the peach in the 
southern states in early spring, eating the leaves and gird- 
ling young stems. 
Remedy. — Poisoned baits placed about the tree. 

Peach-twig Moth (Anarsialineatella, Zeller). — The larva of a 
moth, a fourth inch long, boring in the ends of the shoots ; it 
sometimes attacks the apple and strawberry-roots. 
Remedy. — Burn the infested twigs. 

Peach-Louse or Aphis (Myzus persicce, Sulzer). — A small in- 
sect feeding upon the young leaves, causing them to curl 
and die. 

Remedies. — Kerosene emulsion. Soap-and-soda wash. Soap- 
water. Soap and arsenites. 
Plum-Curculio. — See under Plum. 

Peach-tree Borer (Mgeria exitiosa, Say). — A whitish larva, 
about three-fourths inch long when mature, boring into the 
the crown and upper roots of the peach, causing gum to 
exude. 

Preventive. — Make a mound about the tree in early sum- 
mer, a foot high, and remove it in September ; the moth then 
lays her eggs about the top of the mound, and the tender 
larval are killed by exposure to the weather. A coat of 
asbestos roofing applied about the base of the tree is recom- 
mended as a preventive. Apply washes as for apple-tree 
borers. Paint the crown of the tree with ordinary paint, to 
which Paris green has been added. All preventives are 
unsatisfactory however, and the only safety is — 
Remedy. — Dig out the borers in late fall and early spring. 
Red-legged Flea-Beetle (Haltica rufipes). — A flea-beetle 
feeding on the leaves of peach trees, often in great num- 
bers. 



Injurious Insects. 



33 



Peach (Red-legged Flea-Beetle), continued. 

Remedies. — The insects fall at once upon being jarred, and 
sheets saturated with kerosene may be used, upon which to 
catch them. Spray with Paris green. 
Root-Knot. — See Root-knot, under R. 
Rose-Beetle. — See under Rose and Apple. 
Pear. Apple-tree Borer. — See under Apple. 
Bud-Moth. — See under Apple. 
Codlin-Moth. — See under Apple. 
Flat-headed Borer. — See under Apple. 

Midge (Diplosis pyrivora) . — A minute fly ; punctures the upper 
part of the pear and lays eggs in it. These hatch into minute 
grubs which distort and discolor the fruit. It is causing 
some apprehension in eastern New York and eastward. 
Introduced about ten years ago from France. 
Remedy. — Destroy the infested pears. 

Pear-leaf Blister {Phytoptus pyri, Scheuten). — A minute 
mite which causes black blisters to appear upon the leaves. 
The mites collect under the bud-scales in winter. 

Remedy — Burn the twigs in winter or spray with kerosene 
emulsion. 

Pear-tree Borer (Myeria pyri, Harris). — A small whitish 
larva, feeding under the bark of the pear tree. 

Remcdcj — Same as for round-headed apple-tree borer. 
Pear-twig Beetle (Xylehorus pyri, Peck). — Brownish or black 
beetle, one-tenth inch long, boring in twigs, producing effect 
much like pear-blight, and hence often known as "pear- 
blight beetle." It escapes from a minute perforation at 
base of bud ; probably two broods. 

Remedy.— Burn twigs before the beetle escapes. 
Pstlla (Psylla pyri, Schmidb.). — A curious aphis-like insect 
infesting the twigs of pear trees when the fruit is setting. 
They are covered with a waxy material, and in the exuding 
sap a fungus often develops, giving the twigs a sooty appear- 
ance. Often does great damage. 

Remedies.— Difficult to combat. Spray before the flowers 
appear with some strong soap or lye wash, or kerosene 
emulsion. 

Rose-Beetle.— See under Rose and Apple. 
Rouxd-headed Borer. — See under Apple. 
Slug.— See under Cherry. 



34 



The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Pear, continued. 

Twig-Girdler (Oncideres cingulatus, Say). — A brownish gray 
beetle, about one-half inch long, which girdles twigs in 
August and September. The female lays eggs above the 
girdle. The twigs soon fall. 

Remedy.— Burn the twigs, either cutting them off or gather- 
ing them when they fall. 
Twig-Pruner.— See under Apple. 
Persimmon. Twig-Girdler. — See under Pear. 
Pineapple. Katydid (Acanthacara similis). — A large katydid 
which attacks, among other plants, the leaves of the pine- 
apple. 

Remedies. — Arsenites, before the plants are mature. 
Plant-Lice. — See Aphides. 
Plum. Bud-Moth. — See under Apple. 
Canker- Worm. — See under Apple. 

Curculio (Conotrachelus nenuphar, Herbst.). — Larva, a whit- 
ish grub, feeding in the fruit. 

Remedies. — Arsenites ; apply as soon as the calyx falls 
and repeat two or three times at intervals of about ten days. 
Plaster and carbolic-acid mixture. Jarring the beetles on 
sheets very early in the morning, beginning when trees are 
in flower and continuing from four to six weeks. Catching 
beetles under chips or blocks about base of tree, the insects 
being taken very early in the morning. 

Flat-headed Borer. — See under Apple. 

Pear-twig Beetle. — See under Pear. 

Plum-Gouger (Coccotorus scutellaris, Lee). — A small larva, 
feeding upon the kernel of the plum. The beetle bores a 
round hole in the plum, instead of making a crescent mark 
like the curculio. 

Remedy. — Same as for curculio. 

Twig-Pruner. — See under Apple. 

Slug.— See under Cherry. 

Poplar. Cottonwood Leaf-Beetle (Lina scripta, Riley). — A 
striped beetle feeding on the leaves and shoots of poplars 
and willows. 

Remedy. — Arsenites. 
Willow-Worm.- -^ee under Willow, 



Injurious Insects. 



35 



Potato. Colorado Potato-Beetle (Doryphora decemlineata^ 
Say). — Beetle and larva feed upon the leaves. 
Remedies. — Arsenites. Hand-picking the beetle. 
Mole-Cricket (Gryllotolpa borealis, Burm.). — Mature insect 
curiously formed, whitish, feeding on tubers in low and 
mucky ground. 
Preventive,— Plant potatoes on upland. 
Stalk- Weevil (Trichobaris trinotata, Say).— A grub boring in 
the stalk of the potato near or just below the ground. Seri- 
ous at the west and in some places eastward. 
Remedy. — Burn all infested vines. 

Privet or Prim. Privet Web-Worm (Margarodes quadristig 
malis, Gn.) . — Small larva feeding in webs on the young shoots 
of the privet, appearing early in the season ; two to four 
broods. 

Remedies. — Trim the hedge as soon as the worms appear 
and burn the trimmings. Attract the moths at night by 
lights. Probably the arsenites will prove useful. 
Quince. Round-headed Borers. — See under Apples. 
Slug. — See under Cherry. 

Radish. Maggot (Anthomyia raphani, Harris). — Indistinguish- 
able from the cabbage-maggot, which see. Sowing copperas 
upon the soil before planting is sometimes adopted as a pre- 
ventive of attack. 

Raspberry. Cane-Corer (Oberea bimaculata, Oliv.). — Beetle, 
black, small and slim; making two girdles about an inch 
apart near the tip of the cane, in June, and laying an egg 
just above the lower girdle ; the larva, attaining the length 
of nearly an inch, bores down the cane. Also in the black- 
berry. 

Remedy. — As soon as the tip of the cane wilts, cut it off at 
the lower girdle and burn it. 
Raspberry Root-Borer (Bembecia marginata, Harris).— Larva 
about one inch long, boring in the roots, and the lower parts 
of the cane, remaining in the root over winter. 
Remedy. — Dig out the borers. 
Raspberry Saw-Fly (Selandria rubi, Harris). — Larva about 
three-fourths inch long, green, feeding upon the leaves. 
Remedy. — Hellebore. Arsenites, after fruiting. 



36 The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Raspberry, continued. 
Root Gall-Fly (Rhodites i-adicum, Sacken). — A small larva 
which produces galls, sometimes attaining two inches in 
diameter, on the roots of the raspberry, blackberry and rose, 
causing the bush to appear sickly, and eventually killing it. 

Remedy. — There is no remedy except to destroy the galls; 
if plants are badly affected they must be dug up, and burned. 
Sxowy or Tree-Cricket (CEcanthus niveus, Serv.).— Small and 
whitish cricket-like insect, puncturing canes for two or three 
inches, and depositing eggs in the punctures. 

Remedy. — Burn infested canes in winter or very early 
spring. 

Red-Spider (Tetranychus telarius, Linn.). — A small red mite infest- 
ing many plants, both in the greenhouse and out-of-doors. 
It flourishes in dry atmospheres, and on the under side of 
the leaves. 

Remedies. — Persistent syringing with water will destroy 
them, if the spray is applied to the under surface. Fumes 
of sulphur. Sulphide-of-soda wash. 
Rhubarb. Rhubarb-Curculio (Lixus concavus, Say). — A grub 
three-fourths inch long boring into the crown and roots. It 
also attacks wild docks. 

Remedy. — Burn all infested plants, and keep down the 
docks. 

Root-Knot (Heterodera radicicola) . — A disease characterized by the 
knotting and contortion of the roots of the peach, orange and 
many other plants. It is usually most destructive on the 
peach. It is caused by a nematode, or true worm. Gulf 
States. Attacks green-house plants. 

Preventives. — Plant non-infested plants in fresh soil; bud 
into healthy stocks. Fertilize highly, particularly with 
potassic fertilizers. Set the trees eight or ten inches deep 
in high and dry soils. Infested small trees may be reme- 
died, in part at least, by transplanting them into highly 
manured holes which have been prepared contiguous to them. 

Rose. Root Gall-Flt. — See under Raspberry. 
Mealy Bug. — On roses, a gill of kerosene-oil to a gallon of 
water is a good remedy. Syringe the plants in the morning, 
and two hours later syringe again with clean water. See 
also under Mealy Bug. 



Injurious Insects. 



37 



Rose, continued. 

Rose-Beetle, Rose-Chafer or 4 'Rose-Bug" (Macrodactylus 
subspinosus, Fabr.). — Beetle three-fourths inch long, light 
brown, feeding upon the leaves, blossoms and fruit. 

Remedies. — Hand-picking. Knocking off on sheet early in 
morning. Bagging. Pyrethrum. Kerosene emulsion. Py- 
rethro-kerosene emulsion. Eau celeste. It is said to prefer 
Clinton grapes, spireas, rose-bushes and magnolias, and it has 
been suggested that these plants be used as a decoy. Open 
vials of bisulphide of carbon hung in bushes and vines are 
recommended by some. Sludge-oil soap, a manufactured 
material. Spraying with dilute lime whitewash. Hot water, 
at a temperature of 125° to 130° Fahr. To prevent the insects 
from breeding, keep the light lands — in which they breed — 
under thorough cultivation, and especially never seed them 
down. 

Rose Leaf-Hopper (Tettigonia rosce) .—Hopper, very small, 
white, often mistaken for thrips ; lives on the leaves of roses. 
Various stages of growth may be found in the leaves through- 
out the summer, and even on indoor plants. 

Remedies. — Whale-oil soap. Kerosene. Kerosene emulsion. 
Nicotyl vapor. 

Snails.— These animals are often very troublesome in green- 
houses, eating many plants voraciously. 

Preventives. — Trap them by placing pieces of turnip, cab- 
bage or potatoes about the house. Scatter bits of camphor- 
gum about the plants. Strew a line of salt along the edges 
of the bed. 

Strawberry. Strawberry Crowx-Borer (Tyloderma fragarice, 
Riley).— White grub, one-fifth inch long, boring into the 
crown of the plant in midsummer. The mature insect is a 
curculio or weevil. 

Remedy.— Burn over the field after the fruit is picked. If 
this does not destroy the insects, dig up the plants and burn 
them. 

Grub or Mat-Beetle.— See under May-Beetle. 

Strawberry Leap-Roller (Phoxopteris comptana, Frol.). — 
Larva, less than one-half inch long, feeding on the leaves, 
and rolling them up in threads of silk ; two broods. 

Remedies.— In first stage of attack apply hellebore. Burn 
the leaf -cases. 



38 The Horticulturist' s Rule-Book, 



Strawberry, continued. 

Strawberry Root-Louse (Aphis Forhesii, Weed). — From July 
to the close of the season the lice appear in great numbers 
on the crowns and in the roots of the plants. 

Remedies. — Rotation in planting. Disinfect plants com- 
ing from infested patches by dipping the crowns and roots in 
kerosene emulsion. 
Strawberry Root-Borer (Anarsia lineatella, Zeller). — Larva, 
about one-half inch long, whitish, boring into the crown of 
the plant late in the season and remaining in it over winter. 
Remedy. — Burn the plant. 
Strawberry Saw-Fly {Emphytus maculatus, Norton). — Larva, 
nearly three-fourths inch long, greenish, feeding upon the 
leaves ; two broods. 
Remedy. — Hellebore. Arsenites for second brood. 
Weevil (Anthonomus musculus. Say). — Beetle, one-tenth inch 
long, reddish, feeding on young fruit. 
Remedies. — Plaster and crude carbolic-acid mixture. 
Sumac. Apple-tree Borer. — See under Apple. 
Jumping Sumac-Beetle (Blepliarida rhois, Forst.j. — Larva, 
half inch long, dull greenish yellow, feeding on leaves ; two 
broods. 
Remedy. — Arsenites. 

Sweet-Potato. Saw-Fly (Scliizocerus ebenus, Norton). — Small 
larva about one-fourth inch long, working upon the leaves. 
The fly is about the size of a house-fly. 

Remedies. — Hellebore and pyrethrum are to be recom- 
mended ; also arsenites. 
Tomato, Fruit-Worm (HeUothis armiger. Hub.). — Larva, one 
inch in length, pale green or dark brown, faintly striped, 
feeding upon the fruit. Also on corn and cotton. 
Remedies. — Hand-picking. White hellebore. 
Tomato-Ringer (Stictocephala festina, Say).— A leaf-hopper 
which injures the stem of the young tomato-plant by punc- 
turing it in a ring. Southward. 
No remedy is known. 
Tomato-Worm (Macrosila quinquemaculata, Haw.). — A very 
large green worm feeding upon the stems and leaves of the 
tomato and husk tomato. 
Remedy. — Hand-picking. Hellebore. Arsenites. 



Injurious Insects. 



39 



Turnip. Maggot.— See under Cabbage. 

Weigelia. Four-striped Plant-Bug. — See under Currant. 

White Ants, or Termites.— These insects often infest orchard 

trees in the southern states, particularly in orchards which 

contain old stumps or rubbish. 
Remedy. — The soap-and-arsenites wash brushed over the 

trunk and branches of the tree. 
Willow. Willow- Worm (Venessa antiopa. Linn.) . — Larva, nearly 

two inches long, black, feeding upon leaves of willow, elm 

and poplar ; two broods. 
Remedy. — Arsenites. 
Wire-Worm (Various species) .—Slim and brown larvae, feeding 

upon the roots of various plants. They are the larvae of the 

click-beetle or snapping-beetle. 
Remedy. — Arsenites sprinkled upon baits of fresh clover or ' 

other material which is placed about the field under blocks 

or boards. Sweetened corn-meal dough also makes a good 

bait. The best treatment is to plow infested land in the fall. 

A system of short rotations of crops will greatly lessen 

injury from wire-worms. 



Inasmuch as the growth of one year determines {he possibility of 
a crop in the succeeding year > it follows that spraying, which insures 
healthy foliage, may show its greatest result in the following year. 
This secondary result of spray ing — its influence in determining pro- 
ductiveness — is fully as important as its immediate result in securing 
fair fruit ; and it emphasises the importance of spraying even when 
there is no fruit. Spraying sometimes fails, hut there is no horticul- 
tural practice which is surer to bring good results. 




CHAPTER III. 



Fungicides, for Plant-Diseases. 

The results obtained from the use of any insecticide or fungi- 
cide depend much upon the operator. Timeliness, thoroughness and 
persistence are the watchwords of success. It is easier to keep 
an enemy away than to drive him away. The worst foes are 
often the smallest ones, and the injury is often done before they 
are detected. Be ready, and begin early. 

The two most important fungicides are ammoniacal carbonate 
of copper and Bordeaux mixture. The former is cheaper ana 
more easily applied. The latter is more adhesive ; it cannot be 
thrown on to large trees. It case any disease is not mentioned, 
or you are in doubt and cannot secure advice, use one or the 
other of these preparations. 
Copper carbonate costs from 40 to 60 cents per pound. 
Copper sulphate costs 6 cents per pound. 
Ammoniacal carbonate of copper. — 1. Into a vessel having a ca- 
pacity of 2 quarts or more, pour 1 quart of ammonia 
(strength 22 degrees Baume), add 3 ounces carbonate of 
copper. Stir rapidly for a moment and the carbonate of 
copper will dissolve in the ammonia, forming a very clear 
liquid. The concentrated liquid thus prepared may be kept 
indefinitely. For use, dilute to 25 gallons. 

2. Carbonate of copper, 5 ounces ; ammonia (26°) , 3 pints ; 
water, 45 gallons. This is probably the better method. 
It is better to wet the carbonate before dissolving it. 
For grape-rot and mildew, apple-scab and many other di- 
seases. 

Ammoniated copper sulphate (Mixture No. 5 of Dept. of Agricul- 
ture) . — Equal parts of ammoniated copper sulphate and am- 
monia carbonate. Put 1 pound of the material in 25 gallons 
of water, when desired for use. For the same uses as am. 
moniacal carbonate of copper. 

(40) 



Fungicides, for Pla?it- Diseases. 41 



Blight-powder, Sulphated sulphur. — Prepared by thoroughly 
mixing from 3 to 8 pounds of anhydrous sulphate of copper 
with 90 to 100 pounds of flowers of sulphur. For simulta- 
neous treatment of downy mildew, tomato and potato-blight 
and rot. Little used. 

Bordeaux mixture (Copper mixture of Gironde). — 1. Dissolve 6 
pounds of sulphate of copper in 16 gallons of water. In an- 
other vessel slake 4 pounds of fresh lime in 6 gallons of 
water. When the latter mixture has cooled, it is slowly 
poured into the copper solution, care being taken to mix the 
fluids thoroughly by constant stirring. Prepare some days 
before use. Stir before applying. Stronger mixtures were 
at first recommended, but they are not now used. 

2. Powdered sulphate of copper, 12 pounds in 15-20 gal- 
lons water ; lime, 8 pounds in 10-12 gallons of water. When 
the materials are thoroughly incorporated with the water, 
add the two mixtures. 

For downy-mildew and black-rot of the grape, blight and 
rot of the tomato and potato, blights of fruits, and many other 
diseases. 

Sometimes the mixture is not washed off the grapes by the 
rains. In this case, add one quart of strong cider- vinegar to 
5 gallons of water, and dip the grapes, allowing them to re- 
main a few minutes, then rinse once or twice. Dip the 
grapes by placing them in a wire basket. 

Carbolic acid (Phenic acid). — 1. Half -pint to 10 gallons of water. 
For powdery mildew of the vine. 

2. Soap-suds, 10 gallons ; glycerine, 1 pound ; carbolic 
acid, % pint. Mix thoroughly to form an emulsion. For 
orange-leaf scab. 

Chloride of iron. — A very dilute solution of chloride of iron has 
been used with success in combating the coffee disease due 
to Hemileia vastatrix. The solution is applied to the under 
surface of the leaves by means of a pulverizator or spraying- 
apparatus. Its sticky nature causes it to adhere for two 
months. It is suggestive in connection with some of our 
plant-diseases. 

Copper, Precipitated carbonate of. — Dissolve 2 pounds of sulphate 
of copper in hot water, and in another vessel 2.5 pounds of 
sal soda in hot water ; when cool, the two are added together 
with constant stirring. The mixture is then diluted to 25 
gallons. For diseases of the grape. 



The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book, 



David's powder. — Dissolve 4 pounds of sulphate of copper in the 
least possible amount of hot water, and slake 16 pounds of 
lime with the smallest quantity of water required. When 
the copper solution and slaked lime are completely cooled, 
mix them together thoroughly : let the compound dry in the 
sun, then crush and sift. Apply with a sulphuring-bellows 
furnished with an outside receptacle for the powder. For 
downy mildew and black-rot of the grape, mildew and an- 
thracnose. 

Destroying affected parts.— It is important that all affected parts 
should be removed and burned, if possible. In the fall all 
leaves and fruit which have been attacked by fungi should 
be raked up and burned. Diseased branches should be sev- 
ered at some distance below the lowest visible point of 
attack. Fungous diseases often spread rapidly, and prompt 
action is usually necessary. 

Eau celeste.— 1 (Audoynaud process). Dissolve 1 pound of sul- 
phate of copper in 2 gallons of hot water. When com- 
pletely dissolved and the water has cooled, add 1% pints of 
commercial ammonia (strength 22 degrees Baume). When 
ready to use, dilute to 25 gallons. For treatment of downy 
mildew and black-rot of the grape, anthracnose. and blight 
and rot of the tomato and potato, and many other diseases. 

2. Dissolve 1 pound of sulphate of copper in 2 gallons of 
water. In another vessel dissolve 1 pound of carbonate of 
soda. Mix the two solutions. When chemical reaction has 
ceased, add \}4 pints of ammonia, then dilute to 25 gallons. 
For the same purpose as No. 1, and probably better. 

Grison liquid (Eau Grisori) . — Prepared by boiling 3 pounds each of 
flowers of sulphur and lime in 6 gallons of water until re- 
duced to 2 gallons. When settled, pour off the clear liquid 
and bottle it. When used, mix 1 pint of clear liquid in 100 
parts of water. For mildew and powdery mildew of vines. 

Fcdeschard's powder. — Dissolve 45 pounds of sulphate of copper 
in water. When thoroughly dissolved, pour the solution 
upon 225 pounds of air-slaked lime, which is surrounded by 
'SO pounds of ashes to keep the liquid from spreading. After 
24 hours add 20 pounds of flowers of sulphur. Thoroughly 
mix the compound, ashes and all. When dry. sift through a 
sieve with meshes of one-eighth inch. Will keep for 
months. For downy mildew, mildew and anthracnose. 



Fttngicides ) jor Plant- Diseases. 



43 



Potassium sulphide.— Used at the rate of % or % ounce to the 
gallon of water. For various mildews, as gooseberry mildew. 

Skawinski's powder. — Mix 22 pounds of finely powdered sulphate 
of copper with 33 pounds of soot or alluvial earth and 165 
pounds of coal-dust. For treatment of mildews. 

Skawinski's sulphate of iron and sulphuric acid solution.— Sul- 
phate of iron, 110 pounds; sulphuric acid (53 degrees), 1>£ 
pints ; warm water, 22 gallons. Pour sulphuric acid on the 
crystals of iron, then add the water. Use while warm. 

Soda hyposulphite.— 1. Half -ounce to 10 gallons of water. For 
various diseases. Little used now. 

2. 1 pound in 10 to 20 gallons of water. For celery leaf- 
blight, orange leaf-blight, apple-scab. Should be used as 
as soon prepared. Little used. 

Sulfo-steatite or Cupric steatite. — An exceedingly fine bluish 
powder composed of steatite, or talc, and about 10 per cent, 
of sulphate of copper. Considered the most adherent of all 
fungicide powders. For mildews. 

Sulphate of copper. — 1. Dissolve }{ pound of pure sulphate of 
copper in 5 to 12 gallons of water. For treatment of downy 
mildew and black-rot of grape and apple-scab in winter, or 
in spring before the buds swell. 

2. Dissolve 5 to 8 pounds in 10 gallons of water. For soak- 
ing grains previous to sowing, to destroy spores of smuts. 
The Germans use a %-per-cent. solution, and soak the grains 
for about 16 hours. 

Sulphate of iron. — 1. Simple solution in water of 4 to 8 pounds to 
the gallon. To be used only as a wash before the buds swell. 
For anthracnose of the vine and raspberry, etc. 
2. For a spra5 r , dissolve about 1% pounds to the gallon. 

Sulphatine, the Esteve process. — Mix 2 pounds of anhydrous sul- 
phate of copper with 20 pounds of flowers of sulphur and 2 
pounds of air-slaked lime. For mildew, downy mildew and 
black-rot of grape, tomato and potato-blight and rot. 

Sulphide, or sulphuret, of potassium (Liver of sulphur).— Simple 
solution in water of to 1 ounce to the gallon. For mildew 
in greenhouses, mildew on roses, erinose of vine, orange 
leaf-scab, celery leaf-blight, pear and apple-scab and various 
rots. 

Sulphide of soda wash (Hilgard-s) . — Dissolve 30 pounds of whale- 
oil soap in 60 gallons of water by heating the two together 



44 The Horticulturist' s Rule-Book. 



Sulphide of soda wash, continued. 

thoroughly. Then boil 3 pounds of American concentrated 
lye with 6 pounds of sulphur and 2 gallons of water. When 
thoroughly dissolved, it is a dark brown liquid, chemically 
called sulphide of soda. Mix the two — the soap and the sul- 
phur — well, and allow them to boil for half an hour, then add 
90 gallons of water to the mixture, and it is ready for use. 
Apply it warm by means of a spray-pump. Used warm, its 
effect is better and less material is required than when cold- 
For scab diseases. 

Sulphur. — In its dry and pulverized state, sulphur, known as 
flowers of sulphur, is often a valuable fungicide, particu- 
larly for surface-mildew. In the greenhouse it may also be 
used in fumes. Evaporate it over a steady heat, as an oil- 
stove, until the house is filled with the vapor. It should 
never be heated to the burning point, as burning sulphur 
quickly destroys most plants. It may also be used in water, 
in the proportion of an ounce of sulphur to 5 gallons of 
water. 

Sulphur and lime. — A mixture of sulphur and lime in equal parts 
by weight. For anthracnose during gro wing-season. 
Some fungicides may be added to London-purple or Paris- 
green mixtures, as explained on page 8. 



The best spraying machine is the one 
which throws the finest spray to the 
greatest distance. 



CHAPTER IV. 



Plant-Diseases: 

WITH PREVENTIVES AND REMEDIES. 

Apple. Blight. — The same disease as pear-blight, which see. 
Brown-Rot. — See under Cherry. 

Powdery Mildew (Podosphcera oxycanthcB, DeBary). — Attacks 
nursery stocks, covering leaves with a grayish and powdery 
meal-like mildew. 

Remedy. — Ammoniacal carbonate of copper, applied four or 
five times. 

Ripe-Rot or Bitter-Rot. (Glceosporium fructigenum, Berk.). — 
A rot which attacks ripe apples and grapes. It attacks the 
fruit before it is picked usually, although it may not become 
apparent until it is stored. Many of the culls in packed fruit 
are due to this fungus. 

Remedies. — Spray the fruit late in the season (beginning 
early in August) with ammoniacal carbonate of copper, or 
potassium sulphide Q4 ounce to gallon of water) . 
Rust (species of Roestelia). — Bright yellow rust appearing on 
the young leaves and fruit, causing the whole tree to become 
enfeebled. It is now known that one stage of this fungus is 
the " cedar-apple ? ' which grows on red cedars and junipers, 
where it is known as Gymnosporangium. Several species 
have been described. 

Preventive. — Destroy the cedars or keep them free from the 
''apples. 1 ' Destroy hawthorns and escaped apples, which 
are liable to be infested. Some varieties of apples appear to 
be more susceptible to injury than others. 

Remedy. — Spray early with ammoniacal carbonate of cop- 
per. 

(45) 



46 



The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Apple, continued. 

Scab (Fusicladium dentriticum, Fckl.). — Brown or blackish 
scab-like spots on the leaves and fruit, arresting growth and 
causing the parts to become distorted. Very common. 

Preventive or Remedy. — Spray with sulphate of copper while 
the trees are dormant, if apple-scab is feared. Thereafter 
spray with ammoniacal carbonate of copper. The first 
application of this should be made as soon as the leaves 
appear and before the blossoms open, and the second as soon 
as the blossoms fall. Two or three subsequent sprayings 
may be necessary at intervals of two or three weeks. Am- 
moniated copper sulphate, applied as above, has also given 
good results. 

Apricot. Leaf-Rust. — See under Plum. 

Balm of Gilead. Leaf-Rust. — See under Poplar. 

Bean. Axthracxose, or Pod-Rust (Glceosporium Lindemuthi- 
anum. Sacc. and Magn.). — Reddish brown scab-like spots 
appearing upon bean-pods, particularly upon the yellow- 
podded string-beans. It also attacks watermelons. 
Preventive. —Plant in dry and airy places, on light soil. 
Remedies. — Copper sprays. Sulphur and water. 

Bean, Lima. Blight (Phytophtlwra Phaseoli. Thaxter). — Attacks 
the pods in August and September, covering them with a 
white, felted coating. It also attacks the young shoots and 
leaves. 

Remedy. — Bordeaux mixture. 
Beet. Rust (Uromyces heta\ Pers.). — Powdery reddish brown 
spots on the leaves of beets in California, often doing much 
injury. 

Remedies. — Copper sprays. Burn the infested leaves. 
Blackberry. Caxe-Rust or Axthracxose. — See under Rasp- 
berry. 

Red or Orange-Rust. — See under Raspberry. 
Buttonwood. Leaf-Scorchixg. See under Plane-tree. 
Cabbage. Club-Root or Club-Foot (Plasmidiophora brassiere, 
Woronin). — A contorted swelling of the root of the cabbage 
in the field, preventing the plant from heading and causing 
it to assume a sickly appearance. 

Remedies. — Burn the roots as soon as the disease appears. 
Alternate crops. It is thought that stable-manures aggra- 
vate the disease. 



Plan t- Diseases. 



47 



Carnation. Rust (Septoria Dianthi. Desm.).— Attacks the leaves 
in large, light brown spots, or occasionally the whole leaf 
becomes discolored and wilts. Probably introduced from 
Europe. 

Preventives. — If the disease is feared, be careful not to 
apply water to the leaves. Ammoniacal carbonate of copper 
or Bordeaux mixture. Burn all infested leaves. 

Another Rust (Uromyccs wryophyMinus, Schr.) also occurs 
upon the carnation, producing gray blisters upon the leaves. 
The treatment is the same as for the above. In both in- 
stances, a careful picking and burning of the infected parts 
is one of the surest preventives of further attacks. 
Celery. Celekt-leaf Blight, Rust or Sux-Scald (Cei'cospora 
Apii, Fries). — Appears in hot and dry places and seasons, 
about mid-summer. Small yellowish spots appear upon the 
leaves ; later the leaves turn yellow, then brown, and dies. 

Preventive. — Plant in a ino'ist and cool place, and shade the 
plants if necessary. Destroy all diseased leaves in autumn. 
Cherry. Bhowx-Rot (MonUia fructigena, Pers.). — Attacks flow- 
ers, leaves and fruit. The flowers die and decay, the leaves 
become discolored with brownish patches, and the fruit 
rots on the tree. Attacks also peaches, plums and apples. 

Remedies. — Burn all infested fruit and leaves in the fall. 
Before buds expand in spring spray with sulphate of iron 
or copper. When the flowers are opening, spray again with 
ammoniacal carbonate of copper, and repeat the operation at 
intervals of a week or two until the fruit begins to color. 
See under Peach. 
Leaf-Rust. See under Plum. 
Powdery Mildew. See under Apple. 
Corn. Rot. — Due to bacteria. The plants are dwarfed, and 
unusually slender. The roots become mucilaginous and 
decay, as do the leaf-sheaths and the ears. 

No remedies or preventives are known except rotation. 
Smut (Ustilago Zece-JIays, D. C). — A fungus attacking the ears 
of corn, producing familiar black abnormal growths. 

Preventive. — Plant seed from clean fields. 

Remedies. — Cut out smut and burn it. Soak seed in sul- 
phate of copper before planting. 
Cottonwood. Leaf-Rust. — See under Poplar. 



+ 8 



The Horticulturist 's Rule-Book. 



Cranberry. Gall-Fungus [SynchytHum vaednU, Thomas) . — Mi- 
nute red galls or pimples upon the leaves, flowers and stems, 
causing the parts to become misshapen and dwarfed. 

Remedy. — Burn the infested plants and also wild plants 
about the bog which are infested. Withholding the water 
from the bog in winter and spring may subdue it. 
Scald. — Attacking the fruit early in the season, at first produc- 
ing a scalded appearance, and later decay. 

Remedies. — Sanding the bog and keeping water off in sum- 
mer are partial remedies. 
Cucumber. Mildew (Oidium erysiphoides var. CaeurlDitarum).— 
A white mold-like mildew which appears in spots upon the 
leaves of cucumbers, especially under glass. 

Remedies. — Evaporated sulphur. Spray with ammoniacal 
carbonate of copper. 
Currant, Rust or Leap-spot (H&ptoria Ribis. Desni.). — Appears 
about mid-summer, on leaves of white, red and black cur- 
rants, as whitish spots with black centers. It causes the 
leaves to fall. 

Remedies. — Destroy infested leaves. Spraying with Bor- 
deaux mixture and carbonate of copper, as for grape-rot. 

Damping-off. — A term applied to the decay of young seedlings 
and cuttings at or near the surface of the ground. The 
trouble is undoubtedly due to a great variety of causes, 
but it is thought to be cftenest the work of species of 
fungi of the genus pythium (as Pythium vcxc.ns. P. omnivonim 
and P. DeBaryanum). It is probably sometimes due to 
some fungus which exists in the seed, and in such cases — 
if they could be determined — soaking the seed in carbonate 
of copper is to be recommended. A confined atmosphere, 
compact and wet soil, favor damping-off. 

Preventives and Remedies. — Ventilate the cutting or seed- 
beds, do not let the plants crowd, and do not keep very wet. 
and keep the soil equally moist throughout its depth. When 
the trouble appears among valuable plants, the healthy ones 
should be transplanted into fresh soil. Dusting the soil 
with sulphur, and sifting upon it and the plants very hot 
clean sand, are to be recommended. 

Gooseberry.— Mildew (Sphoerothcca Mors-uvce. B. £ C.).— A 



Plant-Diseases. 



49 



Gooseberry (Mildew), continued. 

downy mildew attacking the fruits and young growth of 
English varieties of gooseberry (varieties of Ribes Grossu- 
laria) . 

Remedy. — Potassium sulphide (liver of sulphur), % ounce 
to a gallon of water is a sure remedy, if applied as soon 
as the leaves begin to unfold, and at intervals of two or 
three weeks thereafter. 
Grape. Anthracnose or Scab (Spliaceloma ampelinum, DeBary). 
— The fungus attacks the leaves, where it forms definite 
brown spots, and also the young shoots and the fruits, where 
it forms pits or scabs. Generally distributed east of the 
Mississippi. Probably introduced from Europe. 

Remedies. — It is difficult to combat. Before growth starts, 
cut out and burn affected canes and then spray with a strong 
solution of sulphate of iron. After the leaves open, use 
sulphur and lime powder ; or the vines may be sprayed with 
Bordeaux mixture or ammonia cal carbonate of copper. 
Black-Rot (Lcestadia Bidwelli, V. & R. ; Phoma uvicola, B. 
& C). — Attacks the young berries. The fruit becomes 
black, hard, dry, and shriveled, and is covered with mi- 
nute pimples. Occurs east of the Rocky Mountains, especially 
southwards. Of American origin. 

Preventive. — A board placed over the trellis, as mentioned 
under the downy mildew, is some protection ; but the spray 
is sure : 

Remedies. — Burn infested fruits in autumn. If an attack is 
feared, spray with a plain solution of sulphate of iron or 
copper before the buds swell. Thereafter use Bordeaux 
mixture or ammoniacal carbonate of copper, at intervals of 
10 to 15 days, continuing for 5 or 6 applications if necessary. 
The first spraying is made just before the blossoms open. 
Perhaps the best method is to use Bordeaux mixture for the 
first applications, and ammoniacal carbonate of copper for 
the last one or two, as this removes the danger of discolor- 
ing the grapes by the Bordeaux mixture. Very good results 
are obtained by the continuous use of the carbonate of cop- 
per, and it is applied more easily than the Bordeaux mixture. 

The cost of spraying grapes six times during the season, 
including the cost of the chemicals, is estimated at two cents 



5° 



The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book, 



Grape (Black-Rot), continued. 

per vine for ammoniacal carbonate of copper and three cents 
for Bordeaux mixture. These figures assume that the best 
appliances are used, and that the plantation is a half acre or 
more in extent, and that the copper carbonate costs not to 
exceed 40 cents per pound and the copper sulphate not to 
exceed 6 cents per pound. 

Note. — The following are synonyms for black-rot: 
Sphceria Bidwellii, Physalospora Bidwellii, Phoma uvicola, Phoma 
uvicola yar. Labruscce, Sphceropsis uvarum, Phoma uvarum, 
Nemaspora ampelicida, Pliyllosticta Labruscce* (the " leaf-spot" 
form), Pliyllosticta viticola, Phoma ustulatum, Phyllosticta ampe- 
lopsidis, Sacidium viticolum, Septoria viticola, Ascochyta Ellisii. 
Downy Mildew, Brown-Rot. {Peronospora viticola, DeBary) .— 
Appears in small frost-like patches on the under surface of 
the leaves, finally causing yello wish discoloration pn the upper 
surface. It also causes the brown-rot of the fruit. The ber- 
ries remain small and firm, usually not wrinkled, and become 
brown in color. The disease is worst on thin and smooth- 
leaved varieties, as the Delaware and others. It extends 
generally throughout the Union. Of American origin. 

Preventive. — A wide board nailed flatwise on the top of the 
trellis so as to protect the vines somewhat, as with a roof, is 
a considerable protection, as it tends to keep the vines dry. 
Vines trained against a building rarely suffer. 

Remedy. — The same as for black-rot, which see. 
Powdery Mildew (Uncinula spiralis, B. & C). — Appears early 
in the season as delicate dust-like patches or covering on 
the leaves, mostly on the upper surface, and on shoots and 
fruits. Berries attacked by it become checked in growth, 
and may remain small and die, or they sometimes grow and 
crack before death ensues. It attacks grapes in vineries 
which are not properly ventilated and managed. Occurs 
generally throughout the Union, but is less destructive than 
the downy mildew. American origin. 

Remedy. — Dry sulphur applied to the vines, two or three 
times — once when the shoots just begin to push, again when 
in blossom, and usually again shortly before the grapes 
begin to turn. Apply in warm and bright weather, after the 
dew is off. In vineries, the sulphur may be scattered on the 



Pla nt- Diseases . 



5i 



Grape (Powdery Mildew), continued. 

hot pipes. Any of the sprays of copper compounds are 
specifics. 

Ripe-Rot (Gloeosporium fructigenum, Berk.). — See under Apple- 
The treatment for black-rot is efficacious for this. 
Hollyhock. Rust (Puccinia Malvacearum, Mont. ) . — Appears upon 
leaves of hollyhocks and a few related plants in small, light 
brown patches. Introduced from Europe, and becoming com- 
mon in this country. 

Remedies. — To destroy the plants is the only general method 
yet employed to prevent the spread of the disease, but some 
of the copper fungicides may be used. 
Lettuce. Mildew {Pcronospora gangliformis, DeBary). — A deli- 
cate mildew, attacking lettuce-leaves and causing yellow or 
brown spots, and finally killing the leaf. 

Preventives. (According to Maynard.) — Grow at a low 
temperature (35° to 40° at night, 50° to 70° during day) ; give 
abundance of plant-food; give abundance of water, but 
apply it in morning and bright days only; avoid sudden 
extreme changes of temperature. 

Remedy. — Fumes of sulphur. 
Maple. Leaf-Spot (PlujUosticta cice?~icola, C. & E.). — Attacks the 
leaves of red, silver, and striped maples in spring, causing 
them to become spotted and unsightly, and lessening the 
vigor of the tree. 

Remedies. — Rake and burn the leaves in autumn. When 
the leaves are two -thirds grown spray with sulphide of 
potassium or copper fungicides, and repeat every three or 
four weeks as long as necessary. 
Onion. Rust (Peronospora Schleideniana, Unger). — The leaves 
turn yellow about the time the onions begin to bottom, or a 
little later, and wilt and die. 

Remedies. — Grow on land not infected, and destroy all af- 
fected onions. Spray early with copper fungicides. 
Smut (Urocystis cepulce, Frost). — Attacks the first leaf or 
leaves of seedling onions, producing dark irregular spots, 
and killing or weakening the plants. 

Remedy. — The sulphur and lime mixture drilled into the 
ground with the seed ; about an ounce of the mixture to 50 
feet of drill. 



52 



The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Orange. Orange-leaf Scab ( Cladosporium) . — The leaves become 

yellow and distorted. 
Remedy. — Spray with Grison liquid, or carbolic acid .'. 

Peach, Brown-Rot.— See under Cherry. 
Curl. Leaf-Curl or Frenches' g- *' Teiphrina deformans, Tnl. : 
written also Ascomyces deformans and Exoascus deformans) . 
—The leaves become blistered and crumpled early in the 
season and fall on*. 
Remedies.— Good culture, to enable the tree to put forth new 

Leaf-Rtst.— See under Plum. 
Powdery Mildew— Sec under Apple. 

Rot and Blight M^niUa fruetiaena. Pers. This is the famil- 
iar quick rotting of peaches when nearly ripe or after they 

Preventives. — Burn or bury all affected fruits as soon as 
they appear. In wet weather, when peaches are rotting 

pick and destroy the injured fruits. Burning or plowing 
under the leaves in the fall is to be recommended. Before 
the leaves appear, spray with some copper compound, as 
sulphate of copper or Bordeaux mixture, and spray t here- 
after several times. These sprays are not specifics, but 
they appear to hold the disease in check. It is said that har- 
vested fruit can he preserved for a short time against the 
fungus by dipping it in a solution of potassium sulphide 
(liver of sulphur) . 
Yellows. — The first symptom in bearing trees is usually the 
premature ripening of the fruit. This fruit contains definite 
small red spots which extend to the pit. The next stage is 
indicated by very slender shoots, which branch the first 
year and which start in clumps from the old limbs, tearing 
narrow and small yellowish leaves. Later the entire foliage 
becomes smaller and yellow. In three or four years the tree 



Plant- Diseases. 



53 



Peach (Yellows), continued. 

dies. The disease spreads from tree to tree. It attacks 
trees of any age. Known at present only in regions east of 
the Mississippi. Peculiar to America, so far as known. 

Preventive. — Burn all trees as soon as the disease appears. 
Laws aiming to suppress the disease should be enacted in all 
peach-growing states. 

Pear. Blight (Micrococcus amylovorus, Burrill). — Distinguished 
by the blackening of the entire leaf, and the blackening of 
the bark. Attacks the flower clusters. It may destroy 
branches or the whole tree. Generally distributed east of 
the 100th meridian. Known only in America. Attacks the 
apple. 

Remedy. — As soon as the disease is discovered, cut off the 
affected parts a foot below the point of lowest visible attack, 
and burn them. 

Leaf-Blight and Cracking of the Fruit (Entomosporium 
maculatum, Lev.; Morthiera Mespili, is the same). — Attacks 
nursery-stocks of pears, beginning as small and circular 
brown spots on the leaves ; soon the entire leaf turns brown 
and falls. Also causes the cracking of the fruit. 

Remedies. — Bordeaux mixture, eau celeste, or ammoniacal 
carbonate of copper, applied four or five times. Begin when 
the leaves are half-grown, and follow at intervals of from 
two to four weeks. 

Root-Rot (Polyporus versicolor, Fries). — Attacks the roots, the 
white and felt-like threads of the fungus at length becoming 
very abundant and conspicuous. The trees produce a short 
and thick growth, the new wood being reddish, the leaves 
becoming yellowish or bronzed, and there is an unusual ten- 
dency to form fruit-buds. The tree may die quickly or may 
live for several years. The roots rot away and the tree tips 
over. The disease is worst on poor and dry soils and in 
grassy orchards. 

Remedies. — Give good culture. Remove the earth from the 
crown and apply a dressing of lime. 

Rust.— See under Apple. 

Scab (Fusicladium pyrinum, Fckl.). — Brown or blackish scab- 
like spots on the leaves and fruit, arresting the growth and 
causing the parts to become distorted. 



54 The Horticulturist' s Ride- Book. 



Pear (Scab), continued. 

Remedy. — S pra y several times during June and July vrith 
ammoniacal carbonate of copper or Bordeaux mixture. 
Plane-Tree, Leaf-Scorching (Glceosporium ncrviscquum, Sacc). 
— Attacks the leaves in spring, causing them to appear as if 
scorched. They finally fall off. Attacks both the native and 
oriental planes. 

Remedy.— Bum all leaves when they fall. Spray with cop 
per compounds. 

Plum, Brown-Rot.— See under Cherry. 
Leap-Rust (Puccinia pruni-spinosce. Pers.). — Small round 
powdery spots of yellowish brown on the under surface of 
the leaves, and reddish spots on the upper surface directly 
above them. 

Remedy. — Spray trees early in the season with Bordeaux 
mixture, ammoniacal carbonate of copper, eau celeste, or 
other fungicides. 

Plum-Knot or Plum-Wart (PlouTiglitia [Spliaria] moroosa. 
Sacc). — A black and irregular swelling, from one to five or 
six inches long, appearing on the small limbs of plum and 
cherry. Peculiar to America. A very serious disease. 

Remedies. — Burn all affected parts in the fall. If the knot 
is found upon a large limb or trunk, cut it out and wash the 
wound with sulphate of copper. Wash the parts as soon as 
the swelling begins to appear, with linseed oil. turpentine or 
kerosene, using the two latter with caution. A paint of red 
oxide of iron in linseed oil is recommended. Probably spray- 
ing with strong copper sulphate solution (10 per cent, solu- 
tion) or similar mixtures in winter or early spring will prove 
to be valuable remedies. All remedies are uncertain. 

Plum-leap or Shot-hole Fungus (Septoria cerasina. Peck: 
Oylindrosporium Padi). — Appears as spots upon the leaves in 
July, and these spots assume definite outlines, and often fall 
out. leaving holes like shot-holes. The leaves fail early, pre- 
venting the fruit from maturing. The disease is sometimes 
designated simply ''Falling of the leaves.*' 

Remedies. — Burn leaves as soon as they fall. Bordeaux 
mixture or ammoniacal carbonate of copper applied several 
times during the season, beginning a? soon as the leaves 
appear. 



Plant- Diseases . 



55 



Plum, continued. 

Plum Pockets or Bladders {Taphrina pruni, Tul.). — Causes 
the fruit to become inflated and hollow. These " bladders " 
begin to appear soon after the flowers fall, and continue to 
grow for several months, when they fall. They are at first 
globular, but finally become oblong, often reaching two inches 
in length. The fungus attacks the fruit of the Chickasaw and 
American plums, and various species of plum and cherry. 

Remedies. — Destroy the "bladders" before they mature, 
together with small portions of the wood on which they are 
borne. Spray before buds expand with strong sulphaie of 
copper or iron, and follow with copper fungicides. 

Powdery Mildew. — See under Apple. 

Rot or Blight. — See under Peach. 
Poplar. Leaf-Rust (Melampsora populina, L6v.). — An orange 
rust attacking, during summer, the leaves of various species 
of poplar, including the cottonwood, balm of Gilead, etc. 

Remedies. — Rake and burn the leaves. Spray with copper 
compounds. 

Potato. Potato-Rot or Blight (Phytophthora infestans, DeBary) . 
.The spores first germinate upon the tops or vines, causing 
the foliage to blight. The disease soon spreads to the tubers, 
causing discolored and diseased potatoes. It is a " dry rot." 
The fungus may remain in the tubers during winter. 

Preventive. — Plant on light or loamy, well-drained soil 
Plant only sound and disinfected tubers. Hill deep. 

Remedy. — Spray the tops with Bordeaux mixture, or other 
fungicide, upon the first indication of the blight, and make 
three or more applications at intervals of ten days or two 
weeks. 

The tubers should be stored in a cool and dry place. Dust- 
ing them in the cellar with dry air-slaked lime is to be recom- 
mended. Subjecting the tubers to a temperature of 105° to 
110° for a few days will destroy the fungus and will not 
injure the tubers for planting. 

There is another kind of potato blight and rot widely dis- 
tributed over the country, and due to a germ or bacterium. 
The leaves curl, the plant droops and finally dies, and the 
tubers contract a putrid rot. Very serious. No remedy is 
known. Practice rotation. 



56 The Horticulturist* s Rule- Book. 



Quince. Leaf-Brownxess or Blight (Entomosporium macu- 
latum, Lev., var. Cydonice, Sacc.). — Leaves become spotted 
and then turn yellow and fall. This disease often causes 
considerable damage. It is nearly identical with leaf-blight 
of the pear (which see) . 
Rust. — See under Apple. 
Raspberry. Caxe-Rust or Anthracnose (Glceosporium necator, 
E. & E.). — The spots or patches of fungus appear on both the 
canes and leaves. The disease attacks the base of the canes 
first and spread upwards. It makes sunken patches on the 
canes and causes the fruit to dry up. 

Preventive. — Give plants an abundance of light and air by 
broad planting and high training. 

Remedy. — Spray before the buds swell with sulphate of 
iron, and follow later with Bordeaux mixture or ammoniacai 
carbonate of copper. Burn all canes that are past recovery. 
Red or Oraxge-Rust (Cceoma luminatum. Link). — Attacks the 
under surface of the leaves of black and sometimes red rasp- 
berries, and of blackberries, in patches of whitish yellow, 
but the fungus finally covers the whole under surface with 
an orange-red coating. 

Preventive. — Plant such varieties as are least susceptible 
to attack. Among blackberries, Kittatinny is particularly 
susceptible. 

Remedies. — Burn the plants, roots and branch, as soon as 
the disease appears. Bordeaux mixture may be tried. 
Rose. Leae-Blight or Black-Spot (Actinonema rosa, Fries). 
— Attacks the full-grown leaves, first appearing as small 
black spots, but later covering nearly or quite the whole sur- 
face with blotches. The spots have frayed edges. Common 
in outdoor and house-culture. 

Remedies. — In the house, fumes of sulphur. Outdoors, 
burn the affected leaves and spray with Bordeax mixture or 
ammoniacai carbonate of copper. Spray before the leaves 
unfold. 

Leae-Spot (Cercospora roscecola, Pass.). — Black or reddish 
black spots on the leaves, shading into red at the definite 
edges. Later the center of the spot becomes light brown or 
gray. Attacks plants growing outdoors. 

Remedies. — Burn diseased parts. Plant in an airy and dry 
place. Spray with copper fungicides. 



Plan t- Diseases. 



57 



Rose, continued. 

Mildew (Sphcerotheca pannosa, Lev.). — Whitish mildew attack- 
ing roses. It is brought on, according to Maynard, by 
exposure to drafts of extremely cold air when the plants are 
growing rapidly, by high temperature running the same day 
and night, by watering just before night, by too little water, 
by extreme dryness, by poor drainage, by deficiency in 
plant-food. 

Remedies. — Fumes of sulphur. Copper fungicides. 
Rust (Phragmidium mucronatum, Winter). — Appears in small 
and scattered bright yellow spots or pustules on the leaves, 
which at length become distorted, and upon the young growth. 

Remedy. — Spray with Bordeaux mixture or other fungi- 
cides. 

Spinage. — Several fungi attack the spinage, of which the follow- 
ing are the worst : 
Mildew (Peronospora effusa, Rabenh.). — Producing violet-gray 
patches upon the under side of the leaves and yellow spots 
above ; 

Anthracxose (Collctrotrichum Spinacece, Ell. & Hals.). — Pro- 
ducing brown and gray blotches upon the leaves ; 

Leaf-Blight (Phyllosticta Chenopodii, Sacc.). — Forming many 
minute pimples on the leaf, usually upon its under surface ; 

Whit Smut (Entyloma EUisii, Hals.). — Covering the whole leaf 
with a white coat. 

Remedies. — No definite remedies are yet known for these 
diseases. Sprays of some of the sulphur fungicides may 
check them. Burning all affected plants, and rotation, are to 
be advised. 

Strawberry. Mildew (Sprceotheca Castagnei, Lev.). — A whitish 
cobweb-like mildew spreading over the fruit and leaves. 

Remedy. — If the disease is discovered early enough, some 
liquid fungicide, as ammoniacal carbonate of copper or Bor- 
deaux mixture, should be employed. 
Strawberry Leae-Blioht or Sux-Burn (Sphcerella fragariw, 
Sacc, including Ramularia). — Small purple or red spots 
appearing on the leaves. They eventually become larger and 
browner, making the leaf appear blotched. 

Remedies. — Spray with Bordeaux mixture or ammoniacal 
carbonate of copper at intervals of two weeks, beginning 



58 



The Horticulturist's Ride- Book. 



Strawberry (Strawberry Leaf -Blight or Sun-Burn), continued. 

as soon as the fruit is picked. Destroy all affected leaves. 
The leaves are easily destroyed without injury to the plants 
by quickly burning off a thin layer of straw which is spread 
over the patch after the fruit is off. 
Sweet-Potato. Black-Rot (Ceratocystis fimbriata, E. & Hals.).— 
A dry-rot of the tuber, and a black rust upon the stems. 
Upon the tuber it appears in large scab-like patches, and is 
usually evident at digging time. It may appear upon the 
young plants in the hotbed and persist upon them through- 
out the season. 

Remedies.— Rotation of crops. Spray the young plants, if 
attack is feared, with some copper fungicides. 

Dry-Rot (Phoma batatas, E. & Hals.). — The upper end of the 
tuber becomes dry and wrinkled and bears a multitude of 
pimples, and its flesh becomes dry and powdery. 
Preventive. — Destroy all affected tubers. 

Leaf-Blight (Phyllosticta bataticola, E. & M.). — Produces 
white, dead patches upon the leaves. 
Remedy. — Spray with some of the copper fungicides. 

Scurf (Monilochcetes infuscans, E. & Hals.). — The whole sur- 
face of the potato becomes scurfy, and it causes the tuber to 
shrink. 

Preventive. — Use only healthy potatoes for seed. 

Soft-Rot (Rhizopus nigricans, Ehr.). — The tubers rot with a 
soft and putrid decay. It is most destructive after the pota- 
toes are stored. 

Preventive.— Store in a well- ventilated, artificially warmed 
room, at a temperature of about 70°. Store only sound and 
perfect tubers, and remove at once any which are attacked. 

Soil-Rot (Acrocystis batatas, E. & Hals.). — The tubers are 
attacked when young, and the diseased portion ceases to 
grow, causing the potato to become constricted or variously 
contorted. 

Preventive. — Rotation. It is probable that the sweet-potato 
cannot be grown again safely on infested soil for a number 
of years. 

Stem-Rot, Black-Shank. — An obscure disease attacking the 
young shoots near the ground and the tops of the young 



Plant- Diseases, 



59 



Sweet-Potato (Stem-Rot), continued. 

tubers, causing the tubers to rot away above, and to send up 
sprouts below the injured portion. 
Preventive. — Rotation. Heat the soil used for seed-bed. 
White-Mold or Leaf-Mold (Cystopus Ipomcea-pandurancv, 
Faii.) — The leaves become pale and brown patches appear, 
and small whitish patches occur on the under surface. It 
thrives upon the wild potato-vine or inan-of-the-earth 
(Ipomcea pandurata) . 

Preventive. — Destroy the wild potato- vine upon which the 
fungus grows. 

Remedy. — Some copper fungicide applied in a spray. 
White-Rot. — This disease causes portions of the tuber to 
become white and chalk-like, and sometimes the whole tuber 
assumes a chalk-like consistency. 

Preventive. — Use only healthy stock, and probably a rota- 
tion of crops will be useful. 
Tomato. Blight (Cladosporium fulvum. Cooke).— Soft brown 
irregular spots appear on the under surface of the leaves, 
and the upper surface becomes spotted with yellow. The 
leaves finally shrivel. Most serious in greenhouses. 

Preventive. — In houses, keep the temperature as even as 
possible. In particular, avoid sudden changes. 

Remedy. — Bordeaux mixture or ammoniacal carbonate of 
copper sprayed on the plants every week or ten days. 
Rot (Macrosporium tomato). — The rotting of the nearly grown 
or ripe fruit. 

Preventive. — The small cherry and plum tomatoes are not 
attacked, and the old-fashioned angular sorts are compara- 
tively free. Training the vines so as to give the fruit plenty 
of light and air is usually useful. Heavy applications of 
fresh stable-manure appear to augment the injury. Burn 
all infested vines and fruits in the autumn. 

Remedy. — Spray with Bordeaux mixture. 

The bacterial potato-blight or rot also attacks tomatoes. 
See under Potato. 
Verbena. Rust (Oidium erysiplwides) . — A rust which appears on 
the leaves, eventually destroying the plants. 

Preventives. — Start with perfectly healthy and vigorous 
stock, and give good culture. In tho house, endeavor to 
avoid drafts, but give plenty of air on bright days. 



6o The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Verbena (Rust), continued. 

Remedy. — Sulphide of potassium sprayed upon the plants 
every few days. 

Violet. Violet Disease or Rust (Peronospora Violaz, DeBary ?). 
— Appears on the leaves as small rounded black or brown 
spots, causing the leaf finally to wither and die. 

Preventives. — It is supposed that any neglect or improper 
handling renders the plants more liable to the disease. Burn 
all infested plants, and do not use the same soil again for 
violets. Sprays of copper compounds. 

Watermelon. Anthracnose or Pod-Rust. — See under Bean. 




Inasmuch as the growth of one year determines the possibility of 
a crop in the succeeding year, it follows that judicious spraying, by 
keeping the foliage healthy, must bring larger crops; and this 
secondary result of spraying is usually as important as the immediate 
result. There are failures and discouragements in spraying, but 
they are fewer than in most other horticultural operatians even 
Hjough the practice is yet comparatively new. 



CHAPTER V. 



Injuries from Mice, Rabbits, Squirrels and 
Birds, with Preventives and Remedies. 

To prevent mice from girdling trees in winter. — In heeling-in 
young trees in the fall, do not use straw or litter, in which 
mice can make their nests. In orchards, see that tall grass, 
corn-husks, or other dry material does not gather about the 
trees in fall. If danger from mice is apprehended, tramp 
the first snow firmly about the trees, in order to compact the 
grass and litter so that mice cannot find shelter. Where the 
paper-birch grows, it will be found a good plan to place sec- 
tions of birch-bark from limbs or small trunks about the 
base of the tree. These sections roll up tightly about the 
tree, and yet expand so readily with the growth of the tree 
that they may be allowed to remain. Tie thin strips of wood, 
as laths or shingles, about the tree. 

Washes to protect trees from mice. — Wash the trees with some 
persistent substance in which is placed Paris green. May- 
nard finds the following substances useful for holding the 
poison: Portland cement of the consistency of common 
paint ; Portland cement 10 parts and gas-tar 1 part ; Portland 
cement 10 parts and asphaltum 1 part ; Portland cement 10 
parts and Morrill's tree-ink 1 part. 

Lime-wash, to which is added a little sulphur, tobacco-de- 
coction, and soap-suds. 

Carbonate of baryta for rats and mice.— Sugar and oatmeal or 
wheat flour, of each 6 ozs. ; carbonate of baryta, ^ lb. ; oil 
of anise-seed, enough to give the mixture a pretty strong odor. 

Tartar emetic fos rats and mice. — Tartar emetic, 1 part, oatmeal- 
or flour, 4 parts ; beef or mutton suet enough to make all 
into a paste. 

(6!) 



62 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Camphor for rats and mice. — Mix a few pieces of camphor with 

vegetable seeds, to preserve them. 
French paste for rats and mice.— Oatmeal or wheat flour. 3 lb. ; 
powdered indigo, % oz. ; finely powdered white arsenic. 4 
ozs. ; oil of anise-seed, drachni. Mix, and add of melted 
beef suet or mutton tallow 2)4 lbs., and work the whole up 
into a paste. 

Wash for keeping rabbits, sheep and mice away from trees. — 

Fresh lime, slaked with soft water (old soap-suds are best) ; 
make the wash the thickness of fence or house wash. When 
1 peck of lime is used, add when hot gallon crude carbolic 
acid, 3^ gallon gas-tar and 4 pounds of sulphur. Stir well. 
For summer wash leave gas-tar out, and add in place of it 1 
gallon of soft soap. To keep rabbits and sheep from gird- 
ling, wash late in fall, or about the time of frost, as high as 
one can reach. 
To remedy the injury done by mice and rabbits. — 

1. Pare and clean the wound, and cover it thickly with 
fresh cow-dung, or soft clay, and bind it up thoroughly with 
a cloth. Grafting-wax bound on is also good. Complete 
girdling, when done late in spring — when settled weather is 
approaching — can be remedied in this manner. 

2. Insert long scions over the wound, by paring them thin 
on both ends and placing one end under the bark on the upper 
edge of the wound and the other under the bark on the lower 
edge. Wax thoroughly the points of union, and tie a cloth 
band about the trees over both extremities of the scions. 

Blood for rabbits. — Blood smeared upon trees, as high up as rab- 
bits can reach, will keep them away. 

To drive rabbits from orchards. — Dip rags in melted sulphur and 
then secure them to sticks which are stuck promiscuously 
through the orchard. 

It should be an imperative rule with all orchardists not to 
allow brush heaps or piles of poles and rails to remain upon 
their premises if rabbits are troublesome in the neighbor- 
hood, for it is in such places that the animals live. 

Wash to protect trees from rabbits. — Fresh cow-dung. 1 peck; 
quick-lime, % peck; flowers of sulphur. % pound: lamp- 
black. % pound. Mix the whole into a thick paint with urine 
and soap-suds. 



Injuries fro?n Mice, Rabbits, Etc. 63 



California rabbit-wash.— Commercial aloes. 1 pound to 4 gallons 
of water, both, sprinkled on leaves and painted on the bark, 
gives a bitter taste, which repels rabits. 

California rabbit-poisons. — 

1. Pieces of watermelon, eanteloupe. or other vegetables 
of which they are fond, may be poisoned with strychnine and 
then scattered around the orchard. 

2. To 100 pounds of wheat take 9 gallons of water and 1 
pound of phosphorus. 1 pound of sugar, and 1 ounce oil of 
rhodium. Heat the water to boiling point and let it stand 
all night. Xext morning stir in flour sufficient to make a sort 
of paste. Scatter it about the place. 

3. Another preparation is J£ teaspoonful of powdered 
strychnine. 2 teaspoonfuls of fine salt, and 4 of granulated 
sugar. Put all in a tin box and shake well. Pour in small 
heaps on a board. It hardens into a solid mass. Rabbits 
lick it for the salt, and the sugar disguises the poison. 

Sulphnr for rabbits. — Equal proportions of sulphur, soot and 
lime, made into a thick paint with cow manure. Smear 
upon the trees. 

Cow-mannre for rabbits. — A mixture of lime, water and cow- 
manure, made strong, forms an excellent anti-rabbit com- 
position. 

Asafoetida for rabbits. — A teaspoonful of tincture of asafcetida 
in }< pailful of liquid clay, mud, or muck of any kind. 
Apply with a brush to the stem and branches of young trees. 
Two or three applications during winter. 

California ground-squirrel remedies. — Take 5 quarts of clean 
wheat ; scald with water ; drain. Take % cup of white sugar, 
dissolve with sufficient water to make a syrup : add 1 ounce 
powdered strychnine, stir thoroughly until a thin paste is 
formed. Pour this on the damp wheat. Stir thoroughly for 
at least 15 minutes. Add 1 pint powdered sugar, stir; add 
5 to 10 drops of rhodium and 5 to 10 drops of oil of anise-seed. 
Place a few grains in each squirrel-hole, putting it as far in 
as possible. 

Bisulphide of carbon is also largely used. A small quan- 
tity is poured into the burrow, and the hole is immediately 
closed securely with dirt. 



64 The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



California ground-squirrel remedies, continued. 

Tying newspapers about trees in such manner as to allow 
the upper part of the paper to project loosely a few inches, 
frightens the squirrels away. 

Poison for English sparrows. — Dissolve arseniate of soda in warm 
water at the rate of 1 ounce to 1 pint; pour this upon as 
much wheat as it will cover (in a vessel which can be closed 
so as to prevent evaporation) , and allow it to soak for at least 
24 hours. Dry the wheat so prepared, and it. is ready for use. 
It should be distributed in winter in places where the spar- 
rows congregate. 

Bird-poisons. — 

1. Place a shallow box on the end of a pole and put it 4 or 
5 feet from the ground to keep the poison out of the way of 
domestic fowls. In the box sprinkle corn-meal and a very 
little strychnine, which mixture the birds eat. It will not 
hurt dogs or cats to eat the dead bird for the reason that 
there is not enough poison absorbed by the bird. (Califor- 
nian) . 

2. Put the strychnine in pieces of apples and stick them 
on the ends of limbs of the trees. (Calif ornian.) 

To protect fruits from birds. — One of the best devices is mosquito- 
bar spread over the bushes or trees. For bush-fruits and 
and small trees the expense is not great. 

Have a taxidermist mount several hawks, and place them 
in natural positions in the trees or vines. 

To protect newly planted seeds. Coat the seeds with red lead, 
by moistening the seeds slightly and stirring in red lead 
until all the seeds are thoroughly coated. Let the seeds 
dry for two or three hours before sowing. 

To protect planted corn from crows. — Dip the kernels in coal-tar 
and then dust them with plaster. 

❖ * * * 

The father of humankind himself ordains 

The husbandman should tread no path of flowers, 

Ttut waken the earth with sleepless pains. 
So pricketh he these indolent hearts of ours. 

—Virgil. 



CHAPTER VI. 



Weeds and Moss. 

Weeds in general.— Weeds rarely trouble the good cultivator, 
particularly in vegetable gardening. Intensive methods of 
cultivation allow no weeds to appear. It is economy, both in 
labor and returns from the crop, to prevent weeds from ap- 
pearing, rather than to hoe or pull them out after they are 
partly grown and have done some damage. Frequent light 
stirrings of the soil with cultivator, harrow or rake are the 
cheapest mode of weed destruction. In the struggle with 
weeds it is well to consider the longevity of the various spe- 
cies. Annual weeds, those which naturally die after the 
season's growth, require no special treatment. Biennial 
species, those which die at the end of the second year, may 
be held in check by preventing them from seeding, as by 
mowing them when coming into flower. Examples of this 
class are the mullein, wild carrot and field or bull-thistle. 
Perennial species, those which live indefinitely, often require 
particular treatment. Some of the worst perennial species 
are Canada thistle, white or ox-eye daisy, toad-flax, live-for- 
ever, docks, and various grasses. Very frequent, persistent 
and thorough cultivation will destroy any of these. Culti- 
vation should be repeated even before the weeds recover 
sufficiently to take root again. Seeding down and mowing 
the weeds with the hay will destroy most weeds. In dry 
and sandy soils three or four thorough plowings during the 
season will destroy Canada thistles and other pests, particu- 
larly in dry years, but on richer and retentive soils greater 
thoroughness must be practiced. 

Weeds in lawns. — Weeds usually come up thickly in newly 
sown lawns. They are to be prevented by the use of com- 
mercial fertilizers or very clean manure and clean grass- 
r-5 (65) 



66 The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Weeds in Lawns, continued. 

seed. Clean june-grass, or blue-grass, seed is usually best. 
Grass-seed should be sown very thickly — 2 to 4 bu. to the 
acre— and annual weeds cannot persist long. Frequent 
mowings during summer will keep the weeds down, and 
most species will not survive the winter. In old lawns most 
perennial weeds can be kept down by frequent mowings with 
a good lawn-mower. Grass can stand more cutting than 
weeds. If mowing cannot be practiced often enough for this 
purpose, the weeds may be cut off below the surface with a 
long knife or spud, and the crowns are then readily pulled 
out. Or a little sulphuric acid — oil of vitrol — may be poured 
upon the crown of each plant. 
3. Weeds on Walks. —Walks should be so made that weeds can- 
not grow in them. This can be done by making a deep stone 
foundation and filling between the stones with cinders, coal 
ashes, or other similar material. But when weeds become 
established they can be destroyed by the following methods : 

Salt.— Hot brine (1 lb. of salt to 1 gal. of water), boiled 
in a kettle on wheels and dipped out into watering-pots. 
Brine is better than dry salt, because it leaves very little 
color upon the walk. 

Lime ad Sulphur. — 10 gals, of water, 20 lbs. of quick-lime 
and 2 lbs. flowers of sulphur are boiled in an iron vessel. 
After settling, the clear part is dipped off and used when 
needed. Care must be taken, as it will destroy edgings. 

Oil of Vitriol. — 1 part oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) to 30 
parts of water. Apply with a watering-pot. Choose a clear 
evening after a hot day. Keep clear of the edgings. The 
pot should be well painted, or a wooden pail should be used. 

Arsenite of Soda. — Place 1 lb. of powdered arsenic in 3 
gals, of cold water, boil and keep stirring; then add 7 gals, 
of cold water and 2 lbs. of crushed soda; stir well while 
boiling. Apply in dry weather. 

Carbolic Acid. — 1 oz. of carbolic acid to 1 gal. of water, 
sprinkled over the path from a common watering-pot. Will 
also destroy ants. 

Coal-tar Coating. — Mix coal-tar with gravel to the con- 
sistency of mortar; spread over the path 1 to 2 in. thick; 
cover this with gravel, then roll and add another thin coating 
of gravel to finish. 



Weeds and Moss. 



67 



4. Moss on 'Walks and Lawns, — In damp and shady places, and 
also in sterile places, moss may appear on walks and lawns. 
If the conditions cannot be improved, the following treat- 
ments may be tried : 

1 lb. oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) to 10 qts. of water. Wet 
the surface thoroughly, being careful not to sprinkle edgings 
or good sod. 

In early spring, while the ground is soft, work it back- 
wards and forwards, with a long-toothed rake, in order to 
bring the moss to the surface. Clear away the moss and 
leave the ground untouched for a fortnight. Early in March 
repeat the operation, and about the middle of that month 
apply a dressing of rich compost, which may consist of any 
old rubbish well decomposed, adding 1-6 of fresh lime. Mix 
with compost a few days before using. Ccver the ground 
with the compost at the rate of 200 barrow-loads per acre, 
passing it through a %in. sieve, to save the trouble of roll- 
ing. Rake it evenly over the surface with a wooden rake, 
and when dry seed down. An English method. 

5. Moss on Trees. — Moss on fruit-trees is usually an indication of 
lack of vigor. Cultivate and prune. Wash the trees with 
soap or lye washes. Scrape off the bark, exercising care not 
to expose the '-quick." or the tender inner bark. A good 
scraper is made of a small and much-worn hoe with the 
handle cut to about two feet long. 



/ went by the field of the slothful, and by the vineyard of the man 
void of understanding; andlo.it was all grown over with thorns y 
and nettles covered the face thereof, and the stone wall thereof was 
broken down. — Solomon. 




CHAPTER VII. 



Waxes for Grafting and for Wounds. 

1. Common Resin and Beeswax Waxes.— 

1. Reliable Wax. — Resin, 4 parts by weight, beeswax, 2 
parts, tallow, 1 part. Melt together and pour into a pail of 
cold water. Then grease the hands and pull the wax until 
it is nearly white. One of the best waxes. 

2. Resin, 4 lbs. ; beeswax, 1 lb. ; tallow, 1 lb. 

3. Resin, 6 lbs. ; beeswax, 2 lbs. ; linseed oil, 1 pt. 

4. 6 lbs. resin, 1 lb. beeswax and 1 pt. linseed oil; apply 
hot with a brush, one-eighth of an inch thick oyer all the 
joints. 

5. For Warm Weather. — 4 lbs. of resin, 1 lb. of bees- 
wax, and from half to a pint of raw linseed oil ; melt all to- 
gether gradually, and turn into water and pull. The linseed 
oil should be entirely free from cotton-seed oil. 

6. Resin, 6 parts ; beeswax, 1 part ; tallow, 1 part. To be 
used warm, in the house. 

7. Resin, 4 or fiye parts ; beeswax, \% to 2 parts ; lin- 
seed oil, 1 to 1% parts. For outdoor work. 

2. Alcoholic Waxes.— 

8. Lefort's Liquid Grafting Wax, or Alcoholic Plas- 
tic. — Best white resin, 1 lb. ; beef tallow, 1 oz. ; remoye 
from the fire and add 8 ozs. of alcohol. Keep in closed bottles 
or cans. 

9. Alcoholic Plastic with Beeswax. Melt 6 parts 
white resin with 1 part beeswax ; remove from stoye and par- 
tially cool by stirring, then add gradually — with continued 
stirring — enough alcohol to make the mixture, when cool, of 
the consistency of porridge. In the temperature of the 

68 



Waxes for Grafting and for Wounds. 69 



Alcoholic Waxes (Alcoholic Plastic with Beeswax), continued. 

grafting-room it will remain sufficiently plastic to permit 
applying to the cut surfaces with the finger. 

10. Alcoholic Plastic with Turpentine.— Best white 
resin, 1 lb.; beef tallow, 1 oz. ; turpentine. 1 teaspoonful; 
add enough alcohol (13 to 15 fluid ozs. of 95 per cent, alcohol) 
to make the wax of the consistency of honey. Or. less alco- 
hol inay be added if the wax is to be used with the fingers. 

3. French and Pitch Waxes.— 

11. Common French. —Pitch, % lb. ; beeswax. J£ lb. ; 
cow-dung. 1 lb. Boil together, melt and apply with a brush. 

12. Common French Bandage Wax. — Equal parts of 
beeswax, turpentine and resin. While warm spread on 
strips of coarse cotton or strong paper. 

13. 'Grafting Clay.— y & cow-dung, free from straw, and 
% clay, or clayey loam, with a little hair, like that used in 
plaster, to prevent its cracking. Beat and temper it for two 
or three days until it is thoroughly incorporated. When 
used it should be of such a consistency as to be easily put on 
and shaped with the hands. 

14. 2 lbs. 12 ozs. of resin and 1 lb. 11 ozs. of Burgundy 
pitch. At the same time, melt 9 ozs. of tallow ; pour the 
latter into the former, while both are hot, and stir the mix- 
ture thoroughly. Then add 18 ozs. of red ochre, dropping it 

' in gradually and stirring the mixture at the same time. 

15. Black pitch, 2S parts ; Burgundy pitch, 28 parts ; bees- 
wax, 16 parts ; grease, 14 parts ; yellow ochre, 14 parts. 

16. Black pitch, 28 lbs. ; Burgundy pitch, 28 lbs. : yellow 
wax, 16 lbs. ; suet or tallow, 14 lbs. ; sifted ashes, 14 lbs- 
W"hen used, warm sufficiently to make it liquid. 

17. Melt together \% of clear resin and % lb. of white 
pitch. At the same time melt % lb. of tallow. Pour the 
melted tallow into the first mixture, and. stir vigorously. 
Then, before the stuff cools, add, slowly stirring meantime, 
3^ lb. of Venetian red. This may be used warm or cold. 

4. Waxed String and Bandage.— 

18. Waxed String for Root-grafting. — Into a kettle of 
melted wax place balls of No. 18 knitting-cotton. Turn the 
balls frequently, and in five minutes they will be thoroughly 
saturated, when they are dried and put away for future use. 



7<d The Horticulturist } s Rule-Book. 



Waxed String and Bandage, continued. 

This material is strong enough, and at the same*time breaks 
so easily as not to injure the hands. Any of the resin and 
beeswax waxes may be used. When the string is used it 
should be warm enough to stick without tying. 

19. Waxed Cloth. — Old calico or thin muslin is rolled on 
a stick and placed in melted wax. "When saturated it is al- 
lowed to cool by being unrolled on a bench. It is then cut in 
strips to suit. 

5. Waxes for Wonnds. — 

20. Any of the more adhesive grafting-waxes are excel- 
lent for dressing wounds, although most of them cleave off 
after the first year. Stiff and ochreous paints are also good. 

21. Coal-tar. — Apply a coating of coal-tar to the wound, 
which has first been pared and smoothed. If the wound 
contains a hole, plug it with seasoned wood. 

22. Hoskins' Wax. — Boil pine-tar slowly for three or four 
hours ; add % lb. of beeswax to a quart of the tar. Have 
ready some dry and finely sifted clay, and when the mixture 
of tar and wax is partly cold, stir into the above-named 
quantity about 12 ozs. of the clay; continue the stirring 
until the mixture is so stiff, and so nearly cool, that the clay 
will not settle. This is soft enough in mild weather to be 
easily applied with a knife or spatula. 

23. Sch^efell's Healing-Paint. — Boil linseed oil (free 
from cotton-seed oil) one hour, with an oz. of litharge to each 
pt. of oil ; then stir in sifted wood-ashes until the paint is of 
the proper consistency. Pare the bark until smooth, as the 
fuzzy edge left by the saw will cause it to die back. Paint 
the wound over in dry weather, and if the wound is very 
large, cover with a gunny-sack. 

24. Tar for Bleeding in Vines. —Add to tar about 3 or 4 
times its weight of powdered slate or some similar substance. 

25. Hot Iron for Bleeding in Tines. — Apply a hot iron 
to the bare surface until it is charred, and then rub into the 
charred surface a paste made of newly-burnt lime and grease. 

26. — Collodion for Bleeding in Vines. — In some extreme 
cases 2 or 3 coats will be needed, in which case allow the 
collodion to form a film before applying another coat. Phar- 
maceutical collodion is better than photographic. 



CHAPTER VIII. 



Cements, Mortars, Paints and Glues. 

Cement and Mortar. — 

Cements for Iron. — 1. Sal ammoniac. 2 ozs. : sulphur, 
1 oz. : clean iron-borings or filings reduced to powder, 12 lbs. ; 
water enough to form a thin paste. 

2. Sal ammoniac. 2 ozs. ; iron-filings, 8 lbs. : sufficient 
water. 

3. 1 or 2 parts of sal ammoniac to 100 of iron filings. 
When the work is required to set quickly, increase the sal 
ammoniac slightly and add a small amount of sulphur. 

4. Iron-filings, 4 lbs.; pipe-clay, 2 lbs.; powdered pot- 
sherds. 11 lbs. : make into a paste with moderately strong 
brine. 

5. Equal parts of red and white lead, mixed into a paste 
with boiled linseed oil. Used for making metallic joints of 
all kinds. 

6. To 4 or 5 parts of clay, thoroughly dried and pulverized, 
add 2 parts of iron-filings, free from oxide. 1 part of peroxide 
of manganese. of sea salt and % of borax ; mix well, and 
reduce to a thick paste with water. Use immediately. Ex- 
pose to warmth, gradually increasing almost to white heat. 

7. Sifted coal-ashes. 2 parts, and common salt 1 part. Add 
water enough to make a paste and apply at once. This is 
also good for stoves and boilers, as it stands heat. 

Boiler Cements. — 1. Chalk. 60 parts : lime and salt, of 
each. 20 parts; sharp sand. 10 parts; blue or red clay and 
clean iron-filings, of each. 5 parts. Grind together and cal- 
cine or heat. 

2. Powdered clay. 6 lbs. ; iron-filings. 1 lb. Make into a 
paste with linseed oil. 

(7i) 



72 The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Cement and Mortar (Boiler Cement), continued. 

3. Powdered litharge, 2 parts ; silver sand and slaked 
lime, of each, 1 part ; boiled oil enough to form a paste. 

These cements are used for stopping leaks and cracks in 
boilers, iron pipes, stoves, etc. They should be applied as 
soon as made. 

Tar Cement. — Coal-tar, 1 part ; powdered slate (slate 
flour) , 3 or 4 parts ; mix by stirring until thoroughly incor- 
porated. Very useful for mending watering-pots, barrels, 
leaky sash, etc. It remains somewhat elastic. It does not 
adhere to greasy surfaces. It will keep for a long time be- 
fore using. 

Copper Cement. — Beef blood thickened with sufficient 
finely powdered quick-lime to make it into a paste is used to 
secure the edges and rivets of copper boilers, kettles, etc. 
Use immediately. 

Fireproof or Stone Cement.— Fine river sand, 20 parts; 
litharge, 2 parts ; quick-lime, 1 part ; linseed oil enough 
to form a thick paste. Used for walls and broken stone- 
work. 

Earthenware Cement. — Grated cheese, 2 parts ; pow- 
dered quick-lime, 1 part ; fresh white of egg enough to form 
a paste. Use as soon as possible. 

For fine earthenware, liquid glue may be used. 

Cement eor Glass. — Methylated spirit sufficient to render 
liquid a half dozen pieces of gum-mastic the size of a large 
pea ; in another bottle dissolve the same quantity of isin- 
glass, which has been soaked in water and allowed to get 
surface dry, in 2 oz. of methylated spirits ; when the first is 
dissolved add 2 pieces of either gum-galbanum or gum-am- 
moniac ; apply gentle heat and stir ; add the solution of isin- 
glass, heat again and stir. Keep in a tightly stoppered 
bottle, and when used set in boiling water. 

Sealing-Cements. — 1. Beeswax, 1 lb. ; resin, 5 lbs. Stir in 
sufficient red ochre and Brunswick green, or lamp-black, to 
give the desired color. 

2. Black pitch, 6 lbs. ; ivory-black and whiting, of each, 
1 lb. Less attractive than the former. 

These are used for sealing up bottles, barrels, etc. 



Cements, Mortars, Paints and Glues. 73 



Cement and Mortar, continued. 

Mortar for Heavy Rubble-Work or Brick-Work. — 
1 part of slaked lime, 2 parts of sand and X part of black- 
smith's ashes ; for brick-work, 1 part of lime, 1 of sand and 

1 of blacksmith's ashes. 

Approximate Estimates of Mason - Work. — ?>% barrels 
of lime are required to cover 100 square yards plastering, 
two coats. 

2 barrels of lime will cover 100 square yards plastering, 
one coat. 

1J£ bushels of hair are needed for 100 square yards plas- 
tering. 

1J£ yards good sand are required for 100 square yards of 
plastering. 

X barrel of plaster (stucco) will hard-finish 100 square 
yards plastering. 

1 barrel of best lime will lay 1,000 bricks. 

2 barrels of lime will lay one cord rubble-stone. 

J£ barrel of lime will lay 1 perch rubble-stone. (Estimat- 
ing % cord to perch.) 

To every barrel of lime estimate about %-yard of good 
sand for plastering and brick-work. 
2. Concrete, etc,, for Floors, Borders and Walks.— 

Grout Floor. — 1. To secure a good grout or cement floor, 
make a good foundation of small stones or brickbats, and 
cover three or four inches thick with a thin mortar, made of 

2 parts sharp sand and 1 part water-lime. 

2. Fresh powdered lime, 2 parts ; Portland cement, 1 part ; 
gravel, broken stone, or brick, 6 parts. Mix with water to 
a liquid consistency, and let it be thrown forcibly , or dropped 
into its position. It should be well beaten or rammed to 
render it solid. 

3. Equal parts of gravel, well screened, and clean river or 
pit sand. With 5 parts of sand and gravel, mix 1 part of 
Portland cement. Mix with water and apply 1 in. thick. 

For Garden Borders. — Nine parts gravel and 1 part un- 
slaked lime ; slake the lime and cover it with gravel, then 
add water sufficient to make a very thin mortar. Apply 3 
in. deep, allow it to stiffen a little, then roll. Finish with an 
inch thick of 1 part lime and 3 parts gravel. Apply soft. 



74 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Concrete, etc., for Floors, Borders and Walks, continued. 

For Walks. — Walks should always have a well-made 
foundation of stones or brickbats to give hardness and in 
sure drainage. The top of the walk may be made of gravel, 
sifted coal-ashes, cinders from foundries, furnaces, etc. If 
gravel is used, care should be exercised to avoid the round 
or washed gravel, particularly that lying in the beds of 
streams, for it will not pack. One part of clean clay to 4 or 
5 of gravel makes a good walk. Or the following may be 
used: 

1. One part mineral pitch, 1 part resin, 7 parts chalk and 
2 parts coarse sand. Boil together, and lay it while in a hot 
state, adding a little gravel. 

2. Boil for a short time 18 parts of mineral pitch and 18 
parts of resin in an iron kettle ; then add 60 parts of coarse 
sand ; mix well, and lay on the path to the thickness of 1 in. ; 
then sift a little fine gravel over it. and beat it down before 
the cement sets. 

3. Put down a coat of tar and sift some road-sand or coal- 
ashes over it very thickly. When this is dry repeat the oper- 
ation until you have 4 coats of tar and as many of coal-ashes 
or road-sand. 

4. Two parts of thoroughly dried sand, 1 part cinders, 
thoroughly dried. Mix together ; then spread the sand and 
cinders on the ground and make a hole in the center, into 
which pour boiling hot tar and mix into a stiff paste ; then 
spread on the walk, beat and roll. 

5. Two parts lime rubbish and 1 part coal-ashes, both 
A'ery dry and finely sifted ; in the middle of the heap make 
a hole; into this pour boiling hot coal-tar; mix to a stiff 
mortar and spread on the ground 2 or 3 inches thick. The 
ground should be dry and beaten well. Cover with coarse 
sand; when cold, roll well. 

3. Paints and Protective Compounds.— 

Home-made Washes for Fences and Out-buildings may 
be made by various combinations of lime and grease. The 
following are good formulas : 

1. Slake fresh quick-lime in water, and thin it to a paste 
or paint with skim-milk. The addition of 2 or 3 handfuls of 
salt to a pail of the wash is beneficial 



Cements, Mortars, Paints and Glues. 75 



Paints and Protective Compounds, continued. 

2. 2 qts. skim-milk, 8 ozs. of fresh slaked lime, 6 ozs. of 
boiled linseed oil and 2 oz. of white pitch, dissolved in the 
oil by a gentle heat. The lime must be slaked in cold water 
and dried in the air until it falls into a fine powder ; then 
mix with J£ part of the milk, adding the mixed oil and pitch 
by degrees ; add the remainder of the milk. Lastly, add 3 
lbs. of the best whiting and mix the whole thoroughly. 

3. Slake % bu. of lime in boiling water, keeping it covered ; 
strain and add brine made by dissolving 1 pk. of salt in 
warm water, and 3 lbs. rice flour, then boil to a paste; add 
%lb. whiting and 1 lb. of glue dissolved in warm water. 
Mix and let stand for a few days before using. 

Fire-proof Paint. — In a covered vessel slake the best 
quick-lime, then add a mixture of skim-milk and water, and 
mix to the consistency of cream ; then add 20 lbs. of alum, 
15 lbs. of potash and 1 bu. of salt to every 100 gals, of the 
liquid. If white paint is desired, add to the above 6 lbs. of 
plaster of Paris. 

For Damp Walls. — 1. %Tb. of hard soap to 1 gal. of 
water. Lay over the bricks steadily and carefully with a 
flat brush, so as not to form a froth or lather on the surface. 
After 24 hrs. mix }{lb. of alum with 4 gals, of water ; let it 
stand 24 hrs., and then apply it in the same manner over the 
coating of soap. Apply in dry weather. 

2. 1% lhs. resin, 1 lb. tallow, 1 qt. linseed oil. Melt to- 
gether and apply hot, two coats. 

Paint for Shading Greenhouse Roofs. — Make a paint of 
ordinary consistency of white lead and naphtha. It is re- 
moved from the glass by the use of a scrubbing-brush. Make 
it thin or it is hard to remove. 

Ordinary lime whitewash is good for temporary use. If 
salt is added, it adheres better. 

Water-proofing Paints— For leather.— 1. % lb. of shel- 
lac, broken into small pieces in a quart bottle ; cover with 
methylated spirit, cork it tight, put it on a shelf in a warm 
place, and shake it well several times a day; then add a 
piece of camphor as large as a hen's egg; shake again and 
add 1 oz. of lamp-black. Apply with a small paint-brush. 

2. Put into an earthen jar %Vo. of beeswax, >2Pt- of 
neatsfoot oil, 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of lamp-black, and a 



76 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Paint and Protective Compounds, continued. 

piece of camphor as large as a hen's egg. Melt over a slow 
fire. Have both grease and leather warm and apply with a 
brush. 

3. 1 pt. of linseed oil, mutton suet, 6 ozs. of clean 

beeswax and 4 ozs. of resin ; melt and mix well. Use while 
warm with a brush on new boots or shoes. 

For Cloth for Pits and Frames.— Old pale linseed oil, 

3 pts. ; sugar of lead (acetate of lead), 1 oz. ; white resin, 

4 ozs. Grind the acetate with a little of the oil, then add the 
rest and the resin. Use an iron kettle over a gentle fire. 
Apply with a brush, hot. 

For Paper. — Dissolve \%Vos. of white soap in 1 qt. of 
water; in another qt. of water dissolve lj^ozs. of gum 
arabic and 5 ozs. of glue. Mix the two liquids, warm them 
and soak the paper in it and pass through rollers, or simply 
hang it up to dry. 

To Prevent Metals from Rusting.— Melt together 3 
parts of lard and 1 part of powdered resin. A very thin 
coating applied with a brush will keep stoves and grates 
from rusting during summer, even in damp situations. A 
little black lead can be mixedowith the lard. Does well on 
nearly all metals. 

To Prevent Rusting of Nails, Hinges, Etc.— 1 pt. of 
linseed oil, 2 ozs. black lead ; mix together. Heat nails red- 
hot and dip them in. 

Amount of Paint Required for a Given Surface.— It is 
impossible to give a rule that will apply in all cases, as the 
amount varies with the kind and thickness of the paint, the 
kind of wood or other material to which it is applied, the age 
of the surface, etc. The following is an approximate rule : 
Divide the number of square feet of surface by 200. The re- 
sult will be the number of gallons of liquid paint required 
to give two coats ; or divide by 18 and the result will be the 
number of pounds of pure ground white-lead required to 
give three coats. 
4. Glues. — 

Liquid Glue. — 1. Dissolve 2 lbs. of best pale glue in 1 qt. 
of water in a covered vessel, placed in a hot water bath ; 
when cold, add to it 7 ozs. of commercial nitric acid. When 
cold put in bottles. 



Cements, Mortars, Paints and Glues. 



77 



Glues (Liquid Glue), continued. 

2. Finest pale orange shellac, broken small, 4 ozs. ; 
methylated spirit, 3 oz. ; put in a warm place in a closely 
corked bottle until dissolved. Should have the consistency 
of molasses. Or, borax 1 oz., water, %pt., shellac as be- 
fore ; boil in a closely covered kettle until dissolved ; then 
evaporate until nearly as thick as molasses. 

Flower Gum. — Very fine white shellac mixed with 
methylated spirit in a stone jar ; shake well for y 2 an hour 
and place by a fire, and shake it frequently the first day. 
Keep in a cool place. Leave the camel 's-hair brush in the 
gum. Never fill the brush too full and gum the petals 
close to the tube. 

Gum for Labels and Specimens. — 1. Two parts of gum 
arabic. 1 part of brown sugar; dissolve in water to the 
consistency of cream. 

2. Five parts of best glue soaked in 18 to 20 parts of water 
for a day, and to the liquid add 9 parts of sugar candy and 
3 parts of gum arabic. 

3. Good flour and glue, to which add linseed-oil, varnish 
and turpentine, 3^oz. each to the lb. Good when labels are 
liable to get damp. 



The increased love of home and the garden, in the older states, 
is a matter of every-day remark ; and it is not a little curious that 
just in proportion to the intelligence and settled character of its 
population, is the amount of interest manifested in horticulture. — 
a. J. Downing. 




CHAPTER IX. 



Seed Tables. 

i. Quantity of Seed required to Sow an Acre. 

Asparagus 4 or 5 lbs., or 1 oz. for 50 ft. of drill. 

Beans, Dwarf in drills \% bu. 

" Pole " 10 to 12qts. 

Beet " 5 to 6 lbs. 

Buckwheat " 1 bu. 

Cabbage in beds to transplant . . . . % lb. 

Carrot in drills 3 to 4 lbs. 

Cauliflower 1 oz. of seed for 1,000 plants . 

Celery 1 oz. for 2,000 plants .... 

Corn in hills 8 to 10 qts. 

Cucumber " .... 2 lbs. 

Cress, Water in drills 2 to 3 lbs. 

" Upland " 2 to 3 lbs. 

Egg-plant 1 oz. of seed for 1,000 plants . 

Kale, or Sprouts 3 to 4 lbs. 

Lettuce . loz. of seed for 1,000 plants . 

Melon, Musk in hills 2 to 3 lbs. 

" Water " 4 to 5 lbs. 

Mustard broadcast K DU - 

Onion in drills 5 to 6 lbs. 

" Seed for Sets . . " 30 lbs. 

" Sets " 6tol2bu. 

Parsnip " 4 to 6 lbs. 

Peas " , 1 to2bu. 

Potato (cut-tubers) 7 bu. 

Pumpkin in hills 4 to 5 lbs. 



(78) 



Seed Tables. 



79 



Quantity of Seed required to Sow an Acre, continued, 

Radish in drills 8 to 10 lbs. 

Sage . " . I . 8 to 10 lbs. 

Salsify " 8 to 10 lbs. 

Spinage t£ 10 to 12 lbs. 

Squash, Bush in hills 4 to 6 lbs. 

" Running ... " 3 to 4 lbs. 

Tomato to transplant % lb. 

Turnip in drills 1 to 2 lbs. 

" broadcast 3 to 4 lbs. 

Grass (mixed lawn) 2 to 4 bu. 



a. Weight and Size of Garden Seeds. 

Adapted from Vilmorin' s Tables. 

Weight of a qt. of Number of seeds 

seeds in ozs. in I grain. 





5 825 


11.01 




11 65 


12.96 


Asparagus Bean (Dolichus sesqui 








89 90 


32.40 


Balm 


?,1 35 


129.60 


Basil 


20 58 


51.84 


Bean . . 


24 26 to 33.01 4.86 to 5.18 


Beet 


9 71 


3.24 




18 74 


4.21 


Borecole 


27 18 


19.44 


Broccoli 


27. IS 


24.30 


Cabbaere . 


27 18 


19.44 


Caper 


17 86 


10.37 


Caraway 


16 34 


22.68 


Cardoon 


°4 46 


1.62 


Carrot with the spines 


9.32 


45.36 


" without the spines . . . 


13.98 


61.56 




30 29 


77.76 


Cauliflower 


87 IS 


24.30 




18 64 


162.00 


Chervil 


14 76 


29.16 


" Sweet-scented . . . . . 


9.71 


2.59 



8o 



The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Weight and Size of Garden Seeds, continued. 

Weight of a qt. of 



seeds, in ozs. 

Chervil, Turnip-rooted 20.97 

Chicory 15.54 

Chick-pea 30.29 

Coriander 12.43 

Corn-salad 10.87 

Cress, American 20.97 

" Common Garden . . . .28.35 
" Meadow (Cuckoo-flower) 22. 52 

11 Para 7.77 

" Water 22.52 

Cucumber. Common 19.42 

Globe 19.42 

Prickly-fruited 

Gherkin 21.36 

Snake (Cucumis flexu- 

osus) 17.48 

Dandelion 10.49 

Dill 11.65 

Egg-plant 19.42 

Endive 13.20 

Fennel, Common or Wild . . .17.48 

" Sweet 9.13 

Gumbo, see Okra 

Good King Henry 24.27 

Gourds, Fancy 17.48 

Hop 9.71 

Horehound 26.41 

Hyssop 22.33 

Kohlrabi 27.18 

Leek 21.36 

Lettuce 16.69 

Lovage 7.77 

Maize, or Indian Corn ..... 24.85 

Marjoram, Sweet 21.35 

" Winter 26.15 

Martynia 11.26 

Muskmelon 13.98 



Number of seeds 
in i grain. 
29.16 
45.36 
1.94 in 10 g. 
5.83 
64.80 
61.56 
29.16 
97.20 
220.32 
259.20 
2.14 
6.48 

8.42 

2.59 
77.76 to 97.20 
58.32 
16.20 
38.88 
20.09 

8.10 

27.86 
1.29 
12.96 
64.80 
55.08 
19.44 
25.92 
51.84 
19.44 
2.59 to 3. 24 in 10 g. 
259.20 
777.60 
1.29 
3.56 



Seed Tables. 



St 



Weight and Size of Garden Seeds, continued. 

Weight of a qt. of Number of seeds 

seeds in ozs. in i grain. 

Mustard, Black or Brown . . . 26.15 45.36 
Chinese Cabba g e - 

leaved 25.63 42.12 

White, or Salad . . . 29.12 12.96 

Nasturtium, Tall 13.20 4.54 to 5.18 in 10 g. 

Dwarf 23.30 9.7 in 10 g. 

Okra 24.08 9.7 to 11.66 in 10 g. 

Onion 19.42 16.20 

Orach 5.44 16.20 

Pea . . . 27.18 to 31.07 1.29 to 3.56 in 10 g. 

" Gray or Field 26.41 to 31.07 3.24 to 5.18 in 10 g. 

Peanut 15.53 1.29 to 1.94 in 10 g. 

Pepper 17.48 9.72 

Pumpkin 9.71 1.94 in 10 g. 

Purslane 23.69 162.00 

Radish 27.18 7.77 

Rampion 31.07 1620.00 

Rhubarb 3.10 to 4.66 3.24 

Rocket Salad 29.12 35.64 

Rosemary 15.54 58.32 

Rue . . . , 22.52 32.40 

Sage 21.36 16.20 

Salsify 8.93 6.48 

Savory, Summer 19.42 97.20 

Winter 16.69 162.00 

Scorzonera 10.09 5.83 

Scurvy-grass 23.30 97.20 to 116.64 

Sea-kale . 8.16 9.72 to 11.66 in 10 g. 

Spinage. Prickly-seeded . . . .14.56 5.83 

" Round-seeded . . . . 19. SO 7.13 

" New Zealand 8.67 6.48 to 7.77 in 10 g. 

Squash, Bush-scallop 16.69 6.48 

Strawberry 23.30 51.84 to 162.00 

" Blite (Blitum) . . . 31.07 324.00 

" Tomato (Physalis) . 25.24 64.80 

Sweet Cicely 9.71 2.59 

Tansy 11.65 453.60 

Thyme 26.41 388.80 



82 



The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Weight and Size of Garden Seeds, continued. 




Weight of a qt. of Number of seeds 




seeds in ozs. in 1 grain. 


Tomato 


. . 11.65 k 19.44 to 25.92 




Turnip 


. . 26.02 * 29.16 






. . 4.27 16.20 






. . 17.86 3.24 to 3.88 


in 10 g. 




. . 11.65 1.36 




Welsh. Onion, Common 


18.64 19.44 




" Early White. 


. . 22.91 32.40 










3. Number of Tree-Seeds in a Pound. 




FRUIT TREES. 








About. 






12.000 






1.000 






200 






15.000 


Plum 




600 






15.000 






200.000 


FOREST TREES. 






By count. 




. Jusrlans cinerea 


15 


Black Walnut 


. Jusrlans nigra 


25 


American Horse-Cliestnut . 


. ^Esculus glabra . . , . . 


36 


Hickory (Shell-Bark) 


. . Carva alba 


78 


American Sweet Chestnut . 


. Castanea vesca 


90 


Silver-Leaved Maple .... 


. Acer clascycarpum .... 


2,421 




. Gleditschia triacanthos . 


2,496 


Black Cherry 


. Prunus serotina 


4.311 


Black Ash 


Fraxinus sambucifolia . . 


5,629 






6.337 




. Acer platanoides 


7.231 




. Acer saccharinum .... 


7,488 


Barberry 


. Berberis vulgaris .... 


8,183 


Red Cedar 


Juniperus Virgmiana . . 


8,321 


Rock Elm 




8.352 




. Fraxinus Americana. . . 


9,858 



Seed Tables, 



83 



Number of Tree-Seeds in a Pound (Forest Trees), continued. 







By count. 


Osage Orange 


Maclura aurantiaca . 


. . 10,656 


Silver Fir , 


. . . Abies pectinata . . . 


12,000 


Box Elder 


. . Acer Negundo .... 


14,784 






19,776 






. . 20,161 


White Pine 




20,540 


Scarlet Maple 


. . . Acer rubrum .... 


22,464 


Green Ash 


. . Fraxinus yiridis . . . 


22,656 


Black Locust 




. . 28,992 


Red Elm 


. . Ulmus f ulva 


54,359 


American While Elm . . 


Ulmus Americana . . 


. . 92,352 


American Mountain Asa . 


. . Pyrns Americana . . . 


. 108.327 


White Birch 




. . 500,000 



4. Longevity of Garden Seeds. 

Adapted from l^ihnorin's tables. 

The number denotes that the seeds had not all lost their ger- 
minating power at the termination of the number of years re- 
corded. 

Average Extreme 
Years. Years. 



Angelica 1 or 2 3 

Anise 3 5 

Asparagus-Bean (Doliclujs scsquipedalis, L.) . . 3 8 

Balm 4 7 

Basil • . , 8 10+ 

Bean 3 8 

Beet 6 10+ 

Borage 8 10+ 

Borecole 5 10 

Broccoli . 5 10 

Cabbage . . . . , 5 10 

Caraway 3 4 

Cardoon 7 9 

Carrot, with the spines 4 or 5 10+ 

" without the spines 4 or 5 10+ 

Catmint 6 10+ 

Cauliflower 5 10 



84 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Longevity of Garden Seeds, continued. 






Average 


Extreme 




Years. 


Years. 






10 






6 




1 


1 




-1 


1 




Q 


10+ 






Q 
O 




a 



O 




K 


1 A 

1U 




Q 


pr 
O 




K 


y 


" Meadow (Cuckoo-flower) .... 




(?) 




e 


c 1 

74- 






y 






1 A 1 

10+ 


' ' Globe 


. . . 


(?) 






7+ 






1A I 

10+ 




O 


K 





Q 


er 







10 




1 A 


1 A 1 

10+ 




. . . 4 


7 






7 


Gumbo, see Okra. 










5 






10+ 


















Q 









in 




3 


9 


Lettuce, Common 


5 


9 


Lovage 


3 


4 




2 


4 




3 


7 




5 


7 




1 or 2 


(?) 


Muskmelon 


5 


10+ 



Seed Tables. 85 

Longevity of Garden Seeds, continued. 

Avkrage Extreme 
years. years. 

Mustard. Black or Brown 4 9 

" Chinese Cabbage-leaved 4 8 

White or Salad 4 10 

Nasturtium. Tall 5 5 

" Dwarf 5 8 

Okra 5 10+ 

Onion 2 7 

Orach 6 7 

Parsnip . . . - ■ 2 4 

Parsley 3 9 

Pea, Garden 3 8 

" Gray or Field 3 8 

Pepper 4 7 

Pumpkin 4 or 5 9 

Purslane 7 10 

Radish 5 10+ 

Rampion 5 10+ 

Rhubarb 3 8 

Rocket Salad 4 9 

Rosemary 4 (?) 

Rue 2 5 

Sage 3 7 

Salsify 2 8 

Savory, Summer 3 7 

" Winter 3 6 

Scorzonera 2 7 

Scurvy-grass 4 7 

Sea-Kale 1 7 

Spinage, Prickly-seeded .... 5 7 

" Round-seeded 5 7 

" New Zealand 5 8 

Squash, Bush-scallop 6 10+ 

Strawberry 3 6 

" Tomato (Physalis) S 10+ 

Sweet Cicely 1 1 

Tansy 2 4 

Thyme 3 7 

Tomato 4 9 



86 



The Horticulturist's Rule-Book. 



Longevity of Garden Seeds, continued. 












Average 


Extreme 








years. 


ytars. 










10+ 








1 


7 


Watermelon 






6 


10 








. . 10 


10+ 


Welsh Onion, Common 






2 or 3 


7 


" Early White 




3 


8 








. . 1 


6 


5. Average Time required for Garden Seeds to Gen 


Tiinate. 




Days. 






Days. 


Bean 


6-10 


Lettuce . 




6- 8 


Beet 


7-10 


Onion 




7-10 


Cabbage 


6-10 


Pea . . 




. 6-10 


Carrot 


. 12-18 


Parsnip , 




10-20 


Cauliflower 


6-10 


Pepper . 




9-13 


Celery 


10-20 






3- 6 


Corn 


5- 8 


Salsify . 




. 7-12 


Cucumber 


6-10 


Tomato . 




6-12 


Endive . . , 


5-10 


Turnip . 




. . 4- 8 



6. Proper Kinds and Quantities of Seeds for a Model En- 
glish Kitchen Garden of 1 1-4 Acres (Loudon). 

Peas, 30 qts. ; white cabbage of different kinds, 6 ozs. ; Savoy 
cabbage, V/i ozs. ; Brussels sprouts, 2 ozs.. cauliflower. 3 ozs. ; 
broccoli, 7 ozs. ; borecole, 2 ozs. ; red cabbage, 1 oz. ; kohl-rabi, 
1 oz. ; white turnip, 8 ozs. ; yellow turnip. 2 ozs. ; early pota- 
toes, 1 bu. ; carrots, 7 ozs. ; onions, 8 ozs. : broad beans, 6 qts. ; 
narrow beans, 3 qts. ; kidney beans, 3 qts. ; scarlet runner 
beans, 2 qts. ; celery, 3 ozs. ; Flanders spinach, 1 qt. ; summer 
spinach, 2 qts. ; Jerusalem artichoke, 1 pk. ; red beet, 4 ozs. ; 
parsnips, 1 ozs. ; leeks, 2 ozs. ; garlic, J^lb. ; shallots, 3 lbs. ; 
salsify, "%oz. ; scorzonera, ^oz. ; cos lettuce. 5 ozs. ; cabbage 
lettuce, 3 ozs. ; endive, 2 ozs. ; radish, 3 pts. ; cress, 1 pt. ; mus- 
tard, 1 qt. ; parsley, 2 ozs. 



CHAPTER X. 



Planting-Tables. 

i. Dates for Sowing or Setting Kitchen-Garden Vegetables In 
Different Latitudes. 

Lansing, Michigan. 

Average of 4 and 5 years. 
Bean, Bush May 16. 

" Pole May 30. 

Beet April 20. 

Broccoli May 10. 

Brussels Sprouts May 10. 

Cabbage, early, under glass March 15. 

Cabbage, late May 20.. 

Carrot May 7. 

Cauliflower, under glass March 15. 

Celery, under glass March 18. 

" in open ground May 20. 

Corn May 19. 

Cucumber - - - . . . May 23. 

Egg-Plant, under glass . March 15. 

Kale May 9. 

Kohlrabi May 9. 

Lettuce May 5. 

Melon May 30. 

Okra May 15. 

Onion April 17. 

Parsnips " May 7. 

Pepper, under glass March 16. 

Peas April 15. 

Potato . May 3. 

(87) 



88 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Dates for Sowing- or Setting Vegetables, continued. 



Pumpkin . . . . May 31. 

Radish April 26. 

Salsify May 7. 

Spinage April 10. 

Squash May 28. 

Tomato, under glass March 13. 

Turnip April 15. 

Boston. (Rawson.) 

Asparagus About the end of April. 

Bean, Bush About the first week in May. 

Bean, Pole ....... From about the middle of May to the 1st 

or June. 

Bean, Lima About the 1st of June. 

Beet About the middle of April. 

Borecole, or Kale . . . About the middle of April ; plant out in 
June. 

Brussels Sprouts ... In March or April in hotbed. 

Cabbage . Transplant the last week in April or the 

1st in May. 

Carrots Last of May or 1st of June. 

Cauliflower From the 1st of May until the 1st of 

July. 

Celery * * * The 1st week in April to the 2nd in July. 

Corn, Sweet About the 1st of May. 

Cucumber For 1st crop, about the middle of March. 

Egg-Plant About March 15th in hotbed. 

Endive June or July. 

Kohlrabi May or June. 

Okra About the 10th of May. 

Peas During the last of April up to the 1st of 

May. 

Pepper Put out of doors about the 1st of April. 

Radish From the 1st of April to the middle of 

June. 

Spinage About the 1st of September. 

Tomato About the 25th of May set plants out- 
doors. 

Turnips, for fall use . . Any time from July 1st to August 20th. 
Watermelon About the middle of May. 



Planting- Tables. 



8 9 



Dates for Sowing: or Setting: Vegetables, continued. 

New Yokk. (Henderson.) 

Plants to sow from the middle of Match to the end of April. Thermom- 
eter in the shade averaging 45 degrees. 

Beet. Cauliflower. Parsley. 

Carrot. Endive. Peas. 

Cress. Kale. Radish. 

Celery. Lettuce. Spinage. 

Cabbage. Onions. Turnip. 

Parsnip. 

From the middle of May to the middle of June. Thermometer in the 
shade averaging 60 degrees. 

Bean, Bush. Bean, Runner. Nasturtium. 

Bean, Cranberry. Corn. Sweet. Okra. 

Bean, Lima. Cucumber. Pumpkin. 

Bean, Pole. Melon, Musk. Squash. 

Bean, Scarlet. Melon, Water. Tomato. 

Georgia. (Oemler.) 

Asparagus . . . From December 1st to the middle of March. 

Bean, Bush . . . From the 1st to the middle of March. 

Beet Through November and December. 

Cabbage .... From the 1st of October to the 15th. Trans- 
plant about November 1st and later. 

Cauliflower . . . From May to September. 

Cucumber. . . . About March 1st to the 15th. 

Egg-Plant. ... To prick out, about the middle of January, 
otherwise ten or fifteen days later. 

Lettuce About the middle of September. 

Onion About January 1st. 

Pea About December 1st. 

Potato The 1st of February. 

Radish From Christmas to the last of February. 

Spinage From September 10th until October 15th. 

Squash About the last of February up to the middle of 

March. 

Sweet-Potato . . In coldfram.es, about the 1st of January. 

Tomato About January 1st. 

Watermelon . . About the 15th of March. 



go The Horticulturist** s Rule- Book. 

2. Tender and Hardy Vegetables. 

Vegetables injured by a slight frost, and which should therefore be 
planted only after the weather has settled 

All Beans. Egg-Plant. Pumpkin. 

Corn. All Melons. Squash. 

Cucumber. Okra. Sweet-Potato. 

Pepper. Tomato. 

Vegetables which, when properly handled, will endure a frost. 

Asparagus. Corn Salad. Parsley. 

Beet. Cress. Parsnip. 

Borecole. Endive. Pea. 

Broccoli. Horseradish. Radish. 

Brussels Sprouts. Kale. Rhubarb. 

Cabbage. Kohlrabi. Salsify. 

Carrot. Leek. Sea-Kale. 

Cauliflower. Lettuce. Spinage. 

Celery. All Onions. Turnip. 

3. Usual Distances Apart for Planting Fruits. 

Apples 30 to 40 feet each way 

" Dwarf 10 " " " 

Pears 20 " 30 " " " 

Dwarf 10 " 12 " " " 

Plums 16 " 20 " " " 

Peaches 16 " 20 " " " 

Cherries 16 " 25 " " " 

Apricots 16 " 20 " " " 

Nectarines 16 " 20 " 

Quinces 8 " 12 " • " " 

Grapes 8 " 12 " " " 

Currants 4x5 feet. 

Gooseberries 4x5 u 

Raspberries, Black 3x6" 

" Red 3X5" 

Blackberries 4x 7to6x8 feet. 

Cranberries 1 or 2 ft. apart each way. 

Strawberries 1 X 3 or 4 feet. 

Oranges and Lemons 25 to 30 feet each way. 

Pigs 20 " 25 " " " 



PI a 71 ti7ig -Tables. 



9i 



Usual Distances Apart for Planting: Fruits, continued. 

Mulberries 25 to 30 feet each way. 

Japanese PersinmioiiS 20 t: 25 " " " 

Loquats 15 " 25 " " 

Pecans 35 " 40 " " " 

Distances Recommended for Orange Trees in Cah/ornia. 

Dwarfs, as Tangerines 10 to 12 feet. 

Half -Dwarfs, as Washington Navel . . 24 <• 30 " 
Mediterranean Sweet, Maltese Blood, 



Valencia 24 " 30 " 

St. Michael 18 - 24 u 

Seedlings 30 " 40 " 

4. Usual Distances Apart for Pla nting Vegeta bles. 

Artichoke .... Rows 3 or 4 ft. apart, 2 to 3 ft. apart in the 
row. 

Asparagus Rows 3 to 4 ft. apart. 1 to 2 ft. apart in the 

row. 

Beans, Bush . . . . 1 ft. apart in rows 2 to 3 ft. apart, 

" Pole 3 to 4 ft. each way. 

Beet, early . . . . In drills 12 to 18 in. apast. 

" late In drills 2 to 3 ft. apart. 

Broccoli IX X 2>| ft. to 2 X 3 ft. 

Cabbage, early . . . 16 X 28 in. to 18 X 30 in. 

late. . . . 2 X 3 ft. to 2V 2 X ft. 

Carrot In drills 1 to 2 ft. apart. 

Cauliflower 2 X 2 ft. to 2 X 3 ft. 

Celery Rows 3 to 4 ft. apart, 6 to 9 in. in the row. 

Corn-Salad In drills 12 to 18 in. apart. 

Corn, Sweet .... Rows 3 to 3}4 ft. apart. 9 in. to 2 ft. in the 
row. 

Cress In drills 10 to 12 in. apart. 

Cucumber 4 to 5 ft. each way. 

Egg-Plant 3 X 3 ft. 

Endive 1 X 1 ft. to 1 X 1^ ft. 

Horse-radish ... . 1 X 2 or 3 ft. 

Kohlrabi 10 X 18 in. to 1 X 2 ft. 

Leek 6 in. X 1 or 1% ft. 

Lettuce 1 X tyi or 2 ft. 



92 The Horticulturist's Ride- Book. 

Usual Distances Apart for Planting: Vegetables, continued. 
Melons, Musk . . . 5 to 6 ft. each way. 

" Water . . 7 to 8 ft. each way. 

Mushroom 6 to 8 in. each way. 

Okra iy 2 X 2 or 3 ft. 

Onion In drills from 14 to 20 in. apart. 

Parsley In drills 1 or 2 ft. apart. 

Parsnip In drills, 18 in. to 3 ft. apart. 

Peas In drills ; early kinds, usually in double rows, 

6 to 9 in. apart ; late kinds, in single rows. 
2 to 3 ft. apart. 

Pepper 15 to IS in. X 2 to 2)4 ft. 

Potato 10 to IS in. X 2 1 .< to 3 ft. 

Pumpkin 8 to 10 ft. each way. 

Radish In drills, 10 to 18 in. apart. 

Rhubarb 2 to 4 ft. X 4 ft. 

Salsify In drills, iy 2 to 2 ft. apart. 

Sea-Kale 2 X 2 to 3 ft, 

Spinage In drills, 12 to IS in. apart. 

Squash, Bush . . . 3 to 4 ft. X 4 ft. 

" Late . . . . 6 to 8 ft. each way. 
Sweet-Potato. . . . 2 ft. X 3 to 4 ft. 

Tomato 4 ft. X 4 to 5 ft. 

Turnip In drills, 1% to ft. apart. 

5. Number of Plants Required to Set an Acre of Ground at 
Given Distances. 

Plants. Plants. 

1 in. X lin 6,272,640 2 in. X 2 " ... .1,568,160 

1 " X 2 " . . . .3.136.320 2 " X 3 " . . . .1,045,440 

1 " X 3 " . . . . 2,090,880 2 k ' X 4 " . . . 7S4,0S0 

1 " X 4 "... • 1,568,160 2 " X 5 "... . 627,264 

1 " X 5 *« . . . . 1.254,528 2 " X 6 "... . 522.720 

1 " X 6 "... . 1,045,440 2 " X 7 " . . . . 448.045 

1 " X 7 "... . 896,091 2 " X 8 " . . . . 392,040 

1 " X 8 "... . 784.080 2 " X 9 " . . - - 34S,480 

1 " X 9 "... . 696.960 2 " X 10 "... . 313.632 

1 " X 10 "... . 627,269 2 " X H " . • • . 285,120 

1 " X 11 44 ..• • 570.240 2 " X 12 " . . . . 261.360 

1 " X 12 "... . 522.720 3 " X 3 "... . 696.960 



PI a n ting ■ Ta bles . 



93 



Number of Plants to an Acre at Given Distances, continued. 







Plants. 








Plants. 


3 


in. X 4 in. . . 


. . 522.720 


7 in 


X 12 


in 


74,674 


3 


44 X 5 " 


. . 418.175 


8 k4 


x s 




98,010 


3 


* k X 6 " . . 


. . 348,480 


8 44 


X 9 


44 . . . . 


87,120 


3 


" X 7 " . . 


. . 29S.697 


S 44 


X 10 


1 1 


78,408 


3 


41 X 8 ki . . 


. . 261.360 


8 44 


X 11 


1 1 


71,280 


3 


" X 9 44 . . 


. . 232.320 


S 44 


X 12 


i< 


65,340 


3 


" X 10 " . . 


. . 209.088 


9 44 


X 9 


i ( 


77.440 


3 


u XU"" . . 


190. 0S0 


9 44 


X 10 




69,696 


3 


" X 12 " . . 


. . 174.240 


9 44 


X 11 


44 .... 


63,360 


4 


M X 4 " . . 


. . 392.040 


9 44 


X 12 


4 . . . . 


58,080 


4 


" X 5 44 . . 


. . 313.632 


10 44 


X 10 


44 ... . 


62.726 


4 


" X 6 " . . 


. . 261.360 


10 " 


X 12 


44 ... . 


52.272 


4 


k - X 7 ki . . 


224.022 


10 " 


X 15 


a 


41,817 


4 


4k X 8 u . . 


. . 196.020 


10 " 


X 18 


it 


34.S4S 


4 


11 X 9 " . . 


. . 174.240 


10 kt 


X 20 


a 


31,362 


4 


" X 10 " . . 


. . 156.S16 


10 " 


X 24 


'* or 2 ft.. 


26.132 


4 


14 X 11 " • 


. . 142.560 


10 11 


X 30 




20,908 


4 


" X 12 " . . 


. . 130.6S0 


10 " 


X 36 


i4 or 3 ft.. 


17,424 


5 


" X 5 " . . 


. . 250,905 


10 " 


X 42 




14.935 


5 


M X 6 " . . 


. . 209,088 


10 «■ 


X 48 


" or 4 ft.. 


13.068 


5 


44 X 7 44 . . 


. . 179,218 


10 " 


X 54 


" .... 


11,616 


5 


" X 8 14 . . 


. . 156,816 


10 - 


X 60 


k> or 5 ft. . 


10,454 


5 


44 X 9 44 . . 


. . 139,392 


12 " 


X 12 


M 


43,560 


5 


tt X 10 " . . 


. . 125,452 


12 44 


X 15 


II 


34,S4S 


5 


44 xn " . . 


. . 114,048 


12 44 


X 18 


u 


29,040 


5 


'• X 12 . . 


. . 104,544 


12 44 


X 20 


44 .... 


26.136 


6 


44 X 6 44 . . 


. . 174,240 


12 " 
or 1ft, 


\ V24 


k - or 2 ft. . 




6 


4 4 X 7 44 . . 


. . 149,348 


21.750 


6 


44 X 8 " . 


. . 130,680 


12 in. 


X 30 




17,424 


6 


44 X 9 44 . . 


. . 116,160 


12 44 


X 36 


" or 3 ft.. 


14,520 


6 


44 X 10 4 4 . . 


. . 104,544 


12 44 


X 42 




12.446 


6 


lt xn u . . 


. . 95,040 


12 44 


X 48 


11 or 4 ft.. 


10,890 


6 


44 X 12 44 . . 


. . 87,120 


12 " 


X 54 




9.6S0 


7 


44 X 7 44 . . 


. . 128,013 


12 " 


X 60 


" or 5 ft. . 


8.712 


7 


44 X 8 44 . . 


. . 112,011 


15 " 


X 15 




27.878 


7 


44 X 9 44 . . 


. . 99,562 


15 " 


X 18 




23.232 


7 


44 X 10 44 . . 


. . 89,609 


15 " 


X 20 




20.903 


7 


44 xn " 


. . 81,462 


15 " 


X 24 


" or 2 ft.. 


17,424 



The Horticulturist* s Rule-Book. 



Number of Plants to an Acre at 



Plants, 



15 in. 


X 30 in 




. 13.939 


15 44 


X 36 " 


or 3 ft. . 


. 11,616 


15 " 


X42 " 




. 9.953 


15 44 


X 48 


or 4 ft. . 


. 8,712 


15 44 


X 54 " 




7,744 


15 - k 


X 60 " 


or 5 ft. . 


. 6.969 


18 " 


X 18 " 






18 ' k 


X 20 " 




. 17,424 


IS " 


X 24 " 


or 2 ft. . 


. 14.520 


IS " 


X 30 [ l 




. 11,616 


18 " 


X 36 - 


or 3 ft. . 


. 9,680 


18 " 


X 42 " 




. 8,297 


18 " 


X 4S " 


or 4 ft. . 


. 7,260 


18 k - 


X 54 " 




6.453 


18 " 


X 60 " 


or 5 ft. . 


. 5. SOS 


20 k ' 


X 20 " 




. 15.6S1 


20 ' k 


X 24 " 


or 2 ft . . 


. 13,168 


20 ki 


X 30 " 




. 10,454 


20 " 


X 36 " 


or 3 ft. . 


. S.712 


20 " 


X 42 " 




. 7.467 


20 


X 48 " 


or 4 ft. . 


. 6.534 


20 64 


X 54 " 




. 5. SOS 


20 " 


X 60 " 


or 5 ft. . 


. 5.227 


1 ft. 


X i ft 




. 43.560 


1 44 


X 2 " 




. 21,780 


1 " 


X 3 44 


• • • 


. 14.520 


1 44 


X 4 " 




. 10,890 


1 " 


X 5 " 




. S.712 


1 " 


X 6 




7,260 


1 44 


XT" 




6,223 


1 w 


X 8 " 




5,445 


1 " 


X 9 44 




. 4,840 


1 " 


X 10 " 




4,356 


1 " 


X 11 " 




. 3^960 


1 44 


X 12 " 




. 3.630 


2 44 


X 2 « 




. 10,890 


2 4 * 


X 3 " 




. 7,260 


2 44 


X 4 - 




. 5.445 



Distances, continued. 







Plants. 


2 ft. 


X 5 f t. . . 


. . . 4,356 


IC 


X 6 " . . 


. . . 3.630 


9 <• 


X 7 " . . 


. . . 3,111 


o ti 


X 8 " . . 


2,722 


a 


X 9 « . . 


. . . 2 ? ,420 


2 " 


X 10 " . . 


. . . 2,178 


2 4 ' 


X 11 " . . 


. . . 1,980 


o «• 


X 12 " • . 


. . . 1,815 


3 " 


X 3 " . . 


. . . 4,840 


3 44 


X 4 44 . . . 


. . 3,630 


3 " 


X 5 " . . 


. . . 2,904 


3 " 


X 6 44 


. . . 2,420 


3 " 


X 7 44 . . 


. . . 2.074 


3 " 


X 8 " . . 


. . . 1,815 


3 " 


X 9 » . . 


. 1,613 


3 " 


X 10 " . . 


. . . 1,452 


3 " 


xii " 


. . . 1,320 


3 44 


X 12 " - . 


. . . 1,210 


4 44 


X 4 ' 4 


2.722 


4 " 


X 5 44 


. . 2,178 


4 44 


X 6 " . . 


. . . 1,815 


4 44 


X 7 44 . . 


. . . 1.556 


4 " 


X 8 " . . 


. . 1,361 


4 14 


X 9 " . . 


. . . 1,210 


4 " 


X 10 " 


. . . 1,089 


4 " 


X 11 " 


. . . 990 


4 44 


X 13 " - - 


. . . 907 


5 11 


X 5 " . . 


. . . 1.742 


5 " 


X 6 " . . 


. . . 1.452 


5 " 


X 7 " . . 


. . . 1,244 


5 " 


X S " . . 


. . . 1,0S9 


5 " 


X 9 " 


. . . 96S 


5 


xio " - . 


. . 871 


5 44 


X 11 " 


. . . 792 


5 44 


X 12 " . . 


. . . 726 


6 11 


X 6 " . . 


. . . 1.210 


6 " 


X 7 44 . . 


. . . 1.037 


6 4t 


X 8 44 . . 


. . . 907 



Planting- Tables . 95 
Number of Plants to an Acre at Given Distances, continued. 



Plants. 



6 ft. X 9 ft 806 

G " X 10 " 726 

. 6 " X 11 " 660 

44 X 12 " 605 

7 " X 7 " 888 

7 " X 8 u 777 

7 " X 9 u 691 

7 44 X 10 " 622 

7 " X 11 " 565 

7 " X 12 14 518 

8 " X 8 44 680 

8 41 X 9 " 605 

8 44 X 10 44 544 

8 44 X 11 " 495 

8 44 X 12 44 453 

9 44 X 9 '* 4 537 

9 44 X 10 44 484 

9 k4 X 1 1 44 440 

9 44 X 12 44 403 

9 44 X 14 44 345 

9 44 X 15 44 322 

9 44 X 18 44 268 

9 44 X 20 44 242 

10 44 X 10 44 435 

10 44 X 12 44 363 

10 44 X 15 44 290 

10 44 X 18 44 .... . 242 

10 44 X 20 44 217 

10 44 X 24 44 181 

10 44 X 30 44 145 

10 44 X 36 44 ... . 121 

10 44 X 42 4 103 

10 44 X 45 44 96 

10 44 X 48 44 90 

10 44 X 54 44 80 

10 44 X 60 44 72 

12 u X 12 44 302 

12 44 X 15 44 242 



Plants. 



12 ft. X IS ft 201 

12 44 X 20 44 181 

12 44 X 24 " 151 

12 44 X 30 k4 121 

12 44 X 36 44 100 

12 u X 42 44 86 

12 44 X 48 44 75 

12 44 X 54 44 67 

12 44 X 60 44 60 

15 44 X 15 44 193 

15 44 X 18 44 161 

15 44 X 20 44 .... . 145 

15 44 X 24 44 121 

15 44 X 30 44 96 

15 44 X 36 44 80 

15 * 4 X 42 44 69 

15 44 X 48 44 60 

15 44 X 54 44 53 

15 44 X 60 44 48 

18 44 X 18 44 134 

18 44 X 20 44 121 

18 44 X 24 44 100 

18 44 X 30 44 80 

18 44 X 36 44 67 

18 44 X 42 44 57 

18 44 X 48 44 50 

18 44 X 54 44 44 

18 44 X 60 44 40 

20 44 X 20 44 108 

20 44 X 24 90 

20 44 X 30 - 4 72 

20 44 X 36 44 60 

20 44 X 42 44 .... . 51 

20 44 X 48 44 45 

20 44 X 54 44 40 

20 " X 60 44 36 

24 44 X 24 44 .... . 75 

24 14 X 30 44 60 



96 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Number of Planti to an Acre at Given Distances, continued. 











Plants. 






Plants. 


24 


ft 


X36 


ft. . . . 


. . 50 


40 


ft. X 40 ft. . . 


27 


24 


it 


X 42 


u 


43 


40 


" X 42 " 


25 


24 


" 


X48 


u 


37 


40 


" X48 " . . 


22 


24 


L I 


X 54 


"... 


. . 33 


40 


" X50 " . 


21 


24 


11 


X 60 


"... 


, . 30 


40 


" X 54 " 


20 


30 


li 


X 30 




. . 48 


40 


" X 60 " 


18 


30 


il 


X 36 




. . 40 


42 


" X42 " .- . 


24 


30 


i i 


X42 


(4 


. . 34 


42 


" X48 " 


. . 21 


30 


(t 


X48 


" . . . 


30 


42 


" X 54 " 


19 


30 




X 54 


"... 


. . 26 


42 


" X 60 " 


17 


30 




X 60 


a 


24 


48 


" X48 " 


18 


36 




X 36 


"... 


" . 33 


48 


" X 54 " 


16 


36 


" 


X 42 


" . . . 


, . 28 


48 


" X 60 " , 


15 


36 




X 48 




25 


50 


" X 50 " 


17 


36 




X 54 




. . 22 


50 


" X 54 " . . 


. . 16 


36 


u 


X 60 


1 1 


. , 20 


50 


" X 60 " 


14 


38 


u 


X 38 


t i 


. . 30 


54 


" X 54 " . . 


14 


38 




X 40 




. . 28 


54 


" X 60 " 


13 


38 




X42 


tt 


. . 27 


60 


" X 60 " 


12 


38 


u 


X48 


u 


. . 23 


70 


" X 70 " . . . 


8 


38 


u 


X50 


1 1 


. . 22 


80 


" X 80 " 


6 


38 


ct 


X54 


1 1 


21 


90 


" X 90 " . . . 


: . : 5 


38 


u 


X 60 




. , 19 


100 


" X 100" . . . 


. . 4 



To find the number of plants required to set an acre, multiply 
together the two distances, in feet, at which the trees stand 
apart, and divide 43,560 by the product; the quotient will be the 
number of plants required. 

Quincunx Planting. — To find the number of plants required 
to set an acre by the quincunx method, ascertain from the above 
tables the number required at the given rectangular distances, 
and then increase the number by one-half. 



CHAPTER XI. 



Maturities, Yields and Multiplication. 



i. Time Required 


for 


Maturity of Different Garden Crops, 


Reckoned 


fro 


m the Sowi 


ng of the Seeds. 


Beans, String . . . 








u Shell . . . 








Beets, Turnip . . . 






65 " " 


11 Long Blood 






150 *« " 


Cabbage, Early . . 






105 " " " 


" Late . . . 






. 150 " " " 


Cauliflower .... 






110 " 


Corn . 






. 75 " " " 


Egg-Plant 






150-160 " 


Lettuce 






, 65 " " " 


Melon, Water . . . 






120-120 " 


" Musk . . . 






120-140 " 
















, 140-150 " 


Radish 






30- 45 " 


Squash, Summer . 






. 60- 65 " 








, 125 
















60- 70 " 


2. Time Required, from Setting, 


for Fruit-Plants to Bear. 


Apple — 3 y ears. 


Good crop in about 10 years. 


Blackberry — 1 year. 


Good crops in 2 and 3 years. 



Citrus fruits (oranges, lemons, etc.) — 2 to 3 years. Good 
crop in 2 or 3 years later. 

Cranberry — 3 years gives a fair crop. 
Currant — 1 year. Good crops in 2 and 3 years. 



9 8 



The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Time Required, from Setting:, for Fruit-Plants to Bear, continued. 

Gooseberry — 1 year. Good crops in 2 and 3 years. 

Grape — Fair crop in 4 years. 

Peach — 2 years. Good crop in 4 years. 

Pear — 3 or 4 years. Fair crop in 6 to 12 years. 

Persimmon, or Kaki — 1 to 3 years. 

Quince — 2 years. Good crop in 4 years. 

Raspberry — 1 year. Good crop in 2 and 3 years. 

Plum — 3 years. Good crop in 5 or 6 years. 

Strawberry — 1 year. Heaviest crop usually in 2 years. 

3. Average Profitable Longevity of Fruit-Plants under High 
Culture. 



Apple ....... 25-40 years. 

Blackberry .... 8-12 " 

Currant 20 " 

Gooseberry 20 " 

Orange and Lemon, 50 or more. 
Peach 8-12 years. 



Pear 50-75 years. 

Persimmon, or Kaki, as long 
as an apple tree. 

Plum 20-25 years. 

Raspberry .... 8-12 " 
Strawberry 3 " 



4. Average Yields Per Acre of Various Crops. 

The yields of those crops in which the salable products are 
equal in number to the number of plants per acre, and in which 
the product is sold by the piece, are to be calculated from the 
planting-tables in Chapter X. — such as cabbage, celery, and the 
like. 

Apples— A tree 20 to 30 years old may be expected to yield 
from 25 to 40 bus. every alternate year. 
Artichoke— 200 to 300 bus. 
Beans, Green or Snap — 75 to 120 bus. 

" Lima — 75 to 100 bus. of dry beans. 
Beet— 400 to 700 bus. 
Carrots— 400 to 700 bus. 
Corn — 50 to 75 bus., shelled. 

Cranberry — 100 to 300 bus. 900 bus. have been reported. 
Cucumber — About 150,000 fruits per acre. 
Currant — 100 bus. 

Egg-Plant — 1 or 2 large fruits to the plant for the large sorts 
like New York Purple, and from 3 to 8 fruits for the smaller 
varieties. 



Maturities, Yields and Multiplication. 99 



Average Yields Per Acre of Various Crops, continued. 
Gooseberry — 100 bus. 

Grape — 3 to 5 tons. Good raisin vineyards in California, 15 
years old, will produce from 10 to 12 tons. 
Horse-radish — 3 to 5 tons. 
Kohlrabi— 500 to 1000 bus. 

Onion, from seed — 300 to 800 bus. 600 bus. is a large average 
yield. 

Parsnips — 500 to 800 bus. 

Pea, green, in pod — 100 to 150 bus. 

Peach— In full bearing, a peach tree should produce from 
5 to 10 bus. 

Pear — A tree 20 to 25 years old should give from 25 to 45 bus. 
Pepper— 30,000 to 50,000 fruits. 

Plum— 5 to 8 bus. may be considered an average crop for an 
average tree. 

Potato— 100 to 300 bus. 

Quince— 200 to 400 bus. 

Raspberry and Blackberry — 50 to 100 bus. 

Salsify^-200 to 300 bus. 

Spinage— 200 barrels. 

Strawberry — 75 to 250 or even 300 bus. 

Tomato— 8 to 16 tons. 

Turnip— 600 to 1000 bus. 



ioo The Horticulturist *s Ride-Book. 




*SXNV1d JO XOIXVOVdO^d 



Maturities, Yields and Multiplication. ioi 



6. Ways of Grafting and Budding. (Baltet.) 

Grafting with Undet ached Scions. (Inarching.) 

1. — Method by veneering. 

" " inlaying. 
English method. 

2. — Inarching with an eye. 

k, a branch. 

Grafting with Detached Scions. 

1. — Side-grafting under the bark. 

M " with a simple branch. 
" " with a heeled branch. 
" 41 in the alburnum. 
" u with a straight cleft. 
" " with an oblique cleft. 

2. — Crown-grafting. 

Ordinary method. 
Improved Method. 

3. — Grafting de precision. 

Veneering, common method. 

" in crown-grafting. 

" with strips of bark. 
Crown-grafting by inlaying. 
Side-grafting by inlaying. 

4. — Cleft-grafting, common single. 

" " " double. 

" " oblique. 

" " terminal. 

" " " woody. 

" " " herbaceous. 

5. — "Whip-grafting, simple. 

" " complex. 
Saddle-grafting. 

6. — Mixed grafting. 

Grafting with cuttings : 

When the scion is a cutting. 

When the stock is a cutting. 

When both are cuttings. 
Root-grafting of a plant on its own root. 



io2 The Horticulturist s Rule-Book. 



Ways of Grafting- and Budding-, continued. 

Root-grafting of a plant on the roots of another plant. 
Grafting with fruit-buds. 

Bud-Grafting. (Budding.) 

1. — Grafting with shield-buds. 

Bud-grafting under the bark, or by inoculation, 
ordinary method . 
with a cross-shaped incision. 

" the incision reversed, 
by veneering. 
Bud-grafting, the combined or double method. 

2. — Flute-grafting. 

" " Common method. 

With strips of bark. 

7. Particular Methods by which Various Fruits arc Multiplied. 



Barberry. . . . Cuttings of mature wood : seeds. 

Orange Seeds : seedlings budded or grafted. 

Figs Cuttings, either of soft or mature wood. 

Mulberry .... Cuttings of mature wood. Some varieties are 

root-grafted, and some are budded. 
Olive Cuttings of mature or even old wood. Chips 

from the trunks of old trees are sometimes 

used. 

Pomegranate ■ ■ Cuttings, layers and seeds. 

Apple and Pear. Seeds; seedlings budded or grafted. 

Peach and other stone-fruits — 

Seeds; seedlings budded. 
Quince ... . . Cuttings, usually: the cuttings often grafted. 
Grape Cuttings of from one to three buds : layers. 



Currant and Gooseberry- 
Cuttings. 

Raspberries, red. Suckers from the root : root-cuttings. 

bl'k. Layers from tips of canes : root-cuttings. 
Blackberry . . . Root-cuttings ; suckers from the root. 
Cranberry . . . Layers or divisions. 
Strawberry. . .Runners: tip-cuttings. 



It* C( 
<{ CI 



Maturities, Yields and Multiplication. 103 



8. Stocks Used for Various Fruits. 



Almond Peach, hard -shelled almond, plum. 

Apple Common apple seedlings. Paradise and 

Doucin stocks, crab-apple and wild 

crab. 

Apricot Apricot and peach in mild climates and 

plum in severe ones . 

Cherry Mazzard stocks are preferred for stand- 
ards ; Mahaleb stocks are used for 
dwarfing. 

Medlar Hawthorn, medlar, quince. 

Mulberry Seedlings of white mulberry. 

Orange Otaheite orange, shaddock; Citrus tri- 

foliata. particularly for dwarfs. 



Peach aad Nectarine. . Peach. Plum is often used when dwarfs 



are wanted, or when the peach must 
be grown in a too severe climate or 
upon heavy soil. 

Pear Pear ; quince, mountain-ash. or thorn for 

dwarfs. Apple temporarily. 

Persimmon, Japanese . Native persimmon. 

Plum Plum, Myrobolan plum, peach. 

Quince The finer varieties are sometimes graf ted 

upon strong-growing kinds like the 
Angers 



^ 6) fg jg g) j 



Theory is the general,— practice, the soldiers. 

—Leonardo da Vinci. 



CHAPTER XII. 



Methods of Keeping and Storing Fruits and 
Vegetables. 

Apples. — 

1. Keep the fruit as cool as possible without freezing. 
Select only normal fruit, and place it upon trays in a moist 
but well ventilated cellar. If it is desired to keep the fruit 
particularly nice, allow no fruits to touch each other upon 
the trays, and the individual fruits may be wrapped in tissue 
paper. For market purposes, pack tightly in barrels, and 
store the barrels in a very cool place. 

2. Some solid apples, like Spitzenberg, are not injured by 
hard freezing, if they are allowed to remain frozen until 
wanted and are then thawed out very gradually. 

3. Many apples, particularly russets and other firm varie- 
ties, keep well when buried after the manner of pitting pota- 
toes. Sometimes, however, they taste of the earth. This 
may be prevented by setting a ridge-pole over the pile of 
apples in forked sticks, and making a roof of boards in such 
a manner that there will be an air-space over the fruit. 
Then cover the boards with straw and earth. Apples seldom 
keep well after removal from a pit in spring. 

4. Apples may be kept by burying in chaff. Spread chaff 
— buckwheat-chaff is good — on the barn-floor, pile on the 
apples and cover them with chaff and fine broken or chopped 
straw two feet thick, exercising care to fill the interstices. 

Pears. — Pears should be picked several days or a couple of weeks 
before they are ripe, and then placed in a dry and well-ven- 
tilated room, like a chamber. Make very shallow piles, or 
better, place on trays. 

(104) 



Keeping and Storing Fruits and Vegetables. 105 



Figs. — After the figs are gathered and dried in the same way as 
peaches or apricots, wash to remove all grit, and spread in 
shallow pans and set them in the oven to become thoroughly 
heated, taking care to prevent scorching. Then roll in 
powdered sugar, which has been rolled to remove all lumps. 
When cold, pack away, preferably in paper bags. They 
make a delicious lunch with a bowl of milk. They also help 
to make a nice dessert. 

Gooseberries keep well if kept tight in common bottles filled with 
pure water. Be sure that none but perfect berries are ad- 
mitted, and keep in a cool place. 

Grapes.— 

1. The firm grapes usually keep best — as Catawba, Ver- 
gennes, Niagara, Diana. Jefferson, etc. Thickness of skin 
does not appear to be correlated with good keeping qualities 
Always cut the bunches which are to be stored on a dry 
day, when the berries are ripe, and carefully remove all soft, 
bruised and imperfect fruits and all leaves. Keep the fruit 
dry, cool, and away from currents of air. Many varieties 
keep well if simply placed in shallow boxes or baskets and 
kept undisturbed in a cool place. 

2. Pack the bunches in layers of dry, clean sand. 

3. Pack in layers of some small grain, as wheat, or oats, 
or barley. 

4. Cork-dust is also excellent for use is packing grapes. 
This cork can be had from grocers who handle the white 
Malagas, which are packed in this material. 

5. Pack the bunches in finely cut, soft and dry hay, placing 
the grapes and hay in consecutive layers. 

6. Dry hardwood sawdust is also good for packing. 

7. Place on shelves in a cool, airy room. After a few days 
wrap the bunches separately in soft paper and pack in 
shallow pasteboard boxes, not more than two or three layers 
deep. Keep in a cool, dry room that is free from frost. 

8. Cut the bunches with sharp scissors, place in shallow 
baskets, but few in a basket, and after reaching the house 
dip the cut end of stems in melted wax. Now take tissue 
paper or very thin manila paper cut just to the right size, 



io6 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Grapes, continued. 

and carefully wrap each cluster of grapes. Secure shallow 
tin boxes ; place a layer of cotton-batting at the bottom, then 
a layer of grapes, then batting ; three layers of grapes are 
enough for one box, alternating with cotton-batting, and 
topping with batting ; then gently secure the lid to each box, 
and when done place in cold-storage for use in April or even 
later. If cold-storage cannot be had, put in a dry, cool 
room, and when cold weather approaches cover in an interior 
closet with just sufficient covering to prevent freezing; 
warmth will cause over-ripening and deterioration. 

9. Roe's Method. — In a stone jar place alternate layers 
of grapes and straw paper, the paper being in double thick- 
ness. Over the jar place a cloth and bury below frost in a 
dry soil. The grapes will keep until New- Year's. 

Keeping Grapes for Market (W. M. Pattison, Quebec).— 
It is the generally received opinion that the thick-skinned 
native seedlings are the only keepers. This is correct as 
regards preserving flavor, but several hybrids of foreign 
blood are the best keepers known. Before giving results of 
this and former trials, instructions in packing may be of 
service. The varieties intended to be laid up for winter use 
should be those alone which adhere well to the stem and are 
not inclined to shrivel. These should be allowed to remain 
on the vines as long as they are safe from frost. A clear 
dry day is necessary for picking, and careful handling and 
shallow baskets are important. The room selected for the 
drying-process should be well ventilated, and the fruit laid 
out in single layers on tables or in baskets where the air 
circulates freely, the windows being closed at night and in 
damp weather. In about ten days the stems will be dried 
out sufficiently to prevent molding when laid away. When 
danger from this is over, and the stems resemble those of 
raisins, the time for packing has arrived. In this, the point 
to be observed is to exclude air proportionately with their 
tendency to mold. I have used baskets for permanent 
packing, but much prefer shallow trays or boxes of uniform 
size to be packed on each other, so that each box forms a 
cover for the lower, the uppermost only needing one. Until 



Keepmg a?id Storing Fruits and Vegetables. 107 



Grapes, continued. 

very cold weather, the boxes can be piled so as to allow the 
remaining moisture to escape through a crevice about the 
width of a knife-blade. Before packing, each bunch should 
be examined, and all injured, cracked and rotten berries 
removed with suitable scissors. J^two layers are packed in 
a box, a sheet of paper should intervene. The boxes must 
be kept in a cool, dry room or passage, at an even tempera- 
ture. If the thermometer goes much below freezing-point, a 
blanket or newspaper can be thrown over them, to be re- 
moved in mild weather. Looking over them once in the 
winter and removing defective berries will suffice, the 
poorest keepers being placed accessible. Under this treat- 
ment the best keepers will be in good edible order as late as 
February, after which they deteriorate. 

The following is a list of grapes worth noticing, that have 
been tested for keeping : 



Description. 



List of Grapes to be Recommended. 



f M. 



Nov. 1st : Lady, Antoinette, Carlotta, Belinda. 



Dec. 1st. Lady Washington, Peter Wiley, Mason, Worden, 
Senasqua, RomelPs Superior, Ricketts' No. 546, 
Concord, Delaware. 



Jan. isl. Duchess, Essex, Barry, Rockland, Favorite, Aminia, 
Garber, Massasoit, Dempsey's No. 5, Burnett, 
Undine, Allen's Hybrid, Agawam, Gen. Pope, 
Francis Scott. 



Jan. 15th. j Salem, Vergennes, El Dorado. 



Feb. 1st. 



Wilder, Herbert, Peabody, Rogers' No. 30, Gsertner, 
Marv and Owosso. 



Orange. — Aside from the customary wrapping of oranges in 
tissue paper and packing them in boxes, burying in dry sand 
is sometimes practiced. The fruit is first wrapped in tissue 
paper, and it should be buried in such manner that the fruit 
shall not be more than three tiers deep. 



io8 



The Horticulturist s Rule- Book. 



Crystallized or Glace Fruit. — The principle is to extract the juice 
from the fruit and replace it with sugar syrup, which 
hardens and preserves the fruit in its natural shape. The 
fruit should be all of one size and of a uniform degree of 
ripeness, such as is best for canning. Peaches, pears and 
similar fruits are parW and cut in halves ; plums, cherries, 
etc., are pitted. After being properly prepared, the fruit is 
put in a basket or bucket with a perforated bottom and 
immersed in boiling water to dilute and extract the juice. 
This is the most important part of the process, and requires 
great skill. If the fruit be left too long, it is over-cooked 
and becomes soft ; if not long enough, the juice is not suffi- 
ciently extracted, and this prevents perfect absorption of 
the sugar. After the fruit cools, it may again be assorted 
as to softness. The syrup is made of white sugar and water. 
The softer the fruit, the heavier the syrup required. The 
fruit is placed in earthen pans, covered with syrup and 
left about a week. This is a critical stage, as fermentation 
will soon take place, and when this has reached a certain 
stage the fruit and syrup are heated to the boiling point, 
which checks the fermentation. This is repeated, as often 
as may be necessary, for about six weeks. The fruit is 
taken out of the syrup, washed in clean water, and either 
glaced or crystallized, as desired. It is dipped in thick 
syrup, and hardened quickly in the open air for glacing. or 
left to be hardened slowly if to be crystallized. The fruit is 
now ready for packing, and will keep in any climate. 

Preserving Fruits for Exhibition. — Several methods are employed. 
Perhaps the best is to place the fruits in corrosive sublimate 
— which is a violent poison — prepared at the rate of half an 
ounce to a gallon of water. Renew the liquid every year or 
two. Distilled or other very pure water should be used if it 
is desired to retain the color of the fruit. 

Sulphur is sometimes used as follows : Put 30 gallons of 
water in a 40-gallon barrel ; float on top of the water a tin 
pan, in which put a little sulphur. Set the sulphur on fire 
and cover tightly until the fire goes out ; renew the sulphur 
several times, opening the barrel for renewal of air between 
the doses. This fluid is then used as a preservative. 



Keeping and Storing Fruits and Vegetables 109 



Preserving: Fruits for Exhibition, continued. 

A satisfactory fluid is made by placing an ounce of sali- 
cylic acid in 5 gals, water, and then adding a little glycerine. 
The amount of glycerine will depend upon the juiciness of the 
fruit. The greater the juiciness, the more glycerine must be 
added. From 8 to 15 per cent, may be considered an 
average. 

Cabbage. — The most satisfactory method of keeping cabbages is 
to bury them in the field. Select a dry place, pull the cab- 
bages and stand them head down on the soil. Cover them 
with soil to the depth of six or ten inches, covering very 
lightly at first to prevent heating — unless the weather should 
quickly become severe — and as winter sets in cover with a 
good dressing of straw or coarse manure. The cabbages 
should be allowed to stand where they grew until cold 
weather approaches. The storing-beds are usually made 
about 6 or 8 feet wide, so that the middle of the bed can be 
reached from either side, and to prevent heating if the 
weather should remain open. Cabbages quickly decay in 
the warm weather of spring. 

Cabbage for family use is most conveniently kept in a 
barrel or box half buried in the garden. Cabbages and 
turnips should never be kept in the cellar, as when decaying 
they become very offensive. 

Celery. — For market purposes, celery is stored in temporary 
board pits, in sheds, in cellars, and in various kinds of earth 
pits and trenches. The points to be considered are, to 
provide the plants with moisture to prevent wilting, to 
prevent hard freezing, and to give some ventilation. The 
plants are set loosely in the soil. There are several methods 
of keeping celery in an ordinary cellar for home use. The 
following methods are good : 

Take a shoe or similar box. Bore one-inch holes in the 
sides, four inches from bottom. Put a layer of sand or soil 
in the box, and stand the plants, trimmed carefully, upon it, 
closely together, working more sand or soil about the root 
part, and continue until the box is full. The soil should be 
watered as often as needed, but always through the holes in 
the side of the box. Keep the foliage dry. 



no 



The Horticulturist s Rule- Book. 



Celery, continued. 

Celery may also be stored and well blanched at the same 
time, in a similar way, by standing it in a barrel upon a 
layer of soil. Some roots and soil may be left adhering to 
the plants. Crowd closely, water through holes near the 
bottom as in case of box storage, and keep the plants in the 
dark. 

Blanched celery can also be preserved for a long time by 
trimming closely and packing upright in moss inside of a 
box. A large quantity of the vegetable may thus be stored 
in a small space. 

Onions demand a dry cellar, and the bulbs should be thoroughly 
dried in the sun before they are stored. All tops should be 
cut away when the onions are harvested. If a cellar cannot 
be had, the bulbs may be allowed to freeze, but great care 
must be exercised or the whole crop will be lost. The 
onions must not be subjected to extremes of temperature, 
and they should not thaw out during the winter. They can 
be stored on the north side of a loft, being covered with two 
or three feet of straw, hay or chaff to preserve an equable 
temperature. They must not be handled while frozen, and 
they must thaw out very gradually in the spring. This 
method of keeping onions is reliable only when the weather 
is cold and tolerably uniform. 

Roots of all sorts, as beets, carrots, salsify, parsnips, can be 
kept from wilting by packing them in damp sphagnum moss, 
like that used by nurserymen. They may also be packed in 
sand. It is an erroneous notion that parsnips and salsify 
are not good until after they are frozen. 

Squashes should be stored in a dry room in which the tempera- 
ture is uniform and about 50°. Growers for market usually 
build squash-houses or rooms and heat them. Great care 
should be taken not to bruise any squashes which are to be 
stored. Squashes procured from the market have usually 
been too roughly handled to be reliable for storing. 

Sweet-potatoes. — Ix the North. — Dig the potatoes on a sunny day, 
and allow them to dry thoroughly in the field. Sort out the 
poor ones and handle the remainder carefully. Never allow 
them to become chilled. Then pack them in barrels in 



Keeping and Storing Fruits and Vegetables. 1 1 1 

Sweet-pOtatoes, continued. 

layers, in dry sand, and store in a warm cellar. They are 
sometimes stored in finely broken charcoal, in charcoal-dust, 
wheat-chaff and similar substances. 

Sometimes they are kept in small and open crates, with- 
out packing-material, the crates being stacked so as to allow 
thorough ventilation. The Hayman or Southern Queen keeps 
well in this way. 

A warm attic is often a good place in which to store sweet- 
potatoes. A tight room over a kitchen is particularly good 
when it is so arranged that the heat from the kitchen can be 
utilized in warming it. 

Ix the South (Berckmans).— Digging the tubers should 
be delayed until the vines have been sufficiently touched by 
frost to check vegetation. Allow the potatoes to dry off in 
the fieid, which will take but a few hours. Then sort all 
those of eating-size to be banked separately from the smaller 
ones. The banks are prepared as follows : Make a circular 
bed six feet in diameter, in a sheltered corner of the garden, 
throwing up the earth about a foot high. Cover this with 
straw and bank up the tubers in shape of a cone, using from 
10 to 20 bushels to each bank. A triangular pipe made of 
narrow planks to act as a ventilator should be placed in the 
middle of the cone. Cover the tubers with straw 6 to 10 
inches thick and bank the latter with earth, first using only 
a small quantity, but increasing the thickness a week or ten 
days afterwards. A board should be placed upon the top of 
the ventilating-pipe to prevent water from reaching the 
tubers. Several banks are usually made in a row, and a 
rough shelter of boards built over the whole. The main 
point to be considered in putting up sweet-potatoes for winter 
is entire freedom from moisture and sufficient covering to 
prevent heating. It is therefore advisable to allow the 
tubers to undergo sweating (which invariably occurs after 
being put in heaps) before covering them too much; and if 
the temporary covering is removed for a few hours, a week 
after being heaped, the moisture generated will be removed 
and very little difficulty will follow from that cause. If 
covered too thickly at once, the sweating often engenders 



112 



The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Sweet-Potatoes, continued. 

rapid fermentation, and loss is then certain to follow. Sand 
is never used here in banking potatoes. Some varieties of 
potatoes keep much better than others. The Yellow Sugar 
Yam and the Pumpkin Yam are the most difficult to carry 
through ; while the Trinidad potato keeps as readily as Irish 
potatoes, only requiring to be kept free from frost and light 
by a slight covering of straw, if the tubers are placed in a 
house. Next in keeping quality come the Hati Yam, the 
Red-skinned, Brimstone, Nigger Killer ; and the last of the 
potato section is the Nansemond. 

Tomatoes, — Pick the firmest fruits just as they are beginning to 
turn, leaving the stems on. exercising care not to bruise them, 
and pack in a barrel or box in clean and thoroughly dry sand, 
placing the fruits so that they will not touch each other. 
Place the barrel in a dry place. 

In the autumn, when frosts appear, tomatoes, if carefully 
picked and laid on straw under the glass of cold-frames, will 
continue to ripen until near Christmas. Fruit ripened in 
this way seems to be as good as that ripening naturally on 
the vines. 

The ripening of tomatoes may be hastened ten days by 
bagging them as grapes are bagged. 




These are arts pursued without a crime, 
That leave no stain upon the wings of Time. 



— COWPER. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



Standard and Legal Measures and Sizes. 

I. Standard Flower-Pots. 

American. 

The Society of American Florists has adopted a standard pot. 
i 1 which all measurements are made inside, and which bears a 
rim or shoulder at the top. The breadth and depth of these pots 
are the same, so that they " nest " well. 



English— Chiswick Standards. 





Diam. 






at top. 


Depth. 


Thimbles 




2 in. 


Thumbs 


2^ 


2% 


60's 


3 


*A 


54's . . . 


4 


4 


48's 


±A 


5 


32's 


6 


6 







8 


16's 


$A 


9 


12's 


nji 


10 


8's 


. 12 


11 


6*s 


13 


12 




15 


13 


2's 


.18 


14 



(113) 



H4 



2. Legal and Stan 

Legal Weights of a Bushel of Produce 



States. 


GO* 
_^ 

Sr 
< 


- 

- 

af 
z_ 

Pi 
- 

< 


I Jeans, ( Jastor. 


6 

- 

8 

- 


+3 

ca 




( !orn, ear. 


— 

CO 

- 

O 


= 

- 

Q 


CO 

z 
' - 
Z 


xri 
— 

C 

" 


Arkansas . . . 







24 




60 


52 


70 




56 


4b 


57 


82 


California 










40 




52 






32 


Colorado 








60 


52 


70 


56 


50 


57 


32 


Connecticut 








60 


48 




56 


50 


50 


32 


Delaware 














56 


4b 










'24 




60 


52 


70 


56 


4S 


57 


32 


Illinois • • • 




24 


46 


60 


52 


70 


56 


4^ 


57 


32 


Indiana 




'25 


66 


60 


50 


68 


5 6 


50 


4> 


32 




48 


4b 


4*3 


60 


52 


TO 


5 6 




5? 


32 


Kansas . . ^ 




24 


44 


60 


50 




56 


50 


57 


32 






24 


45 


60 


56 




56 


50 


57 


32 


Louisiana 














56 






32 


Maine 


44 




60 


60 


4S 




56 


50 


52 


•JO 






28 


60 


60 


48 


70 


56 


48 


56 


26 


Massachusetts 










48 




56 


50 


5° 


32 


Michigan 


48 


"22 


46 


60 


48 


70 


56 


50 


54 


32 


Minnesota 










42 




56 






32 




48 




46 


60 


52 




56 


50 


57 


32 


Nebraska 




'24 


46 


60 


52 


70 


56 


50 


57 


32 


Nevada 








60 






56 


50 






3S ew Hampshire .... 








62 






56 


50 




32 




50 


25 


60 


60 


50 




56 




57 


30 


New York 








62 


48 




DO 


. 




o2 


North Carolina 










50 




56 


48 




32 


Ohio 


48 


99 




60 


50 


6 s * 


56 




50 


32 


Oregon 


45 








42 




56 






36 


Pennsylvania 










48 




^ 






32 


Rhode Island 














56 


50 


52 


32 


Tennessee 


50 


24 




60 


50 


70 


56 


50 


56 


32 


Texas 








60 


42 




56 




57 


32 


Vermont 


46 




60 


62 


4^ 




5n 




52 


32 


Virginia 




28 




60 




70 


56 


50 


O i 


32 


West Virginia 




25 




60 


5° 




56 






32 


Wisconsin 


56 






GO 


50 




56 




50 


32 

























Standard and Legal Measures and Si- 



rs. 



dard Measures. 

in various States, corrected to i&gi. 



X 



>i ~ B ~ 



ft 



L C Z 



00 



00 
GO 



38 
33 
33 
33 
33 
39 



40 

28 
28 
33 
33 



00 
60 
00 
00 
00 
00 

00 
00 
00 
00 
00 
00 
00 



50 



00 5(3 14 

54 . 

50 14 
60 50 



00 



14 



14 



00 I 56 48 
50 
4s 
4s 



00 



44 



50 47 
55 4 s 
48 



44 
44 



50 oO 00 57 



30 



30 



45 



50 



45 55 
45 
45 
45 
45 
45 



60 
00 
00 

00 
60 
4S 
48 

00 
00 
60 
60 
60 
00 
00 
60 
00 
00 

I . 



4S 



50 



40 

33 
28 



00 
60 
60 
60 
00 
60 
56 
00 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 
60 



56 



56 
50 
50 
50 
56 
56 
56 
56 

56 
56 
56 
56 
56 



44 



5m 



44 
45 



44 



56 I 48 
56 I 48 



45 
45 
45 
45 
45 
45 



50 
60 



CO 



00 
60 
60 



60 
60 
60 
60 
60 



n6 



The Horticulturist's Rule-Book. 



3. Miscellaneous Legal Weights Per Bushel. 

Beets: 60 lbs. in Maine, Vermont, Connecticut. Carrots: 
50 lbs. in Maine and Vermont, 55 in Connecticut. Parsnips: 

45 lbs. in Connecticut. Sweet-Potatoes : 54 lbs. in New Jersey, 

46 in Dakota, 50 in Ohio, Kansas, Nebraska, 55 in Indiana, Ken- 
tucky, TexaSj Georgia, 56 in Michigan, Virginia, Missouri, 46 in 
Iowa. Berries: 32 lbs. in Rhode Island. Cherries, Grapes, 
Currants, Gooseberries, weigh 40 lbs. in Iowa. Blackberries. 
Strawberries, Raspberries, 32 lbs. in Iowa. Peaches, 
Quinces, 48 lbs. in Iowa. Dried Plums, 28 lbs. in Michigan. 
Cranberries, 40 lbs. in Michigan. k ' Wild Pe aches.' ' 33 lbs. in 
Ohio. 

4. Miscellaneous Legal Sizes. 

The heap bushel contains 2,564 cubic ins. in Connecticut and 
Kansas; 2,150.42 ins. in New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Nebraska, 
Tennessee, Missouri, Washington. 

The bushel measure must be 19X ins. in outside diameter, 
the half -bushel 15J^ ins., the peck 123^ ins. in New York and 
California. 

The bushel measure must be 183^ ins. in inside diameter, the 
half -bushel 13% ins., the peck 10% ins. and the half-peck 9 ins. 
in New Hampshire and Minnesota. 

Produce sold by dry measure must be heaped as full as the 
measure will hold in Ohio, Illinois, Michigan, Wisconsin, Minne- 
sota, California, Oregon and Washington. 

Heap measures must be cylindrical, with a plane bottom, in 
New York and California. 

The half -bushel is 13 §§ ins. in interior diameter and 7 jf% ins 
deep in Ohio. It contains 1.075J cubic ins. in Indiana. 

In New Jersey the cranberry-box, to hold a bushel, must be 
12x8%x22 ins. in the clear. 

In Wisconsin, cranberry packages must conform to the follow- 
ing sizes: "The legal and standard cranberry-barrel in this 
state shall be twenty-three and three-quarter inches high, six- 
teen and one-fourth inches in diameter at the head, and eighteen 
inches in diameter at the bilge, inside measure. Every manu- 
facturer of barrels for cranberries shall stamp or brand his name 
with the letters W. S. on such barrels, to indicate that they are 
the Wisconsin Standard in size. All sales of cranberries in 



Standard and Legal Measures and Sizes. 117 



Miscellaneous Legal Sizes, continued. 

packages less than a barrel should be by the bushel or quart, 
struck or level dry measure. A standard bushel crate for cran- 
berries shall be twenty-two inches long, twelve and one-fourth 
inches "wide by seven and one-half inches deep, inside measure." 

In Michigan the quantity known as a box or a basket of peaches 
shall contain 716f cubic ins. or X of a bushel, strict measure. 

In New York a barrel of apples, quinces, pears or potatoes 
shall contain 100 quarts of grain or dry measure, except that 
potatoes, when sold by weight, shall be 172 lbs. to the barrel. 

In New York the measure for fruit shall be the half-bushel, 
which shall be made cylindrical, the diameter outside to outside 
15)^ ins. The standard half -bushel has l.OToyVo cubic ins. 

Michigan Standard Measure. — The half-bushel or parts there- 
of shall be the standard measure for fruits customarily sold 
by heaped measure; and. in measuring said commodities, the 
half -bushel or other small measure shall be heaped as high as 
may be, without special effort or design. 

Michigan Standard Barrel. — A barrel of fruit, roots or 
vegetables is the quantity contained in a barrel made from 
staves 27 ins. in length, and each head 16J£ ins. in diameter, or 
ordinary flour-barrel size. 

The standard Aveight of apples is 48 lbs. to the bushel. 

In Tennessee a barrel of apples contains 2% bushels. A liquid 
barrel contains 42 gals. 

In Wisconsin a barrel of apples shall contain 100 quarts dry 
measure. 

The avoirdupois pound bears to the troy pound the relation of 
7.000 to 5.760 in New York. New Jersey. Pennsylvania, Ohio, 
Iowa, Nebraska, Tennessee and California. 

5. Society and Customary Standards. 

The standard orange-box adopted by the Florida Fruit Ex- 
change measures 12x12x27 inches, with partition in the middle. 
The Exchange issues the following instructions : 

We recommend the following classifications for oranges: 
Fancy. Choice Bright. Bright Russet. Choice Russet. Russet. 

Oranges classed as Fancy should be extra-bright, with very 
smooth, thin skin. Rough, thick-skinned fruit, being ever so 
bright, should never be classed as Fancy. 



nS The Horticulturist s Rule- Book. 



Society and Customary Standards, continued. 

Oranges classed as Choice Bright should be strictly bright 
and fairly smooth skin and of desirable size. 

Oranges classed as Bright should be bright and free from rust. 

Oranges classed as Bright Russet should be at least two -thirds 
bright, with smooth skin and of desirable size. 

Oranges classed as Choice Russet should be of quite smooth 
skin and of desirable size. 

Oranges of a common dark variety should be classed as 
Russet. 

Never pack bright and rusty oranges in the same box. Never 
pack large and small oranges in the same box. 

One of the most important features in the packing of oranges 
is the uniform neatness of the packages. Buyers will pay more 
for fruit that is neatly and properly packed than they will pay 
for such as is carelessly put up. A box of oranges neatly packed, 
strapped and marked, naturally attracts the attention of buyers. 

After your fruit has been carefully packed in accordance with 
above instructions, please mark the boxes as follows : 

Place the stencil of the Florida Fruit Exchange on one end of 
the box in center of head. 

In the upper left-hand corner of the box-head stencil the 
quality of orange the box contains — Fancy, Choice Bright, Bright, 
Bright Russet, Choice Russet, Russet, Mandarin, Tangerine, or 
Navel, as the case may be. 

In the upper middle of the box-head stencil the number of 
oranges the box contains — "128," *' 176,'' 4 '200," etc., as the case 
may be. 

In the upper right-hand corner stencil the letters according to 
the following schedule: 
All sizes under 128, mark A. 
Sizes 128 to 138, mark B. 
Sizes 146 to 160, mark C. 
Sizes 176 to 200. mark D. 
All sizes over 200, mark E. 

The Georgia Horticultural Society adopts the one-third bushel 
oblong crate for peaches and similar fruits. The dimensions of 
this crate are about 8x12)^x22 inches. 



Stajidard and Legal Measures a?id Sizes i 19 



Society and Customary Standards, continued. 

California. Sizes in Common Use for Local Markets. 
(Wickson.) 

Apple and Pear. — Top, bottom and sides of 3^-in. and ends of 
%-vbl. stuff. The length is 22 ins. ; ends 10 by 12 ins. This is 
called a 50-lb. box, but it contains less weight. 

Cherry.— ins. in length; ends by 3>£. 

Fio. — The two-layer fig-box is 20 ins. long; ends 2 by 3>^ ins., 
and holds about 20 lbs. The single layer is the same length and 
width, but 2 ins. deep and holds about 12 lbs. 

Grapes. — The same as that used for plums in distant shipment, 
except that the depth is usually 5 ins., and the contents about 25 
lbs. of fruit. Grapes are also shipped in 4-lb. splint baskets, of 
which 4 go in a half crate or 8 in a whole crate. 

Melons. — Cantaloupe crates 38 ins. long, 16 ins. wide and 15 
ins. deep. Watermelons come in bulk in cars or in large cases of 
all descriptions. 

Oranges.— Flat boxes 22 ins. long, ends 1% by ins. It is 
divided into two parts by a central partition. The prevailing 
orange-box at present is about 26% ins. long, ends 11^ ins. 
square, with a central partition. 

Small Fruits.— Chests or crates which contain 10, 15 or 20 
drawers. The drawers are 15% ins. long, ends 8)^ by 1% ins. 
The sizes have been constantly decreasing. The old drawers 
held 5 lbs. of strawberries ; the present weight is about 4 lbs. 

Packages for Dried Fruits. — 25-lb. box: Inside measure- 
ments— length, 13% ins. ; width, 9% ins. ; depth, 5% ins. Outside 
measurements— length, 15^ ins. ; width, 10^ ins. ; depth, 6% ins. ; 
top, bottom and sides, % of an in. thick ; ends % of an in. thick. 

A More Flat Package : Inside measurements — length, 16 ins. ; 
width, 9 ins. ; depth, 5 ins. Outside measurements— length, 17)^ 
ins. ; width, 9% ins. ; depth, h% ins. Top, bottom and sides, % 
of an in. thick ; ends, % of an in. thick. 

Fifty-Pound Box : Inside measurements— length, 15)^ ins. ; 
width, 9 ins. ; depth, 9 ins. Outside measurements— length, \1% 
ins. ; width, 10 ins. ; depth, 10 ins. Top, bottom and sides, % in. 
thick; ends, 1 in. thick. 



120 The Horticulturist' s Rtile-Book, 



Society and Customary Standards, continued. 

Sacks for Dried Fruit. — White cotton sacks, made of what 
is called heavy export goods, are used for shipment of dried 
fruits. They are 20 by 36 ins., and hold about 80 lbs. of fruit. 

Raisins. — 20-lb. raisin-box, 19% ins. long, ends 9 by 4% ins. 
Half box, same length and width, depth, 2% ins. ; quarter box, 
same length and width, depth, 1% ins. ; eighth box, 15% ins. long, 
ends 6 by 1% ins. 

California Packages for Eastern Shipment as Adopted 
by the Fruit Union of that State. 

The ends of all boxes should be made of %-in. stuff, and all 
cleats of % -in. stuff. The sides, tops and bottoms of cherry 
boxes should be %-in. stuff: the sides made of two strips, each 
of J£-in. stuff and % of an in. in width. Peach, pear and plum 
boxes should be made of -iV m - stuff. All the lumber used should 
be dressed as smooth as possible. 

Cherry-boxes, capacity 10 lbs. Outside measurements— IS ins. 
in length; 10% ins. in width; 3 ins. in depth. Inside measure- 
ments—length, 16% ins. ; width, ins. : depth. 2% ins. 

Plum-boxes, capacity 20 lbs. Outside measurements — 19% ins. 
in length, 12% ins. in width, 4t% ins. in depth. Inside measure- 
ments — length, 8% ins. : width, 11% ins. ; depth, 4 ins. 

There are four sizes of peach and apricot-boxes : 

First, capacity 22 lbs. Outside measurements — 19% ins. in 
length, 12% ins. in width, 4% ins. in depth. Inside measure- 
ments—length, 18% ins. ; width. 11% ins. ; depth, ±% ins. 

Second, capacity 25 lbs. Outside measurements — 19% ins. in 
length, 12% ins. in width, 5% ins. in depth. Inside measure- 
ments — length, 18% ins. ; width. 11% ins. ; depth, 4% ins. 

Third, capacity 27 lbs. Outside measurements — 19% ins. in 
length, 12% ins. in width, 5% ins. in depth. Inside measure- 
ments — length, 18% ins. ; width, 11% ins. ; depth, b% ins. 

Fourth, capacity 30 lbs. Outside measurements — 19% ins. in 
length, 12% ins. in width, 6% ins. in depth. Inside measure- 
ments — length, 18% ins. : width, 11% ins. ; depth, 5% ins. 

Pear-boxes, capacity 40 lbs. Outside measurements — 19% ins. 
in length, 12% ins. in width, S% ins. in depth. Inside measure- 
ments— length, 18% ins. ; width, 11% ins. ; depth, 8% ins. 



Standard and Legal Measures and Sizes. 121 



Society and Customary Standards, continued. 

Miscellaneous.— Prunes are graded by running' them over 
screens of various degrees of coarseness. The meshes should be 
oblong, 2 ins. or more in length for all the sizes, the widths vary- 
ing as stated in the table below. The California French prunes 
are usually sorted in six sizes, by using the following methods : 

Width of mesh for Width of mesh for 
Grade. green prunes. dried prunes. 

Extras, 40 to 50 to pound 1% inch \% inch. 

No. 1,50 to 60 " m " \% " 

No/ 2, 60 to 70 m " 1 

No. 3, 70 to SO " 1 " % " 

No. 4, 80 to 90 " % % u 

No. 5, 90 to 100 u % " % 11 

Watermelons are usually sorted into three grades. Of the 
largest size, about 6 melons are placed in a barrel. Of medium 
size, about 8 (4 melons in each of two layers), and of the smallest 
size, 10 to 12. A truck-load of melons comprises about 200 fair- 
sized fruits. A car-load numbers from 1,000 to 1,500. 

Cocoanuts are packed for shipment in bags which hold 100. 

" Ekimis " branded upon boxes of Smyrna figs means A No. 1, 
or Superior Selected. ' ' Eleme ' 1 means Selected, the second grade. 

6. Covent Garden (London) Measures. 

Sea-kale Punnets. — 8 ins. diameter at the top, 7% ins. at the 
bottom, and 2 ins. deep. 

Radish Punnets. — 8 ins. diameter and 1 inch deep, if to hold 
6 hands ; or 9 ins. by 1 in. for 12 hands. 

Mushroom. — 7 ins. by 1 in. 

Salad Punnets. — 5 ins. by 1 in. 

Sieve. — Contains 7 imperial gals. Diameter, 15 ins. ; depth, 8 
ins. A sieve of peas is equal to 1 bu. A sieve of currants, 12 qts. 

Hale-Sieve. — Contains 3}^ imperial gals. It averages 12% ins. 
in diameter and 6 ins. in depth. 

Bushel Sieve. — 10% imperial gals. Diameter at top, 11%" ins. ; 
at bottom, 17 ins. ; depth, W% ins. 

Bushel Basket ought, when heaped, to contain an imperial 
bushel. Diameter at bottom 10 ins,, at top 14% ins. ; depth, 17 ins. 



122 The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Covent Garden (London) Measures, continued. 

Walnuts, nuts, apples and potatoes are sold by this measure. A 
bu. of the last-named, cleansed, weighs 56 lbs., but four pounds 
additional are allowed if they are not washed. 
A junk contains % of a bu. 

Pottle. — A long tapering basket that holds rather over a pint 
and a half. A pottle of strawberries should hold }4 a gal. , but 
never holds more than 1 qt. A pottle of mushrooms should 
weigh 1 lb. 

Hand applies to a bunch of radishes, which contains frtfm 12 
to 30 or more, according to the season. 

Bundle contains from 6 to 12 or 20 heads of broccoli, celery, 
etc. ; sea-kale, 12 to 18 heads ; rhubarb, 20 to 30 stems, according 
to size ; asparagus from 100 to 150. 

Grapes are put up in 2-lb. and 4-lb. punnets ; new potatoes by 
the London growers in 2-lb. punnets. Apples and pears are put 
up in bu. sieves or half -sieves. A hundredweight of Kentish fil- 
berts is 104 lbs. Weights are always 16 ozs. to the lb. 

Bunch. — Radishes, 12 to 24 ; carrots, 12 and upwards ; turnips, 
12 and upwards ; leeks, 6 and upwards. 

A roll of celery contains 6, 8, to 12 heads or roots. 

A score of lettuce or endive is 22. 

A tally is 5 dozen. 




Flowers are the friends of all, and we look with 
amazement at the person who cannot find some amount 
of pleasure in their study. 

— Hilderic Friend. 



CHAPTER XIV. 



Tables of Measures and Weights. 

Dry Measure. 

2 pints = 1 quart. 

8 quarts — 1 peck. 

4 pecks =1 bushel. 

5 bushels (480 pounds) = 1 quarter. 

30 bushels = 1 chaldron. 

bu. pk. qt. pt. 

1 = 4 = 32 = 64 

1 = 8 = 16 
1=2 

Liquid Measure. 

4 gills = 1 pint. 

2 pints = 1 quart. 

4 quarts =1 gallon. 

31)^ gallons = 1 barrel. 

2 barrels or 63 gallons =1 hogshead. 

gal. qt. pt. gi. 
1 = 4 = 8 — 32 
1 = 2=8 
1=4 

Apothecaries' Fluid Measure. 

60 minims = 1 fluidrachm. 

8 fluidrams = 1 fluidounce. 

16 fluidounces = 1 pint. 

8 pints = 1 gallon. 

(123) 

/ 



124 



The Horticulturist 's Rule- Book. 



Apothecaries' Fluid Measure, continued. 

cong. o. f. f. m. 

1 _ .8 = 128 ' — 1,024 = 61,440 

1 = 16 — 128 — 7,680 

1 = 8 = 480 

1 — 60 

One minim equals 1 drop of water. 

Line or Linear Measure. 







. . = 1 foot. 








5% yards, or 16^ feet . 






40 rods 






8 furlongs (320 rods) 




. . = Imile (statute mile) 








mi. fur. rd. 


yd. 


ft. in. 


= 3 = 24 = 960 = 


5,280 


= 15,840 = 190,080 


1 = 8 — 320 — 


1,760 


= 5,280 = 63,360 


1 = 40 = 


220 


— 660 — 7,920 


1 — 




=• 16^ — 198 




l 


— 3 = 36 



1 — 12 

Surveyors' or Chain Measure. 

7.92 inches = 1 link. 

25 links =1 rod or pole. 

4 rods, or 66 feet = 1 chain. 

80 chains = 1 mile. 

mi. ch. rd. 1. in. 

1 = 80 — 320 = 8,000 — 63,360 
1 = 4 — 100 = 792 
1 = 25 — 198 

1 = 7.92 

Square or Surface Measure. 

144 square inches =1 square foot. 

9 square feet =1 square yard. 

30^ square yards =1 sq. rod or perch. 

160 square rods =1 acre. 

640 acres = 1 sq. mile or section. 



Tables of Measures and Weights. 125 



Square or Surface Measure, continued. 

sqm. a. sq. rd. sq. yd. sq.ft. sq. in. 

1 = 040 102,400 — 3,097,600 — 27,878,400 = 4,014,489,600 

1 = 160 — 4,S40 = 43,560 = 6,272,640 

1 — 30)4 = 272% = 39,204 

1 — 9 — 1,296 

1 — 144 



Surveyors' Square Measure. 



625 square links = 1 square rod, or pole. 

16 poles = 1 square chain. 

10 square chains = 1 acre. 

640 acres = 1 square mile or sec. 

36 square miles (6 miles sq.) . . . = 1 township, 
tp. sq. mi. a. sq. ch. sq. rd. sq. 1. 



1 = 36 — 23,040 = 230,400 =- 3,6S6,400 = 2,304,000,000 



Solid or Cubic Measure. 



1728 cubic inches = 1 cubic foot. 

27 cubic feet = 1 cubic yard. 

16 cubic feet =1 cord foot. 

8 cord feet, or 128 cubic feet . . . = 1 cord of wood. 

24% cubic feet — 1 perch. 

ru. yd. cu. ft. cu. in. cd. cd. ft. cu. ft. cu. in 
1 — 27 — 46,656 = 1 — 8 = 128 — 221,184. 

Avoirdupois, or Commercial Weight. 

21\\ grains =1 dram. 

16 drams = 1 ounce. 

16 ounces = 1 pound. 

25 pounds = 1 quarter. 

4 quarters, or 100 pounds . . . . = 1 hundredweight. 
20 hundredweight, or 2,000 lbs. . = 1 ton. 

480 pounds = 1 imperial quarter. 

100 pounds is also called 1 central. 

t. cwt. lb. oz. dr. gr. 

1 = 20 = 2,000 = 32,000 — 512,000 
1 = 100 = 1,600 = 25,600 

1 = 16 = 256 = 7,000 
1 = 16 — 4,375 



The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Troy, or Jewelers' Weight. 

24 grains =1 pennyweight. 

20 pennyweights = 1 ounce. 

12 ounces ==-1 pound. 



lb. 


oz. 


pwt. 


gr. 


1 = 


12 


240 — 


5,760 




1 


= 20 — 


480 






1 — 


24 



Apothecaries' Weight. 



20 grains — 1 scruple. 

3 scruples = 1 dram. 

8 drams = 1 ounce. 

12 ounces = 1 pound. 

lb. oz. dr. scr. gr. 

1 = 12 — 96 — 288 — 5,760 
1 — • 8 — 24 — 480 
1=3= 60 
1 = 20 



Table of Comparative Weights. 

Avoirdupois. Troy. Apothecaries'. 

7,000 gr. — lib. 5,760 gr. =- 1 lb. 5,760 gr. = 1 lb. 

lib. = 1 T V ? lbs. — l^lbs. 

or 144 lbs. = 175 lbs. — 175 lbs. 

loz. = xlf oz. — HI oz. 

or 192 oz. = 175 oz. = 175 oz. 



Miscellaneous Tables. 

j 2 of an inch = a line (American). 

xo of an inch = a line (French) . 

3 inches = a palm. 

4 inches = a hand. 

9 inches . . . . = a span. 

18 inches ..... = a cubit. 

2% feet = a military pace. 

3 feet — a 'pace. 

A wine gallon — 231 cubic inches. 

A dry gallon = 268.8 " 



Tables of Measures and Weights. 127 



Miscellaneous Tables, continued. 

An imperial gallon = 277.274 cubic inches. 

A U. S. bushel =2,150.42 " 

A U. S. bushel heaped =2,688 

An English bushel =2,218.192 " 

1 pint of water weighs 1.0431 lbs. 

1 gallon of Avater weighs 8.3450 lbs. 

1 cubic foot of water weighs 62.425 lbs. at 39.2° F. 

An English (statute) mile is ... . 1,760 yards. 

A Scotch mile is 1,984 " 

An Irish mile is 2,240 " 

A Dutch mile is 8,101 " 

A Roman mile is 1,628 " 

A German mile is 6,859 " 

A Russian mile is 1,100 " 

An Arabian mile is 2,148 " 

A sea (nautical) mile is 2,026 " 

Equivalents of Metric Measures of Capacity. 

Metric denominations. Dry measure. Liquid measure. 

1 mililiter . . . = .001816 pts. = .0338 fl.oz. 

1 centiliter . .= .01816 pts. = .338 fl.oz. 

1 deciliter . . = .181625 pts. = .84539 gi. 

1 liter = .908128 qts. = 1.056745 qts. 

1 decaliter . .= 9.08128 qts. = 2.64186 gals. 

1 hectoliter . . = 2.8379 bus. = 26.4186 gals, 

lkiloliter . . .= 28.379 bus. = 264.186 gals. 

1 myrialiter . . = 283.79 bus. = 2641.86 gals. 

Equivalents of Metric Linear Measure. 

Equivalents in English 
measure. 

1 millimeter = .03937 inches. 

1 centimeter = .3937 " 

1 decimeter = 3.93707 " 

1 meter = 39.37079 " 

1 decameter = 32.80899 ft. 

1 hectometer = 19.88423 rods. 

1 kilometer = .62138 mile. 

1 myriameter ==- 6.21382 miles. 



8 



The Horticulturist ' s Rule- Book. 



Equivalents of Metric Square Measure. 

1 sq. centimeter = .155 sq. in. 

1 sq. decimeter = 15.5 sq. in. 

1 sq. meter = 1.19603 sq. yds. 

1 sq. decameter . = 119.6034 sq. yds. 

1 sq. hectometer = 2.47114 sq. rds. 

1 sq. kilometer = .3861 sq. miles. 

Equivalents of Metric Cubic Measure. 

1 cu. centimeter = .061027 cu. in. 

1 cu. decimeter = 61.02705 cu. in. 

1 cu. meter, or stere = 35.31658 cu. ft. 

Equivalents of Metric Weights. 

1 miligram = .015432 gr. troy. 

1 centigram = .15432 gr. troy. 

1 decigram 1.54324 gr. troy. 

1 gram = 15.43248 gr. troy. 

1 decagram K . . . = .35273 oz. avoir. 

1 hectogram = 3.52739 oz. avoir. 

1 kilogram = 2.20462 lbs. avoir. 

1 myriagram = 22.04621 lbs. avoir. 

1 quintal = 220.46212 lbs. avoir. 

1 tonneau or ton = 2204.62124 lbs. avoir., or 

1.10281 tons. 



The works of a person that builds, begin immediately 
to decay; while those of him who plants begin directly 
. > improve. 

— WILLIAM SHENSTONE, 1764. 



CHAPTER XV. 



Miscellaneous Tables, Figures and Notes. 

1. Quantity of Water Held by Pipes of Various Sizes. 

Diameter of Contents of 100 Feet 

Bore. in Length. 

% hi .84 gals. 

1 " 3.39 " 

7.64 " 

2 44 13.58 " 

" • - - 21.22 " 

3 " 30.56 " 

4 44 54.33 " 

5 44 84.90 44 

6 44 122.26 44 

2. Number of Gallons in Circular Tanks and Wells. 

To find the contents in gallons of circular tanks, etc.. square 
the diameter in feet, multiply by the depth, and then multiply 
by 5 875. 

GALLONS WHEN THE DEPTH IS 

Diam- , A ^ 

tier. 3 ft. 4 ft. $ ft- 6 ft. 7 ft. 8 ft. gft. 10 ft. 11 ft. 12 ft. 

4 ft. 282.00 376.00 470.00 564.00 658.00 752.00 846.00 940.00 1034.00 1128.00 

5 " 440.63 587.50 734.38 881.25 1028.13 1175.00 1321.89 . 146^.76 1615.63 1762.50 

6 " 634.50 846.90 1057.50 1269.00 1480.50 1692.00 1903.50 2115.00 2326.50 2538.00 

7 " 863.63 1151.50 1439.38 1727.25 2015.13 2303.00 2590.89 2878.76 3166.63 3454.50 

8 " 1128.00 1504.00 1880.00 2256.00 2632.00 3008.00 3384.00 3760.00 4136.00 4512.00 

9 " 1427.63 1903.50 2379.38 2855.26 3331.13 3806.00 4282.89 4758.76 5234.63 5710.52 

10 " 1762.52 2350.00 2937.52 3525.00 4112.52 4700.00 5287.56 5875.04 6461.52 7050.00 

11 M 2132.63 2843 50 3554-38 4265.26 4976.12 5687.00 6397-89 7108.76 7819.43 8530.52 

12 " 2538.00 3384.00 4230.00 5076.00 5922.00 6768.00 7614.00 8460.00 9306.00 10152.0c 

(129) 



130 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 

3. Number of Gallons in Square-Built Tanks. 

To find the number of gallons in any square or oblong vessel 

multiply the number of cubic feet contained in it by 7.4805. 

Size of Tank. ' 3 ft. 4 ft. 5 ft. 

deep. deep. deep. 

6 by 3 feet 403.9 53S.5 673.2 

6 " 4 " 538.5 T1S.0 897.6 

6 - 5 " 673.2 897.6 1122.0 

6 6 " 807.8 1077.1 1346.4 

7 " 4 « 628.3 837.7 1047.2 

7 " 5 " 7S5.4 1047.2 1309.0 

7 " 6 " 942.4 1256.6 1570.8 

7 " 7 " 1099.5 1466.0 1832.6 

8 " 4 m 717.0 957.4 1196.S 

8 " 5 " 897.6 1196.8 1496.0 

8 " 6 " 1077.1 1436.1 1683.0 

8 " 7 " 1256.6 1675.5 2094.4 

8 " S " 1436.1 1914.8 2393.6 

9 " 5 " 1009.8 1346.4 16S3.0 

9 " 6 " 1211.7 1615.6 2019.6 

9 k< 7 " 1413.7 1SS4.9 2a56.2 

9 v " 8 " 1615.6 2154.2 2692.8 

9 " 9 " 1817.6 2423.5 3029.4 

10 u 5 " 1122.0 1496.0 1870.0 

10 " 6 " 1346.4 1795.2 2244.0 

10 7 " . 1570.8 2094.4 2618.0 

10 " S " 1795.2 2393.6 2992.0 

10 " 9 " 2019.6 2692.8 3366.0 

10 11 10 " 2244.0 2992.0 3740.0 

11 44 6 " 1481. 1974.7 2468.4 

11 " 7 " 1727.8 2303.8 2879.8 

11 " 8 <{ 1974.7 2632.9 3291.2 

11 " 9 " ■ .2221.5 2962.0 3702.6 

11 " 10 " 246S.4 2521.2 4114.0 

11 " 11 " 2715.2 3620.3 4525.4 

12 " 6 ki 1660.5 2154.2 2692.S 

12 11 7 " 1SS4.9 2513,2 2141.6 

12 " 8 u 2154.2 2S72.3 3590.4 

12 " 9 " 2423.5 3231.3 4039.2 

12 " 10 " 2692.8 3590.4 44SS.0 

12 " 11 - 2962.0 3949.4 4936.8 

12 kt 12 *' 3231.3 4308.4 5385.6 



Miscellaneoics Tables, Figures a?id Notes. 131 



4. Thermometer Scales. 

Fahrenheit. — The freezing-point is taken as the 32d. degree of 
the scale, and ISO degrees are made between that and the boiling- 
point, which therefore becomes 212°. 

Centigrade or Celsius. — The freezing-point of water is taken as 
zero, and boiling-point as 100°. 

Reaumur. — The freezing-point of water is taken as zero, the 
boiling-point as 80°. 

A degree Centigrade is therefore greater than a degree of 
Fahrenheit as nine is greater than five ; and a degree of Reau- 
mur is greater, as nine is greater than four. 

To reduce Fahrenheit degrees to Centigrade, subtract 32 from 
the given degree of Fahrenheit and multiply the remainder by 5 
and divide it by 9 : (F.°— 32) f . 

To reduce Centigrade to Fahrenheit, multiply the given degree 
of Centigrade by 9 and divide the product by 5, then to the quo- 
tient add 32: (fC.°+32). 

To reduce Fahrenheit to Reaumur, subtract 32 from the given 
degree of Fahrenheit and multiply the remainder by 4 and divide 
by 9: (F.°— 32)}. 

To reduce Reaumur to Fahrenheit, multiply the given degree of 
Reaumur by 9 and divide by 4, then add 32 : (|R.° -f- 32) . 

5. Effects of Wind in Cooling Glass. 

(Leuchars.) 



Velocity of Wind Time required to lower Temperature 

per hour. from 120 to 100 Fahr. 

3.26 miles 2:58 minutes. 

5.18 " 2:16 

6.54 " . 1:91 

8.86 " 1:66 " 

10.90 " 1:50 " 

13.36 " 1:25 " 

17.97 " 1:08 11 

20.45 " 1:00 

24.54 " :91 " 

27.27 " -.81 " 



132 The Horticulturist" s Rule-Book. 



Per Cent, of Rays of Light Reflected from Glass Roofs at 
Various Angles of Divergence from the Perpendicular. 

(Bouguer. ) 

1° 2.5 per cent. 

10° 2.5 

20° 2.5 

30° 2.7 

40° 3.4 

50° 5.7 

60° 11.2 

70° . . 22.2 

80° 41.2 

85° .... 54.3 



Area of Glass in Various States and Provinces, used for 
Commercial Greenhouse Purposes. 

(Stewart.) 



Glass in use 
previous 
to 1887. 

Alabama 50,000 

Arkansas 14,474 

California 213,660 

Connecticut 

Delaware 79,100 

District of Columbia . . 125,000 

Florida 20,000 

Georgia 33,100 

Illinois 1,422,533 

Indiana 142,866 

Iowa 125,580 

Kansas . 31,600 

Kentucky 320,400 . . . 

Louisiana 24,420 11.400 

Maine 102,033 19,130 

Maryland 185,526 29,908 

Massachusetts 1,375,000 53,000 

Minnesota 138,500 22,600 

New Hampshire ...... 86,450 11,825 

New Jersey 2,114,245 297,529 



, IIS 

For cut- 


CREASE IN 

For 


e88 7 , 

Total 


flowers. 


plants. 


increase. 


3,000 


6,780 


9,780 


8,188 


4,150 


12,338 


59,810 


32,200 


92,010 


35.071 


17,551 


52,622 




3,000 


3,000 


37.100 


4,000 


41,000 


20,000 


10.000 


30,000 


2,400 


500 


2,900 


12,676 


36,824 


99,500 


20,575 


23,240 


43,815 


27,900 


13,110 


41,010 


1,800 


2,250 


4,060 



7,600 
4.000 



5,600 
3,275 
59.504 



19,000 
23,130 
29,908 
53,000 
28,200 
15,100 
357,033 



Miscellaneous Tables, Figtires and Notes. 133 



Area of Glass for Commercial Greenhouse Purposes, continued. 

Glass in use , INCREASE IN 1887- 





previous 


For cut- 


For 


Total 




to 1887. 


flowers. 


plants. 


increase. 






60.700 


19,250 


79.950 


North Carolina . . . 


15.400 


# 1,500 


4,500 


6,000 


Ohio 


. . . 1.378.929 


67,000 


50,230 


117,230 






183.050 


83.576 


266,626 


Rhode Island .... 


93.771 


13.918 


1,000 


14,918 


South Carolina . . . 


3,300 


3.825 




3,825 




62.200 


9,636 


6.500 


16,136 


Texas 


18.600 


3,800 


5,9S0 


9,780 




. . . 37,950 


7,700 


7,200 


14,900 


Virginia 


. . . 53.S6S 


15,240 


5,200 


10,040 


West Virginia . . . 


19.800 








Wisconsin 


, 148,230 


24.S06 


3,127 


27,933 




176,498 






61,500 




103.696 


12.790 


8.577 


21,367 



8. National and Party Flowers. 



Canada Sugar-Maple. 

China Narcissus. 

Egypt Lotus (Nympluea Lotus). 

England Rose. 

France Fleur-de-lis (Iris). 

Germany Corn-flower (Centaurea Cyanus). 

Greece (Athens) . . . Violet. 

Ireland Shamrock (Tri folium, usually 

T. repens). 

Italy Lily. 

Japan Chrysanthemum. 

Prussia Linden. 

Saxony ........ Mignonette. 

Scotland Thistle. 

Spain Pomegranate. 

Wales Leek. 



Beaconsfield's followers Primrose. 

Bona partis ts Violet. 



134 The Horticulturists Rule- Book. 



National and Party Flowers, continued. 

Ghibellines White lily. 

Guelphs Red lily. 

Prince of Orange The orange. 

g. Dates at which Various Fruits and Nuts Appear In North- 
ern Markets. 

(From New England Grocer.) 

Nuts. — Peanuts, about the first of November. 
Walnuts — French, Naples and Grenoble— about the middle of 
November. 
Pecans, about the same time as walnuts. 
Filberts, about the first of November. 
Castanas, early in March. 

Almonds, shelled about October first, and Ivica and Princess 
about forty-five days later. 
Shellbarks, October first. 

Baracoa cocoanuts begin to come during the latter part of March 
and the first of April. 
Chestnuts, late in September. 

Dried Fruits.— Citron (Leghorn), October first. 
Currants, the middle of October. 

Dates, Fard about the middle of November, and Persian about 
December 12. 

Prunes, French, about the middle of October, and Turkish a 
month or so later. 

Raisins, Malaga fruit — which includes loose Muscatels, 2, 3, 4 
and 6-crown, and Imperial Cabinet layers, B. B., Empire Cluster? 
Royal and Imperial — begin to put in appearance about the first of 
November. California raisins begin to come early in October. 
Sultana raisins are due about October first, and New Valencias 
about the same time. 

Foreign Green Fruit. — Oranges— Messina, Valencia and 
Palermo, and ail Mediterranean fruit, early in December. 

Florida oranges generally begin to arrive the first of November. 
Jamaicas get here the middle of September. 

Lemons — Messina, Valencia and Palermo, and all Mediterra- 
nean fruit. December first. 



Miscellaneous Tables, Figures and Notes. 135 

Dates Fruits and Nuts Appear in Northern Markets, continued. 

Aspinwall. Cuban. Jamaica and Baracoa bananas come the 
year round, every month in the year, and about every day in the 
month a portion of the time — certainly every week in each month. 

Pineapples, mostly Havanas. come whenever there is a demand 
for them, the year round. Florida pines come during the latter 
part of May and the first of June. 

Grapes. Malagas, are due about October first. 

New figs begin to come along about the same time. 

Domestic Green Fruit. — Apples, new, early in August. 
Russets generally make their appearance upon the market early 
in the winter, and Gravensteins in December. 

Pears. September. 

Peaches, Jersey, latter part of August and early in September. 
Dela wares early in August. 

Plums, all along from August first to the middle of November. 

Grapes, Haniburgs. are in the market about all the year round. 
s ave. perhaps, three or four months. Catawbas arrive about the 
middle of August, and Ives about the same time. 

Berries. Blueberries, usually in July. Blackberries are liable 
to arrive any time in June. 

Watermelons are with us from the first of June to the first of 
September. 

Cantaloupes. Early in July, lasting about three months. 
10. What Constitutes Wholesale Quantities. 

The wholesale fruit-dealers of Washington. D. C. have adopted 
the following rules to govern the least quantities of fruits to be 
sold at wholesale rates : 

B ax anas. — Not less than one bunch. 

Apples. — Not less than one barrel or box as received ; no pack- 
ages to be broken. 

Pine apples.— Not less than twenty-five. 

Oranges. — Not less than one box : no packages to be broken. 
Lemons. — Not less than one box : no packages to be broken. 
Grapes of all kinds.— Not less than five baskets. 
Malaga Grapes. — By the keg only. 

Peaches. — Not less than one box or one-bushel crate, or not 
less than five baskets : no packages to be broken. If in half- 
bushel lots, not less than two. 



i3fi 



The Horticulturist's Ride-Book. 



What Constitutes Wholesale Quantities, continued. 

Pears. — One box or barrel; if in baskets, not less than five. 

Watermelons.— Not less than twenty-five. 

Mtjskmelons. — Not less than twenty-five. 

Strawberries and all other Berries. — LNbt less than a 
thirty-two quart crate, unless small quantity received. A sixty- 
quart crate may be halved. An exception made with raspberries : 
not less than fifteen quarts. In February and March, straw- 
berries, not less than fifteen quarts. 

ii. Average Price In France of Various Orchid Flowers. 

(Orchido-phile.) 

From 20 to 25 centimes*: Dendrobium ndbUe, Wardii. 

30 centimes : Cypripedium insigne. Masdcvallia Lindeni Harryana. 
ignea, Ycitchii, Odontoglossum Pcscatorei, Rossi. 

From 30 to 60 centimes: Odontoglossikm crispum (Alexandra), 
trium pilaris. Jutco-purpurcu m. ScTdicperianum. lnsleayi Cattlcya 
amctTiystina, Skinneri. 

From GO to 75 centimes: Cypripedium viUosum. Harrisianum 
Spicehanum, Box alii. 

From 1 franc to 1 franc and 25 centimes : Odontoglossum grande, 
Lycaste Shinneri (price sometimes as low as 50 centimes), 
Cadogyne cristata (per truss). Cattlcya labiata. Mossicc, Percivaliana, 
Gaskeliana. Perrini, Pinelli, clegans, Triance. 

From 1 franc and 50 centimes to 2 francs: Various Vandtis : 
Cattleya Domiana. 

Trusses of Aerides and Saccolabium sell from a franc and a 
half to 3 francs, or even for 5 francs for extra-good specimens. 

12. Weights of Various Varieties of Apples per Bushel. 

The following varieties, just from the trees in October, gave 



the following weights : 


Pounds 




Pounds 






Fallawater .... 


48 






Golden Russet . . 


. .... 53 






Lawver 


47 


Bunker Hill 


, 49 




51 






Northern Spy . . . 


46 


Esopus Spitzenburg . 


. . . 44 




47 



* A centime is about one-fifth of a cent, and a franc is about 20 cents. 



Miscellaneous Tables, Figures and Notes. 137 



Weights of Various Varieties of Apples, continued. 





Pounds 




Pounds 


Rambo 


50 


Swaar 


. ... 51 


Rhode Island Greening 


... 52 




... .39 


Roxbury Russet . . . 


. 50 


Talman Sweet . . . 


.... 48 




. . 46 


Tompkins King . . . 


... 44 








... .46 



13. Various Recipes and Rusle. 

Black ink for zinc labels. — Verdigris, 1 ounce; sal ammoniac, 11 
ounce; lamp-black, % ounce; rain water, % pint. Mix in an 
earthenware mortar or jar and put up in small bottles. To be 
shaken before use and used with a clean quill pen on bright zinc. 

To keep flower-pots clean. — When the pots are cleaned, soak 
them a few hours in ammoniacal carbonate of copper (recipe, 
p. 40.) Soak them about once a year. 

To prevent boilers from filling with sediment or scale.— 1. Ex- 
ercise care to get clean water and that which contains little lime. 
2. Blow it out often. It can be blown out a little every day, and 
occasionally it should be blown off entirely. 3. Put slippery-elm 
bark in the boiler tank. Or, if slippery-elm is not handy, use 
potato-peelings, flax-seed, oak-bark, spent tan or coarse sawdust. 
4. Put in, with the feed-water or otherwise, a small quantity of 
good molasses (not a chemical syrup), say % pt. to 1 pt. in a 
week, depending upon the size of boiler. This will remove and 
prevent incrustation without damage to the boiler. These vege- 
table substances prevent in a measure, by mechanical means, 
ihe union of the particles of lime into incrustations. 

Cutting glass bottles. — 1. Pass 5 or 6 strands of coarse packing- 
twine round the bottle on each side of where you want it divided, 
so as to form a groove % inch wide ; in this groove pass one turn 
of a piece of hard-laid white cord, extend the two ends and fasten 
to some support. Saw the bottle backwards and forwards for 
a short time; after a minute's friction, by a side motion of the 
bottle throw it out of the cord into a tub of water, and then tap 
on the side of the tub and the bottom will fall off. 

2. Fill the bottle the exact height you wish it to be cut, with 
oil of any kind ; dip, very gradually, a red-hot iron into the oil. 
The glass suddenly chips and cracks all round, then the upper 
surface may be lifted off at the surface of the oil. 



138 



The Horticulturist* s Rule- Book. 



Various Recipes and Rules, continued. 

3. For cutting off bottoms of bottles, make a slight nick with a 
file, and then mark round with a streak of ink where you want 
it to come off. Make an iron red-hot and lay it on the nick. 
This will cause it to expand and crack, then by moving the rod 
round, the crack will follow. 

To preserve wooden labels. — Thoroughly soak the pieces of 
wood in a strong solution of copperas (sulphate of iron) ; then 
lay them, after they are dry, in lime-water. This causes the 
formation of sulphate of lime, a very insoluble salt, in the wood. 

Liquid putty for glazing. — Take equal parts, by measure, of 
boiled oil, putty and white lead. Mix the putty and oil, then 
add the white lead. If the mixture becomes too thick, add 
turpentine. Apply with a putty-bulb. 

To prepare paper and cloth for hotbed sash. — 1, Use a sash with- 
out bars, and stretch wires or strings across it to secure as a 
rest for the paper. Procure stout but thin manila wrapping- 
paper, and paste it firmly on the sash with fresh flour paste. 
Dry in a warm place and then wipe the paper with a damp 
sponge to cause it to stretch evenly. Dry agafn and then apply 
boiled linseed-oil to both sides of the paper, and dry again in a 
warm place. 

2. Saturate cloth or tough thin manila paper with pure raw 
linseed-oil. 

3. Dissolve \% lbs. white soap in 1 qt. water ; in another quart 
dissolve \% oz. gum arable and 5 ozs. glue. Mix the two liquids, 
warm and soak the paper, hanging it up to dry. Used mostly 
for paper. 

4. 3 pts. pale linseed-oil ; 1 oz. sugar of lead ; 4 ozs. white rosin. 
Grind and mix the sugar of lead in a little oil, then add the other 
materials and heat in an iron kettle. Apply hot with a brush. 
Used for muslin. 

Waterproof paper. — Waterproof paper, transparent and imper- 
vious to grease, is obtained by soaking good paper in an aqueous 
solution of shellac and borax. It resembles parchment paper in 
some respects. If the aqueous solution be colored with aniline 
colors, very handsome paper, of use for artificial flowers, is pre- 
pared. 



Miscellaneous Tables, Figures and Notes. 139 



Various Recipes and Rules, continued. 

Cow-dung is highly prized by many gardeners for use in potting 
soil. It is stored under cover and allowed to remain until dry, 
being turned several times in the meantime to pulverize it. 
Manure-water is made either from this dried excrement, or from 
the fresh material. When made from the fresh material, the 
manure-water should be made weaker than in the other case. 

To find the bushels of shelled corn in a crib or bin of corn in the 
ear, divide the cubic contents by 2. 

To find the number of bushels of potatoes, apples, etc., in a bin, 
multiply the cubic contents by 8 and point off one figure in the 
product. 

To find the tons of hay in a mow or stack, divide the cubic 
contents by about 510, if the hay is not well settled, or by about 
4H0 if the hay is well packed. 

Aproximate value of household measures: 

1 teaspoonful equals 1 dram. 

1 dessertspoonful equals 2 teaspoonfuls, or 2 drams. 

1 tablespoonful equals 2 dessertspoonfuls, or 4 teaspoonfuls. 

2 tablespoonfuls equal 8 teaspoonfuls, or 1 ounce. 

1 common size wineglass ful equals 2 ounces, or 3^ gill. 

A tea-cup is estimated to hold 4 fluidounces, or 1 gill. 

1 pound of wheat is equal to about 1 quart. 

1 pound and 2 ounces of Indian meal is equal to 1 quart. 

1 pound of soft butter is equal to about 1 pint. 

1 pound of sugar is equal tc about 1 pint. 

14. Various Figures. 

From 7 to 12 bushels of apples are required for a barrel of 
cider. 

A bushel of average apples jjjives from 6 to 7 pounds of evapor- 
ated product. 
Product of Dried Raspberries (W. J. Green) : 



Ohio 9 lbs. to the bushel. 

Gregg S% " 

Hilborn fy4 " " 

Ada 83^ " " 

Tyler 8^ " 

Shaffer 8 " " 



140 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Various Figures, continued. 

Raspberries contain from V/ 2 to 3 lbs. of seeds to the bushel. 

A pint of garden blackberries weighs about one pound. 

Good clusters of American grapes weigh on an average from 
one-half to three-fourths pounds, while extra-good clusters will 
reach a pound and a half. Clusters have been reported which 
weighed two pounds. 

A bushel of sweet-corn ears, "in the milk," with the husks 
which come from it, weighs from 50 to 70 lbs. 

There are about 5,000 honey-bees in a pound. 



Samples of Dates on the Title-Pages of Old Books. 



io 


is . 500 


M.DXLIX 


1549 


MccccTxjij 


. is . 1-163 


MIqL or MDL ... 


. 1550 


MccccLxxz . . . 


. . 1472 


M.D.VIL 


1554 


MccccTz 


1472 


00 DLXVI 


1566 


Mcccc. II 


1472 


oo DLXX 


1570 


Mccccxxc 


. 1480 


CIoIqL, xxvi ..... 


1576 


MCCCCinjXXVIII 


. . . 1488 


cloIoLXXX 




Miiiic iiii x Vlij . . 


. . 1488 


CIqIqXXC 


1580 


MCD XCV . . . . . 


1495 


ClQloXXCI 


1581 


M. YD 


1495 


oo DXXCII 


15S2 


MiiijD 


. 1496 


MCCCCCLXXXIII . . . 


. 1583 


MjjjD 


1497 


CIC 10 xxcvl 


1586 


MIII.D 


1497 


00 D XXCIIX 


1588 


MCCCCXCviii 


1498 


qICIq XX CIIX .... 


1588 


MID 


1499 


Mdxc 


1590 


McdXciX 


1499 


cioiocc 


1700 


MccccID ...... 


1499 


ClQloCCL.CIoDCCL . 


. 1750 


MCCCCXCViiij 


1499 


ClQ.IoCCIXCI . . . - 


1791 


MCDXCIX 


1499 


CIqIoCCC 


1S00 


M cccc iCi 


1500 


MDCCC 


. 1800 


MD 


1500 




1800 


MCDCII 


. . , 1502 







CHAPTER XVI. 



Rules. 

i . Loudon's Rules of Horticulture. 

1. Perform every operation in the proper season and in the 
best manner. 

2. Complete every operation consecutively. 

3. Never, if possible, perform one operation in such a manner 
as to render another necessary. 

4. When called off from any operation, leave your work and 
tools in an orderly manner. 

5. In leaving off work, make a temporary finish, and clean 
3'our tools and carry them to the tool-house. 

6. Nerer do that in the garden or hothouses, which can be 
equally well done in the reserve ground or in the back sheds. 

7. Never pass a weed or an insect without pulling it up or tak_ 
ing it off, unless time forbid. 

8. In gathering a crop, take away the useless as well as the 
useful parts. 

9. Let no plant ripen seeds, unless they are wanted for some 
purpose, useful or ornamental, and remove all parts which are in 
a state of decay. 

2. Rules of Nomenclature. 

1. RULES FOR NAMING FRUITS, 

Adopted by the American Pomological Society : 

1. The originator or introducer (in the order named) has the 
prior right to bestow a name upon a new or unnamed fruit. 

2. The society reserves the right, in case of long, inappro- 
priate, or otherwise objectionable names, to shorten, modify or 
wholly change the same when they shall occur in its discussions 
or reports; and also to recommend such names for general 
adoption. 



(141) 



142 The Horticulturist' s Rule-Book. 



Rules of Nomenclature, continued. 

3. The names of fruit should, preferably, express as far as 
practicable by a single word the characteristics of the variety, 
the name of the originator, or the place of its origin. Under no 
ordinary circumstances should more than a single word be em- 
ployed. 

4. Should the question of priority arise between different 
names for the same variety of fruit, other circumstances being 
equal the name first publicly bestowed will be given preference. 

2. RULES FOR NAMING KITCHEN-GARDEN VEGETABLES. 

As adopted by the committee on nomenclature of the Association 
of American Agricultural Colleges and Experiment Stations : 

1. The name of a variety shall consist of a single word, or at 
most of two words. A phrase, descriptive or otherwise, is never 
allowable ; as Pride of Italy, King of Mammoths, Earliest of All. 

2. The name should not be superlative or bombastic. In par- 
ticular, such epithets as New, Large, Giant, Fine, Selected, Im- 
proved, and the like, should be omitted. If the grower or dealer 
has a superior stock of a variety, the fact should be stated in the 
description immediately after the name, rather than as a part of 
the name itself; as, " Trophy, selected stock." 

3. If a grower or dealer has secured a new select strain of a 
well-known variety it shall be legitimate for him to use his own 
name in connection with the established name of the variety : as 
Smith's Winnigstadt, Jones's Cardinal. 

4. When personal names are given to varieties, titles should be 
omitted; as. Major, General, etc. 

5. The term hybrid should not be used except in those rare in- 
stances in which the variety is known to be of hybrid origin. 

6. The originator has the prior right to name the variety, but 
the oldest name which conforms to these rules should be adopted. 

7. This committee reserves the right, in its own publications, 
to revise objectionable names in conformity with these rules. 

3. WORK OF THE SOCIETY OE AMERICAN FLORISTS. 

This society adopted a resolution demanding reform in names 
of ornamental plants, at the meeting of 1SSS. and a committee was 
appointed. Definite reform has not yet been inaugurated, how- 
ever, except in matters of synonymy. 



Rules. 



H3 



3. Rules for Exhibition. 

1. AMERICAN POMOLOGICAL SOCIETY RULES. 

For Exhibitors. 

1. A plate of fruit must contain six specimens— no more, 
no less — except in the case of single varieties not included in col- 
lections. 

2. To insure examination by the proper committees, all fruits 
must be correctly and distinctly labeled, and placed upon the 
tables during the first day of the exhibition. 

3. The duplication of varieties in a collection will not be per- 
mitted. 

4. In all cases of fruits intended to be examined and reported 
by committees, the name of the exhibitor, together with a com- 
plete list of the varieties exhibited by him, must be delivered to 
the secretary of the society on or before the first day of the ex- 
hibition. 

5. The exhibitor will receive from the secretary an entry-card 
which must be placed with the exhibit, when arranged for ex- 
hibition, for the guidance of committees. 

G. All articles placed upon the tables for exhibition must re- 
main in charge of the society till the close of the exhibition, to be 
removed sooner only upon express permission of the person or 
persons in charge. 

7. Fruits or other articles intended for testing, or to be given 
away to visitors, spectators or others, will be assigned a sepa- 
rate hall, room or tent, in which they may be dispensed at the 
pleasure of the exhibitor, who will not, however, be permitted 
to sell and deliver articles therein, or to call attention to them 
in a boisterous or disorderly manner. 

For the Guidance of Examining and Awarding Committees. 

1. In estimating the comparative values of collections of fruits, 
committees are instructed to base such estimates strictly upon 
the varieties in such collections which shall have been correctly 
named by the exhibitor prior to action thereon by the committee 
on nomenclature. 

2. In instituting such comparison of values, committees are in- 
structed to consider: 1st, the values of the varieties for the 



144 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Rules for Exhibition (Am. Pom. Society), continued, 
purposes to which they may be adapted ; 2nd, the color, size, and 
evenness of the specimens ; 3rd, their freedom from the marks of 
ins.ects and from other blemishes ; 4th, the apparent carefulness in 
handling, and the taste displayed in the arrangement of the ex- 
hibit. 

2. MASSACHUSETTS HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY RULES. 

Special Rules of the Fruit Committee. — 1. All collections and 
single dishes of fruit offered for prizes at any exhibition must 
have marked upon the cards the numbers of the prizes for which they 
are offered. 

2. All fruits offered for premiums must be correctly named. 
Indefinite appellations, such as " Pippin," ''Sweeting," " Green- 
ing," etc., will not be considered as names. 

3. All fruits offered for premiums must be composed of exactly 
the number of specimens or quantity named in the schedule. A 
'•dish" of apples, pears, peaches, plums, nectarines, quinces, 
figs, apricots, etc., is understood to contain twelve specimens, 
and this number will be required of all fruits when not other- 
wise specified. 

4. The whole quantity required of any one variety of fruit 
must be shown in a single dish or basket. 

5. Contributors of fruits for exhibitions or prizes must present 
the same in the Society's dishes. All small fruits must be shown 
in baskets, not more than an inch and three-quarters in depth, 
which will be furnished to the exhibitors by the superintendent, 
at cost. Market-baskets will not be allowed on the tables. 

6. No person can compete for more than one prize with the 
same variety or varieties of fruit, except that a single dish may 
be of the same variety — but not the same specimens — as one of a 
collection ; and also that the same variety — but not the same 
specimens — may compete for both special and regular prizes. 

7. Grapes grown on girdled vines cannot compete for a 
premium. 

8. All fruits offered for prizes [exceptions noted] , and those for 
foreign grapes must be of outdoor culture. 

The Fruit Committee, in making their awards, will consider 
the 11a vor, beauty and size of the specimens, comparing each of 
these properties with a fair standard of the variety. The 



Rules. 



H5 



Rules for Exhibition (Mass. Hort. Society), continued, 
adaptation of the variety to general cultivation will also be taken 
into account. Other things being equal, specimens most nearly 
in perfection as regards ripeness wiil have the preference. 

Special Rules of the Vegetable Committee. — 1. The specimens 
offered must be well-grown, and placed on the tables clean, cor- 
rectly labeled, and fully complying with the Rules and Regula- 
tions of the Society. 

2. Special gratuities will be awarded for well-grown varieties 
from under glass, previous to the opening exhibition. 

3. All vegetables offered for premiums must be composed of 
exactly the number of specimens or quantity named in the 
schedule. 

4. All vegetables offered for premiums at any exhibition must 
have marked upon the cards the numbers of the prizes fur which they 
arc offered. 

5. Prizes will not be awarded when the articles are judged un- 
worthy. 

6. Non-compliance with the rules will cause the rejection of 
the articles offered for premium. 

Special Rules of the Flower Committee. — 1. All named varieties 
of plants or flowers exhibited for premiums must have the name 
Uijibly and correctly written on stiff card, wood, or some other 
permanent substance ; and each separate plant or flower must 
have its name attached. 

2. All plants, flowers, bouquets, designs, etc., offered for prizes 
at any exhibition, must have marked upon the cards the numbers of 
t)\e prizes for which they are offered. 

3. Plants in pots, to be entitled to prizes, must evince skillful 
culture in the profusion of bloom, and the beauty, symmetry 
and vigor of the specimens. 

4. All exhibitors not strictly complying with the above rules 
will U3 excluded from competition for premiums. 

5. No gratuities will be awarded on other than regular prize 
days, except for objects of special merit. 

3. MICHIGAN HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY RULES. 

For Exhibitors. — Entries may be made for exhibition without 
competition ; and if worthy, the awarding committee is expected 
to notice them properly in its reports. 



146 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 

Rules for Exhibition (Mich. Hort. Society), continued. 

No article entered for competition in one class will be per- 
mitted to compete for a premium in any other, except as herein- 
after expressly provided. 

Each entry of collection of fruits must be accompanied by a 
correct list of the varieties of each class of fruits, named in the 
order of their maturity as nearly as may be. No premiums will 
be awarded in the absence of such list. 

Fruits will be valued by committees according to their adapta- 
tion to the requirements under which they are entered. A really 
superior dessert fruit, if entered in a market collection, can only 
receive credit for its value for the market, as given in the 
Society's catalogue; and, vice versa, market varieties found in a 
dessert or family collection must be adjudged by their proper 
value for family purposes. 

A plate of fruit, unless otherwise specified, must contain five 
specimens — no more, no less. Of those usually designated ' ' small 
fruits," the exhibit must be one pint of each variety. Of crab- 
apples and plums, one dozen of each variety. Of dried fruits^ 
one quart of each separate variety or article. Jellies, canned, 
pickled and preserved fruits may be entered and shown in glass 
vessels, of such character and capacity as are commonly em- 
ployed for family or market purposes. 

Flowers, plants, evergreens, and such other articles as the 
fancy of the exhibitor may suggest, may be freely employed in 
the ornamentation of exhibits, in any manner that shall not 
essentially interfere with the examinations of committees or the 
general designs of decoration ; and full weight will be given to 
such ornamentation by the awarding committees in rendering 
their awards. 

The entry-card furnished by the secretary, specifying the class 
and number of the entry, must in all cases be placed in con- 
nection with the articles to which it appertains, as a guide to 
committees. 

Articles when entered, named and arranged for exhibition will 
thenceforth be strictly under the control of the officers in charge 
of the exhibition, and neither exhibitors nor spectators will be 
permitted to handle them, except by permission of the proper 
officer. 

Any exhibitor having been awarded a premium upon an article, 
and removing the same prior to the close of the exhibition with- 



Rules. 



147 



Rules for Exhibition (Mich. Hort. Society), continued. 

out permission of the officer in charge, will by so doing forfeit 

his right to such premium. 

The name of the fruit should in no case appear on the entry- 
card, except only in the case of single plates or other single 
articles. 

Entry-cards, name-cards, and the cards of the committee on 
nomenclature, should, for the convenience of awarding commit- 
tees and other officers, be each of a different color, or otherwise 
printed in different-colored inks. 

Exhibitors will not be permitted to sell and deliver the arti- 
cles they may have entered for exhibition, or to bring fruit or 
any other article for the purpose of sale, on a penalty of for- 
feiture of all premiums, but such articles must remain in charge 
of the officers until the close of the exhibition. 
* Any exhibitor interfering with awarding committees while in 
discharge of their duties, will be held, by so doing, to have for- 
feited all premiums. 

For Awarding Committees. — 1. The division superintendent will 
be a member and clerk of the awarding committee for his divis- 
ion. The remaining members of each committee will be selected 
with great care from the best horticulturists of this and neigh- 
boring states. The names of such persons will not be made 
public until the time of the fair. 

2. Members of the awarding committee are requested to report 
to the president, at the secretary's office, on or before noon of the 
second day of the fair, that the places of those failing to report 
may be supplied. 

3. The president is chairman of the committee on nomencla- 
ture ; but to expedite the business of correction the superinten- 
dent of each division will correct the nomenclature of his division, 
appealing to the chairman in all doubtful cases, and attaching 
the committee's card in all cases in which corrections are made. 

4. No exhibitor will be permitted to act on a committee in a 
class in which he shall exhibit for premiums. 

5. Members of the awarding committee are requested to re- 
port to the president, at the secretary's office, at 1 o'clock p. m. 
on Thursday, when they will receive their committee books, to- 
gether with such explanations and instructions as may at the 
time seem needful. 



148 The Horticulturist 's Rule-Book. 



Rules for ExMMtion ^Mich. Hort. Society), continued. 

6. Upon conclusion of their labors, not later than the afternoon 
of Friday, awarding committees will deliver their reports to 
the president, who will examine them, and in case of insufficiency 
or omission will return them with instructions. When accepted 
by the president, they will be delivered to the secretary. 

7. When an exhibit is not deemed worthy of a premium, the 
committee will withhold the award. 

8. A majority of an awarding committee, when present, shall 
constitute a quorum, and of those present, the first on the list 
shall act as chairman, unless the committee shall arrange other- 
wise. 

9. Awarding committees, in estimating the comparative values 
of exhibits, are instructed to base such estimates strictly upon 
the varieties in such collections that shall be correctly labeled by 
the exhibitors prior to the corrections of the committee on nomen- 
clature. 

10. In awarding premiums upon any and all exhibits of fruits, 
committees will exclude any and all unlabeled and incorrectly 
labeled specimens, as well as duplicates, and consider: 1st, the 
value of the varieties for the required purpose, as given in the 
Society's Catalogue of Fruits ; 2d, the color, size and evenness of 
the specimens ; 3d, their freedom from the marks of insects and 
other blemishes ; 4th, the apparent carefulness in handling and 
the tastefulncss of the exhibit, recollecting that the gradations 
of the catalogue call for perfect specimens. These gradations 
should, therefore, be correspondingly lowered in case of deficien- 
cies or imperfections. A copy of the catalogue will, for this pur- 
pose, be furnished to each committee. In grading collections 
entered for family purposes, the dessert and culinary subcolumns 
should be consulted, and the gradation expressing the highest 
value taken. For market, the gradations of the market sub- 
column only should be employed. 

11. In the case of fruits not named in the catalogue, for the 
dessert, committees should consider: 1st. quality; 2d. beauty: 
3d, size. For culinary uses: 1st, flavor; 2d, texture; 3d, size. 
For market: 1st, productiveness: 2d, color; 3rd, handling qual- 
ities: 4th, suitable, even size. 



Rules. 



149 



Rules for Exhibition (Mich. Hort. Society), continued. 

12. The true and legitimate purpose of the premiums offered is 
to draw out the views of both exhibitors and committees respect- 
ing the relative values, for the purposes specified, of the varieties 
included in the exhibits. 

13. The society desires to encourage the planting of only a 
sufficiently large variety of sorts for the desired purpose. Hence 
it is important that the committee, in their reports, specify, in 
the order of their value, the varieties upon which the determi- 
nation of their awards is based. 

14. Useful and valuable varieties only are expected to influence 
awards ; while indifferent sorts, even though large, showy and 
attractive, should not for these reasons alone be held to add to 
the value of an exhibit, except, possibly, as a means of education. 

15. An important object of the society is to collect valuable in- 
formation of a pomological character. Committees are therefore 
requested to gather all the information possible from the exhibi- 
tors in their classes, and to make their reports as full as time 
and circumstances will permit. 

1G. The society desires to foster a free exercise by exhibitors 
of the principles of correct taste in the arrangement, display and 
ornamentation of their exhibits. To this end, committees will 
give all reasonable and proper consideration to particulars of 
this character. 




If I could put my words in song, 
And tell what's there enjoyed, 

All men would to my garden throng, 
And leave the cities void. 



— Emerson. 



CHAPTER XVII. 



Postal Rates and Regulations. 

i. Classes of Domestic Mail Matter, and Rates. 

First Class. — Letters, postal cards, and matter wholly or 
partly in writing, whether sealed or unsealed (except manuscript 
copy accompanying proof-sheets or corrected proof-sheets of the 
same), and all matter sealed or otherwise closed against inspec- 
tion. 

Rate. — Two cents per ounce or fraction thereof. Postal cards, 
one cent each. On " drop " letters, two cents per ounce or frac- 
tion thereof, when mailed at letter-carrier office ; and one cent 
per ounce or fraction thereof at other offices. 

Second Class. — Newspapers and publications issued at stated 
intervals as often as four times a year, bearing a date of issue 
and numbered consecutively, issued from a known office of pub- 
lication, and formed of printed sheets, without board, cloth, 
leather or other substantial binding. Such publications must be 
originated and published for the dissemination of information of a 
public character, or devoted to literature, the sciences, art, or 
some special industry. They must have a legitimate list of sub- 
scribers, and must not be designed primarily for advertising pur- 
poses, or for free circulation at nominal rates. 

Rate. — One cent per pound or fraction thereof when sent by 
publisher thereof and from office of publication, including 
sample copies, or when sent from news agency to actual subscri- 
bers or other news agents. 

One cent for each four ounces or fraction thereof on newspapers 
and periodical publications of second class, when sent by other 
than publisher or news agent. 

One cent each on newspapers (excepting weeklies) and peri- 
(150) 



Postal Rates and Regulations. 



Classes of Domestic Mail Matter, and Rates, continued, 
odicals not exceeding two ounces in weight, when deposited in 
letter-carrier office for delivery by carrier ; two cents each on 
periodicals weighing more than two ounces. 

One cent per pound on newspapers, other than weeklies, and 
periodicals when deposited by publisher or news agent in letter- 
carrier office for general or box delivery ; one cent for four ounces 
or fraction thereof when deposited by other than publishers or 
news agents, for general or box delivery. 

One cent per pound or fraction thereof on weekly newspapers 
deposited by publisher or news agent in letter-carrier office for 
letter or box delivery, or delivery by carrier ; one cent for each 
package not exceeding four ounces, and one cent for each adition- 
al four ounces or fraction thereof when deposited by other than 
publisher or news agent. 

Free when one copy is sent to each actual subscriber residing 
in county where same are printed, in whole or in part, and pub- 
lished ; but at rate of one cent per pound when delivered at letter- 
carrier office, or distributed by carriers. 

Third Class. — Books, periodicals and matter wholly in print 
(not included in second class), proof-sheets, corrected proof- 
sheets, and manuscript accompanying the same. 

" Printed matter" is the production upon paper, by any proc- 
ess except that of handwriting, of any words, letters, characters, 
figures, or images, or of any combination thereof, not having the 
character of an actual and personal correspondence. 

A "circular " is a printed letter, which, according to internal 
evidence, is being sent in identical terms to several persons. It 
is permissible to write, in circulars, the date, the name of the 
person addressed, or of the sender, and to correct mere typo- 
graphical errors. 

Rate. — One cent for each two ounces or fraction thereof. 

Fourth Class.— Merchandise ; namely, all matter not em- 
braced in the other three classes, and which is not in its form or 
nature liable to destroy,, deface or otherwise damage the contents 
of the mail-bag, or harm the person of any one engaged in the 
postal service, and not above the weight provided by law. In- 
cludes seeds and plants. 



152 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Classes of Domestic Mail Matter, and Rates, continued. 

Rate. — One cent per ounce or fraction thereof; or on seeds, 
cuttings, roots, scions and plants, one cent for each two ounces 
or fraction thereof. 



To Canada, Newfoundland and Mexico, the rates are the same 
as domestic postage. 

In the Universal Postal Union, which includes nearly all the 
countries of the world except New Zealand and most Australian 
provinces, rates are as follows : 

Letters, % ounce ... 5 cents. 

Postal cards, each. 2 " 

Newspapei and other printed matter, per 2 ounces ... 1 



The rates to New Zealand, New South Wales, Queensland, 
Victoria and Tasmania are: 12 cts. (per }■£ oz.) on first-class 
matter, 2 cents a copy for newspapers, 4 cents for single rate (1 
oz.) on printed matter other than newspapers and merchandise. 
Rates to China are 13 cents for a half ounce of first-class matter. 
5 cents for a single rate (1 oz.) on newspapers, 4 cents for a 
single rate (2 oz.) on other printed matter and merchandise. 
For Cape Colony, Natal, most of Morocco, and some other parts 
of Africa, and some islands, the rate is 15 cents on a half ounce 
of first-class matter. For Cape Colony and Natal, newspapers 
demand 4 cents for a single rate (4 oz.) , and other printed matter 
and merchandise 5 cents for a single rate (2 oz.) . 

3. Unmailable Matter. 

Held for Postage. — Domestic matter of first class on which two 
cents has not been prepaid, and all other domestic matter not 
fully prepaid. 



2. Foreign Postage. 




Postal Rates and Regulations. 



153 



Unmailafole Matter, continued. 

Misdirected. — Matter without address, or so incorrectly, insuf- 
ficiently or illegibly addressed that it cannot be forwarded to 
destination, including "nixies " or matter not addressed to a post- 
office, or addressed to a post-office without the name of the state 
being given, or otherwise so incorrectly, illegibly or insufficiently 
addressed that it cannot be transmitted. 

Destructive. — Matter of a harmful nature, poisons, explosive or 
inflammable articles, live animals, or dead animals not stuffed, 
fruits or vegetable matter liable to decomposition, conib-honey, 
guano, articles exhaling a bad odor, vinous, spirituous and malt 
liquors, liquids liable to explosion, spontaneous combustion, or 
ignition by shock or jar (for example, kerosene oil, naphtha, ben- 
zine, turpentine, etc.). Bees and dried insects or reptiles must 
be so put up as not to injure any one handling the mails, nor to 
soil mail-bags or their contents. 

Coin and Jewelry. — Coin, jewelry and other precious articles 
prohibited by postal treaty from being sent in the mails to for- 
eign countries. 

Scurrilous Matter. — Matter upon the envelope or outside cover or 
wrapper of which, or any postal-card upon which, any delinea- 
tions, epithets, terms, or language of an indecent, lewd, lascivious, 
obscene, libelous, scurrilous, defamatory or threatening char- 
acter, or calculated by the terms, or manner or style of display, 
and obviously intended to reflect injuriously upon the character 
or conduct of another, may be written or printed, or otherwise 
impressed or apparent. 

Obscene Matter. — Every obscene, lewd or lascivious book, pamph- 
let, picture, paper, letter, writing, print or other publication of 
an indecent character, and every article or thing designed or in- 
tended for the prevention of conception or procuring of abortion, 
and every article or thing intended or adapted for any indecent 
or immoral use, and every written or printed card, letter, circu- 
lar, book, pamphlet, advertisement, or notice of any kind giving 
information, directly or indirectly, where or how or of whom 
or by what means any of the hereinbefore-mentioned matters 
articles or things may be obtained or made, whether sealed as 
first-class matter or not. 

Lottery Matter. — Letters and circulars known to be concerning 



154 The Horticulturist" s Rule- Book. 



Unmailable Matter, continued. 

lotteries, gift-concerts, etc.. or concerning any scheme devised 
and intended to receive and defraud the public for the purpose 
of obtaining money under false pretenses. 

Mutilated. — Matter recovered from wrecked or burned mail- 
cars or vessels, or matter damaged so that it cannot be forwarded 
to destination. All matter found loose in the mails, separated 
from the wrapper, label or envelope containing the address, so 
that the direction cannot be known ; and the matter recovered 
from depredations on the mails and to be restored to the owners 
upon due proof of ownership. 

Excess of Weight and Size. — Packages of domestic third and 
fourth class matter, weighing more than four pounds (except 
single books and official matter emanating from the Departments 
at Washington) , and of foreign matter in excess of weight or 
size fixed by stipulation of postal treaty. 




lEv'n in tbc stifling bosom of tbc Cowii, 
B Oaroen in wbicb notbing tbrivcs bas cbarms 
'Cbat sootbe tbc ricb possessor ; mucb consoled 
'Cbat beve an£* tbcre some sprigs of mournful mint, 
Of nigbtsba£>cs or valerian, grace tbe wall 
Ifac cultivates* 

— Cowper. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 



Weather Signs and Protections from Frost. 

Stationary barometer indicates continuance of the present 
weather. 

Slowly rising barometer usually indicates fair weather. 

Slowly falling barometer indicates the approach of a severe 
storm. One-fifth to one-third of an inch is sufficient fall to give 
indications. 

Sudden rise of the barometer indicates the approach of a storm 
or the breaking-up of an existing storm. 

Sudden fall of the barometer indicates high winds and probable 
rain. 

When areas of low and high barometer are near together, 
heavy gales may be expected. 

Long lines of clouds extending up the sky from a common 
starting-point often fortell a storm from that quarter. 

When the fleecy or cirrus clouds settle down into horizontal 
bars or ribs in the upper sky, wet and foul weather may be ex- 
pected. This is the ''mackerel sky." 

If contiguous clouds move in various directions, rain is likely to 
follow soon. 

When small black clouds scud over an overcast sky, heavy rain 
and bad weather may be expected. 

Cumulus clouds that preserve a well-rounded form and float 
high in the air indicate fair weather. 

Anvil-shaped cumulus clouds usually indicate thunder-storms. 

In spring and fall, rain is often indicated by a dense bank of gray 
clouds in the east, in front of which are little shoals of blackish 
clouds. 

Cirro-cumulus clouds — like bunches and fleeces of wool scat- 
tered high in the sky— are indications of still and dry weather. 

(155) 



156 The Horticulturist's Rule-Book. 



When the rays of the rising sun shoot far up into the sky. fair 
weather may be expected. 

When the ray-like shadows of clouds overlie a hazy sky in the 
vicinity of the sun, rain is apt to follow. This is expressed in 
the phrase "the sun drawing water." 

Gaudy hues of blue and purple at sunset prophesy rain and 
wind. 

A bright red sunset means fair weather for the morrow. 

A pale and diffuse sun at setting portends a storm. 

If the sun sets in subdued purple and the zenith is pale blue* 
fair weather may be expected. 

A deep red morning sky is usually followed by bad weather. 

A rosy or gray morning sky means good weather. 

A sonorous condition of the atmosphere foretells rain. 

A bank of cloud across the southern horizon in winter indicates 
snow. It is frequently called the " snow-bank. " 

If the sun rises clear but becomes overcast within half an hour- 
prepare for rain. 

A halo about the moon indicates a rain-storm. 

If the sky is white or yellowish white nearly to the zenith after 
sunset, prepare for rain soon. 

Strong east winds indicate a storm. 

Haziness is indicative of dry weather. It is due to dust in the 
atmosphere. 

When haziness suddenly dissappears and the sun sets pale and 
the sky is very clear, rain is probable. 

When stars twinkle with unusual prominence, rain may be 
expected. 

Heavy dew indicates fair weather. 

Absence of dew for two or three mornings in succession in 
summer is a precursor of rain. 
To Predict Frost (Kedzie) : 

1. When the sunshine is very hot and the shade very cold and 
the shadows very deep. " there is frost in the air." because the 
aii 1 is very dry and radiation of heat little checked. 

2. When the dew-point is more than 10° F. above frost-point, 
there is little danger of frost. To find approximately the tem- 
perature of dew-point when the temperature of the air is between 



Weather Signs, and Protection from Frost. 157 



45° and 65° F., multiply the difference between the wet-bulb and 
dry-bulb thermometers by two and subtract the product from 
temperature of dry-bulb. If the remainder is above 42° F., there 
is little danger of frost. The nearer this remainder comes to 32°, 
the greater the danger of frost, especially if the air is still and 
clouds disappear at sunset. 

To Protect Plants from Light Fronts: 

1. Make a smudge in the garden or Vineyard at night when the 
frost is expected. Rubbish or litter and tar make the best 
smudge. 

2. Syringe the plants thoroughly at night-fall. 



Learn we of the winds, and the weather s changeful face, 
And what the ancestral haunts and habits he 
Of things that grow : — the loved of every place, 
And the rejected. 



-Vergil. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



Collecting and Preserving. 

i. Collecting and Preserving Plants. 

Collect samples of all parts of the plant, lower and upper 
leaves, stem, flowers, fruit, and in most cases roots. In small 
species, those two feet high or less, the whole plant should be 
taken. Of larger plants, take portions about a foot long. Press 
the plants between papers or '-driers." These driers may be 
any thick porous paper, as blotting-paper or carpet-paper, or, for 
plants that are not succulent or very juicy, newspapers in 
several thicknesses may be used. It is best to place the speci- 
mens in sheets of thin paper — grocer's tea-paper is good — and 
place these sheets between the driers. Many specimens can be 
placed in a pile. On top of the pile place a short board and a 
weight of 20 or 30 pounds. Change the driers every day. The 
plants are dry when they become brittle and when no moisture 
can be felt by the fingers. Some plants will dry in two or three 
days, while others require as many weeks. If the pressing is 
properly done the specimens w T ill come out smooth and flat, and 
the leaves will usually be green, although some plants always 
turn black in drying. 

Specimens are usually mounted on single sheets of white paper 
of the stiffness of very heavy writing-paper or thin Bristol board. 
The standard size of sheet is 11^x16^ inches. The plants may 
be pasted down permanently and entirely to the sheet, or they 
may be held on by strips of gummed paper. In the former case, 
Denison's fish-glue is the best gum to use. But one species or 
variety should be placed on a sheet. The species of a genus are 
collected into a genus cover. This cover is a folded sheet of 
heavy manila or other firm paper, and the standard size, when 
folded, is 12xl6X inches. On the lower left hand corner of this 

(158) 



Collecting a?id Preserving. 



159 



Collecting: and Preserving: Plants, continued. 

cover the name of the genus is written. A label should accom- 
pany each specimen upon the separate sheets. The specimens 
are now ready to be filed a way 011 shelves in a horizontal position. 
If insects attack the specimens, they may bo destroyed by fumes 
of bisulphide of carbon (see p. 9) or chloroform. In this ease it 
is necessary to place the specimens in a tight box and then insert 
the liquid. Usually, however, specimens are dipped in poison, 
and then dried before being mounted. 

Herbarium Poisons. — 1. 120 grains of arsenic acid dissolved 
in a quart of alcohol. The arsenic acid is very deliquescent and 
the bottle must be kept tightly corked. This is Dr. Gray's 
favorite preparation, and is used in the herbarium at Harvard 
University. 

2. Place as much corrosive sublimate in alcohol as the liquid 
will dissolve. If the poison is applied with a brush, care must 
be taken to avoid one with iron trimmings, as the sublimate cor- 
rodes the iron. 

3. Dissolve \% oz. of corrosive sublimate in 1 pt. of alcohol; 
add 2>^ nuidrachms of carbolic acid and apply with a paint-brush. 

4. 1 lb. of corrosive sublimate, 1 lb. of carbolic acid to 4 gals, 
of methylated spirit. 

Camphor, frequently renewed in each cabinet, is often suffi- 
cient to prevent the attack of insects. 

2. Preserving and Printing of Flowers and Other Parts 
of Plants. 

To Preserve the Color of Dried Flowers. — 1. Immerse 
the stem of the fresh specimen in a solution of 32 parts by weight 
of alum, 4 of niter and 1S6 of water for two or three days until 
the liquid is thoroughly absorbed, and then press in the ordinary 
way, except that dry sand is sifted over the specimen and the 
packet submitted to the action of gentle heat for twenty-four 
hours. 

2. Make a varnish composed of 20 parts of powdered copal and 
500 parts of ether, powdered glass or sand being used to make 
the copal dissolve more readily. Into this solution the plants are 
carefully dipped ; then they are allowed to dry for 10 minutes, 
and the same process is repeated four or five times in succession. 



160 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book, 



Preserving and Printing Flowers and Plants, continued. 

3. Plants may also be plunged in a boiling solution of 1 part of 
salicylic acid and 600 of alcohol, and then dried in bibulous paper. 
But this should be done very rapidly, violet flowers especially 
being decolorized by more than an instantaneous immersion. 

4. Red flowers which have changed to a purplish tint in drying 
may have their color restored by laying them on a piece of paper 
moistened with dilute nitric acid (1 part to 10 or 12 parts of 
water) , and then submitting them to moderate pressure for a few 
seconds; but the solution must not touch the green leaves, as 
they are decolorized by it. 

5. With Sulphur. (Quin.) Procure a chest about 3 or 4 ft. 
square, with a small opening in the under part of one side, to be 
closed by a bar, through which the basin containing brimstone 
must be put into the chest ; this opening must be covered inside 
with perforated tin, in order to prevent those flowers which hang 
immediately over the basin from being spoiled. Paper the inside 
to render it air-tight. When the chest is ready for use, nail 
small laths on two opposite sides of the interior, at a distance of 
about 6 inches apart, and on these lay thin round sticks upon 
which to arrange the flowers ; these should not be too close to- 
gether, or the vapor will not circulate freely through the vacant 
spaces around the flowers. When the chest is sufficiently full 
of flowers close it carefully, place a damp cloth on the sides of 
the lid, and some heavy stones upon the top of it; then take 
small pieces of brimstone, put them in a small flat basin, kindle 
and put through the opening in the bottom of the chest and shut 
the bar. Leave the chest undisturbed for twenty-four hours, 
after which time it must be opened, and if the flowers be suffi- 
ciently smoked they will appear white, if not, they must be 
smoked again. When sufficiently smoked, take the flowers out 
carefully and hang them up in a dry, airy place in the shade, and 
in a few days or even hours they will recover their natural color, 
except being only a shade paler. 

To give them a very bright and shining color, plunge them into 
a mixture of 10 parts of cold water and 1 of good nitric acid ; 
drain off: the liquid, and hang them up again the same as before. 
The best flowers for this process are asters, roses, fuchsias 
(single ones), spiraeas (red-flowered kinds, such as callosa, 
Douglasi, etc.), ranunculus, delphiniums, cytisus, etc. The 
roses should be quite open, but not too fully blown. 



Collecting and Preserving . 



161 



Preserving: and Printing: of Flowers and Plants, continued. 

6. In Sand. (Quin.) Dry the plants in clean silver sand, free 
from organic matter (made so by repeated washing, until the 
sand ceases to discolor the water) . Heat the sand rather high 
and mix with it by constant stirring a small piece of wax 
candle, which prevents the sand from adhering to the flowers. 
Have a box not higher than 3 inches but as broad as possible ; 
this box should have instead of a bottom a narrow-meshed iron- 
wire net at a distance of % inches from where the bottom should 
be. Place the box on a board and fill with sand till the net is 
just covered with a thin f layer of sand; upon this layer of sand 
place a layer of flowers, on that a layer of sand, then flowers, 
and so on ; the layers of sand should vary in thickness according 
to the kind of flowers, from % inch to ^ inch. 

When the box contains about three layers of flowers, it must 
be removed to a very sunny dry place, the best being close under 
the glass in an empty greenhouse, exposed to the full influence 
of the sun. After a week, if the weather is sunny and dry, the 
flowers will be perfectly dried; then the box is lifted a little, 
the sand falls gently through the iron net, and the flowers re- 
main in their position over the net without any disturbance 
whatever. 

They should then be taken out carefully and kept in a dry and, 
if possible, dark place, where no sun can reach them, and after- 
wards they will keep very well for many years. 

Care should be taken that the flowers are cut in dry weather 
and that while lying in the sand no part of a flower shall touch 
another part, as this always spoils the color and causes decay. 
Sand should be filled in between all the parts of the flower; 
therefore it is necessary to insert the double flowers in an erect 
position, in order to fill the sand between the petals, while most 
of the single flowers must be put in with the stalks upwards. 

To Keep Fresh Flowers. — If cut-flowers are not needed 
immediately, wet them and then wrap them in paper and place 
in a box in a cool place. Keep as cool as possible without freez- 
ing. 

The disagreeable odor which comes from flowers in vases is 
due to the decay of the leaves and stems in the water. There- 
fore remove all the lower leaves before putting flowers in vases. 



162 



The Horticulturist's Ride- Book, 



Preserving: and Printing: of Flowers and Plants, continued. 

Flowers that have stood in a vase for a day or so can be 
greatly refreshed if taken from the vase at night, thoroughly 
sprinkled and wrapped, stems, blossoms and all, as closely as 
possible in a soaked cloth, and laid aside until the morning. 
They will be much fresher than if they had been left in their 
vases, yet will not have bloomed out so much. Before thus 
laying them aside, and again in the morning, a bit of each stem 
should be cut off, as the end soon hardens. This ought also to be 
done once or twice a day, even if the flowers are kept constantly 
in their vases. Roses which have drooped before their time — as, 
for example, when worn on the dress — may be wonderfully re- 
vived if the stems, after being thus cut, are placed for ten min- 
utes in almost boiling water and then removed to cold water. It 
is also well to add a little charcoal or ammonia to the water in 
which flowers are standing. 

If salt is added to the water in which cut-flowers are kept, it 
will delay wilting and decay. 

Printing Plants. — 1. First, lightly oil one side of the paper, 
then fold in four, so that the oil may filter through the pores, and 
the plant may not come into direct contact with the liquid. The 
plant is placed between the leaves of the second folding, and in 
this position pressed (through other paper) all over with the 
hand, so as to make a small quantity of oil adhere to its surface. 
Then it is taken out and placed between two sheets of white 
paper for two impressions, and the plant is pressed as before. 
Sprinkle over the invisible image remaining on the paper a 
quantity of black-lead or charcoal, and distribute it in all direc- 
tions ; the image then appears in all its parts. With an assort- 
ment of colors the natural colors of plants may be reproduced. 
To obtain fixity, rosin is previously added to the black-lead in 
equal parts. Expose to heat sufficient to melt the rosin. 

2. The best paper to use is ordinary wove paper without water- 
marks; if it can be afforded, use thin drawing-paper. First 
select the leaves, then carefully press and dry them. If they bo 
placed in a plant-press, care must be taken not to put too great 
pressure on the specimens at first, or they will be spoiled for 
printing. An old book is the best for drying the samples to be 
used. Take printers' or proof ink, and a small leather dabber; 



Collecting and Preserving . 



Preserving: and Printing: of Flowers and Plants, continued. 

work a bit of ink about the size of a pea on a small piece of slate 
or glass with the dabber until it is perfectly smooth. A drop or 
two of linseed-oil will assist the operation. Then give the leaf a 
thin coating, being careful to spread it equally ; now lay the leaf 
ink downwards on a sheet of paper and place it between the 
leaves of an old book, which must then be subjected to a moder- 
ate pressure in a copying-press, or passed between the rollers of 
a wringing-machine. Impressions can be taken with greater 
rapidity by laying the book on the floor and standing uoon it for 
a few seconds. Soft book-paper is the best. Previous to 
using it. place a few sheets between damp blotting-paper, which 
causes it to take the ink still more readily. At first you will find 
that 3 T ou lay on too much ink. If the impression is too black, use 
the leaf again. If the midrib of the leaf is too thick, it must be 
shaved down with a sharp knife. 

3. Leaf-Prints. (Engle.) 1. A small ink-roller, such as 
printers use for inking type. 2. A quantity of green printers' 
ink. 3. A pane of stout window-glass (the larger the better) 
fastened securely to an evenly planed board twice the size of the 
glass. A small quantity of the ink is put on the glass and spread 
with a knife, after which it is distributed evenly by going over 
in all directions with the ink-roller. When this has been care- 
fully done, the leaf to be copied is laid on a piece of waste paper 
and inked by applying the roller once or twice with moderate 
pressure. This leaves a film of ink on the veins and network of 
the leaf, and by placing it on a piece of blank paper and apply- 
ing considerable pressure for a few moments the work is done, 
and when the leaf is lifted from the paper the impress remains 
with all its delicate tracery, faithful in color and outline to the 
original. 

To make the ink of proper consistency, add several drops of 
balsam copaiba to a salt-spoonful of ink. In case the leaf sticks, 
the ink is too thick. 

Skeletonizing Plants. 1. By Maceration. Place the leaves 
in water and allow them to remain in the same water for from 
three to four months, until the soft matter decays, and the stem 
may be taken in the hand and the refuse shaken away. There 
remains behind a network or skeleton of the original object, 



164 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book, 



Preserving- and Printing of Flowers and Plants, continued. 

which can be bleached with a little lime. Leaves and pods may 
both be treated satisfactorily in this manner. The pod of the 
" Jimson weed " or Datura Stramonium is a favorite for this pur- 
pose. 

2. By Chemicals. Chloride of lime, % lb. ; washing soda, ){ lb. 
Put the soda into 1J£ pts. boiling water (rain-water is best; and 
let it thoroughly dissolve. Put the chloride of lime in a large 
pitcher, and add same quantity of cold water. Stir well and 
cover closely to prevent the escape of the chlorine. When the 
soda-water is cool, pour it on the chloride of lime, stir well to- 
gether and cover tightly, leaving it for an hour or more. Then 
pour off very gently the clear liquid, which must be bottled 
tightly. 

This solution will remove fruit-stains from white goods, and 
will bleach any vegetable substances. When used for cotton or 
linen, it must be considerably diluted, and the goods well rinsed 
afterwards. m 

3. Perfumery. 

Permanent Attar or Otto or Roses. (Ellwanger.) — The roses 
employed should be just blown, of the sweetest-smelling kinds, 
gathered in as dry a state as possible. After each gathering, 
spread out the petals on a sheet of paper and leave until free 
from moisture ; then place a layer of petals in the jar, sprinkling 
with coarse salt ; then another layer of coarse salt alternating 
until the jar is full. Leave for a few days, or until a broth is 
formed ; then incorporate thoroughly and add more petals and 
salt, mixing thoroughly daily for a week, when fragrant gums 
and spices should be added, such as benzoin, storax, cassia-buds, 
cinnamon, cloves, cardamon and vanilla-bean. Mix again and 
leave for a few days, when add essential oil of jasmine, violet, 
tuberose and attar of roses, together with a hint of ambergris or 
musk, in mixture with the flower ottos, to fix the odor. Spices, 
such as cloves, should be sparingly used. 

Perfume Jar. — 1. One lb. of dried rose-petals bought at a 
drug-store, 4 ozs. of salt and 2 ozs. of saltpeter, on which put S 
drops of essence of ambergris, 6 drops of essence of lemon, 4 
drops of oil of cloves. 4 drops oil of lavender and 2 drops of es- 
sence of bergamot. 



Collecting and Preserving . 



165 



Perfumery, continued. 

2. One - half lb. common salt, ^ lb. saltpeter, X oz - storax, 
}4 doz. cloves, a handful of dried bay-leaves, and another handful 
of dried lavender-flowers. This basis will last for years, and 
petals of roses and other fragrant flowers gathered on dry days 
may be added annually, or powdered benzoin, chips of sandal- 
wood, cinnamon, orris-root or musk may be added. 

Lavender Bag. — One-half lb. lavender-flowers. y 2 oz. dried 
thyme and mint, % oz. ground cloves and caraway, 1 oz. common 
salt. Tie up in a linen bag, which is hung in a wardrobe. 

Orris-root is a good medium in which to place delicate per- 
fumes for perfumery-bags. 

4. Collecting and Preserving Insects. 

Flying insects are caught in a net made of musquito-bar, after 
the fashion of the minnow-net. The bar is made into a bag 
about a yard deep, and about a foot in width at the top. The 
opening is fastened upon a wire hoop, which is secured to a pole — 
as a broomstick. Insects are killed by placing them in a 
'•cyanide-bottle." This is prepared by placing two or three 
lumps of cyanide of potassium the size of a quail's egg in a 
museum-bottle or glass jar, covering the lumps with dry plaster 
of Paris, and then adding just enough water to make the plaster 
set. The fumes of the poison coming through the plaster quickly 
kill the insects. Keep the bottle corked. The cyanide is very 
poisonous and the fumes should not be inhaled. A very broad- 
mouthed bottle with glass stopple is best. Bugs and beetles can 
be pinned and mounted as soon as they are dead. It is custom- 
ary to pin beetles through the right wing-cover, and bugs — as 
squash-bug — through the triangular space between the wings. 
Butterflies, moths, bees, flies, etc., must be pressed to preserve 
the wings. This is done by placing on a " setting-board." This 
apparatus is a little trough with a crack at the bottom. The 
sides of the trough are made of thin bits of board, three or four 
inches wide and a foot or more long. These sides have very 
little slant. The crack in the bottom of the trough is left about 
a half -inch wide, and it is covered beneath with a strip of cork. 
The body of the insect is now placed lengthwise the crack, a pin 
is thrust through the thorax, or middle division of the insect, 
into the cork, and the wings are laid out on the sides of the 



The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Collecting and Preserving: Insects, continued. 

trough. The wings are held in place by strips of cardboard 
pinned over them. Take care not to stick the pins through 
the wings. In about two weeks the insects will be dry and stiff. 

Insects must be kept in tight boxes to keep other insects from 
devouring them. Cigar-boxes are good. Tight boxes with glass 
covers are generally used by collectors. Place sheets of cork in 
the bottom of the box to receive the pins. If insects attack the 
specimens, expose them in a tight box to vapors of bisulphide 
of carbon (see p. 9) or benzine. 



Happy the man whose wish and care 

A few paternal acres bound, 
Content to breathe his native air 
In his own ground. 

Whose herds with milk, whose fields with bread, 

Whose flocks supply him with attire; 
Whose trees in summer yield him shade, 
In winter, fire. 

Blest, who can unconcern'dly find 

Hours, days and years slide soft away 
In health of body, peace of mind, 
Quiet by day. 




—Pope. 



CHAPTER XX. 



Elements, Symbols and Analyses. 

i. The Elements and their Symbols, and the Composition 
of Various Substances. 



Aluminium . . 


. . Al. 




Hg. 


Antimony . . . 


Sb. 


Molybdenum . 


. . Mo. 


Arsenic ... 


As. 


Nickel 


Ni. 


Barium . . . . 


. . Ba. 




N 


Bismuth. . . . 


Bi. 




Os. 


Boron 


. . B. 


Oxygen . . . . 


. O 


Bromine. . . . 


Br. 




Pd. 




Cd. 


Phosphorus . . 


. . P. 


Caesium . . . 


. . . Cs. 


Platinum . . . 


Pt. 




Ca. 




. . K. 




. . C. 


Rhodium . . . 


Rh. 


Cerium . . . . 


. . Ce. 


Rubidium . . . 


Rb. 




♦CI. 


Ruthenium * . 


. . Ru. 


Chromium . . , 


. Cr. 


Scandium . . . 


. . Sc. 


Cobalt. . . . 


. . .Co. 


Selenium . . . 


. . Se. 


Columbium . . 


. . Cb. 


Silicon 


. . Si. 


Copper . . . . 


Cu. 




. . Ag. 


Didymium . . . 


, . . D. 




Na. 


Erbium . . . 


. . Er. 




. . Sr. 


Fluorine. . . . 


. . F. 




S. 


Gallium . . . . 


. . Ga. 




Ta. 


Glucinum 


. . . Gl. 




Te. 


Gold 


, Au. 


Thallium . . . 


Tl. 


Hydrogen , . 
Indium . . . 


. . H. 




Th. 


. . . In. 


Tin 


Sn. 


Iodine . . . . , 


i . . I. 




Ti. 


Iridium . . . . 


. . Ir. 




W. 




. . . Fe. 


Uranium . . . 


. . U. 


Lanthanum . . 


. . La. 




V. 




Pb. 




Y, 


Lithium . . . 


Li. 




Zn. 


Magnesium . 


. . . Mg. 




Zr. 


Manganese . 


. . . Mn. 







(167) 



1 68 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



The Composition of Various Substances. 



Acetic acid . . . . 

Ammonia 

Aniline 

Arsenious oxide . . 
Carbonic oxide . , 
Carbonic dioxide , 
Chloroform . . . 
Ferric oxide . . . 
Ferrous oxide . , 
Hydrochloric acid 
Mercuric oxide . 



C2H4O2 Nitric acid .... HNO3 

NH 3 Nitric oxide .... NO 
NH 2 (C 6 H 5 ) Nitrous oxide . . . N 2 

As 4 Og Nitric peroxide . . NO 2 

CO Sulphuretted 
C0 2 hydrogen .... H 2 S 

CHCI3 Sulphurous oxide . S0 2 

Fe 2 3 Sulphuric oxide . . SO 3 

FeO Sulphuric acid . . H0SO4 

.HC1 Water H 2 

HgO 



2. Analyses. 

Compiled from many reliable sources, largely from the labors 
of Drs. Goessmann and S. W. Johnson. 

(a.) Genekal Analyses oe Fruits and Fruit-Plants. 

1. Various Fruits. (Fresenius.) 



* 


a 

p 

m 


Free Acid. 


Albuminous 
substance. 


Pectous 
substance. 


Soluble 
matter. 


Water. 




6.83 


.85 


.45 


.47 


14.96 


82.04 


Apricots 


1.531 


.766 


.389 


9.283 


12.723 


82.115 


Austrian Grapes .... 


13.78 


1.020 


.832 


.498 


16.49 


79.997 


CultivatedStrawberries 


7.575 


1.133 


.359 


.119 


9.666 


87.474 


Cultivated Raspberries 


4.708 


1.356 


.544 


1.746 


8.835 


86.557 


Green Grapes 


2.96 


.96 


.477 


10.475 


15.19 


80.841 


Heart-Cherries .... 


13.11 


.351 


.903 


2.286 


17.25 


75.37 




9.193 


1.86 


.394 


2.031 


14.043 


84.707 






.612 


.463 


6.313 


9.39 


84.99 




7.00 


.074 


.26 


3.281 


10.90 


S3.95 


Red Currants 


4.78 


2.31 


.45 


.28 


8.36 


85.84 


Red Gooseberries . . . 


8.063 


1.358 


.441 


9.69 


11.148 


85.565 


Wild Raspberries . . . 


3.599 


1.980 


.546 


1.107 


7.500 


83.86 


Wild Strawberries . . 


3.247 


1.650 


.619 


.145 


6.398 


87.271 



Elements, Symbols and Analyses. 



•;ouj;xo 


L5.77 
17.57 
29.71 


-iu piouTuinqiv 


£>- CO 
iH Ol 

i 


•usy 


. 


•jaqn apiuQ 


2.68 
2.83 
1.78 




1.24 

2.05 

0.701 

0.243 

2.50 

0.146 

0.100 

0.076 
0.125 
0.166 




1.04 
0.26 
1.08 
0.84 
8.41 
8.07 
3.94 

4.51 
4.38 
0.97 
1.82 


uenns osoorvf-Q 


c 't io i* c i» i- c ci c cc cr. 

— O CO id CD rt" lO tO tt CO id 


•sppu aoa^ 

1 


x o ta © oi co 

co ia o — i - i-o t- c l— i m in oo 

eo QO o oo O CO 00 *0 t-h 


■upaojcl opriJO 


{ - lo oi ^ o m ci o 

CO O 01 — 05 CO O 01 O CO CO 00 
CO — X X i- X r- - x c z. 

i-Hr-tOOOOOi-HOOT-iO 




I- — 01 CC CO lO L- O X X CO CI 
01 rH X uO Ci i/: t- i— jlO 01 

* L ~ *3 X X fc>- X X X X X X 



. ©■g r g r § g g I n 



o 



IS, 



o 



170 



The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Analyses, continued. 

3. Strawberries, Average of 20 Varieties. (Stone.) 



Water 90.52 

Solids 9.4S 

Free acid 1.37 

Glucose 4.78 

Glucose after inversion 5.46 

Difference calculated as cane-sugar 0.58 

COMPOSITION OF DRY MATTER. 

Ash 6.53 

Crude fiber 16.35 

Ether extract 6.75 

Crude protein 10.51 

Non-nitrogenous extract 60 79 

4. Raspberries. (Weber.) 

Reliance. Gregg. 
Sugar 1.78 2.82 

Acid 0.92 0.64 

Seed 3.5 5.612 

Pectose, protein, combined acids, etc . . . 3.92 5.91 

Ash 0.43 0.42 

Fiber 0.32 0.48 

Water 89.13 84.12 

5. Peach, Branches. (Kedzie.) 

Diseased by 

Ash constituents. Healthy, yellows. 

Silica, SiQ 2 1.21 1.40 

Oxide of iron, Fe 2 3 0.92 0.84 

Lime, CaO 43.67 45.02 

Magnesia, MgO 2. 53 2.40 

Potash, K 2 7.07 4.93 

Soda, Na 2 1.88 2.33 

Phosphoric acid, P 2 5 7.20 6.03 

Sulphuric oxide, SO 3 0.54 0.83 

Carbon dioxide, C0 2 34.71 35.85 

Chlorine 0.07 0.11 

Moisture and loss 0.30 0.26 



Total 100.00 100.00 



Elements, Symbols and Analyses. 



171 



Analyses, continued. 

0. Poach, Fruit and Brandies. (Gocssmann.) 



As 11 Constituents. 



Ferric oxide, Fe.203 
Calcium oxide, CaO. 
Magnesium oxide, MgO. 
Phosphoric acid, P2O.5 . 
Potassium oxide, K 2 . 

Total 



Fruit- 
Crawford's Early 
peach, healthy. 


Fruit- 
Crawford's Early 
peach, diseased 
with yellows. 


Branch — 
Crawford's Early 
peach, restored. 


Branch — 
Crawford's Early 
peach, diseased 
with yellows. 


Pet- 


Per 


Per 


Per 


cent. 


cent. 


cent. 


cent. 


0.58 


0.40 


0.52 


1.45 


2.04 


4.08 


54.52 


04.23 


0.29 


5.49 


7.58 


10.28 


16.02 


18.07 


11.37 


8.37 


74.40 


71.30 


20.01 


15.07 


100.00 


100.00 


100.00 


100.00 



7. Fertilizing Constituents in the Ash of Fruits. (Goessmann.) 



Phosphoric 

Name. Potash. Soda. Lime. Magn. acid. 

Lombard Plums 70.59 . . . .13.20 2.17 7.44 

Peaches 74.40 ... 2.04 0.29 10.03 

Baldwin Apples 03.54 1.71 7.28 5.52 20.87 

Asparagus, stem 42.94 3.58 27.18 12.77 12.31 

" roots 5G.43 5.42 15.48 7.57 15.09 

Clinton Grapes 57.40 3.51 13.10 7.24 17.87 

Concord Grapes 02.29 . . . 15.50 1.70 18.49 

Cranberries 47.90 0.58 18.58 0.78 14.27 

White Currants 53.81 . . . 17.40 4.72 22.54 

Black Raspberries 50.00 . . . 19.44 9.00 20.47 

Blackberries 51.42 . . .17.22 5.30 24.13 

Blueberries 31.30 . . . 28.02 9.25 29.05 



172 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



(b) Analyses of Fruit and Garden Products with Ref- 
erence to their Fertilizing Constituents 

8. Analysis of Garden Crops and Fruits for Fertilizing Con- 
stituents. ( Wolff and Goessmann. ) 

ONE THOUSAND PARTS OF THE PLANTS CONTAIN: 



Name. 



Corn, kernels 

stalk and leaves . . 

Potato, tubers 

vines 

Peas, seed 

vines ... 

Beans, seed 

vines 

Carrots, roots 

leaves . . . 
Sugar Beet, roots . . . 

leaves . . . 
White Turnip, roots . . . 

leaves 

Swedish Turnip, roots . . 

leaves . 

White Cabbage, head . . 

roots . . 
Savoy Cabbage, head . . 

Cauliflower 

Horse-radish, roots . . . 
Spanish Radish, roots . . 

Parsnip, roots 

Artichoke, roots 

Asparagus, sprouts . . 
Common Onion, bulb . . 

Celery 

Spinach 

Common Lettuce .... 

Head Lettuce 

Roman Lettuce 

Cucumber ..... 

Pumpkin 

Rhubarb, roots 

stem and leaves 

Apples 

Pears 

Cherries 

Plums 

Gooseberries 

Strawberries 

Grapes 

seeds ... 



Water. 

1 


Nitrogen 


Ash. 


Potash. 


Soda. 


144. 


16.0 


12.4 


3-7 


0.1 


150. 


4.8 


45-3 


16.4 


0.5 


750. 


3-4 


9-5 


5-8 


0.3 


770. 


4-9 


19.7 


4-3 


0.4 


143- 


35-8 


23-4 


10. 1 


0.2 


160. 


10.4 


43-i 


9-9 


1.8 


150. 


39-o 


27 4 


12.0 


0.4 


160. 




40.2 


12.8 


3-2 


S50. 


2.2 


8.2 


3-0 


i-7 


822. 


5-i 


23-9 


2.9 


4-7 


815. 


1.6 


7-i 


3-8 


0.6 


897. 


3.o 


15-3 


4.0 


2.0 


920. 


1.8 


6.4 


2.9 


0.6 


898. 


3-o 


11. 9 


2.8 


1.1 


870 


2. 1 


7-5 


3-5 


O.d- 


884. 


3-4 


19-5 


2.8 


0.8 


900. 


3-o 


9.6 


4-3 


0.8 


890. 


2.4 


15-6 


5-8 


i-5 


871. 


5-3 


14.0 


3-9 


1-4 


104. 


4.0 


8.0 


3-6 


°-5 


767. 


4-3 


19.7 


7-7 


0.4 


933- 


1.9 


4-9 


1.6 


1.0 


793- 


5-4 


10. 


5-4 


0.2 


811. 




10. 1 


2.4 


0.7 


933- 


3-2 


5-o 


1.2 


0.9 


860. 


2-7 


7-4 


2-5 


0.2 


841. 


2.4 


17.6 


7.6 




923- 


4.9 


16.0 


2.7 


5-7 


940. 




8.1 


3-7 


0.8 


943- 


2.2 


10. 1 


3-9 


0.8 


925- 


2.0 


9-8 


2-5 


3-5 


956. 


1.6 


5-8 


2 4 


0.6 


900. 


1.1 


4.4 


0.9 


0.9 


743-5 


5-5 


28.8 


5-3 




916.7 


1-3 


17.2 


3-6 


0.3 


831. 


0.6 


2.2 


0.8 


0.6 


831. 


0.6 


3-3 


1.8 


0.3 


825. 




3-9 


2.0 


0.1 


838. 




2.9 


1-7 




903- 




3-3 


i-3 


0.3 


902. 




3-3 


0.7 


0.9 


830. 


i-7 


8.8 


5-o 


0.1 


no. 


19.0 


22.7 


6.9 


o-5 



Elements, Symbols and Analyses. 173 



Analysis of Garden Crops and Fruits, continued. 

ONE THOUSAND PARTS OF THE PLANTS CONTAIN; 



Namk. 


1 

Lime. 


Magnesia. 


Phosphoric 
acid. 


Sulphuric 
acid. 


Chlorine. 


Silicic acid. 


— . 


0.3 


i-9 


5-7 


0.1 


0.2 


o-3 




4-9 


2.6 


3-8 


2.4 


0.6 


I3-I 




0-3 


o-5 


1.6 


0.6 


0.3 


0.2 




6.4 


3-3 


1.6 


i-3 


1.1 


0.9 




I.I 


1-9 


8.4 


0.8 


0.4 


0.2 




15-9 


3-5 


3-5 


2-7 


2.3 


2.9 




1-5 


2.1 


9-7 


1.1 


0.3 


0.2 




1 1.1 


2.5 


3-9 


1.7 


3.i 


1.9 




0.9 


0.4 


1.1 


0-5 


0.4 


0.2 




7-9 


0.8 


1.0 


1.8 


2.4 


2.4 




0.4 


0.6 


0.9 


0.3 


0.3 


0.2 


leaves 


3-1 


i-7 


0.7 


0.8 


1.3 


1.6 


White Turnip, roots 


0.7 


0.2 


0.8 


0.7 


0.3 


0.1 




3-9 


0.5 


0.9 


1.1 


1.2 


0.5 


Swedish Turnip, roots 


0.9 


0.3 


1.1 


0.7 


05 


0.1 


leaves . . . . 


6-5 


0.8 


2.0 


2-3 


i-5 


2.1 


White Labbage, head 


1.2 


0.4 


1.1 


i-3 


0.5 


0.1 


roots 


2.8 


0.6 


1.4 


2.4 


i-3 


0.1 


Savoy Cabbage, head 


3-o 


o-5 


2.1 


1.2 


1.1 


0.7 




0.5 


0.3 


1.6 


1.0 


0.3 


0.3 


Horse-radish, roots . . 


2.0 


0.4 


2.0 


4-9 


0.3 


1-5 


Spanish Radish, roots ...... 


0.7 


0.2 


0.5 


0.3 


o.5 


Parsnip, roots 


1.1 


0.6 


1-9 


0.5 


0.4 


0.2 


Artichoke, roots 


1.0 


0.4 


1.1 


i-3 


o-5 


0.1 




0.6 


0.2 


0.9 


0.3 


0.3 


0-5 




1.6 


0.3 


1-3 


0.4 


0.2 


0.7 




2-3 


1.0 


2.2 


1.0 


2.8 


0.7 


Spinach 


1.9 


1.0 


1.6 


1.1 


1.0 


0.7 


Common Lettuce . 


0.5 


0.2 


0.7 


0.3 


0.4 


1-3 


Head Lettuce 


i-5 


0.6 


1.0 


0.4 


0.8 


0.8 




1.2 


0.4 


1.1 


0.4 


0.4 


0.3 




0.4 


0.2 


1.2 


0.4 


0.4 


0-5 




0-3 


0.2 


1.6 


0.1 




0.3 


Rhubarb, roots 


5-0 


1.6 


0.6 






stem and leaves 


3-4 


1.3 


0.2 










0.1 


0.2 


o-3 


0.1 




0.1 




0-3 


0.2 


0.5 


0.2 




0.1 


Cherries .... 


0.3 


0.2 


0.6 


0.2 


0.1 


0.4 




0-3 


0.2 


0.4 


0.1 




0.1 


Gooseberries 


0.4 


0.2 


0.7 


0.2 




0.1 




0-5 




0-5 


0.1 


0.1 


0.4 




1.0 


O.4 


1.4 


0.5 


0.1 


0.3 




5-6 


1.4 


7.0 


0.8 


0.1 


0.2 



174 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 

Analyses, continued. 

9. Apple-Pomace. 

Water 69.90 

Ash . . . 0.71 

Albuminoids 1.58 

Fiber 4.87 

Nitrogen-free extract 21.24 

Fat 1.71 



100.00 

10. Cranberry-Vines. 

Moisture at 100° C. . . .13.07 Phosphoric acid 0.268 

Nitrogen . 0.77 Magnesium oxide .... 0.253 

Ash constituents .... 2.45 Sodium oxide 0.0S0 

Ferric oxide 0.0S7 Potassium oxide .... 0.329 

Calcium oxide 0.404 Insoluble matter .... 0.834 

11. Corn-Fodder. 

Moisture at 100° C. . . . 24.87 Potassium oxide .... 1.465 

Nitrogen 0.995 Sodium oxide 0.794 

Phosphoric acid 0.201 Ferric oxide 0.026 

Calcium oxide 0.310 Insoluble matter .... 1.318 

Magnesium oxide .... 0.093 

12. Corn-Kernel. New. 

Water 20.00 

Ash 1.25 

Albuminoids 8.06 

Fiber 1.54 

Nitrogen-free extract 65.38 

Fat. . 3.77 



100.00 

13. Pea-straw. 

Potash 4.73 

Lime 54.91 

Magnesia 6.88 

Oxide of iron 0.40 

Oxide of manganese 0.15 

Phosphoric acid 4.83 



Elements, Symbols and Analyses. 175 

Analyses, continued. 

Sulphuric acid 6.77 

Chlorine 0.09 

Alumina 1.21 

Silica 20.03 



100.00 

14. Peas. 

Potash 36.05 

Soda .7.42 

Lime 5.29 

Magnesia 18.46 

Oxide of iron 0.99 

Phosphoric acid 33.29 

Sulphuric acid 4.36 

Chloride of sodium 3.13 

Silica 0.51 



100.00 

15. Beet, Egyptian Turnip. 

Moisture at 100° C. . . . 85.800 Magnesium oxide . . . 0.035 

Nitrogen 0.177 Sodium oxide 0.061 

Phosphoric acid .... 0.070 Ferric oxide 0.002 

Potassium oxide .... 0.303 Insoluble matter .... 0.018 

Calcium oxide 0.049 

16. Carrots. 

Moisture at 100° C. . . . 90.02 Potassium oxide .... 0.54 

Ferric oxide 0.01 Sodium oxide 0.11 

Phosphoric acid 0.10 Nitrogen 0.14 

Magnesium oxide . . . . 0.02 Insoluble matter .... 0.01 

Calcium oxide 0.07 

17. Turnip, Buta-baga. 

Moisture at 100° C. . . .87.230 Magnesium oxide . . . 0.030 

Nitrogen 0.211 Sodium oxide 0.051 

Phosphoric acid .... 0.136 Ferric oxide 0.002 

Potassium oxide .... 0.546 Insoluble matter .... 0.001 

Calcium oxide 0.106 



176 



The Horticulturist" s Ride- Book. 



Analyses, continued. 

(c.) Analyses of Animal Excrements. 
18. Common Barn-yard Manure, Fresh. 



Water 




710.0 


Lime 


5.7 


Organic substance 




. 246.0 




1.4 


Ash 




. 44.1 


Phosphoric acid 


2.1 






4.5 


Sulphuric acid 


1.2 






5.2 


Silica and sand 


12.5 


Soda 




1.5 


Chlorine and fluorine . . 


1.5 


19. Common Barn-yard Manure, Moderately Rotted. 












7.0 


Organic substance 




. 192.0 


Magnesia 


1.8 


Ash 




5S.0 


Phosphoric acid 


2.6 






5.0 


Sulphuric acid 


1.0 






6.3 


Silica and sand 


16.8 


Soda 




. 1.9 


Chlorine and fluorine . . 


1.9 


20. Common Barn-yard Manure, Thoroughly Rotted. 








790.0 




8.8 


Organic substance 




. 145.0 


Magnesia 


1.8 


Ash 




65.0 


Phosphoric acid 


3.0 






. 5.8 


Sulphuric acid 


1 Q 






5.0 


Silica and sand 


17.0 


Soda 




1.3 


Chlorine and fluorine . . 


1.6 




21. 


Cattle- 


■Feces, Fresh. 




Water 




838.0 




3.4 


Organic substance 




. 145.0 


Magnesia 


1.3 


Ash 




17.3 


Phosphoric acid 


1.7 


Nitrogen 




2.9 


Sulphuric acid 


0.4 






1.0 


Silica and sand 


7.2 


Soda 




0.2 


Chlorine and fluorine . . 


0.2 




22. 


Cattle-Urine, Fresh. 










Lime 


0.1 


Organic substance 




. 35.0 


Magnesia 


0.4 


Ash 




. 27.4 


Sulphuric acid 


1.3 






. 5 8 


Silica and sand 


0.3 








Chlorine and fluorine . . 


3.8 


Soda 




6.4 







Elements, Symbols and Analyses. 177 



Analyses, continued. 

23. Horse-Feces, Fresh. 



Water 




757.0 




1.5 


Organic substance 




. 211.0 




1.2 


Ash 




31.6 


Phosphoric acid .... 


3.5 


Nitrogen 




4.4 




0.6 






3.5 


Silica and sand .... 


19.6 


Soda 




0.6 


Chlorine and fluorine . 


0.2 




24. 


Horse-Urine, Fresh. 




Wntpv 




901.0 




4 5 


{"^VCTI Tl 1 C CnllCt'lllPP 
KJ L cl 11 l\j SUUaLaULC 




. 71.0 




2 4 


Ash 




28.0 


Sulphuric acid .... 


n (\ 








Silica and sand .... 


. 0.8 








Chlorine and fluorine . 


. 1.5 






2.5 








25. 


Sheep-Feces, Fresh. 




Water 




. 655.0 


Lime 


4.6 


Organic substance 




. 314.0 


Masrnesia 


1.5 


Ash .* 




31.1 


Phosphoric acid .... 


3.1 


Nitrogen 




5.5 


Sulphuric acid .... 


1.4 


Potash 




. 1.5 


Silica and sand .... 


. 17.5 






1.0 


Chlorine and fluorine . 


. 0.3 




26. 


Sheep-Urine, Fresh. 




Water . 




, 872.0 




1.6 


Organic substance 




. 83.0 




3.4 








Phosphoric acid .... 


0.1 


Nitrosren 




19.5 


Sulphuric acid .... 


. 3.0 


Potash 




22.6 




0.1 


Soda 




5.4 


Chlorine and fluorine . 


. 5.5 




27. 


Swine- 


■Feces, Fresh. 




Water 




820.0 




0.9 


Organic substance 




. 150.0 


Magnesia 


. 1.0 


Ash 






Phosphoric acid .... 


4.1 


Nitrogen 




6.0 


Sulphuric acid .... 


0.4 


Potash 




2.6 


Silica and sand .... 


15.0 








Chlorine and fluorine . 


. 0.3 



178 The Horticulturist* s Rule- Book. 



Analyses, continued. 

28. Swine-Urine, Fresh. 



Water 


967.0 


Soda 


2.1 


Organic substance . . 


. 2S.0 


Magnesia 


0.8 


Ash 


15.0 




. 0.7 


Nitrogen 


4 3 


Sulphuric acid 


0.8 


Potash 


8.3 


Chlorine and fluorine . 


. 2.3 


29. 


Human 


Feces, Fresh. 




Water 


772.0 


Lime 


. 6.2 


Organic substance . . 


. 198.0 


Magnesia 


. 3.6 


Ash 


. 29.9 


Phosphoric acid .... 


. 10.9 


Nitrosren 


10.0 


Sulphuric acid .... 


. O.S 


Potash 


2.5 


Silica and sand .... 


1.9 


Soda 


. 1.6 


Chlorine and fluorine . 


. 0.4 


30. 


Human 


Urine, Fresh. 






963.0 


Lime 


0.2 


Organic substance .' . 


. 24.0 




0.2 


Ash 


. 13.5 


Phosphoric acid .... 


1.7 




. 6.0 


Sulphuric acid .... 


0.4 


Potash 


2.0 


Chlorine and fluorine . 


5.0 


Soda 


. 4.6 






31. 


Hen-Manure. Fresh. 




Water 


560.0 


Lime 


24.0 


Organic substance . . 


. 255.0 


Magnesia 


7.4 


Ash 


185.0 


Phosphoric acid .... 


15.4 


Nitrogen 


16.3 


Sulphuric acid .... 


. 4.5 


Potash 


S.5 


Silica and sand .... 


35.2 


Soda . 


1.0 






32. 


Goose-Manure. Fresh. 




Water 


771.0 




S.4 


Organic substance . . 


. 134.0 


Magnesia 


2.0 


Ash 


95 


Phosphoric acid .... 


5.4 


Nitrogen 


5.5 


Sulphuric acid .... 


1.4 








14.0 


Soda 


1.3 







Elements, Symbols a?id Analyses. 179 



Analyse! , continued. 



33. Duck-Manure, Fresh. 



Water 


566.0 




17.0 


Organic substance . . 


. 262.0 


Magnesia 


3.5 


Ash 


172.0 




14.0 




10.0 




, . 3.5 




6.2 


Silica and sand . . . 


28.0 


Soda 


0.5 






34. 


Dove-Manure, Fresh. 




Water 


519.0 




16.0 


Organic substance . . 


. 308.0 


Magnesia 


, . 5.0 


Ash 


173.0 


Phosphoric acid . . . 


. 17.8 


Nitrogen 


17.6 


Sulphuric acid . . . 


3.3 


Potash 


10.0 


Silica and sand . . . 


20.2 


Soda 


0.7 







(d.) Analyses of Various Materials which are used for 
Fertilizers. 

35. Peruvian Guano. 



Moisture at 100° C. . . .12.17 
Total phosphoric acid . . 18.45 
Soluble phosphoric acid . 1.54 
Reverted phosphoric acid 5.92 
Insoluble phosphoiic acid 10.99 
Potassium oxide .... 3.46 



Total nitrogen 5.13 

Actual ammonia . . . . 3.94 
Organic nitrogen .... 0.86 
Nitrogen as nitric acid . 0.33 
Insoluble matter .... 13.64 



36. Oak-Leaves. 



Moisture at 100° C. . . . 9.601 
Organic matter .... 83.360 
Mineral matter . . . . 6.840 

Ferric oxide 0.027 

Calcium oxide 0.548 

Magnesium oxide . . . 0.267 



Potassium oxide .... 0.549 

Phosphoric acid .... 0.058 

Nitrogen 0.930 

Soluble silica 0.018 

Insoluble silica ...... 4.333 



37. Sea- Weed. (Two samples.) 

1. 

Moisture at 100° C 12.05 

Nitrogen : . 1.66 

Phosphoric acid ... . r 0.44 



11. 

14.96 
1.28 
0.17 



180 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Analyses, continued. 

Potassium oxide 3.81 0,36 

Calcium oxide . * ■ 2. 73 3.86 

Magnesium oxide . . 1.48 1.30 

Sodium oxide 11.75 8.40 

Chlorine 6.40 5.28 

Insoluble matter 7.73 0.78 

38. Tobacco- Stems. 

Water 13.47 

Organic and volatile matters (containing nitrogen 1.93) . . 70.85 
Ash (containing phosphoric acid, .53) 15.68 



100.00 

39. Dissolved Bone-Black. 
This material is a superphosphate prepared by treating refuse 
bone-black from sugar-refineries with oi of vitriol, which ren- 
ders nearly all the phosphoric acid soluble in water. 

Soluble phosphoric acid 14.55 

Reverted phosphoric acid 2.39 

Insoluble phosphoric acid 0.20 

40. Bone-Black. 

Moisture at 100° C. . . . 5.04 Phosphoric acid 16.56 

Ash 67.43 Insoluble matter .... 0.37 

41. Bone Charcoal. 
Moisture at 100° C. . . .18.16 Reverted phosphoric acid 5. IS 

Ash .72.24 Insoluble phosphoric acid 20.02 

Total phosphoric acid . .25.58 Insoluble matter .... 0.69 
Soluble phosphoric acid . 0.38 

42. Ground Bones. (Two samples.) 

i. ii. 

Moisture at 100° C 3.97 12.43 

Ash 49.35 64.21 

Total phosphoric acid 19.49 25.67 

Reverted phosphoric acid 3.80 6.20 

Insoluble phosphoric acid 15.69 19.34 

Nitrogen 4.04 2.68 

Insoluble matter 0.78 0.42 



Elements, Symbols and Analyses, 181 

Analyses, continued. 

43. Dried Blood. 

Moisture 15.02 Nitrogen 8.24 

44. Dry Ground Fish. 

Moisture at 100° C 8.34 

Ash 37.76 

Total phosphoric acid 8.23 

Soluble phosphoric acid 0. 10 

Reverted phosphoric acid 3.81 

Insoluble phosphoric acid 4.32 

Nitrogen 6.81 

Insoluble matter 0.82 



45. Sulplmte of Ammonia. 

This article, now manufactured on a large scale as a by-prod- 
uct of gas-works, usually contains over 20 per cent, of nitrogen, 
the equivalent of from 94 to 97 per cent, of sulphate of ammonia. 
The rest is chiefly moisture. 

Nitrogen 20.02 Equivalent ammonia . .24.30 

46. Sulphate of Potash. (Two samples.) 

The double sulphate of potash and magnesia is usually 
" sulphate of potash. " 

i. 

Actual potash 27.76 

Equivalent sulphate of potash 51.3 

47. Sulphate of Magnesia. 

Moisture at 100° C. . . .29.01 Sulphuric acid . . . .30.35 
Magnesium oxide . . . .15.87 Insoluble matter .... 6.29 

48. Nitrate of Soda. 

Nitrate of soda is mined in Chile and purified there before ship- 
ment. It usually contains about 16 per cent, of nitrogen, equiv- 
alent to 97 per cent, of pure nitrate of soda. It contains besides, 
a little salt and some moisture. 

Moisture 35 Sulphate of soda .... 0.21 

■Salt (sodium chloride) . . .23 Pure nitrate of soda . . . 99.21 



sold as 



ii. 
51.28 
94.80 



1 82 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Analyses, continued. 

49. Muriate of Potash. (Two samples.) 

Commercial muriate of potash consists of about 80 per cent, of 
muriate of potash (potassium chloride; ; 15 per cent, or more of 
common salt (sodium chloride), and 4 per cent, or more of water. 



i. ii. 

Actual potash 50.0 52.82 

Equivalent muriate 79.2 83.70 

50. German Potash Salts — Average of 11 Analyses. 

Moisture at 100° C. . . .13.14 Magnesium oxide .... 9.25 

Potassium oxide . . . .21.63 Sulphuric acid 10.85 

Sodium oxide 13.76 Chlorine 35.63 

Calcium oxide 0.S5 Insoluble matter .... 2.08 

51. Kainit — Average of 3 Analyses. 

Moisture at 100° C. . . . 9.26 Magnesium oxide .... 8.97 

Potassium oxide . . . .14.04 Sulphuric acid 21.05 

Sodium oxide 21.38 Chlorine 32.38 

Calcium oxide 1.12 Insoluble matter . . . . 0.89 

52. Land-Plaster or Gypsum. 

Hydrated sulphate of lime .74.88 

Matters insoluble in acid 1.28 

Moisture 1.18 

Other matters chiefly carbonate of lime 22.66 

53. Ashes (Wood), Unleashed. 

Moisture at 100° C 15.72 

Calcium oxide . . . 28.61 

Magnesium oxide 3.00 

Ferric oxide 1.03 

Potassium oxide , . 8.72 

Phosphoric acid 0.32 

Insoluble matter, before calcination 18.49 

" after " 12.12 

54. Ashes (Wood), Leached. 

Moisture at 100° C. 13.72 

Calcium oxide 48.07 



Elements, Symbols and Analyses. 183 



Analyses, continued. 

Magnesium oxide 6.06 

Ferric oxide 0.6S 

Potassium oxide 1.92 

Phosphoric acid 1.T9 

Insoluble matter, before calcination 5.19 

" after 2.57 



55. Coal-Ashes, Bituminous. 



Water 5.0 

Organic substance . . . . 5.0 

Ash 95.0 

Potash 0.1 



Soda 0.1 

Magnesia 3.2 

Phosphoric acid 0.2 

Sulphuric acid 8.5 



56. Coal-Ashes, Anthracite. 



Water 5.0 

Organic substance .... 5.0 

Ash 90.0 

Potash 0.1 



Soda 0.1 

Magnesia 3.0 

Phosphoric acid . . . . 0,1 

Sulphuric acid 5.0 



57. Gas-Lime — Average of 4 Analyses. 

Moisture at 100° C. . . .22.28 Sulphuric acid* 20.73 

Calcium oxide 12.66 Insoluble matter .... 6.05 

Magnesium oxide .... S. 30 

* Sulphuric acid includes all forms of sulphur present. 



(e.) Trade Values for 1S91 of Fertilizing Ingredients in 
Raw Materials and Chemicals. Adopted by Experiment 



Stations of Mass., New Jersey. Penn. and Conn. 

Cts. 
per lb. 

Xitrogen in ammoniates 18)4 

" nitrates 14^ 

Organic nitrogen in dry and fine ground fish, meat and blood. 15J£ 
" " cotton-seed meal and castor-pomace . .15 

" " fine bone and tankage 15 

fine medium bone and tankage 12 

" medium bone and tankage 9% 

" coarser bone and tankage 7% 



hair, horn-shavings and coarse fish-scrap 7 



184 The Horticulturist" s Rule- Book. 



Analyses, continued. 

Phosphoric acid, soluble in water 8 

" u ammonium citrate 1% 

" " dry ground fish, fine bone and 

tankage 7 

" " fine-medium bone and tankage . 
" " medium bone and tankage . ., . 4% 
" " coarser bone and tankage ... 3 
Potash as high-grade sulphate and in forms free from mur- 
iate (or chlorides) h}4 

" muriate 4% 



— E. P. Roe. 



U A man might almost as well draw a check an a 
bank in which he has made no deposit, as to plant seed 
and fruit in poor graund." 



CHAPTER XXL 



Names, Histories and Statistics. 

i. Vegetables which have different Names in England and 
America. 

In America. In England. 

Artichoke (Heliantlms tuberosus) . . Jerusalem artichoke. 

Bean Kidney - bean, or French 

bean. 

Beet Beet-root. 

Lima bean Lima kidney-bean. 

Muskmelon Melon. 

Parsnip Parsnep, in many old books. 

Pepper Capsicum. 

Pumpkin Vegetable marrow. Gourd. 

Rutabaga Turnip-rooted cabbage, 

Swedish turnip. 

Salsify Salsafy. 

Squash Pumpkin. Gourd. 

11 Scallop Custard-marrow. 

11 Winter Crookneck Muskmelon, rarely. 

Swiss chard Leaf-beet. 

Turnip Turnep in many old books. 



(185) 



1 86 The Horticulturists Rule- Book. 



3. Names of Fruits and Vege 

English. French. German. 

Almond Amandier Mandel 

Apple Pommier . Apfel ... * 

Apricot Abricotier Aprikose 

Artichoke ..... Artichaut Artischoke 

Asparagus .... Asperge . . . Spargel 

Banana Ban ar^er ........ Pisang 



Bean, Broad. . . . Feve de Marais ... . . { Grosse Bohne and Gar- j 

^ ten Bohne > 

Bean, Kidney . . . Haricot Tiircksche Bohne 

Beet Betterave Rothe Rube 

Berberry Epine vinette ....... Berberitzenstrauch .... 

Blackcurrant. . , Cassis and Groseille noir . Schwartze Johannisbeere . 

Borecole Chou vert, or Non pomrae Griiner Kohl 

Broccoli Broccoli and Chaubrocolis . Italienischer Kohl 

Brussels Sprouts . Choude Bruxellesor a jets Sprossen Kohl 

Cabbage Chou pomme or Cabus . . Kopfkohl 

Cardoon Cardon Kardon 

Carrot Carotte Mohre or Gelbe Rube . . . 

Cauliflower .... Chou-fleur Blumen Kohl 

Celery Celeri Sellerie 

Cherry Cerisier ' Kirsche 

Chicory or Succory Chicoree Sauvage Gemeine Cichorie 

Cress, Garden . . Cresson Gemeine Garten Kresse . . 

" Water . . . Cresson de Fontaine . . . Briinnen Kresse 



Winter . . . Cresson de Terre Winter Kresse 



Cucumber .... Concombre Gurke 

Egg-plant Melongene, Aubergine . . Tollapfel and Eierpflanze 

Endive 1 Chicoree des Jardins, En- \ Endivie 

<■ dive J 

Fig Figuier Feige 

Filbert Noisette • . . Nussbaum 

Garlic Ail Knoblauch , 

Gooseberry .... Groseiller a. Maquereau . Stachelbeere 

Grape Vigne Traube and Weintrauben . 

Horse-radish . . . Cranson or le Grand Raifort Meerrettig 

Kohl-rabi or Tur- 



► Chou-rave . Kohl Rabi , 



nip- cabbage 

Leek Poireau f Gemeiner Lauch or Porro | 

<- Zwiebe ) 

Lemon Limonier Limonie ... 

Lettuce Laitue Gartensalat and Lattich . 

Melon, Musk . . . Melon Melone 



Names and Histories. 



i8 7 



tables in Various Languages. 

Dutch. Italian. Spanish. 

Amandelboom Mandorlo Almendro. 

Appelboom Melo or Porno ... Manzana. 

Abrikozenboom Albicocco Albaricoqre. 

Artisjok Caciofo Cinauco. 

Aspergie Asparago or Sparagio . . Esparrago. 

Bananenboom. 

Boon Fava Haba. 

Turksche Boon Faginolo Judias and Fasoles. 

Beetwortel or Karoot . . Barba bietola Betarraga. 

Barbarisse Berbero Berberis. 

Aalbessenboom Ribes nero Grosella negro. 

Grone Kool Cavolo aperto Col. 

Scotsche Kool Broccoli Broculi. 

Spruit Kool. 

Kool Cavolo Berza. 

Spaansche Artisjok . . . Cardon Cardo. 

Gerle Wort el .... . Carota Chirivia. 

Bloem Kool Cavoli fiori Berza florida. 

Selderij Appio Appio hortense. 

Keresenboom Ciriegia Cerezo. 

Suikerei Cicoria Achicoria. 

Tuinkers Cresciio Mastuerzo. 

Waterkers Crescione di Sorgenti . . Berro. 

Winterkers Erba di Santa Barbarea j Hierba de Santa Barb " 

<- bara. 

Komkommer Citriuolo Pepino or Cohombro. 

Dolappel Melanza Berengena. 

Andijvie Indivia ... Endivia. 

Vijgenboom Fico Higuera. 

Hazelnotenboom .... Avellano Avellano. 

Knoflook Aglio Ajo. 

Kruisbessenboom .... Uva-spina Uva-crespas. 

Druif Vigna Vina. 

Rammenas Ramolaccio Rabano picante. 



Look or Prei Porro Puerro. 

Limoenboom ...... jLimoen Liuion, 

Latouw Lattuga Lechuga. 

Meloen Mellone and Popone . . Melon. 



i88 



The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Names of Fruits and "Vegetables in 

English. French. German. 

Mint, common . . Menthe des jardins .... Munze . 

Mulberry Murier Maulbeere 

Mushroom .... Champignon comestible . Essbare Blatterschwamme 

Mustard Moutarde Senf . 

Nectarine .... P§che lisse Nectarpfirsch 

Olive . . Olivier Oelbaum and Olive .... 

Onion . Oignon Zwiebel 

Orange Oranger Pomeranze 

Orach Arroche Meldekraut 

Parsley Persil Petersilie 

Parsnip Panais Pastinake 

Pea Pois Erbse 

Peach Pecher Pfirsiche . . 

Pear Poirier Birne 

Pepper Piment Spanischer Pfeffer 

Pine-apple .... Ananas Ananas 

Plum ....... Prunier Pflaume 

Pomegranate . . . Grenadier Granatenbaum ....... 

Potato ....... Pomme de Terre Kartoffel 

Pumpkin or Gourd Courge Kiirbis 

Quince Coignassier . Quitte 

Radish Radis and Rave Rettig and Radies .... 

Rape Navette . Repskohl . 

Red Currant . . . Groseiller commun .... Gemeine Johannisbeere . . 

Rhubarb Rhubarbe Rhabarber 

Sage Sauge Salbey 

Salsify Salsifis Haferwurzel and Bocksbart 

Savoy j Chou de Milan or P omm * Iwirsing.orHerzkohl . . 

I fraise j 

Sea-kale Chou marin and Crambe . Meerkohl . . . 

Spinach Epinard Spinat 

Strawberry .... Fraisier Erdbeer 

Sweet Chestnut . . Chataignier and Marronier Castanien 

Thyme Thym Thimian 

Tomato Tomate Liebesapfel 

Turnip Navet Rube 

Walnut Noyer Wallnuss 

White Currant . . Groseiller commun .... Gemeine Johannisbeere . 
Watermelon . . . Melon d'Eau Wassermelone 



Names and Histories. 



Various Languages, continued. 

Dutch. - Italian. Spanish. 

Munt Erba Sta. Maria . . . . Menta. 

Moerbezieboom Moro Moral. 

Kampernoelio Pratajuolo bianco .... Seta. 

Mosterd Senapa Mostaza. 

Kale Perzik Brugnuolo Especie de Durazno. 

Olijfboom Ulivo Olivo. 

Uijen Cipolla Cebolla. 

Oranjeboom Arancio Naranja. 

Melde Atreplice Armuelle. 

Pieterselie Petroseline Perejil. 

Pinksternakel Pastinaca Chirivia and Pastinaca. 

Erwt Pisello Guisante. 

Perzikboom Persico Alberchigo 

Perenboom Pero Pera 

Spaansche Peper . . . Peberone Pimiento. 

Ananas Ananas Pina 

Pruinboom Prungo Ciruelo. 

Granaatboom Melagrano Granada. 

Aardappel \ Tartufi bianchi or Pomo \ Batatas Inglezas. 

» di Terra J 

Kauworde Zucca Calabaza. 

Kweeboom Cotogno Membrillo. 

Radijs Rafano Rabano. 

Rapskool Nape salvatico Naba silvestre. 

Aalbessenboom Ribes rosso Grosella. 

Rabarber Rabarbaro Ruibarbo. 

Salie Salvia Salvia. 

Boksbaard Sassifica Barba Cabruna. 

Savojie Kool Cappuccio Berza de Saboya. 

Zeekool Crarobe marina Col marina. 

Spinazie Spinace Espinaca. 

Aardbezienplant .... Piantadifragola Fresa. 

Kastanieboom Castagno Castano. 

GemeeneThyne . . . . Timo Tomillo. 

jAppeltjes der liefde I pomo d> Qro Tomate 

t and Tomaat . . . > 

Raap Navone Xabo. 

Walnotenboom Xoce Noguera. 

Aalbessenboom Ribes rosso Grosella. 

. . . , Sandia. 



igo The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



3. Derivation of the Names of Various Fruits and 
Vegetables. 

a. Fruits. 

Apple.— Anglo-Saxon, ceppel. 
Apricot. — Indirectly from Latin prcecox, early. 
Blackberry.— From the color of the fruit. 
Cherry. — Anglo-Saxon, cirse. 

Cranberry. — Crane-berry, from the slender pedicel of the Euro 
pean species. 

Currant. — Corruption of Corinth, Greece, whence came the 
" dried currants " (grapes) , which were once called Corinths. 

Gooseberry. — Gorse-berry, because the fruit is often rough like 
the gorse, an European plant. 

Grape.— French, grappe; allied to the word grapple. 

Lemon. — French, Union. 

Mulberry. — German, mulber, indirectly from Latin morus, a mul- 
berry tree. 
Nectarine. — Nectar-like. 
Orange. — Latin, aurum, gold. 

Peach.— Corruption of Persia, whence the fruit was early ob- 
tained. 

Pear. — Pirum, the Latin name. 

Plum. — Anglo-Saxon, pluma; indirectly from Latin prunum, a 
plum. 

Quince. — Corruption of Cydonia, the Lation name, from Cydon. 
Raspberry. — From rasp, referring to the character of the plant. 
Strawberry. — In early times the berries were strung on straws 
when sold. 

b. Vegetables. 

Artichoke.— Italian, articiocco; indirectly from the Arabic. 
Asparagus. — The Latin name. 
Bean. — The Anglo-Saxon name. 
Beet. — Latin, beta, the beet-plant. 

Cabbage. — French, cabus, from the Latin caput, a head. 
Carrot. — French, carotte, from Latin carota, the carrot. 
Brussels sprouts. — From Brussels, Belgium. 
Cauliflower. — Latin, caulis, stem, and flower. 
Celery. — Latin, selinon, parsley. 



Names, Histories and Statistics. 191 



Derivation of the Names of Fruits and Vegetables, continued. 

Chervil. — Anglo-Saxon, cerftlle. indirectly from a Greek combina- 
tion signifying " pleasant-leaf." 
Chives or Cives. — Latin, cepa, onion. 
Corn. — Anglo-Saxon, corn . 
Cress. — Old German, kresan, to creep. 
Cucumber. — Latin, cucumis. 

Egg-plant. — From the egg-shaped fruit of some varieties. 
Endive.— French, endive, indirectly from the Latin intubus. the 

endive or chicoiy. 
Garlic. — Anglo-Saxon, gar and leak, spear-leaf, referring to the 

shape and position of the leaves. 
Gumbo. — Portuguese, quingombo, from quillobo, an African name. 
Horse-radish.— Refers, evidently, to the strong and pungent 

character of the roots by reference to the strength of the 

horse. 

Kohlrabi. — Corruption of the Latin caulo-rapa. stem-turnip. 
Leek. — Auglo-Saxon. Icac or leak. 

Lettuce. — Latin, lactuca, the lettuce; from Zac, milk, referring to 

the milky juice of the plant. 
Melon. — Latin, mclo. a certain small melon. 

Mushroom. — French, mousscron, alluding to mousse, or moss, in 

which some mushrooms grow. 
Mustard. — French, mustarde, from Latin mustum. the must, with 

which mustard was mixed. 
Onion. — French, oignon; indirectly from Latin unus, one, unis, 

oneness, in allusion to a plant of which the oulb was formed 

of one piece. 

Parsley. — From a Greek combination meaning -'rock-parsley," 

a parsley-like plant. 
Parsnip. — Latin, pastinaca. 

Pea. — French, pais, evidently from Latin pisum. the pea. 
Pepper, Red. — Latin, piper, the true pepper or black pepper, with 

which the present plant is compared in pungency. 
Potato. — Spanish and Portuguese, batata, probably an aboriginal 

American name. First applied to the sweet-potato. 
Pumpkin. — French, pompion, from Latin pepo, a pumpkin-like 

fruit. 

Radish. — Latin, radix, root. 



192 The Horticulturist' s Ride- Book. 



Derivation of the Haines of Fruits and Vegetables, continued. 
Rhubarb. — French, rhubarbe; probably indirectly from Latin. 

barbaims, foreign. 
Sage.— Latin, salvus, saved, evidently in allusion to medicinal 

properties of the plant. 
Salsify. — French, salsifis. 

Spinach or Spinage.— Latin, spinacia, spinach, from spina, a 

thorn, in reference to the prickly character of the plant. 
Squash. — American Indian, asquash, a raw or green fruit. 
Tomato. — Tomate, of South American origin. 
Turnip.— Probably Welsh turn, round, and matp, turnip. 

4. Periods of Cultivation and Native Countries of Cultivated 

Plan-ts. 

(Adapted from researches of De Candolle, and Gray and Trumbull. ) 

Almond. Over 4,000 years ; Mediterranean basin, western tem- 
perate Asia. 

Apple. Over 4,000 years ; Europe, Anatolia, south of the Cau- 
casus. 

Apricot. Over 4.000 years ; China. 

Artichoke. Less than 2,000 years ; Europe, Africa, Canaries and 

Madeira. 

Asparagus, Over 2,000 years ; Europe, western temperate Asia. 
Banana. — Over 4,000 years ; southern Asia. 
Barley, Common. (?) ; western temperate Africa. 
Bean, Kidney. Over 4,000 years ; unknown wild. Probably N. 
America. 

Bean, Broad. Over 4,000 years ; south of the Caspian ( ?) . 
Buckwheat. Less than 2,000 years; Mandschuria, central 

Siberia. 

Buckwheat, Tartarian. Less than 2,000 years ; Tartary, Siberia 

to Dahuria. 
Cabbage. Over 4,000 years ; Europe. 

Carrot. Over 2.000 years ; Europe, western temperate Asia (?). 

Celery. Over 2,000 years ; Europe, Asia and Africa. 

Chestnut. (?) ; from Portugal to Caspian Sea, eastern Algeria. 

Chives. Less than 2,000 years ; temperate and northern Europe. 

Citron. Over 2,000 years ; India. 

Corn- salad. Less than 2.000 years; Sardinia, Sicily. 

Cotton, Herbaceous. Over 2,000 years ; India. 



Names , Histories and Statistics. 193 



Periods of Cultivation and Native Countries of Plants, continued. 

Cress. Ovor 2.000 years ; Persia (?). 
Cucumber. Over 4.000 years ; India. 

Currant, Black. Less than 2,000 years ; Europe, western Hima 
layas. 

Currant, Red. Less than 2,000 years; Europe to Himalayas. 
Date-palm. Over 4.000 years : western Asia and Africa. 
Egg-plant. Over 4.000 years ; India. 
Endive. Less than 2,000 years ; Mediterranean basin. 
Fig. Over 4,000 years ; south of Mediterranean basin. 
Garlic. Over 2,000 years ; desert of the Kirghis. 
Gooseberry. Less than 2,000 years ; temperate Europe, western 
Himalayas. 

Hop. Less than 2,000 years ; Europe, Asia, U. S. 

Horse-radish. Less than 2,000 years ; eastern temperate Europe. 

Jerusalem Artichoke. Probably ancient ; U. S. 

Leek. Over 2,000 years ; Mediterranean basin. 

Lettuce. Over 2,000 years ; Europe, Asia and Africa. 

Maize. Very ancient; New Granada (?) . 

Melon. Less than 2,000 years; India, Beluchistan, Guinea. 

Mushroom. Less than 2.000 years ; Northern hemisphere. 

Oats. Over 2,000 years : temperate Europe. 

Okra. Less than 2.000 years : tropical Africa. 

Onion. Over 4,000 years ; Persia, Afghanistan, Beluchistan, 

Palestine (?) . 
Onion, Welsh. Less than 2.000 years ; Siberia. 
Orach. Less than 2.000 years ; northern Europe and Siberia. 
Parsley. Less than 2,000 years ; Europe, Algeria and Lebanon. 
Parsnip. Less than 2,000 years ; central and southern Europe. 
Pea. Over 2,000 years ; Caucasus to Persia (?), India ( ?) . 
Peach. Over 4,000 years ; China. 
Pear. Over 4,000 years ; temperate Europe and Asia. 
Pepper. Over 500 years ; Brazil ( ?) . 
Pineapple. Over 500 years ; Mexico. Central America. 
Plum. Over 2,000 years ; Anatolia, north of Persia. 
Potato. O^er 500 years ; Chili, Peru. 

Pumpkin and Squash. Over 500 years ; temperate N. America. 
Quince. Over 4.000 years; north of Persia, south of the Cau- 
casus, Anatolia. 



194 7%<? Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Periods of Cultivation and Native Countries of Plants, continued. 
Radish. Over 2,000 years ; temperate Asia. 

Rampion. Less than 2,000 years ; temperate and southern 
Europe. 

Rape. Over 4,000 years ; Europe, western Siberia (?). 

Rice. Over 4,000 years ; India, southern China. 

Rye. Over 2,000 years; eastern temperate Europe(?), south. 

east of Europe, Algeria. 
Salsify. Less than 2,000 years ( ?) ; southeastern Europe. Algeria 
Sea-Kale. Less than 2,000 years ; western temperate Europe. 
Scorzonera. Less than 2,000 years ; southwestern Europe. 
Shaddock. Over 2,000 years ; Pacific Islands. 
Shallot. Less than 2,000 years ; unknown wild. 
Spinach. Less than 2,000 years ; Persia(?). 
Sorghum, Over 4,000 years ; tropical Africa ( ?). 
Strawberry, Chile. Less than 300 years ; Chile. 
Strawberry, Virginia. Less than 300 years; temperate N. 

America. 
Sunflower. Very ancient ; U. S. 
Sweet-Potato. Very ancient ; tropical America. 
Tomato. Over 500 years ; Peru. 

Turnip. Over 4,000 years ; Europe, western Siberia(?). 
Watermelon. Over 4,000 years ; tropical Africa. 
Wheat. Over 4,000 years ; region of the Euphrates. 

5. Statistics of the Vegetable Kingdom. 

There are 200 natural families or orders of flowering plants, 
about 7,600 genera, and about 100,000 species are known and de- 
scribed. The flowerless plants are much more numerous than 
the flowering plants, both in individuals and species. Ferns, 
mosses, mushrooms and many smaller or even miscroscopic fungi, 
lichens and sea-weeds are flowerless plants. 

The Ranunculacese or Crowfoot family includes over 1,200 
species of plants, inhabiting all parts of the world. The clematis, 
marsh-marigold or so-called cowslip, columbine, adonis, butter- 
cup, Christmas rose, love-in-a-mist, larkspur, aconite and peony 
are members of the Crowfoot family. The family comprises 30 
genera. 

There are about 100 species of clematis known. 



Statistics. 



195 



Statistics of the Vegetable Kingdom, c utinued. 

About 40 distinct species of delphinium or larkspur are de- 
scribed, few of which are cultivated, however. 

It is thought that there are about a half-dozen true species 
of peonies known, although many supposed species have been 
described. 

The Magnolia family comprises about 70 species of trees and 
shrubs. Of these, 14 are magnolias proper, of which 6 or 7 are 
native of Japan, China or the Himalaya region, and the remainder 
are North American. The tulip-tree, of which but a single spe- 
cies is known, belongs to this order. 

The Nyrnphaeaeeae or Water-lily family contains 8 genera and 
about 35 species, all aquatic. The largest genus is nyrnphaea — 
by some called castalia — comprising some 20 species. 

The Mustard family, Cruciferae, comprises probably about 
2,000 species, many of which are grown for food and ornament. 
The cabbage, cauliflower, turnip, kohlrabi, radish, horse-radish, 
sea-kale, cresses and mustards are the leading edible species, 
while the stocks, alyssum, wallflower, honesty or lunaria are 
among the ornamental species. There are over 175 genera in the 
order. 

The Violet family comprises about 250 species, generally dis- 
tributed over the world. Of these, about 200 are violets. The 
order includes 21 genera. Some of the species, outside of viola 
proper, are shrubs or small trees. 

The Caryophyllaceae or Pink family has about 1,000 species and 
35 genera. The ornamental genera are dianthus, including the 
pinks and carnation, saponaria, silene, lychnis and a few others 
of less importance. Dianthus. literally "Jove's flower," num- 
bers some 200 species. The corn-cockle and catchfiies belong to 
this family. 

The Mallow family. Malvaceae, has about 60 genera and 700 
species. The best-known genera are althaea, the hollyhock ; 
malva, the mallows; hibiscus; abutilon; and gossypium, the 
cotton. 

The Basswoods or Lindens are 8 in number, growing in north- 
ern temperate climates. Three are natives of North America. 
Tiliaceae, the Basswood family, comprises 40 genera and about 
330 species. 



196 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Statistics of the Vegetable Kingdom, continued. 

Some 50 species of maples are known, inhabiting Europe, 
Asia and America. Nine grow naturally in North America. The 
Sapindaceae, to which family the maple belongs, is largely trop- 
ical. It comprises over 70 genera, and 600 or 700 species. ^Escu- 
lus, the horse-chestnuts, belong here, and are about 14 in number. 

The Leguminosae or Pulse family is one of the most important 
orders of plants. It furnishes many foods, fine woods, dyes, 
medicines and ornamental plants. Many of the species are ex- 
tremely important in agriculture because of the great amount of 
nitrogen they contain. Peas, beans, clover, locusts, acacias, 
sensitive-plant, belong to this family. It comprises about 400 
genera and 6,500 species. 

The Rosaceae or Rose family may be called the fruit family of 
the north temperate zone. Apples, pears, quinces, June-berries, 
strawberries, blackberries, raspberries, peaches, plums, apri- 
cots, almonds, cherries, all belong here. Prunus, which includes 
the stone-fruits, has about 100 species in various parts of the 
world, and 25 are North American. Pyrus, including, apple, 
pear, quince and mountain-ash, has about 40 species, of which 9 
are in North America. Of roses, over 250 have been described, 
but late authorities consider that there are only about 30 good 
species. Of strawberries, there are 3 or 4 species, and of spiraea 
about 50. The whole family has about 1,000 species and 70 
genera. 

Vitis, the grape and its allies, has some 230 species. There 
are two or three other genera, and about a score of other species 
in the family, vitaceae or ampelideae, to which it belongs. 

The Cucurbitaceae iD eludes the squashes, pumpkins, cucum- 
bers, melons and gourds. The species are about 500 in number, 
and are mostly tropical or subtropical. Some 25 species are de- 
scribed as cucumis, to which the cucumber and muskmelon be- 
long, and 2 as citrullus or watermelon. The pumpkins and 
squashes belong to cucurbita, of which about 10 species are 
known, several of them perennials. The family comprises about 
70 genera. 

About 350 species of begonia are known. 

Of cacti, there are about 1,000 species and 13 genera, all but 
one species native of the New World. 



Statistics. 



197 



Statistics of the Vegetable Kingdom, continued. 

Umbellif erae, comprising over 150 genera and about 1,300 spe- 
cies, includes the parsnip, parsley, carrot, celery, caraway, anise, 
dill and others. In Africa some of the species attain to the size 
of trees. 

About one-ninth of all flowering plants are comprised in 
the Compositse or Sunflower family. It is by far the largest 
order, containing nearly 800 genera and about 10,000 species. 
Very few of the species furnish esculent parts ; the leading ones 
are lettuce, endive, chicory, artichoke, cardoon and salsify. But 
the family comprises great numbers of ornamental plants, of 
which the leading one at the present time is the chrysanthemum. 
A very few of the species become small shrubs. 

The Heath family, Ericaceae, includes the heaths, heather of 
Europe, wintergreen, whortleberries or huckleberries, cranber- 
ries, azaleas, rhododendrons and laurels. Certain white and 
flesh-colored parasitic plants also belong to it, as the Indian-pipe 
and the snow plant of the Rocky Mountains. About 80 genera 
and over 1,300 species are known. 

The Primulas belong to the Primulaceae or Primrose family, 
and they number some 80 or more species, many of which are 
cultivated. The genus primula is commonly divided by florists 
into auriculas, polyanthuses and primroses. One of the primu- 
las is the true -cowslip. Primulaceas has about 20 genera and 250 
species. 

Oleaceae, a family of 18 genera and nearly 300 species, includes 
the jasmine, forsythias, lilacs, ashes, privet and olive. 12 spe- 
cies of fraxinus or ash, are native to North America. There 
are about 120 species of jasminum or jasmine, 2 of forsythia, 6 
of syringa or lilac, over 30 of fraxinus, about 25 of ligustrum or 
privet, and 35 of olea, or olive. 

The Convolvulus or Morning-glory family, Convolvulaceae, has 
some 800 species, some of which are trees, and 32 genera. The 
dodders, peculiar parasitic plants, of which several are natives 
of the United States, belong here, as does also the sweet-potato. 

There are about 30 species of Phlox described, nearly all na- 
tives of North America. The common Phlox Drummondii is a 
native of Texas. 

Solanaceas is a large and important order, containing many 



198 The Horticulturist's Rule. Book. 



Statistics of the Vegetable Kingdom, continued, 
esculent plants and many poisons. Here belong the potato, to- 
mato, egg-plant, red pepper, and strawberry or husk-tomato; 
also tobacco, belladonna and nightshade. There are 66 genera 
and from 1,200 to 1.500 species. The genus solanum alone, to 
which the potato and egg-plant belong, contains from 700 to 900 
species. Lycopersicuni. the tomato genus, has less than a half 
dozen species. 

There are about 140 genera and 2,600 species in the Labiates 
or Mint family. The order comprises a few tree-like and a few 
climbing plants. The species are aromatic, and most of our 
cultivated sweet herbs, and all the mints, belong to the family. 
It comprises many ornamental species, among the most promi- 
nent being species of coleus. of which about 50 species are de- 
scribed. 

The Nettle family or Urticacese comprises many dissimilar 
plants. Here belong the nettles, mulberry, fig. bread-fruit, 
hackberry, osage-orange, elm. hemp, and hop. The family has 
in the neighborhood of 1.500 species, and the accepted genera are 
108. Five elms and 2 mulberries are native to North America, 
and 3 wild figs grow in southern Florida. 

Five genera and about 30 species belong to the Juglandaceas 
or Walnut family. All the hickories, 8 or 10, are natives of 
North America. There are 2 walnuts and 1 butternut in the 
United States. 

Cup ulif eras, the Oak family, numbers 400 species and 10 genera. 
It gives us the oaks, about 300 in the world and 44 in the United 
States; chestnuts, beeches, hazels and filberts, birches, alder, 
hornbeam, and ironwood. The United States has 2 chestnuts, 1 
beech, about 8 birches and 6 alders. 

The Pine or Spruce family is known as the Coniferae, or cone- 
bearing family. It includes plants of very dissimilar kinds. 
Most of the species have needle-like and evergreen leaves, but 
some are deciduous, and the gingko has broad and flat leaves. 
There are more than 30 genera and about 300 species in the fam- 
ily. Of pines there are about 70. and 35 of them are native to the 
United States. 

Orchidaceae, the Orchid family, includes some 5.000 singular 
herbs, distributed through 334 genera. Many of the species are 



Statistics. 



Statistics of the Vegetable Kingdom, continued. 

epiphytes, that is, growing above ground on other plants. The 
species are the most specialized, perhaps, of any order, and they 
are usually uncommon or rare. A number of showy species grow 
in the United States, the best-known of which are the lady-slip- 
pers. Our species usually inhabit bogs or deep woods. 

Over 2.000 species, in 1ST genera, comprise Liliaceae, or the 
Lily family. Some of the species are tree-like. Here belong 
the onion, asparagus, tulip, aloes, yuccas, hellebore, and many 
choice ornamental plants. Of lilies, there are about 45 species, 
tulips in the neighborhood of 50, and of hyacinths about 30. 

The Palm family. Paima?. includes 1.100 or more species and 
132 genera. Many species produce edible fruits, the best-known 
in our markets being the date and the cocoanut. 

The Gramineae or Grass family is the most important order of 
plants. Besides all the grasses, it furnishes all the cereal grains, 
including Indian corn and the sugar-cane. Genera about 300; 
species more than 3.000. 

There are about 71 genera of ferns or Filices. and in the neigh- 
borhood of 2,400 species. Some of the species attain to the size 
of small trees. 



CHAPTER XXII. 



Glossary. 

Acclimation. The spontaneous or natural process of becoming, 
or the state or condition of being, inured or habituated to 
a climate at first injurious. 

Acclimatization. The act of man in inuring or habituating to a 
climate at first injurious, or the state or condition of being 
thus inured or habituated by man. 

Adventive. Said of foreign plants which grow spontaneously, 
but which are not thoroughly established. 

Agriculture. The art and science of cultivating land and raising 
crops and stock. The term is often restricted to include only 
the cultivation of grains and forage-plants and the rearing of 
domestic animals, with the operations and studies incident 
thereto. 

Alburnum. Sap-wood. 

Ammonia. A pungent gas, composed of one atom of nitrogen to 
three of hydrogen. 

Annual {Adj.) Living for one year only. 

Arm. In grape-culture, a vine-branch more than a year old. 

Assimilation. In botany, the production of organic matter 
from inorganic matter. 

Bacterium (pi. bacteria). As popularly used, the term is applied 
to an extensive class of microscopic organisms, usually classed 
with plants. The term microbe is used in the same sense. 

Basin. In descriptions of apples and related fruits, the depres- 
sion at the apex of the fruit. The calyx sits in the basin. 



( 200 ) 



Glossary. 



20 1 



Berry. In botany, and properly, a separate fruit which is pulpy 
and juicy throughout, as the grape, currant, tomato. The word 
is commonly employed to denote any soft fruit or fruit-like part 
which is borne upon a woody or perennial plant. The raspberry 
and blackberry are collections of little fruits. 

Biennial (Adj.). Persisting two years. As a rule, biennial plants 
do not blossom until the second year. 

Bigeneric half-breed. The product of a cross between varieties of 
species belonging to different genera. 

Bigenric hybrid. A hybrid between species of different genera ; 
bigener. 

Blight. The dying without apparent cause of the tenderer parts 
of plants, especially of the leaves, flowers and young fruit; 
as pear-blight. 

Botany. The science of plants. 

Bottle-grafting. A modification of whip-grafting by which a 
heel of the scion is conducted into a bottle of water to supply 
temporary nourishment. 

Bottom neat. Heat applied underneath plants by artificial 
means. 

Bract. A much reduced leaf. Bracts are usually present about 
the inflorescence. 

Break. A radical departure from the type. Ordinarily used in 
the sense of sport, but in its larger meaning it refers to the per- 
manent appearence of apparently new or very pronounced 
characters in a species. 

Bud. A bud which is inserted in a plant with the intention that 
it shall grow. 

Budding. The operation and practice of inserting a bud in a 
plant with the intention that it shall grow. 

Bulb. A large, more or less permanent leaf-bud, usually occu- 
pying the base of the stem, and emitting roots from its lower 
portion. Bulbs are of two leading!' sorts ; scaly, when composed 
of narrow and mostly loose scales, as in the lily ; laminated or 
tunicated, when composed of more continuous and closer-fitting 
layers, as in the onion. 

Bulbel. A small bulb borne about a mother-bulb, as in some 
bulbous irises and some onions ; bulbule. 

Bulblet. A small bulb borne entirely above ground, as in the 
axils of leaves, in the inflorescence, etc. 

Bulbo-tuber. A corm. 



2Q2 The Horticulturist" s Rule- Book. 



Bulbule. A bulbel. 

Bush. A small woody plant having no central trunk or stem ; 
shrub. 

Bush-fruit. Small fruits, as the currant, gooseberry, raspberry, 
and the like. 

Callus. The new and protruding tissue which forms over a 

wound, as over the end of a cutting. 
Calyx. The outer envelope of the flower. The parts, when dis- 
tinct, are called sepals. In apples, pears, etc.. part of the 

calyx persists on top of the fruit. 
Cambium. The layer of new tissue which lies underneath the 

bark. It is usually thin and more or less mucilaginous in 

spring and early summer. 
Cane. A young growth of hard-wooded plants. Usually applied 

to ripened or hardened shoots a year or less old. 
Cantaloupe. A class of muskmelons characterized by firm and 

warty or scabby rinds. 
Capsule. A dry seed-vessel which splits open at maturity : pod. 
Carbon dioxide. A gas composed of one atom of carbon to two 

of oxygen. It is heavier than air. and is poisonous in large 

quantities ; carbonic acid gas. 
Carbonic acid. Carbon dioxide. 

Carpel. A simple pistil, or one of the divisions of a compoand 
pistil. 

Cavity. In descriptions of apples and similar fruits, the depres- 
sion about the stalk or stem. 
Chlorophyl. The green coloring-matter of plants. 
Cion. See Scion. 

Cleft-graft. A sort of grafting in which the scion is cut wedge- 
shaped at the lower extremity, and is then inserted in a cleft 
in the end of a trunk or branch which has been severed. 

Close fertilization. The action of pollen upon the pistil of the 
same flower; self-fertilization. 

Coldframe. A frame covered with glass, cloth or paper, with- 
out bottom heat, used for starting plants early in spring, for 
receiving plants transplanted from a hotbed or forcing-house, 
or for protecting plants during the winter. 

Conservatory. A glass house for preserving or growing tender 
plants. Popularly, the term is applied to houses in which 
plants are grown for display of flowers. 



Glossary. 



203 



Corolla. The inner envelope of the flower. The parts, when dis- 
tinct, are called petals. 

Corm. A solid bulb-like tuber, as in the gladiolus and crocus ; 
bulbo-tuber. 

Corymb. A flower-cluster which is flat or convex on top and in 
which the outer flower blooms first. 

Cotyledon. A small leaf borne in the seed ; seed-leaf. In many 
plants the cotyledons rise to the surface when the seed germi- 
nates, and increase in size. 

Cross. The offspring of any two flowers which have been cross- 
fertilized. 

Cross-breed. A cross between varieties of the same species; 
half-breed, mongrel, variety-hybrid. 

Cross- fertilization. The action of pollen upon the pistil of 
another flower of the same species. Cross-fertilization is com- 
monly used to denote the mere conveyance of pollen — pollin- 
ation — but better usage confines the term to the action of pollen 
upon the pistil. 

Cross-pollination. The conveyance of the pollen to the stigma of 

another flower. 
Crossing. The operation or practice of cross-pollination. 
Crown- grafting. Grafting at or near the surface of the ground. 
Cryptogam. One of the class of flowerless plants. These plants 

propagate by spores instead of seeds. Perns, fungi, mosses 

and sea-weeds are examples. 
Cutting. A portion of a plant which is inserted in soil or water 

with the intention that it shall grow ; slip. 
Cyme. A flower-cluster, flat or convex on top, and in which the 

central flowers open first. 
Deciduous. Said of plants whose leaves fall in autumn. 
Derivation hybrid. A hybrid between hybrids, or between a 

hybrid and one of its parents ; derivative hybrid ; secondary 

hybrid. 
Dibber. See dibble. 

Dibble. A pointed instrument used for making holes in the 
ground for the planting of seeds and roots ; dibber. 

Dioecious. Said of species in which the stamens and pistils are 
borne on different plants. 

Disbudding. The practice or operation of removing buds. 



204 The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Double-graft. A plant twice grafted for the purpose of over- 
coming the lack of affinity between stock and scion. 

Double -grafting. The practice and process of twice grafting or 
budding a plant so that the root, the stem or a part of it, and 
the top, shall each represent a different variety. It is used 
when a certain variety will not grow upon a given root, but 
which will grow on some variety that unites with that root ; 
double- working . 

Double-working. See Double-grafting. 

Drupe. A fleshy or soft fruit formed entirely from the ovary, 
and containing a hard pit ; stone-fruit. The peach and cherry 
are examples. 

Embryo. The rudimentary plant contained in the seed ; seed- 
germ. 

Entomology. The science of insects. 

Evergreen. Said of plants which hold their leaves during winter. 
Eye. A cutting composed of a single bud. 

Family. A group of genera and species, as Cruciferaz, mustard 
family; Gramince, grass family. In botany, order is the same. 

Fecundation. The action of the pollen upon the pistil ; fertiliza- 
tion; impregnation. 

Female. Used to designate flowers or plants which bear only 
styles. 

Fertilization. The action of the pollen upon the pistil ; fecunda- 
tion; impregnation. t 

Fertilizer. 1. Any substance which promotes plant-growth. 
2. Plant-food. 

Fertilizing. The act or process of applying fertilizers to" plants. 

The word fertilization should be restricted to designate the 

action of pollen. 
Flagging. Wilting of newly-set plants or herbaceous cuttings. 
Flat. A shallow box used by gardeners in which to sow seeds 

or handle plants. 
Floriculture. The cultivation of flowers. 
Florist. One who practices floriculture. 

Flower. An organ which contains a stamen or pistil or both. 
It is usually provided with some kind of an envelope, as calyx 
and corolla. 

Forcing-house. A structure in which plants are grown or forced 
out of their season. 



Glossary. 



205 



Frame. The structure forming the sides and ends of coldframes 
or hotbeds. A frame is usually understood to be the area cov- 
ered by a single sash, when areas are to be designated. 

Fruit. 1. Botanically, a ripened ovary containing the seeds. 
2. Popularly, any edible or ornamental organ or collection of 
organs which are closely associated in their origin with the 
flower. 

Fungicide. A substance employed to destroy fungi. 

Fungoid (adj.). Fungus-like in general appearance or character- 
istics. A fungoid disease is one which appears to be due to a 
fungus, but whose character is not understood. 

Fungous {adj.). Pertaining or due to a fungus or to fungi ; as, a 
fungous disease. 

Fungus (pL, fungi). A floweiiess plant, devoid of chlorophyl, 
drawing its nourishment from living plants or animals, or 
from decaying matter. 

Gardener. One who practices horticulture on a small or on an 
intensive scale. 

Gardening. The art and science of raising kitchen-garden vege- 
tables, fruits and ornamental plants ; horticulture. The term 
is commonly restricted, however, to the operations of growing 
kitchen-garden vegetables and flowers. 

Genus (pi., genera). A group or kind containing a greater or less 
number of closely related species ; as Rosa, the rose genus, 
Tilia, the linden genus. 

Germination. The act or process by which a seed or spore gives 
rise to a new and independent plant. 

Gourd. An ambiguous term, used in America to designate vari- 
ous small fruits of the pumpkin and squash genus which are 
grown for ornament and curiosity. In other countries the 
term is generic for most pumpkins and squashes. 

Graft. Scion, which see. 

Graftage. The process of grafting, or the condition or state of 
being grafted. 

Grafting. The operation of inserting a bud or scion upon a stock. 
It is commonly restricted to the operation of inserting scions of 
dormant wood, or to those operations in which wax or mastic 
is used to dress the wounds. 

Greenhouse. A glass house in which plants are grown. Origin- 
ally and properly, however, it was applied to houses in which 
plants were simply preserved green during the winter. 



2o6 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Ha-ha. A sunken fence. 

Half-Breed. A cross between varieties of the same species ; 
cross-breed, mongrel, variety-hybrid. 

Half-Hardy (adj.). A term applied to plants which need protec- 
tion during winter, but which can endure some frost. 

Half-hybrid. The product of a cross between a species and a 
variety of another species. 

Hand-box. A box of size sufficient to cover a hill of plants, pro- 
vided with a cover of glass, cloth or paper, used to force plants 
in the hill. 

Hardiness. Capability to endure a given climate. 

Hardy (adj. ) . Able to withstand a given climate. 

Heart-wood. The inner and colored wood of trees. The deeper 
color and greater hardness of heart-wood are due chiefly to the 
deposition of mineral matter in the cells. 

Herb. A plant possessing but a small amount of hard, woody 
fiber, the stem of which dies at the approach of winter. 

Herbarium. A collection of preserved plants. The plants are 
usually dried and glued on sheets of paper. 

Heeling-in. The process and operation of temporarily covering 
the roots of plants to preserve them until wanted for perma- 
nent planting. 

Horticulture. The art and science of raising fruits, kitchen-gar- 
den vegetables, flowers, and ornamental trees and shrubs. 

Horticulturist. One who practices horticulture. 

Hotbed. A frame covered with glass, cloth or paper, provided 
with bottom heat, and used for forcing plants. 

Hothouse. A glass house, artificially warmed, in which plants 
are grown. 

Hy'brid or hyb'rid. The offspring of plants of different species. 
Hy'bridism or hyb'ridism. The state, quality or condition of 

being a hybrid ; hybridity. 
Hy'bridist. One who practices hybridizing. 
Hy'bridity or hyb'ridity. Hybridism. 

Hybridization or hybridization. The state or condition of being 
hybridized ; or the process or act of hybridizing. 

Hybridization. The action of the pollen of one species upon the 
pistil of another species. 

Hybridizing or hyb'ridizing. The operation or practice of cross- 
ing species. 



Glossary. 



207 



Impregnation. The action of the pollen upon the pistil ; fertili- 
zation : fecundation. 

Inarching. The process of grafting contiguous plants or 
branches while the parts are both attached to their own roots. 
When the parts unite, one is severed from its own support. 

Individual fertilization. Fertilization between flowers upon the 
same plant. 

Inorganic. Pertaining to unorganized substances, as minerals. 

rocks, chemicals, etc. 
Insect. An articulate animal which in the mature state has 

three distinct divisions and six legs. 
Insecticide. A substance employed to destroy insects. 
Kitchen-garden. An area devoted to the cultivation of •• vege- 
tables," or annual plants which yield edible parts. 
Kitchen-garden vegetable. An edible portion of an annual plant. 

A loose term, commonly shortened to vegetable. 
Landscape-gardening. The art of embellishing grounds. It 

demands a high appreciation of natural scenery and an ability 

to represent it in grounds. 
Landscape-horticulture. The operations and manual appliances 

employed in embellishing grounds ; the industrial phase of 

landscape-gardening. 
Larva (pi., larvce). The worm-like stage of insects. A larva is 

commonly called a worm. 
Lawn. An area of greensward used for ornamental purposes. 
Layer. A shoot of a plant bent down and partly or wholly 

covered with earth with the intention that it shall take root, 

when it can be severed from and become independent of the 

parent plant. 

Layerage. The state or condition of being layered, or the opera- 
tion or practice of layering plants. 

Legume. A simple pod composed of two valves or parts, as pea 
and bean pods. 

Leguminous. Of or pertaining to legumes. Used to designate 

plants of the pea and bean family. 
Maiden (adj.). Applied to young plants which have not borne. 
Male. Used to designate flowers or plants which bear only 

stamens. 

Manure. 1. Any substance which promotes plant-growth. 2. 
Plant-food. 



2o8 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Microbe. A term applied to various microscopic organisms 
usually classed with plants, which play an important role in 
disease, chemical decomposition, and decay. 

Mildew. A powdery or mold-like growth attached lightly to the 
surface of the plant, particularly when it is white or nearly 
so, as gooseberry-mildew. 

Mongrel. A cross between varieties of the same species ; half- 
breed; cross-breed; variety-hybrid. 

Monoecious. Said of plants in which the stamens and pistils 
are borne in different flowers on the same plant. 

Mother-bulb. The large bulb about which bulbels are formed. 

Mycology. The science of fungi. 

Nursery. An establishment for the rearing of plants. In 
America the word is used in connection with woody plants 
only. 

Offscape. The landscape which lies adjacent to one's grounds. 
Olericulture. The cultivation of kitchen-garden vegetables ; 

vegetable-gardening . 
Open. An unplanted portion of grounds ; an open lawn or field. 
Order. Family, in botany. 

Organic. Pertaining to organized or living bodies or their 
remains. 

Ovule. A sexual body borne in the ovary, which, when mature, 

becomes the seed. 
Ovary. The lower extremity of the pistil, which, when mature, 

becomes the fruit. It contains the ovules. 
Panicle. An open and more or less compound flower-cluster. 
Papilionaceous. Butterfly-like ; said of flowers of the pea and 

bean family, from their fancied resemblance to butterflies. 
Parasite. A plant or animal which lives upon living plants or 

animals. 

Pedicel. The stalk of a particular flower in a cluster. A flower 

which is borne singly has a peduncle. 
Peduncle. A stalk of a flower which is borne singly, or of a 

cluster of flowers. 
Pepo. A berry-like fruit in which the rind is hardened, and 

which belongs to the gourd family, as the pumpkin, melon, 

cucumber, etc. 

Perfect. Said of flowers which bear both stamens and pistils. 



Glossary. 



209 



Perianth. The leaves of a flower. Usually applied to those flow, 
ers in which the calyx and corolla are nearly alike, as the lily. 

Perennial (adj.). Persisting from year to year. The term peren- 
nial is commonly understood to designate herbaceous plants 
which live for many years. 

Petal, or Pe'tai. One of the separate parts of the corolla ; an 
inner leaf of a flower. 

Petiole. The stem of a leaf. 

Phenogam. One of the class of flowering plants. These plants 

propagate by seed. 
Pip. A term applied to certain small seeds or seed-like fruits of 

berries and other fruits . 
Piping. A cutting. 

Pistil. That portion of the flower which receives the pollen and 
bears the seeds. It always has two parts, the stigma and the 
ovary, and these are usually connected by a style. It is the 
female organ of the plant. 

Pistillate. Bearing pistils alone ; female. 

Plantlet. The little plant just emerged from the seed. It 
becomes a plant when it is able to assimilate and lead an inde- 
pendent existence. 

Pod. A dry seed-vessel which splits open at maturity ; capsule. 

Pollen. A product of the anthers which is capable of fertilizing 
the stigma. It is usually granular and powdery. 

Pollination. The conveyance of pollen from the anther to the 
stigma. 

Polygamous. Said of plants or species which bear both perfect 

and imperfect flowers. 
Pome. A fleshy fruit with a papery core surrounded by a greatly 

thickened calyx, as the apple, quince, etc. 
Race. A fixed variety ; that is, a variety which reproduces itself 

more or less uniformly from seeds. 
Raceme. A more or less elongated and simple flower-cluste]; 

with one-flowered pedicels. 
Regermination. Second germination. Seeds which have been 

checked after germination has begun may resume the process 

under favorable conditions. 
Root. A part of the plant which bears neither leaves nor buds, 

and which absorbs nourishment for the plant, or serves as a 

support for it. It may be subterranean or aerial. 



2io The Horticulturist* s Ride- Book. 



Root-cap. The covering upon the end of a growing root. The 

elongation of the root takes place just behind the root-cap. 
Root-grafting, Grafting upon the root. 

Root-hair. A very delicate prolongation of a cell of a young root. 
Root-hairs are active agents in absorbing plant-food. 

Rot. The decay of the thicker part of plants, however brought 
about ; the amount of moisture present determining whether 
it shall be called wet or dry rot, as potato-rot. 

Runner. A procumbent or creeping herbaceous shoot which 
takes root at the joints. 

Rust. Any plant-disease in which the surface of the plant is 
apparently converted into a powder or scurf, particularly 
when of a ferruginous or blackish color, as wheat-rust. 

Saddle-graft. A sort of grafting in which the scion is split be- 
low and inserted over the end of the stock, which is cut 
wedge-shape. 

Salad. A dish of uncooked herbs, or chopped meat combined 
with uncooked herbs. 

Sap. A term designating loosely the liquid contents of plants. 

Saprophyte. A plant which lives upon dead or decaying matter, 
as a mushroom or toadstool. 

Scion, or Cion. A portion of a plant which is mechanically in- 
serted upon the same or another plant with the intention that 
it shall grow; a graft. As commonly used, a scion, in distinc- 
tion from a bud, bears two or more buds. - 

Secondary hybrid. A hybrid between hybrids, or between a hybrid 
and one of its parents ; derivative hybrid ; derivation-hybrid. 

Se'pal. or Sep'al. One of the separate parts of the calyx: an 
outer leaf of a flower. 

Shoot. A soft and gTOwing branch. 

Shrub. A small and bushy woody plant, with no central stem or 
trunk : a bush. 

Side-graft. A sort of grafting in which the scion is inserted in 

a slit or oblique cleft in the side of the stock. 
Slip. A cutting. 

Small-fruit. Low and bush-like fruit-plants, and the fruits they 

produce, as the currant, gooseberry, blackberry, strawberry, 
and the like. 

Splice-graft. A sort of grafting in which both the scion and 
stock are cut off obliquely and the cut surfaces applied to each 
other, the two scions being held secure by bands of string. 



Glossary. 



211 



Seed. The sexual reproductive organ of flowering plants ; a 
ripened ovule. Its essential part is the embryo, or rudimentary 
plantlet. 

Seedage. The process of propagation by seeds, or the state or 
condition of being propagated by seeds. 

Seed-germ. The rudimentary plant contained in the seed ; em- 
bryo. 

Seedling. A plant growing directly from the seed, without the 

intervention of grafts or cuttings. 
Self-fertilization. The action of pollen upon a pistil of the same 

flower; close-fertilization. 
Self-pollination. The transfer of pollen to a pistil of the same 

flower. 

Spore. The reproductive body of a flowerless plant, answering 
to the seed of a flowering plant. It contains no embryo. 

Spur. A very short and small branch bearing leaves or floweis. 

Stalk. In descriptions of apples and similar fruits, the stem or 
pedicel. 

Stamen. That portion of the flower which bears the pollen. It 
consists of the anther and filament. It is the male organ of 
the plant. 

Staminate. Bearing stamens alone ; male. 

Stem. That portion of the plant which bears leaves or buds, or 

both. It may be aerial or subterranean. 
Stigma. The upper extremity of the pistil upon which the pollen 

is received. It is usually more or less pappilose and glutinous. 
Stipule. A more or less leaf-like and usually small appendage at 

the base of a petiole. Stipules are borne in pairs, but they are 

not always present. 
Stock. 1. The parentage of a particular strain or variety. 2. A 

plant or part of a plant upon which a bud or graft is set. 
Stolon. A decumbent shoot which roots at or near the tip, as the 

shoots of black raspberries. 
Stove. A very warm glass house, used for growing tropical 

plants. 

Strain. A subvariety, or individuals of a variety, which has 
been improved and bred under known conditions. 

Stub. A portion of a trunk or branch which has been recently 
grafted. Usually applied to top-grafting. 

Style. The more or less slender portion of the pistil connecting 
the stigma and ovary. 



212 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Tongue-graft. Whip-graft. 

Top-grafting, Grafting upon the top of a plant. 

Tree. A woody plant attaining the height of a man or more, and 

having a definite central stem or trunk. 

Truss, Loosely applied to clusters of flowers or fruits. 

Tuber. A prominently thickened root or stem, usually subter- 
ranean. 

Umbel. A flower-cluster which is flat or flattish on top. and whose 

pedicels start from a common point, or nearly so. 
Variety-hybrid. A cross between varieties of the same species ; 

half-breed ; cross-breed : mongrel. 
Vegetable. 1. A plant. 2. In horticulture, an edible portion of 

an annual plant : kitchen-garden vegetable. In the latter sense 

a loose term. 

Vegetable-gardening. The cultivation of kitchen-garden vege- 
tables : olericulture. 

Vegetation. 1. Vegetable or plant-life. 2. The process or act of 
vegetating or growing. 

Veneer-graft. A sort of grafting in which the scion is applied 
to the side of the stock, only the bark being removed between 
them. 

Viticulture. Grape-culture. 

Weed. A plant which grows where it is not wanted and which 
becomes troublesome. 

Whip-graft, A species of grafting in which the scion is secured 
to the stock by means of a tongue which is inserted in a cleft 
in the stock : tongue-graft. 

Wilding. A wild or uncultivated plant. Commonly used to des- 
ignate the wild individuals of a cultivated species. 

Wind-shake. An injury to the trunk of a tree, consisting of the 
more or less complete separation of the concentric annual lay- 
ers or of the separation of the bark from the wood. The in- 
jury is commonly ascribed to the wind, but it is oftener due to 
the frost and other causes. 

Winter-killing. The process or act by which a plant is killed by 
the climate of winter. 

Worm. A term properly applied to a large class of legless artic. 
ulated animals, of which the angleworm, or earthworm, and 
trichina, are examples. The term is commonly, but improperly, 
applied to the larvae of insects. 



INDEX. 



Page. 

Acanthacara similis 34 

Acrocystis batatas 58 

Actinomena rosa 56 

yEgeria exitiosa 32 

^geria polistiformis 2S 

^Egeriapyri 33 

^geria tipuliformis 24 

Agrotis 25 

Alcoholic Waxes 68 

American Florists, Rules of . . 142 
Ammoniaeal carbonate of copper 40 

Ammoniated copper sulphate . 40 

Analyses 167, 184 

Anarsia lineatella 38 

Angleworm 18 

Animal Excrements, Analyses 

of 176 

Anisopteryx vernata 19 

Anthomyia brassicae 22 

Anthomyia ceparum 30 

Anthomyia raphani 35 

Anthonomus musculus 38 

Anthonomus suturalis ...... 24 

Anthonomus quadrigibbus ... 18 

Anthracnose 46 

Ants 29 

Aphis 32 

Aphis Forbesii 38 

Aphis persicae-niger 32 

Aphides 18 

Aphodius granarius 23 

Apple 18 

Apple-Bucculatrix 18 

Apple-Curculio 18 

Apples, To Find Bushels of . . 139 

(2 



Page. 

Apple Flea-Beetle 18 

Apple- Maggot ......... 18 

Apple-Pomace, Analysis of . . . 174 

Apples, Weights of 137 

Apricot 21 

Arsenic 7 

Arsenite Soda for weeds .... 66 

Artipus Floridanus 31 

Asafcetida for rabbits 63 

Ascomyces deformans 52 

Ash of Fruits, for Fertilizing . . 171 

Ashes, Analyses of 182 

Ashes, Coal, Analyses of ... . 183 
Ashes, Wood, Analyses of . . . 182 

Asparagus 21 

Asparagus-Beetle 21 

Aster 21 

Aster- Worm ......... 21 

Audoynaud process 42 

Bait 9 

Bag-Worm . 21 

Balm of Gilead 46 

Bandage, Waxed 69 

Bark-Lice 18 

Bark r Louse, Apple 19 

Basket-Worm 21 

Bean 21 

Bean-Bug 21 

Bean Weevil 21 

Bear, Time required to .... 97 

Beet, Analysis of 175 

Beet Rust 46 

Beeswax Waxes 68 

Bembecia marginata 35 

Bisulphide carbon and kerosene 9 



13) 



The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Page. 



Bitter- Rot 45 

Blackberry' 22 

Black- Rot 49 

Black-Shank 58 

Black-Spot 56 

Bladders 55 

Blepharida rhois 38 

Blight 45 

Blight, Lima Bean 46 

Blight-powder 41 

Blister-Beetle 22 

Blood for rabbits 62 

Blue vitriol or copperas .... 9 

Boiler Cement 71 

Boilers to prevent Sediment . . 137 
Bone Charcoal, Analysis of . . 1S0 
Bone-Black, Dissolved, Analysis 

of 180 

Books, Ola, dates on 140 

Bordeaux mixture 41 

Branches, Analysis of ... . 170 

Bruchus obsoletus 21 

Bruchus pisi 31 

Bucculatrix pomifoliella .... iS 

Budding, Ways of 102 

Bud-Moth 19 

Buhach 13 

Cabbage 22 

Cabbage-Butterfly 22 

Cabbage-Worm 22 

Cabbage, Preserving of . . . 109 

Cseoma luminatum 56 

Camphor for rats and mice . . 62 

Cane-Borer 35 

Canker-Worm 19 

Carbolic acid 41 

Carbolic acid for weeds .... 66 
Carbolic acid and soap mixture 9 
Carbolic acid and water .... 9 

Carbolized plaster 10 

Carbon, bisulphide of 9 

Carbonate baryta for rats and 

mice 61 

Carnation, Rust of 47 



Page 

Carpocapsa pomonella ..... 19 

Carrot 23 

Carrots, Analyses of 175 

Cattle, Feces, Analysis of . . .176 
Cattle, Urine, Analysis of . . . 176 

Cauliflower 23 

Celery 23 

Celery Leaf-Blight 47 

Celsius, thermometer 131 

Cements and Mortars . . . . 71. 73 
Centigrade, thermometer . . . 131 

Ceratocystis fimbriata 58 

Cercospora Apii 47 

Cercospora rosaecola . . ... 56 

Cherry 23 

Cherry, Brown- Rot 47 

Chloride of iron 41 

Chrysanthemum 23 

Chrysanthemum Leaf-Miner . . 23 
Chrysobothris femorata .... 20 

Cladosporium 52 

Cladosporium fulvum .... 59 
Clisiocampa Americana .... 20 
Clisiocampa sylvatica ..... 20 
Cloth, for hotbed sash . . .138,70 

Cloth, Paints for 76 

Cloth, Waxed 70 

Club-Foot 46 

Club-Root 46 

Coal-tar 70 

Coal-tar Coating for weeds . . 66 

Coal-tar fumes 9 

Coccotorus scutellaris 34 

Codlin-Moth 19 

Colletrotrichum Spinaceae ... 57 
Colorado Potato-Beetle .... 35 
Combinations arsenites and 

fungicides 8 

Concrete 73, 74 

Conotrachelus nenuphar .... 34 

Copperas 9 

Copper Cement 72 

Copper mixture of Gironde . . 41 
Corn 23 



Index. 



215 



Page. 



Corn-Fodder, Analysis of . . .174 
Corn-Kernel, Analysis of . . 174 

Cornstalk-Borer 23 

Corn, Rot 47 

Cottonwood Leaf-Beetle .... 34 
Countries, of Cultivated 

Plants 192, 193 

Co vent Garden Measures . 121, 122 
Cow-manure for rabbits .... 63 
Cow-manure for potting-soil . . 139 

Cracking of fruits 53 

Cranberry- 23 

Cranberry-Aphis 23 

Cranberry-vine, Analysis of . . 174 
Cranberry, Gall-Fungus . . . 4S 

Cranberry Saw-Fly 24 

Cranberry-Worm 23 

Craponius inaequalis 27 

Crioceris asparagi 21 

Crystallized Fruit 108 

Cucumber, Insects of . . . . 24 

Cucumber-Mildew 4S 

Cucumber-Worm 24 

Cultivation, Periods of . . . . . 192 

Currant Borer 24 

Currant and Gooseberry Saw- 

Fly 4 

Currant Measuring-Worm ... 25 

Currant Rust 4S 

Currant-Worm 24 

Cupric steatite 43 

Curculio 34 

Cut-Worm 25 

Cut- Worm, Climbing 25 

Cystopus Ipomcea-panduranse . 59 

Dactylopus adonidum 30 

Dahlia 26 

Dakruma convolutella 27 

Dalmation insect-powder ... 13 

Damping-ofT 48 

Darapsa myron . . . . 28 
Dates, for Sowing and Setting 87,89 
Dates of Fruits and Nuts . . . 134 
David's powder 42 



Page. 



Depressaria heracliana 31 

Derivation, of Names 190 

Destroying affected parts . . 42 

Deutzia 26 

Diabrotica 12-punctata ..... 24 

Diabrotica vittata 24 

Diplosis pyrivora 33 

Doryphora decemlineata ... 35 

Downy Mildew 50 

Dove-Manure 179 

Dried Blood, Analysis of. . . . 1S1 
Dry Ground Fish, Analysis of . 1S1 
Dry Matter, Composition of . . 170 

Dry- Rot 58 

Dung, Cow, for potting-soil . . 139 

Duck-Manure 179 

Earthenware Cement 72 

Earthworm iS 

Eau celeste . 42 

Eau Grison 42 

Edioptis nitidalis 24 

Egg-Plant 26 

Elaphidion parallelum 21 

Elaphidion villosum 21 

Elements, Symbols of 167 

Elm 26 

Elm Flea-Beetle 26 

Emphytus maculatus . .... 38 

Empoa albopicta 25 

Endive 26 

Entomosporium maculatum . . 53 
Entomosporium maculatum var. 

Cydoniae 56 

Entyloma Ellisii 57 

Erythroneura vitis 2S 

Esteve process 43 

Eudemis botrana 27 

Eudioptis hyalinata 30 

Eufitchia . . . . • 25 

Exoascus derformans 52 

Fahrenheit, thermometer . . . 131 

Fall Web- Worm 19 

Fertilizers, Analysis of ... . 179 
Fertilizers, Value of, 1891 . . .183 



2l6 



The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Page. 



Fidia viticida 27 

-Figures and Statistics . . .139,140 

Fire-Worm 23 

Fireproof or Stone Cement . . 72 

Flat-Headed Borer 20 

Flea- Beetle 26 

Flower-Pots, to keep clean ... 137 

Plower-Pots, Standard 113 

Flowers, National and Party . . 133 
Flowers, Preserving and Print- 
ing 159/164 

Four-Striped Plant- Bug .... 25 

Formica 29 

Frenching 52 

French Waxes 69 

Fruits, Analyses of 16S 

Fruit and Branches, Analyses of 171 
Fruits and Nuts, Dates of . . . 134 
Fruits, in Various Languages . 

Fruits, how Multiplied 102 

Fruit Plants, Analyses of . . . .168 

Fire-Proof Paint 75 

Fruits, Sub-Tropical, Analyses 

of 169 

Fruit- Worm 38 

Fusicladium dentriticum ... 46 
Fusicladium pyrinum ..... 53 
Galleruca xantho-melcena ... 26 
Garden Borders, Concrete for . 73 
Garden Seeds, Longevity of . . 83 
Garden Seeds, Time required to 

germinate 86 

Garden Seeds, Weight and 

Size . . . 79 

Garden Vegetables, Naming of . 142 

Gas-Lime, Analysis of 183 

Goose-Manure 178 

German Potash Salts, Analysis 

of 182 

Gipsy-Moth 26 

Girdling by mice 61 

Glaeosporium fructigenum ... 51 
Glaeosporium Lindemuthianum 46 
Glaeosporium necator 56 



Page. 

Glaeosporium nervisequum ... 54 

Glass bottles, Cutting 137 

Glass, Cement for ........ 72 

Glass for Commercial Purposes . 132 

Glass, Reflection from 132 

Glossary ... 200 

Glues 76, 77 

Glue and arsenites wash .... 10 

Gooseberry 27 

Gooseberry Fruit-W T orm .... 27 

Gooseberry-Mildew 48 

Grafting, Ways of 101 

Grain-Aphodius 23 

Grape 27 

Grape, Anthracnose 49 

Grape- Berry Worm 27 

Grape-Curculio 27 

Grapes, Keeping 106 

Grape Seed-Worm 27 

Grape-Slug 27 

Grape-vine Fidia 27 

Grape-vine Flea-Beetle .... 27 

Grape-vine Root-Borer 28 

Grape-vine Sphinx 28 

Graptodera chalybea 27 

Graptodera foliacea 18 

Grasshoppers 29 

Greenhouse-Roofs, Paint for . . 75 

Green-Fly 29 

Green Leaf- Hopper 25 

Green Lettuce- Worm 29 

Grison liquid 42 

Ground Bones, Analysis of . . 180 
Ground-squirrel, remedies ... 63 

Gryllotolpa borealis 35 

Gum, Flower 77 

Gypsum, Analysis of 182 

Haltica striolata 26 

Harlequin Cabbage-Bug .... 22 

Hay, Tons in a Mow 139 

Hay, Tons in a Stack 139 

Heliothis armigera 38 

Hellebore, White 17 

Helotropha atra 23 



Index. 



217 



Page. 



Hen-Manure . . . 178 

Herbarium, To make 158 

Heterodera radicicola 36 

Hilgar's Wash 43 

Hollyhock 29 

Hollyhock Rust 51 

Horse-Feces 177 

Horse-Urine 177 

Hoskin's Wax 70 

Hot water 10 

Human Feces .178 

Human Urine 178 

Hyphantria textor 19 

Insects, Collecting and Preserv- 
ing 165, 166 

Iron cement 71 

Isosoma vitis 27 

Jumping Sumac-Beetle 38 

Kainit, Analyses of 182 

Katydid 32 

• Keeping Apples 104 

Keeping Figs . 105 

Keeping Fruits and Vegetables 104 

Keeping Gooseberries 105 

Keeping Grapes for Market . . 106 

Keeping Pears 104 

Kerosene 10 

Kerosene and condensed milk 

emulsion 10 

Kerosene and milk emulsion . . 10 
Kerosene and water emulsion . 11 

Kerosene emulsion 10 

Kitchen-Garden, Seeds for ... 86 
Labels and Specimens, Gum for 77 

Labels, Ink for 137 

Labels, To preserve 138 

Lachnosterna fusca 30 

Laestadia Bidwelli 49 

Land-Plaster, Analysis of . . . 182 

Lawns 29 

Leaf- Blight 58 

Leaf-Curl 52 

Leaf-Crumpler 29 

Leaf-Brownness 56 



Page. 



Leaf- Hopper 28 

Leaf-Mold 59 

Leaf-Notcher 31 

Leaf-Rust 55 

Leaf-Scorching < . 54 

Leaf-Spot 56 

Legal Sizes 116 

Legal Weights 116 

Lettuce 29 

Lettuce-Mildew 51 

Lime Spray 11 

Lime, sulphur for weeds .... 66 

Lina scripta 34 

Liver of sulphur 43 

Lixus concavus 36 

London purple 8 

London purple lye and sulphur 

wash 11 

Longevity of fruit-trees .... 98 
Loudon's Rules of Horticulture 141 

Louse 23 

Lye and whale-oil soap wash . . 11 

Lytta 22 

Macrodactylus subspinosus . . 37 
Macrosila quinquemaculata . . 38 

Macrosporium tomato 59 

Maggot 35 

Mail Matter, Rates of . . 150, 152 

Manure, Analyses of 176 

Maple Leaf-Spot 51 

Margarodes quadristigmalis . . 35 
Maturity, Time required for . . 97 

May-Bug 30 

May-Beetle 30 

Mealy Bug 30 

Measures 113, 128 

Measures, Value of .... 139 

Melampsora populina 55 

Melon 30 

Melon- Worm . , 30 

Metals, To keep from rusting . 76 
Metric Measure . .... .127,128 

Mice girdling trees 61 

Mice, Injuries by 62 



218 The Horticulturist's Rule- Book. 



Page. 



Microcentrum retinervis .... 30 
Micrococcus amylovorus ... 53 

Midge 33 

Mite 31 

Mole-Cricket 35 

Monilia fructigena 47 

Monilochaetes infuscans .... 58 

Mortar 73 

Morthiera Mespili 53 

Moss on Lawns 67 

Moss on Trees 67 

Moss on Walks 67 

Mushroom 30 

Mushroom-Fly 30 

Muriate of Potash, Analysis of . 182 

Mytilaspis pomorum 19 

Myxus persicae 32 

Names of Fruits, Derivation . . 190 
Names of Vegetables, Deriva- 
tion 190, 191 

Nematus ventricosus 24 

Nitrate of Soda, Analysis of . . 181 
Nomenclature, Rules of ... . 141 
Oak-Leaves, Analysis of ... . 179 

Oberea bimaculata 35 

Ocneria dispar 26 

GEcanthus niveus 36 

Oidium erysiphoides 59 

Oidium erysiphoides var. Cur- 

curbitarum 48 

Oil and alkali wash 12 

Old Books, Dates of 140 

Oil Vitriol for weeds 66 

Oncideres cingulatus 34 

Onion 30 

Onions, Preserving no 

Onion-Rust 51 

Orange 30 

Orange-Leaf Scab 52 

Orange-keeping 56 

Orange- Rust 56 

Orgya leucostigma 21 

Orthotylus delicatus 29 

Oscinis 23 



Page. 

Paints 73, 76 

Paper, for hotbed sash 138 

Paper, Paints for 76 

Paper, Waterproof 138 

Papilio Asterias ........ 31 

Paraffine oil 12 

Paris green 7 

Parsley- Worm 31 

Parsnip Web- Worm 31 

Paste, French, for rats and mice 62 

Pea-Bug 31 

Pea- Weevil 31 

Pea-Straw, Analysis of 174 

Peach, Analyses of 170 

Peach, Curl 52 

Persian insect-powder 13 

Peach-Louse 32 

Peach-Tree Borer 32 

Peach-Twig Moth 32 

Pear-Blight 53 

Pear-Leaf Blister 33 

Pear-Tree Borer 33 

Pear Twig-Beetle . 20 

Peas, Analysis of 175 

Perfumery, To make 164 

Peronospora effusa ....... 57 

Peronospora gangliformis ... 51 
Peronospora Schleideniana . . 51 

Peronospora Violse 60 

Peronospora viticola 50 

Persimmon 34 

Peruvian guano 179 

Phenic acid 41 

Phoma batatse 58 

Phoma uvicola 49 

Phopobota vacciniana 23 

Phoxopteris comptana 37 

Phragmidium mucronatum . . 57 

Phycis indigenella 29 

Phyllosticta acericola . . . . 51 

Phyllosticta bataticola 58 

Phyllosticta Chenopodii .... 57 

Phyllotreta vittata 26 

Phylloxera vastatrix 28 



Index. 



219 



Page. 

Phytophthora infestans • ... 55 

Phytophthora Phaseoli 46 

Phytoptus pyri 33 

Pickle-Worm 24 

Pieris rapse 22 

Pineapple 34 

Pipes, Water held by 129 

Pitch Waxes 69 

Pits and Frames, Paints for . . 76 

Plane-Tree 54 

Plant-Lice ... 18 

Planting Fruits, Distance ... 90 
Planting Vegetables, Distance . 91 

Plants, Collecting 158, 159 

Plants, Preserving . . . . 158, 159 
Plants, Preserving and Print- 
ing . . 59, 164 

Plants to Set an Acre . . . . 92, 96 
Plasmidiophora brassicae . . 46 

Plaster and kerosene 12 

Plowrightia morbosa ... .54 

Plum 34 

Plum-Curculio 32 

Plum-Gouger 34 

Plum-Knot 54 

Plum Leaf-Rust 54 

Plum Pockets 55 

Plum-Wart 54 

Plusia brassicae 29 

Pod -Rust 46 

Podeschard's powder 42 

Podospaera oxycanthae .... 45 

Pcecil ocapsus lineatus 25 

Poison, California rabbit .... 63 

Polyporus versicolor 53 

Poplar, Disease of 55 

Postage, Foreign 152 

Potash 12 

Potassium sulphate 43 

Potatoes, to find bushels in bin 139 

Potato-Rot 55 

Powdery Mildew 50 

Precipitated carbonate of Cop- 
per 41 



Page. 

Preserving Fruits for Exhibi- 
tion . 108 

Prim, Insect of 35 

Pristiphora identidem 24 

Privet Web-Worm 35 

Promoting growth 12 

Propagating, Ways of 100 

Psylla pyri 33 

Puccinia Malvacearum 51 

Puccinia pruni-spinosae .... 54 

Putty, for Glazing 138 

Pyrethrum 12 

Pyrethrum cinerariaefolium . . 13 

Pyrethrum roseum 13 

Quassia 14 

Quince, Insects of 35 

Quince-Blight 56 

Rabbits, Injuries by ... . 62, 63 

Radish, Insects of 35 

Raspberry, Insects of 35 

Raspberry, Analyses of 170 

Raspberry Cane-Rust 56 

Raspberry Root-Borer 35 

Raspberry Saw-Fly 35 

Reaumur, thermometer .... 131 

Recipes and Rules 137 

Red-Legged Flea-Beetle .... 32 

Red-Rust of Raspberry 56 

Red-Spider 36 

Resin and fish-oil soap 14 

Resin and petroleum soap ... 14 

Resin soap 14 

Resin, soda and tallow soap . . 14 

Resin wax 68 

Rhizopus nigricans 58 

Rhodites radicum 36 

Rhubarb-CurculiO 36 

Ripe- Rot of Peach 51 

Rcestelia 45 

Root Gall-Fly 36 

Root-Knot 36 

Root-Louse 20 

Roots, Preserving of no 

Root- Rot of Pear 53 



220 The Horticulturist' s Rule- Book. 



Page. 



Rose-beetle 37 

Rose-bug 37 

Rose-chafer 37 

Rose, Leaf-blight 56 

Rose Leaf-hopper 37 

Rot and Blight of Peach .... 52 

Round-headed Borer 20 

Rules 141, 150 

Rules for Awarding C o m mit- 

tees 143 

Rules for Exhibitors 143 

Rules for Exhibition 145 

Rules of Horticulture 141 

Rules of Mass. Hort. Society . 144 
Rules of Mich. Hort. Society 

145, 150 

Rules of Nomenclature .... 141 

Rusting, To prevent 76 

Salt and lime wash 15 

Salt, for weeds 66 

Saperda Candida 20 

Saperda cretata ........ 20 

Saw-fly 27 

Scab 46 

Scale 31 

Scales, Thermometer 131 

Schizocerus ebenus 38 

Schizoneura lanigera ..... 20 

Sealing-cement 72 

Sea-Weed, Analysis of 179 

Seeds for an acre 78 

Selandria cerasi 23 

Selandria rubi 35 

Selandria vitis 27 

Septoria cerasina 54 

Septoria Dianthi 47 

Septoria Ribi 4S 

Sheep-feces 177 

Sheep-urine 177 

Shelled Corn, to find bushels of 139 
Shot-hole fungus, Plum .... 54 

Skawinski's powder 43 

Skawinski's sulphate of iron so- 
lution 43 



Page. 

Snails 37 

Soap and arsenites 15 

Soap and lime wash 15 

Soap and soda wash 15 

Soap and tobacco 15 

Soap, Fish-oil 15 

Society standard measures 117, 121 

Soda and aloes 15 

Soda and resin wash 16 

Soda and whale-oil soap wash . 16 

Soda hyposulphite 43 

Soda wash 16 

Soft-rot of sweet-potato .... 58 
Soil-rot of sweet-potato . . . . 5S 

Span-worm 25 

Sphaceloma ampelinum .... 49 

Sphaerella fragariae 57 

Sphaerotheca Castagnei .... 57 

Sphaerotheca pannosa 57 

Sphaerotheca Mors-uvae ... 48 

Spinage, Diseases of 57 

Squashes, Preserving . . . . no 
Stem-rot of sweet-potato ... 58 

Stictocephala festina 38 

Stocks for Fruits 103 

Storing 104 

Strachia histrionica 22 

Strawberry, Insects of ... . 37 
Strawberry, Analyses of . . . .170 
Strawberry Crown-borer . . .37 
Strawberry Leaf-blight .... 57 
Strawberry Leaf-roller .... 37 

Strawberry-mildew 57 

Strawberry Root-borer .... 38 
Strawberry Root-louse . . . . 3S 

Strawberry Saw-fly 38 

String, Waxed 69 

Sulfo-steatite 43 

Sulphate ofAmmoniaAnalysis of 181 

Sulphate of copper 43 

Sulphate of iron 43 

Sulphate of Magnesia, Analysis 

of . 181 

Sulphate of Potash, Analysis of 181 



Index. 



221 



Page. 

Sulphated sulphur 41 

Sulphatine .... % 43 

Sulphide of soda wash 16 

Sulphur 16 

Sulphur and lime 44 

Sulphur and snuff 16 

Sulphur and whale -oil soap 

wash 16 

Sulphur for rabbits 63 

Sulphuret of potassium .... 43 

Sumac, Insect of 38 

Sweet-potato, Insects of .... 38 
Sweet-potato, Black-rot .... 58 
Sweet-potatoes, preserving- . . no 

Swine-feces 177 

Swine-urine 178 

Symbols, Chemical 197 

Synchytrium vaccinii 48 

Tanks and Wells, Capacities of 126 

Taphrina deformans 52 

Taphrina pruni 55 

Tar Cement 72 

Tartar emetic for rats and mice 61 

Tent-Caterpillars 20 

Termites 39 

Tetranychus bimaculatis ... 30 
Tetranychus 6-maculatus ... 31 

Tetranychus telarius 36 

Tettigonia rosae 37 

Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis 21 

Thrip 28 

Title-pages, Dates on 140 

Tmetocera ocellana 19 

Tobacco 17 

Tomato, Insects of 38 

Tomato-blight 59 

Tomatoes, Preserving 112 

Tomato-ringer 38 

Tobacco-stems, Analyses of . . 180 

Tomato-worm 38 

Tree-cricket 36 

Tree seeds, Number, in pound 82 

Trichobaris trinotata 35 

Trypeta pomonella iS 



Page. 

Turnip, Insect of 39 

Turnip, Analysis of 175 

Tussock-moth 21 

Twig-gird ler 34 

Twig-pruners 21 

Tyloderma fragariae 37 

Typlocyba albopicta 25 

Uncinula spiralis 50 

Unmailable matter . . . . 152, 154 

Urocystis cepulae 51 

Uromyces betas 46 

Uromyces caryophjTiinus ... 47 

Ustilago Zeae-Mays 47 

Vegetables, Hardy 90 

Vegetables, Names in various 

languages 186 

Vegetable Kingdom, Statistics 

of 194 

Vegetables, Names in America 

and England 185 

Vegetables, Tender 90 

Venessa antiopa 39 

Verbena-rust 59 

Violet disease or rust 60 

Wash for mice 62 

Wash for sheep injury 62 

Wash to keep rabbits from trees 62 

Watermelon pod-rust 60 

Waxes 68, 69, 70 

Weeds -.. 65, 66 

Weigelia, Insects of 39 

Whale-oil soap 17 

White ants 39 

White hellebore 17 

Wholesale quantities 135 

Willow, Insects of 39 

Wind,, cooling glass 131 

Wire-worm 39 

Wounds, Waxes for 70 

Xyleborus pyri 33 

Yellows 52 

Yields, per acre 98, 99 

Zinc labels, Ink for 137 



Established OVER 50 YEARS. 

Largest and most complete stocU in the United States. 



fruit TREES 

and ORNAMENTAL 



Evergreens, ROSES, Shrubs, Grapes, Hardy 
Plants, Paeonles, Small Fruits. 



ELLWANGER & BARRY, 



Mount Hope Nurseries, Rochester, N. Y. 



New Illustrated and descriptive priced General Catalogue, con- 
taining information indispeiisable to planters — the most complete published, 
Free. 



ANNALS OF HORTICULTURE FOR 1891.— " Bright, new, clean and 
fresh " may be said of this series, by L.H. Bailey. Each year's ex- 
perience makes the succeeding volume a better one. The list of introduc- 
tions for each year is unique. It puts on record every novelty of fruit, 
flower, vegetable and tree of the year. All the tools of the year are de- 
scribed and illustrated, whether for use in orchard, garden or greenhouse. 
Every advance in American horticulture is chronicled. The volumes are 
a storehouse of information to every one who grows flowers, fruits, vege- 
tables or trees. It describes the new insects and fungous depredations. 
The obituaries of the year are included. The volume for 1891 contains a 
census of native cultivated plants, being a carefully annotated and dated 
list of all the plants in cultivation of American origin, including hundreds 
of entries. This is one of the boldest pieces of work yet attempted in 
American horticulture. The volume for 1S91 also contains a history and 
statistical record of the Farmers" institute movement in the United States 
and Canada. The work of the Experiment Stations is exhaustively discus- 
sed and indexed. 

Price, cloth, $1 ; paper, 60 cents. Annals for 1889 and 1890 at the same 
price. 





BOOKS. 



INSECTS AND INSECTICIDES.— A practical Manual concerning 
ious Insects and the Methods of Preventing their Injuries. By 
Clarence M. Weed, Professor of Entomology and Zoology, New Hamp- 
shire State College. 

I think that you have gotten together a very useful and valuable little 
book.— Dr. C. V. Riley, U. S. Entomologist. 

It is excellent. I must congratulate you on the skill you have displayed 
in putting in the most important insects, and the complete manner in which 
you have done the work.— James Fletcher, Dominion Entomologist. 

I am well pleased with it. There is certainly a demand for just such a 
work. — Dr. F. M Hexamer, Editor American Agriculturist. 

Price, cloth, $1.25. 

THE CAULIFLOWER.— By A. A. Crozier. Origin and History of this 
increasingly important and always delicious vegetable. 
The Cauliflower Industry. — In Europe. In the United States. Impor- 
tation of Cauliflowers. 

Management of the Crop.— Soil. Fertilizers. Planting. Cultivating. 
Harvesting. Keeping. Marketing. 

The Early Crop. — Caution against planting it largely. Special directions. 
Buttoning. 

Cauliflower Regions of the United States.— Upper Atlantic Coast. Lake 
Region. Prairie Region. Cauliflowers in the South. The Pacific Coast. 

Insect and Fungous Enemies. — Flee-Beetle. Cut-Worms. Cabbage- 
Maggot. Cabbage-Worm. Stem-Rot. Damping-Off. Black-Leg. 

Cauliflower-Seed. — Importance of careful selection. Where the Seed is 
grown. Influence of Climate American-grown Seed. 

Varieties. — Descriptive Catalogue. Order of Earliness. Variety tests. 
Best Varieties. 

Broccoli.— Difference between Broccoli and Cauliflower. Cultivation, 
use and varieties of Broccoli. 

Cooking Cauliflower. — Digestibility. Nutritive Value. Chemical Com- 
position. Receipts. 

Price, Cloth, $1. 

pRACTICAL FARM CHEMISTRY.— A Practical Handbook of Profitable 
Crop Feeding written for Practical Men. By T. Greiner. 
Part I. The Raw Materials of Plant-Food. 
Part II. The Available Sources of Supply. 

Part III. Principles of Economic Application, or Manuring for Money. 

This work, written in plainest language, is intended to assist the farmer 
in the selection, purchase and application of plant-foods. If you wish to 
learn ways how to save money in procuring manural substances, and how 



to make money by their proper use. read this book. If you want your boy 
to learn the principle of crop-feeding, and become a successful farmer, give 
him a copy of this book. The cost of the book will be returned a hundred- 
fold to every reader who peruses its pages with care and applies its teach- 
ings to practice. 
Price, cloth, $i. 

THE NEW POTATO CU LTU RE.— By Elbert S. Carman. This book 
gives the result of 15 years' experiment work on the Rural grounds. It 
treats particularly of : How to increase the Crop without Corresponding 
Cost of Production. Manures and Fertilizers : Kinds and Methods of 
Application. The Soil, and How to Put It in Right Condition. Depth 
of Planting. How much Seed to Plant. Methods of Culture. The Rural 
Trench System. Varieties, etc., etc. 

Nothing old or worn-out about this book. It treats of new and profitable 
methods ; in fact, of The NEW Potato-Culture. It is respectfully submitted 
that these experiments at the Rural grounds have, directly and indirectly, 
thrown more light upon the various problems involved in successful potato- 
culture than any other experiments which have been carried on in America 

Price, cloth, 75 cents; paper, 40 cents. 

S D SEEDS, BULBS, 

Horticultural Implements, Tools, etc. 

Landreth's Illustrated Descriptive 

CATALOGUE and RURAL REGISTER 

FREE to all applicants. 

D. LAND RET H & SONS, 

Seed and Implement Warehouse, 



Nos. 21 and 23 S. Sixth St., Philadelphia, Pa. 
FOUNDED 1784. 



